Sweetners

[Phytoplankton]

Strong oxidizing agents often react vigorously with other compounds, generating heat and possibly gaseous products, which can pressurize a closed container, and which may go on to participate in further reactions.

Wet wood chips/bark are not one of the "Other Compounds" Compost piles are not a "closed container" Not only that, the amounts used in composting are small and spread throughout the compost pile. This is basic soil science.
Please list all the explosions and fires at composting facilities (not to mention home users)! It's much more dangerous to store (in bulk) than it is to use.

 

[Mitchell Florn]

SORRY.....WE WILL AGREE TO DISAGREE!! YOU ARE 100% WRONG....IF SOMEONE FOLLOWS YOUR PRACTICES INCORRETLY THEIR WOODCHIP COMPOST PILE WILL BECOME VERY COMBUSTIBLE.... PERIOD.

 

[Phytoplankton]

SORRY.....WE WILL AGREE TO DISAGREE!! YOU ARE 100% WRONG....IF SOMEONE FOLLOWS YOUR PRACTICES INCORRETLY THEIR WOODCHIP COMPOST PILE WILL BECOME VERY COMBUSTIBLE.... PERIOD.

Standard soil science practice, I'll end with these:

"Compost piles develop best when built in layers (Figure 4). Layering is a good way to ensure that the materials are added in the proper proportion. Once several layers are formed, however, composting will be most rapid if the layers are mixed before making new layers. If available materials are limited, building a pile in this way may not be practical. When organic materials are accumulated rather slowly, stockpile them until enough are available to layer properly.

The pile normally may be started directly on the ground. However, to provide the best aeration to the base and improve drainage, dig a trench across the center of the base and cover it with stiff hardware cloth before you begin the layers. Branches or brush may be placed on the bottom as another means of improving lower aeration, but because they will decompose more slowly than finer materials, they may interfere with removal of the finished compost.

Firm each layer of organic material as it is added, but do not compact it so much that air cannot move freely through it.

Lightly water each layer as it is added. The entire pile should be as wet as a well-wrung sponge. Achieving this result is easier if you water each layer of dry material while building the pile rather than trying to wet the entire pile after it is built.

Every two to three layers, use a tool such as a pitchfork or spading fork to mix the layers thoroughly so the materials are evenly distributed. This practice speeds up decomposition.

During construction of the pile, remember the C:N ratios and that the pile needs about one pound of actual nitrogen for each 30 pounds of lightly moist organic matter for best decomposition.

Figure 4.
Proper layering in a compost bin.


First layer — organic materials
Begin the pile by placing a 6- to 8-inch layer of organic matter in the enclosed area. Shredded or chopped materials decompose faster, so if a shredder is available, run coarse organic matter through it. A machete and chopping block are useful for processing brushy yard trimmings. Materials that tend to mat, such as grass clippings, should either be placed in layers only 2 to 3 inches thick or mixed with coarser materials for thicker additions. After the organic layer is built, moisten but do not soak it.

Second layer — fertilizer or manure
Over the layer of plant material, add a layer of a material high in nitrogen or a sprinkling of a high-nitrogen garden fertilizer.

If animal manure is used, a layer 1 to 2 inches thick should be satisfactory.

If organic materials high in nitrogen, such as grass clippings, are used, layer them about 4 inches thick. Although adding grass clippings or other materials that have been treated with herbicides may cause concern, most pesticides break down quickly in a compost pile.

If garden fertilizers such as 12-12-12 are used as a nitrogen source, use about 1 cup per 25 square feet of the top surface of each layer.

When using fertilizer materials, about 0.8 ounce of actual nitrogen per bushel of organic matter such as leaves is needed. For example, one cubic yard (3 feet x 3 feet x 3 feet) of leaves contains about 23 bushels and thus would require about 18 ounces (1.1 pounds) of nitrogen or about 5.5 pounds of a fertilizer containing 20 percent N.

To avoid overwhelming the microorganisms, add fertilizer to the pile in several doses as the pile is turned. More uniform distribution on each layer can be obtained if a water-soluble fertilizer is mixed with water and sprinkled over the surface. Table 2 shows the amount of each material needed to apply 1 pound of actual nitrogen.

Do not add lime to the pile. Adding ground limestone to a compost pile was once thought necessary, but it is no longer considered to be so because the organisms function well with a pH of between 4.2 and 7.2. Compost naturally becomes less acid as it matures. Adding lime helps convert ammonium nitrogen to ammonia gas, which can create an odor problem as it escapes from the pile and can reduce the nutrient content of the finished compost. Adding lime may also cause the pH of the finished compost to be higher than optimal for plant growth.

