Deficiency issue

[wowslam]

Hello all, I needed some opinions on a yellowing issue i am having. i noticed about 2 weeks ago i was getting some yellowing on my flowering side and now has turned the whole node yellow and now is starting to effect my veg side both of witch do not share the same nutrient solution. Some variables in this is the fact i am a new grower and also the PPM were low on both side ~400 ppm on the vedge side and ~1000 on the flower side i have recently flushed and corrected the PPM issued by turning up the nutrients to ~1100 veg and ~1500 flower to try to resolve the issue.

SOOOoo, does any on think this is going to solve the issue and if so what was the deficiency and if not what should i do also do you think this is going to greatly effect my yeld at the end of flowering if usable at all thanks for all of youre help specs bellow


strain: White widow
hydroponic type: (v) drip (f) drip
Nutrients: Advanced Nutrients A and B
Lights: (f) 1000w (v) 400w

 

[redskunk420]

My guess would be zinc def.

 

[HydroManster]

Way to much nutrients, you have lock out I think. You need to flush the media and reset the system back down to an acceptable level. For veg around 500 to 600PPM should be max, and for flower around 800PPM to 1000PPM (.5 conversion x500) depending on plant health and size.

Are you using soil or what??

More details about your setup and what your using and how much and when will help. The more details the better.

Are you using Advanced Sensi grow or bloom?

What are your temps and humidity like at day and at night?

Are you using anything else in your mix? Do you drip 24/7? How big are the containers??

You need to start from ground zero so to speak so can begin to trouble shoot the issues. Correct obvious which is your nutrient levels for starters and what all you are using.

Have you calibrated your meters so you know they are giving accurate readings??

 

[narrowpath]

cal mag added to a good nute level feed would help tremindously!

 

[wowslam]

i am using a expanded clay as my medium and i am using sensi grow a and b on the vedge side and grow and bloom a and b on the flower side
my temp/ humid runs ~73(n)--85(d) deg and 42-47 % RH

on my flower side i am using just a 30gallon plastic container with the plant set in on top of the container , a bubbler in the bottom that is always on and a pump that flows constantly during light ( thats up from 3 times a day for ~30 min after the flush using the FloraKleen)

on my vedge side i am using a 24/7 drip under 24h of light and they are in 5 gallon baskets/buckets

i am also using a Liquid Mycorrhizae called Orca and yes i have calibrated all meters even after the flush to make sure my readings were accurate

and a big question is , how long will it take once i correct the issue will it take for some of the green to come back?


i have never really had a ppm issue before, 1 of my larger plants thats about a week or 2 from harvest is in the 2300 ppm level and showing no signs of this issue though my PH normally sits at about 7.1 before i adjust it

 

[wowslam]

also if not corrected on the ones that are flowering how much of a yield loss am i looking at?

 

[HydroManster]

It is possible the ph is off causing the nutrients to be unavailable. Most plants would burn at 2300PPM (or lockout would occur) of advanced Sensi line which makes me think they are not available due to ph levels.

Are you letting the media dry out to much possibly in between feedings?

Root damage or dead spots could also cause issues.

If you were using PPM's that high before with no issues then maybe just cut back about 25% or so and see what happens. It could be that your ph is indeed off either in the solution, the media or both. Once you fix ph to makes nutrients more readily available you might find you need a less concentrated solution.

You should start seeing improvement after just a few days, check new growth to see how it is doing. If your not to far along in flower, you can use a cal/mag foliar to speed up the process. Magic Green from House & Garden is a great foliar, but if you have some cal/mag and protek or some form of silica that would help out alot.

Nitrozyme at 5ml per liter makes a most excellent foliar as well.

Product called Sea Green can also be used as a foliar and in the res, but if you aerate watch for foaming which is normal. Sea Green will green them up super fast!

 

[wowslam]

well as far as letting the roots dry out i try to get 3 feedings 3 times a day but they have been on a 12 hr straight feeding sense the last flush all though the roots do hang down into the nutrient solution is this not going to let them dry out?

and TY for all the help !

 

[PrairiePoet]

well as far as letting the roots dry out i try to get 3 feedings 3 times a day but they have been on a 12 hr straight feeding sense the last flush all though the roots do hang down into the nutrient solution is this not going to let them dry out?

and TY for all the help !

If you have a good mass of roots in the reservoir, then you can turn the reservoir pump off (not the air).

What's your pH, and reservoir temps?

 

[SpaceGhost]

I am using advanced Nutrients and I run my ppms about a hundred over their recommendations

Veg 1140 vs 1040 AN
flower 1240 vs 1140 AN

Your not running any of the B-52? AN
What about big bud or bud candy?
Voodoo juice?

You should be adjusting ph when it hits 6.0 (@ 6 your still getting like 5 nutrients) bring it down to 5.4 and do this as needed. they are not getting any nuts at 7.0 ph you are sending your plants into lock up. when you bring your ph down you need to drop ppms or your going to burn. Did you read any of AN instructions? they say best ph 5.6 not 7.1 or even to let it fluctuate that high

 

[YardDog35]

If you have a good mass of roots in the reservoir, then you can turn the reservoir pump off (not the air).

