Need help with DIY LED

[420islife]

Hey guys I was hoping to try and build a led chip board on a 3.5x3.5 frame to go in a 4x4
Now I know how to wire up lights for a chicken brooder And snake enclosures with thermostats but these led have got me confused
First I purchased just a cheap chip and driver from eBay and that was just red and black so easy enough so I purchased some chips
220/110V 20/30/50W Full Spectrum LED COB Chip Grow Light Plant Growing Lamp Bulb

Tried hooking them up with my mini driver don't currently have the link but didn't work so I though must be to small and purchased
LED Driver Power Supply AC 110-220V to DC 5V 12V 24V 36V 48V LED Adapter Light

Hooked up power and tried to hook it up to the chip.. and it doesn't work.. (now I didn't solder it in) not sure if that is my issue or if there are other things that I would need so please help me guys need to get these power bills down and the heat before summer comes around

Chip 220v 50w
Driver 40a 200w

Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[TorturedSoul]

Those things in your first link look like the ones I've seen that the user just hooks up to the mains, lol, no external driver required.

I can't swear to it but, again, the one's I've seen you just connected your power cord to, plugged in, and waited for the pieces of sh!t to burn out, lol.

They've been mentioned here a few times in threads (although I cannot think of which specific threads or suggset any good search terms right now), and don't have a very good reputation. Since they're only $6.26AUS, grab an old lamp cord, put on a pair of rubber/insulating gloves so you won't be in danger of electrocuting yourself, plug the cord into the AC receptacle on the wall (or, probably better, a switchable power strip so you can control it), and touch the two leads to the solder spots on the gizmo. I figure it'll light up if it's not a dud from the factory.

Oh, and, assuming it lights up in the first place, do not leave it powered up for any length of time without a heatsink. Or even with one - the last thing I read about them here, last night or the night before, the person mentioned that he had one connected to a whopping big chunk of aluminum (IIRC), fired it up... and it burned out. I hope you only purchased the one.

 

[420islife]

Thanks for the quick reply TS I forgot to mention that I have tried that but unfortunately it didn't work either so mayb ur correct in saying it was a dud from the factory can you reccomend any cheaper chips that would work with the driver in the second link and yes only the one

 

[TorturedSoul]

Sadly, no. That's about as far from my area of "expertise" as anything on this forum is. There are some DIY type LED-related threads here. This one might have some information that will be useful (and there are some knowledable people posting in it):
6040-F2525 A1 COB - Legit or cheap knockoff?

Oh, I did read about one of those "quantum board" kits that people are raving about being available... somewhere... for $75US, which might be well under the average cost (I cannot swear to that, see my disclaimer at the beginning of this message). But it might not be from a well-known and (forum member) vetted source. Like they always say, "Ya pays yer money, ya takes yer chances."

I'm s-l-o-w-l-y learning more about LED technology. Maybe I will manage to get something new to play with and learn more before the year (or next year) is out. Maybe YOU will and I'll end up from reading about your experiences, who knows? I'm not really in a position to purchase at present.

 

[TurboBucket]

Just a quick glimpse looks like you have "110v chips" with a 12v driver. That's a no go. Are your"chips" AC or DC?
Do your homework, my setup runs at ≈215v dc 2.1A max. I'd hate to see someone get zapped bc they don't know what they're doing.

 

[PurpleGunRack]

You gotta get some proper hardware

1. Optoelectronics:
Newest generation COBs from Bridgelux, Citizen or Luminus.

Or even a PCB with Middle Power Diodes - Samsung LM561c (S06 bin or better) or the top dog of them all, the Samsung LM301b.

Drivers:
Get Mean Well! Their HLG series drivers are the bomb.
Inventronics and Pairu are also fine.

3. Do yourself a favor and build 2 or 4 smaller lamps rather than a single big lamp.

 

[GrizzWald]

You around? What are you growing?

 

[LEDXpert]

Those board look like they take line voltage 120 or 240 VAC and that mini-driver is putting out low voltage DC.

Thats a wildly dangerous circuit design to use unless you know what you're doing. Make sure that thing has a fuse and some sort of transient protection. Hopefully that is what the black and brown thing is next the the L pad. Then for this design to meet UL at 220V you'd need about a 15mm (guessing from memory) from the edge of that board until you see metal again either in the heatsink or the sidewalls of your enclosure. So you'd have to put down a thermal pad of some sort. Then you'd have to house that in a glass enclosure or UL5VA plastic for shock and fire hazard. Couple that with a high power density module 50W you really need to know what you're doing to cool it.

You're much better off, from a safety standpoint, getting a UL/ETL/TUV/CSA (not sure what Australia uses) but Nationally Recognized Testing Labratory (NRTL) AC to DC power supply and then using COB if you want this style of light. Not to mention that style of circuitry in that module isn't particularly efficient. I'd choose some sort of DIY kit thats reputable. Plenty of people on here can recommend those.