Table 2.
Quantities of various nitrogen sources required to provide 1 pound of nitrogen

Nitrogen source	% Nitrogen	Ounces to apply for 1 pound N
Ammonium nitrate	33	48
Calcium nitrate	15	106
Urea	46	34
Dried blood	12	133
Fish meal	10	160

Third layer — soil. Next, add a layer of soil or sod about 1 inch thick
Soil contains microorganisms that help start the decomposition process. If an adequate source of soil is not available, a layer of finished compost may be used as a soil substitute. Compost activators may also be used to introduce organisms into the pile.

Additional layers
Continue to develop and alternate the layers — organic, fertilizer/manure, soil — until the pile is 3 to 5 feet high. Remember, after every two to three layers, mix the layers thoroughly to evenly distribute the materials.

and

QUESTION: Can I add fertilizer to my compost pile?
ANSWER: Yes, and doing so can be beneficial for your compost if you don’t add too much. Adding fertilizer and minerals to your compost pile allows the organisms in your compost to work their best and helps them produce healthy soil. Fertilizers are needed in compost because the organisms in compost that work to break down your kitchen scraps use up large amounts of nitrogen as well as some potash and phosphorus in the process of breaking down organic materials into compost.
Remember that fertilizer is generally very nitrogen rich, so it will throw your compost out of balance if you don’t have enough carbon rich materials in there.
One way to “cheat” at composting is to collect a large amount of dried leaves in the fall, and sprinkle a nitrogen rich fertilizer on them and water it in. The carbon and nitrogen combination works to break them down faster, if you don’t have enough other nitrogen rich materials available for regular composting.

​

​

 

[Mitchell Florn]

NOW THIS IS DATA PEOPLE CAN USE!!! AND I'LL STILL GIVE THE WARNING THAT FERTILIZERS CAN BE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND CAUSE COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS TO IGNITE IF HANDLED IMPROPERLY OR USED IN THE WRONG RATIOS.....

 

[Mitchell Florn]

NOW THIS IS DATA PEOPLE CAN USE!!! AND I'LL STILL GIVE THE WARNING THAT FERTILIZERS CAN BE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND CAUSE COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS TO IGNITE IF HANDLED IMPROPERLY OR USED IN THE WRONG RATIOS.....

IF YOU OR OTHERS ARE NOT FAMILIAR WITH THE M.S.D.S (MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET)...IT IS ESSENTIAL IN MY INDUSTRY ... BIOPHARMACEUTICALS....YOU CAN LOOK UP ANY SUBSTANCE.....EXAMPLE

What are the hazards of ammonium nitrate MSDS?

• Skin corrosion/irritation.
• Serious eye damage/eye irritation.
• Respiratory or skin sensitisation.
• Germ cell mutagenicity.
• Carcinogenicity.
• Reproductive toxicity.
• Specific target organ toxicity - single exposure.
• Specific target organ toxicity - repeated exposure.
• etc...etc

 

[BeccaBuds]

The thread has me thinking about products that are intended to inoculate the soil with beneficial microbes and fungi like Advanced Nutrients Piranha, Tarantula and Voodoo Juice, Dynomyco, etc.
I use these as directed with fresh, unused soil to "activate" it so to speak. I do this because I don't compost. I haven't done any side by side comparisons so I may be wasting my time.
I am curious to hear other opinions about sugars during the colonization phase.

 

[Mitchell Florn]

I WILL POST MORE ON THIS LATER ....YOU WILL BE INTERESTED IN THESE 3 ARTICLES

Frontiers | Exploiting Beneficial Pseudomonas spp. for Cannabis Production

<p>Among the oldest domesticated crops, cannabis plants (<italic>Cannabis sativa</italic> L., marijuana and hemp) have been used to produce food, fiber, and ...

www.frontiersin.org

Potential impacts of soil microbiota manipulation on secondary metabolites production in cannabis - Journal of Cannabis Research

Background Cannabis growing practices and particularly indoor cultivation conditions have a great influence on the production of cannabinoids. Plant-associated microbes may affect nutrient acquisition by the plant. However, beneficial microbes influencing cannabinoid biosynthesis remain largely...

link.springer.com

Microbial consortium inoculant and rock mineral fertiliser differentially improved yield and nutrient uptake of industrial hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) varieties

Industrial hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) production is attracting widespread attention in agriculture but is facing cultivation challenges in nutrient-poo…

www.sciencedirect.com

 

[Mitchell Florn]

The thread has me thinking about products that are intended to inoculate the soil with beneficial microbes and fungi like Advanced Nutrients Piranha, Tarantula and Voodoo Juice, Dynomyco, etc.
I use these as directed with fresh, unused soil to "activate" it so to speak. I do this because I don't compost. I haven't done any side by side comparisons so I may be wasting my time.
I am curious to hear other opinions about sugars during the colonization phase.