What's your pH, and reservoir temps?

x2


Also...how close are you keeping the lights? What part of the plant is doing that? Upper, middle, lower?

That seems like a very high ppm as well.

 

[SpaceGhost]

He say's his ph is 7.1 That is why he can run the nuts up to 2300 the plants cant absorb anything that high. This is hydo

Hey bro you need to bring it down when it hits 6.0

 

[YardDog35]

He say's his ph is 7.1 That is why he can run the nuts up to 2300 the plants cant absorb anything that high. This is hydo

Hey bro you need to bring it down when it hits 6.0

2300 ppm is too high no matter what type of growing method you are using. My 2 cents but I'm sticking to it.

Doesn't matter what you're feeding if res temps are too high, let alone the high PH.

Prairie asked the most important questions, that have not been answered.

 

[wowslam]

Thanks for all the responses folks its much appreciated , so my lights are about 20" from the tops but i do know i need more light for the area i am trying to cover i am just having to make due. after messing around with the res i found the PH to be very high much more then normal but i havent figured out why though

 

[PrairiePoet]

Thanks for all the responses folks its much appreciated , so my lights are about 20" from the tops but i do know i need more light for the area i am trying to cover i am just having to make due. after messing around with the res i found the PH to be very high much more then normal but i havent figured out why though

Most likely because your reservoir temps are too high. Do you know what they are?

 

[SpaceGhost]

Thanks for all the responses folks its much appreciated , i found the PH to be very high much more then normal but i havent figured out why though

Reservoir temps? You can freeze 2 or 3 gal jugs of water and start a rotation. I drop a frozen jug of Ice in my flower rooms tank once a day.
Also could be a sick plant. Rot rot, rot aphids,
My tank swings a lot right after a reservoir change/flush

What kind of water are you using. City water fluctuates a lot the 1 2=3 days. not sure about R.O. or distilled water.
what are you using for ph down.
you must fix the huge ph swings.

 

[HydroManster]

I had a feeling it was the ph that was allowing you to be running that high of PPM's, which is why I mentioned it several post back.

If your ph was on target, 2300PPM would most likely not only burn them but kill them quickly.

I would suggest as before that you reset and make sure to flush your media good as it for sure has salt build up by now if you have been running those high PPM's.

When you refill, stick to around 600PPM for veg (max) and about 800PPM for flower. Have yet to see a strain that needed more than 1000PPM in flower! About week 6 of flower you should reach your max levels and start to taper back down. Tissue samples show that most strains will uptake almost all the nutrients it needs by week 6 of flower. Exceptions would be a strain that takes like 12 weeks to flower (sativa dominant).

Get your ph down to 5.5 and let it float between 5.2 and 6.3. The rule we use is that we do not adjust ph until it goes out of that range. Different nutrients are available at different ph levels which is why you want to let it float in that range.

You will save a TON of money and nutrients as well as you will be using half as much.

Cheers!

 

[SpaceGhost]

I had a feeling it was the ph that was allowing you to be running that high of PPM's, which is why I mentioned it several post back.

If your ph was on target, 2300PPM would most likely not only burn them but kill them quickly.

I would suggest as before that you reset and make sure to flush your media good as it for sure has salt build up by now if you have been running those high PPM's.

When you refill, stick to around 600PPM for veg (max) and about 800PPM for flower. Have yet to see a strain that needed more than 1000PPM in flower! About week 6 of flower you should reach your max levels and start to taper back down. Tissue samples show that most strains will uptake almost all the nutrients it needs by week 6 of flower. Exceptions would be a strain that takes like 12 weeks to flower (sativa dominant).

Get your ph down to 5.5 and let it float between 5.2 and 6.3. The rule we use is that we do not adjust ph until it goes out of that range. Different nutrients are available at different ph levels which is why you want to let it float in that range.

You will save a TON of money and nutrients as well as you will be using half as much.

Cheers!

Who said? Master Who? Masterbater credit taker I think

Anyway buddy do you have a reservoir tank separate from the one the plant sits in? it doesn't look like it. you need 1 make things a whole lot easier get the main reservoir away from under the lights. It will drop temps. make it easier to work with and you can drop ice in it to help. come check out my thread a cheap system would help you out a lot

SpaceGhost

 

[SSNUGS]

If you have a good mass of roots in the reservoir, then you can turn the reservoir pump off (not the air).

What's your pH, and reservoir temps?

you may also wanna check for thrips i see evidence of there markings on your lower leaves. Not that they are the sole issue but maybe one of a few problems your having.

 

[HydroManster]

Who said? Master Who? Masterbater credit taker I think

Anyway buddy do you have a reservoir tank separate from the one the plant sits in? it doesn't look like it. you need 1 make things a whole lot easier get the main reservoir away from under the lights. It will drop temps. make it easier to work with and you can drop ice in it to help. come check out my thread a cheap system would help you out a lot

SpaceGhost

Go back and read post number 3 and 7 numb nutz!! You did not chime in until after that shit for brains.

Guess that makes you a Master DUMBASS?? or Master JackAss!!! Pick one. ROFL!!

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