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- #121
KJ's T5/CFL 1st Time Grow
- Thread starter KarlJay
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- #123
I found several others leaves on the same plant and they are at different spots on the plant so burning is not the issue, also most were older/larger leaves but I did find some smaller newer leaves as well.
I marked one with a twist tie and I'll take a pic to see how fast this is developing. The affected area is very dry and crumbles when touched/rubbed.
I'm wondering if this is related to my stopping the CaliMagic several weeks back? Maybe the new soil and other nutes covered the MG Def that CaliMagic was taking care of and now the soil is a few weeks old, no more CaliMagic and now the plant if suffering from MG Def?
Just a wild guess...
I marked one with a twist tie and I'll take a pic to see how fast this is developing. The affected area is very dry and crumbles when touched/rubbed.
I'm wondering if this is related to my stopping the CaliMagic several weeks back? Maybe the new soil and other nutes covered the MG Def that CaliMagic was taking care of and now the soil is a few weeks old, no more CaliMagic and now the plant if suffering from MG Def?
Just a wild guess...
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- #124
Just looked at some pics and it doesn't look much like CA or MG def
Somewhat looks like boron deficiency Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver - Pictorial
From all the pics, nute burn looks most likely, maybe I need to cut back on nutes, I did it two waterings in a row, after I think two skips in a row.
I'm really lost here, I think I need a PPM meter, at least then I could rule something out.
Somewhat looks like boron deficiency Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver - Pictorial
From all the pics, nute burn looks most likely, maybe I need to cut back on nutes, I did it two waterings in a row, after I think two skips in a row.
I'm really lost here, I think I need a PPM meter, at least then I could rule something out.
canabinerd
New Member
Well, it doesn't look like a deficiency to me, but if it were my plant and I was sure it wasn't a mechanical burn. I would flush it good and see what happens. If it get's worse, Hit it with the Cal-Mag.
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- #126
Thanks! Would a PPM meter show the 'overload nute' problem you're talking about? I'm probably overdue to get a PPM meter and I think it's hampering my ability to solve problems...
Here's all but one of the damaged leaves (I'm not counting the brown tip ones.
Here's a few more pics showing how far in the plant the damage is... I'm actually holding the leaf. There is no burn damage near it and I don't have any bulb that would reach in like that.
Here's one showing the tip and spots and the edge damaged, many leaves have this brown tip damage
You just burnt em karl, not a biggie, don't remove those burnt leaves! Let em take the burn, when it stops, and those plants start growin so fast you cant believe it, THEN you can clean up that burnt foliage, dead, burnt leaves won't hurt your plant, as long as it's not disease or fungus, and you don't want that debris on your soil where it can rot and mold. If you used a complete soil I highly doubt it has any deficiencies, the plant may be having a time taking nutrients from it, but the nutes are there. I TREAT with calmag, twice during the run, just to be sure of no lockout. My brain is not big enough to play the deficiency game, I use the best soil I can afford.......and a soil that I've studied a bit and I'm sure is good. Once you do those things, you can forget deficiencies and just grow weed, now, you're just thinkin about keeping the environment IN the soil healthy! Your plants ARE kickin ass karl....patience....organic processes take time. You might wanna look at the time these plants take to recover completely, from that observation you can time how often you want to feed em, cuz that's how long your nutes are working well, you just od'd em a little. NO BIGGIE!
you should be running FULL strength transition nutes-- plants look big enough to handle it... JMO in what I've noticed, sativa dominant strains beg for more Mg, N, P (epson salt, blood meal, bone meal, + for a kicker add some molasses).
I'll top dress & drench it in w/ the molasses... this is in between feeding a modified basic 3-part GH nute regimen-- how modified? I use the GH maybe once a month...YMMV. 1gal each of the Grow, Micro, Bloom has lasted me going on 9 mos.
I'll top dress & drench it in w/ the molasses... this is in between feeding a modified basic 3-part GH nute regimen-- how modified? I use the GH maybe once a month...YMMV. 1gal each of the Grow, Micro, Bloom has lasted me going on 9 mos.
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- #129
Thanks for the info about the problem leaves!
Update on the HPS light: Just got my FedEx package and as I feared it was ONLY the cool tube... As I feared AND emailed LowBaller about, it didn't change anything.
The ballast still just flips the breaker.
It took from Saturday till Thursday to get a replacement hood and that didn't change anything, except that it might have been the hood that caused the 1st problem, but without a working ballast, I can't tell.
I'm really leaning towards just bringing the hood/tube down to a local shop and if it works, buying a ballast from them.
One other note, the replacement cool tube is MUCH heavier, clearly they shipped out the cheap version with the 1st order, then the replacement is the quality one. The socket, metal, everything is MUCH better than the 1st tube.
It's frustrating when you tell someone that something won't work, they refuse to listen, now I have to wait longer or buy another system to get something working. I made the email as nice and clear as I could, but he wasn't willing to listen.