BY THE WAY....THE ABOVE PRODUCTS YOU MENTIONED ARE ALL EXCELLENT!! THIS LINK BELOW ABOUT MOLASSES IS DONE WITH BEETS.....YOU AND ORHERS WILL FIND THE DATA INTERESTING AND POSITIVE....I'VE PERSONALLY HAVE USED MOLASSES SINCE THE MID1970'S WHEN I STARTED GROWING CANNABIS.....I RECOMMENDED IT THEN (WAY BEFORE IT BECAME IN-VOGUE) ....AND WILL CONTINUE TO DO SO....


https://www.biotechstudies.org/uploads/pdf_71.pdf

 

[BeccaBuds]

I use AN Bud Candy instead of Molasses. I justify the price by telling myself it's a more balanced blend of sugars & microbe vitamins...

 

[Phytoplankton]

The thread has me thinking about products that are intended to inoculate the soil with beneficial microbes and fungi like Advanced Nutrients Piranha, Tarantula and Voodoo Juice, Dynomyco, etc.
I use these as directed with fresh, unused soil to "activate" it so to speak. I do this because I don't compost. I haven't done any side by side comparisons so I may be wasting my time.
I am curious to hear other opinions about sugars during the colonization phase.

There should be active microbes in the new mix, if it is damp. When it dries the microbes go dormant, many die, the fungi will also go dormant until conditions improve (water), as a starter I don’t think inoculation with microbes/fungi is wasting money. Added sugars will help the microbes get a jump start, but unless you continue to water with molasses or a sugar source the number of microbes will drop back down to just what the soil alone can provide. However, when the microbes are at high levels your plants will be able draw a ton of nutes. This is most applicable to organic soil grows.

 

[BeccaBuds]

One would expect new potting mix to be well composted ,aged and biologically active but inert, but in fact, sometimes it is less than ideal by the time it gets to your door.
I've gotten bags of soil infested with fungus gnats, mold, aspergillus & weird fungi and who-knows-what-else (a few weeds, too). I think I can "swamp" out bad bugs with massive inoculations of good bugs and turn it around but it is still risky- bad bugs most likely still exist just waiting for the right conditions to proliferate and ruin your crop.
A bag of FFOF I got had Leucocoprinus Birnbaumii mycelium in it as well as some black mold. For the record, it smelled bad and I should have paid attention to my nose and tossed it.

 

[Phytoplankton]

One would expect new potting mix to be well composted ,aged and biologically active but inert, but in fact, sometimes it is less than ideal by the time it gets to your door.
I've gotten bags of soil infested with fungus gnats, mold, aspergillus & weird fungi and who-knows-what-else (a few weeds, too). I think I can "swamp" out bad bugs with massive inoculations of good bugs and turn it around but it is still risky- bad bugs most likely still exist just waiting for the right conditions to proliferate and ruin your crop.
A bag of FFOF I got had Leucocoprinus Birnbaumii mycelium in it as well as some black mold. For the record, it smelled bad and I should have paid attention to my nose and tossed it.

Most bag soils are fine when the leave the “factory”. The main problem is how the bags are treated after that. How they are stored and for how long are important, if stored outdoors (uncovered) they can get waterlogged which plays heck with the microbes/fungi, often promoting undesirable microbes. Also outdoor storage can also provide a way for bugs to get established, all these issues get worse the longer the bag soil is stored.

 

[Mitchell Florn]

I use AN Bud Candy instead of Molasses. I justify the price by telling myself it's a more balanced blend of sugars & microbe vitamins...

LOL!!! DUDE THAT'S CLASSIC....I THINK EVERYONE DOES THAT....TELLS THEMSELVES IT OKAY....BUD CANDY IS EXCELLENT PRODUCT....USE IT AS WELL

 

[Mitchell Florn]

There should be active microbes in the new mix, if it is damp. When it dries the microbes go dormant, many die, the fungi will also go dormant until conditions improve (water), as a starter I don’t think inoculation with microbes/fungi is wasting money. Added sugars will help the microbes get a jump start, but unless you continue to water with molasses or a sugar source the number of microbes will drop back down to just what the soil alone can provide. However, when the microbes are at high levels your plants will be able draw a ton of nutes. This is most applicable to organic soil grows.

