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Johnny5thesim
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Thanks for your help! I shall update the outcome once I know what’s up!
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Hiya buddy first thing you said there was nutes are fine pH is fine. Then said run off was really high. That means nutes aren't fine. Run off should be roughly the same as what goes in. If the ppm is too high then almost guaranteed the pH is off too. Usually go hand in hand cos one causes the other.
Is that Coco or soil you've got mate. Just looked back through and couldn't see if it was mentioned.
Right now I've never used that stuff but I checked the site and it basically says it has all the water retention/aireation qualities of the Coco that I do use.
The rising ppm thing in Coco comes from not feeding often enough and not watering to run off. Does that sound about right? Should be feeding to run off every day. 700-900ppm is about the right strength.
That's your issue mate I'm tellin ya. That stuffs got more than enough drainage to water every day. By not doing so your causing the nutes to build up in the pot and give you hot soil syndrome.
Soil is the only media that should be left to dry out. Doing it in any other media will cause exactly what's happening to you. Or do you think I just had a really lucky guess at your watering technique lol. Can add all the nutes you want it won't help. And for future reference they only need around 100ppm per week of veg. 900 is way to hot for a tiddler. Not an exact science but it's there about. I grow in a tiny, sensitive Res so can see exactly how much they're taking each day. If it's not needed then it's not only wasting nutes but almost garunteed to give you jip.
Yeah it's a bit of a mine field mate. If the promix users are saying not every day then they'll know better than me cos I'm a coco guy but I'd still definitely say do it more often. The thing to remember about watering is that there's no such thing as too much water. Otherwise Dwc wouldn't exist. The problems arise from a lack of oxygen which is caused by poor drainage and/or too dense a media. You don't have that issue so shouldn't get any side effects from it.That’s interesting. Cause I’ve been told over and over not to overwater. And that the wet/dry cycle is important to ensure root health. And my inclination was to stay low on nute strength. But people and Advanced nutrients are saying to go full strength.
My watering technique was based on repeated research from other promix users, and promix themselves.
So I’m either creating a calcium lockout from too much ppm on feedings. Or seeing a shortfall on calcium, because I’m not feeding enough.
It’s amazing to me, that growing has such a big “grey” area. In which I can get stuck in, and not know what to do.
Person A “go left or your plants dies”
Person B “go right or your plant dies”
Stay in the middle? Haha
All these things are also why I usually grow full hydro. Just follow the numbers on the sticks like a monkey and it's literally impossible for anything to go wrong
Yeah mate hydros a doddle. Just fill the Res and check it every couple days. Few drops of pH down once or twice a week. Res change every 10 days. Best not to run different strains from the same Res though. Can go wrong from time to time if you get vastly different feeders.I may end up going that route. What’s the time expenditure like? Less time spent working on them then soil based? I’m finding multiple plants with different needs for feeding, has me spending much more time than I thought I would!
Yeah mate hydros a doddle. Just fill the Res and check it every couple days. Few drops of pH down once or twice a week. Res change every 10 days. Best not to run different strains from the same Res though. Can go wrong from time to time if you get vastly different feeders.
I've been growing in pots all year due to various complications and I hate it. Hydros much easier. The yields are incomparable too. My record for an auto in Coco is 4oz on the button. Same strain in hydro got me 22 lol.
Always teaching.......thanks that just saved me a bunch of reading!The plant is only capable of sucking up certain nutrients out of the leaves, and we call these the mobile elements. Typically these will affect the lowest oldest leaves and then the effects will move up the trunk as the problem progresses. Semi mobile elements, like magnesium can show problems all over the plant, but generally will start with the lower growth. Non mobile elements like calcium can not be taken from older leaves. If it isnt available to the plant when it needs it, the symptoms show up in the new growth, where it was needed at the time and could not be found.
Somehow we have to put all of these clues together to figure out what the plant needs, or in this case when the symptoms do not follow the normal plant reactions to deficiencies, what is attacking the plant. Is it mold, fungus or pest. More pictures should help us determine what we are seeing.
Nah people think it's technical but it's just following numbers on sticks like a monkey mate. Soil growing is way more technical and you gotta know so much more to keep them happy.Sounds like something I’ll check into. I thought it would be way more difficult for some reason. Thanks for your input