Update on the HPS light: Just got my FedEx package and as I feared it was ONLY the cool tube... As I feared AND emailed LowBaller about, it didn't change anything.
The ballast still just flips the breaker.
It took from Saturday till Thursday to get a replacement hood and that didn't change anything, except that it might have been the hood that caused the 1st problem, but without a working ballast, I can't tell.
I'm really leaning towards just bringing the hood/tube down to a local shop and if it works, buying a ballast from them.
One other note, the replacement cool tube is MUCH heavier, clearly they shipped out the cheap version with the 1st order, then the replacement is the quality one. The socket, metal, everything is MUCH better than the 1st tube.
It's frustrating when you tell someone that something won't work, they refuse to listen, now I have to wait longer or buy another system to get something working. I made the email as nice and clear as I could, but he wasn't willing to listen.
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- #130
Well just as soon as I log into my email to reply to LowBaller, I see an email from him. He has already sent a replacement ballast. It didn't make it in time for the 1st box, but it should be here Friday.
Only problem now is that I'm planning on buying a motorcycle Friday! I hope it comes early in the day! FedEx tracking tells you where it is and stuff, but it's still a bit of a toss up as to when the truck will be at your house.
Only problem now is that I'm planning on buying a motorcycle Friday! I hope it comes early in the day! FedEx tracking tells you where it is and stuff, but it's still a bit of a toss up as to when the truck will be at your house.
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- #131
Here's a compare of the two tubes. The 1st tube is very thin metal and it's rolled over the edges and I found no way to attach the reflectors. It's also labels as a 400W setup, has a smaller socket, the glass area is about 4" different and the mounting of the socket is cheap.
The new one is not thin rolled steel, it's a solid piece.
The reflectors have mounting tabs, so no screwing round with a cheap fix!
The new one is not thin rolled steel, it's a solid piece.
The reflectors have mounting tabs, so no screwing round with a cheap fix!
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- #132
Just got a phone call from Apollo and we discussed what happened. After the 1st phone call, I grabbed the multi-meter and tested the 2nd cool tube. There was NO connectivity between the 3 wires, White, Black, Green...
So it looks like it was the fault of the 1st cool tube. It has connectivity between the White and Green.
The replacement ballast should be here Friday... BUT Apollo asked that I WAIT for a 3rd cool tube to be shipped and that should be Monday or Tuesday.
I don't know if I should risk it and try it out anyways, or I could take it down to a local shop and have them test the new cool tube, or I could just wait a 4 more days.
So it looks like it was the fault of the 1st cool tube. It has connectivity between the White and Green.
The replacement ballast should be here Friday... BUT Apollo asked that I WAIT for a 3rd cool tube to be shipped and that should be Monday or Tuesday.
I don't know if I should risk it and try it out anyways, or I could take it down to a local shop and have them test the new cool tube, or I could just wait a 4 more days.
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- #133
Powtadaface
New Member
Looks like your plants have heat burn. All them cfls might of done that. I see your trying out grow lights.
Grow looks great!
Grow looks great!
That's correct kj...........those wires should be open, your meter should read infinity when set to ohms, measuring resistance. I would let these people work with you, sounds like you're gonna get upgraded equipment.
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- #136
Thanks! Welcome aboard!
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- #137
It's kinda funny, I got some of the worst customer service in my LIFE from my cell phone company [Net10 SUCKS] and the company I buy boots from [TimberLand SUCKS] And I tried to get compensation for the lack of a working product, poor customer service, etc... in the end, I was NOT happy and will find other companies to do business with.
However, LowBaller has worked hard to make this right, I haven't asked or hinted at any upgrade/discount. At this point I don't think I'll even hint at wanting an upgrade, but... I won't turn it down either
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- #138
Ok, so I found the problem:
The terminal on the white wire was touching the metal bracket and making full electrical contact.
The Black is the feed, the White is the return and the Green is the ground. The 2nd cooltube didn't have this problem.
It is interesting that the digital ballast can automatically sense 110 vs 220, the type of bulb [HPS vs MH] but can't sense or handle the crossing of a wire.
The terminal on the white wire was touching the metal bracket and making full electrical contact.
The Black is the feed, the White is the return and the Green is the ground. The 2nd cooltube didn't have this problem.
It is interesting that the digital ballast can automatically sense 110 vs 220, the type of bulb [HPS vs MH] but can't sense or handle the crossing of a wire.
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- #139
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- #140
I'm not 100% sure of the cause. I hope this is a simple burn, but I don't see how a cfl could have gotten in that far without burning any nearby leaves.
As far as the CFLs causing burns, yes, I just burned another plant! The one next to the damaged plant, grew into a CFL and I didn't check it. It burned a few leaves at the top of the plant.
I'm going to have to back the CFLs off a bit more. I like them close, the plants like them close, but I need to get better at keeping on top of things.
The new HPS light will be here very soon, so the CFLs are going to be reworked as side lights or center lights.
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