100% CORRECT....THE MICROBES FORM WHAT ARE CALLED ENDOSPORES...ONE OF MANY REASONS WHY I BECAME A MICROBIOLOGIST....FASCINATING STUFF. AGAIN, YOU ARE CORRECT....NOT A WASTE OF $$$.....BETTER SOIL....BETTER PLANTS...SIMPLE

 

[Mitchell Florn]

One would expect new potting mix to be well composted ,aged and biologically active but inert, but in fact, sometimes it is less than ideal by the time it gets to your door.
I've gotten bags of soil infested with fungus gnats, mold, aspergillus & weird fungi and who-knows-what-else (a few weeds, too). I think I can "swamp" out bad bugs with massive inoculations of good bugs and turn it around but it is still risky- bad bugs most likely still exist just waiting for the right conditions to proliferate and ruin your crop.
A bag of FFOF I got had Leucocoprinus Birnbaumii mycelium in it as well as some black mold. For the record, it smelled bad and I should have paid attention to my nose and tossed it.

SO....NOT GOOD....ONE OF THE REASONS I MIX / MAKE MY OWN SOILS. AS FAR AS MOLDS ARE CONCENED....THEY ARE DEADLY!! THE HEALTH RISKS TO HUMANS AND PETS IS EXTREMELY WELL DOCUMENTED...ASPIRGILLOSIS.....THIS IS ONE OF MANY THAT PEOPLE SHOULD READ....IN MY EARLY POSTS I HAD INFORMATION REGARDING MOLDS AND THE ASSOCIATED HEALTH RISKS....LOOK UP ASPIRGILLOSIS IN THE SEARCH BUTTON OR MY NAME

Aspergillus: The Most Dangerous Cannabis Pathogen

Aspergillus is a saprophytic fungus that helps remove environmental carbon and nitrogen from the earth’s atmosphere.

medicinalgenomics.com

 

[BeccaBuds]

Certain radiological emitters can be used for purification of soils and final products of said soils. Microbe populations in a medium can be engineered to conditions optimal for a given crop. Some have been working on this for well over 20 years.

 

[BeccaBuds]

One of the reasons I use AN products.

 

[SmokingWings]

I'LL STILL GIVE THE WARNING THAT FERTILIZERS CAN BE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND CAUSE COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS TO IGNITE IF HANDLED IMPROPERLY OR USED IN THE WRONG RATIOS..

I really am having a hard time accepting that as a blanket statement. We already have people who are afraid of compost piles and think that they will catch fire and burn down the neighborhood.

A compost pile, with or without some added source of fertilizer, will not get hot enough to catch fire. A properly balanced pile can get to 140 to 150 F in a couple of days and hold there for awhile. It is the life cycle of the micro-organisms that allow this to happen. A pile built with a fair amount of carbon and a lot of high nitrogen material can get to 180 if I am remembering right from some research several years ago.

But even 180F is a long way from the 450 to 500 F needed to ignite paper let alone small pieces of wood. The pile cannot build up heat on it own and get higher than 210F give or take a few degrees. The water in organic material in a pile cannot get hotter than the boiling point which means the pile of organic material is limited to that.

The heat in the pile is generated by the micro-organisms and if the pile starts to dry out then the organisms slow down their decomposition so the temperature drops.

The only way that I can see to get a pyrotechnic display for the 4th of July from a compost pile of wood chips and excess nitrogen is to have a nearby source of ignition to cause the combustion of already dry organic material.

In the photo below the end-loader is dumping compost from a commercial operation into the back of my truck. That is steam coming off from the compost and not smoke because someone thinks the compost is smoldering which is what a lot of the average non-gardeners think. The pile my compost was coming from had been delivered to the landscape yard the day before. The temperature at that hour that day was in the low to mid 60s which is cool enough to show steam. I was able to easily handle the compost with my bare hands and could feel that it was warm but no where near being even close to 150 F.

 

[Mitchell Florn]

DO AS YOU WISH.....THE STATEMENTS I MADE ARE BASED ON MY EDUCATIONAL BACKGROUND AS WELL AS MY PROFESSIONAL BACKGROUND.....AMMONIUM NITRATE CAN AND WILL CAUSE MATERIALS TO COMBUST IF MISHANDLED.....I'M NOT SAYING THAT IT DOESN'T WORK VERY EFFICIENTLY...ETC..I'M SAYING BE CAREFUL!! BEING PRUDENT IS A GOOD THING. SAFETY FIRST.....

 

[Danishoes21]

Been an organic grower since I started, worked with compost since I can remember; NEVER had an instance where I would think the pile will turn on fire. Im sorry I don’t t agree with this. The only time I actually saw heat coming out was a pile of moldy hay. We immediately took then out of the barn and spaced them out.

One way to avoid risk, spray water and use a tarp to cover; sift every 2-4 weeks.