- Thread starter
- #21
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
And i have no idea on the phone man, if it doesn't have a real keyboard i cant use it....
And i have no idea on the phone man, if it doesn't have a real keyboard i cant use it....
The Green Help-Me Hotline
- Thread starter N.W.Green
- Start date
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
Great thread man. I've been reading here and elsewhere on the net gathering info for a small cabinet grow I will be starting in the coming months. Will be 2ft wide, 1ft deep, 3 ft tall. Lighting will be 4x27w odor-eliminating cfls @2700k + 1x 15w tube @6500k (123w total), and the entire interior will be mylar-covered. The lights will be spread out for maximum canopy penetration. For soil, I'm thinking a mix of FF ocean forest and happy frog potting soils, plus perlite and vermiculite. I'm on the fence about any lime. For ferts, Happy Frog tomato/vegetable (7-4-5) looks good to me for veg, and happy frog bulb food (3-8-8) sounds great for flowering. They both have beneficial microbes. I'm also open to suggestions about autoflower strains. I know autos have a very short veg phase which is why I'm so heavy on the 2700k lights. Mixing a small amount ot the 7-4-5 in before planting and then working in a bit more of the 3-8-8 after a week or so is my plan for feeding. I will have plenty on hand to add if needed.
Any thoughts on this setup? Comment on anything mentioned above, or anything else. Other questions are light cycle: anywhere from 18/6 to 24/0? I've heard good things about 24/0 but it seems so unnatural and will cost me more in electricity, so I only want to do it for a noticeable quant a/o qual increase. Also, how deep should my soil bed be? It will be 24"x8" at the base, but how deep (keep in mind as it gets taller, the plants have less room to grow upwards)? The box itself is 36" tall, minus 6" at the top for lights, minus however deep my soil is. I was thinking 2-3 plants in that space. This will be my second auto grow, but the first was outdoors and totally ruined by deer who nabbed my lowryders at 2 weeks of growth. They were looking good.
BTW I will be keeping a detailed log WITH PICS once this happens. If I left anything out, let me know. Thanks for any advice.
Great thread man. I've been reading here and elsewhere on the net gathering info for a small cabinet grow I will be starting in the coming months. Will be 2ft wide, 1ft deep, 3 ft tall. Lighting will be 4x27w odor-eliminating cfls @2700k + 1x 15w tube @6500k (123w total), and the entire interior will be mylar-covered. The lights will be spread out for maximum canopy penetration. For soil, I'm thinking a mix of FF ocean forest and happy frog potting soils, plus perlite and vermiculite. I'm on the fence about any lime. For ferts, Happy Frog tomato/vegetable (7-4-5) looks good to me for veg, and happy frog bulb food (3-8-8) sounds great for flowering. They both have beneficial microbes. I'm also open to suggestions about autoflower strains. I know autos have a very short veg phase which is why I'm so heavy on the 2700k lights. Mixing a small amount ot the 7-4-5 in before planting and then working in a bit more of the 3-8-8 after a week or so is my plan for feeding. I will have plenty on hand to add if needed.
Any thoughts on this setup? Comment on anything mentioned above, or anything else. Other questions are light cycle: anywhere from 18/6 to 24/0? I've heard good things about 24/0 but it seems so unnatural and will cost me more in electricity, so I only want to do it for a noticeable quant a/o qual increase. Also, how deep should my soil bed be? It will be 24"x8" at the base, but how deep (keep in mind as it gets taller, the plants have less room to grow upwards)? The box itself is 36" tall, minus 6" at the top for lights, minus however deep my soil is. I was thinking 2-3 plants in that space. This will be my second auto grow, but the first was outdoors and totally ruined by deer who nabbed my lowryders at 2 weeks of growth. They were looking good.
BTW I will be keeping a detailed log WITH PICS once this happens. If I left anything out, let me know. Thanks for any advice.
- Thread starter
- #23
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
Hey buddy, thanks for stopping by and when it comes to your set up it sounds GREAT i love small setups
, this may be a stretch for you but if it it possible you might wanna keep a mother plant, you can cut clones off of her and when they root you can throw them right into flower, and do a few small plants and i would put them in a 5x5x5 square container or around that size but be sure they are square they fit together really nicely. by doing this you can even stagger your harvest time by doing your cuttings a few days to maybe even a week apart and you can have a perpetual.
I have no problems at all with Auto's but it is also some where that i dont have experience actually growing them, but one advantage that you will get from you light being on 24/0 is less stretch will happen, when you give a night period node spacing can increase slightly.
Also if you do this you shouldn't need to premix your ocean forest with any perlite or nutes and you can just use your dry nutes to make tea's and just add water, ocean forest has a nute supply of about 20-60 days depending on the feeding habbits of a plants
hope this helps i have a pretty good head ake right now so i might have missed something if i forgot just reiterate it to me again
thanks for stopping by again man
Hey buddy, thanks for stopping by and when it comes to your set up it sounds GREAT i love small setups
, this may be a stretch for you but if it it possible you might wanna keep a mother plant, you can cut clones off of her and when they root you can throw them right into flower, and do a few small plants and i would put them in a 5x5x5 square container or around that size but be sure they are square they fit together really nicely. by doing this you can even stagger your harvest time by doing your cuttings a few days to maybe even a week apart and you can have a perpetual.I have no problems at all with Auto's but it is also some where that i dont have experience actually growing them, but one advantage that you will get from you light being on 24/0 is less stretch will happen, when you give a night period node spacing can increase slightly.
Also if you do this you shouldn't need to premix your ocean forest with any perlite or nutes and you can just use your dry nutes to make tea's and just add water, ocean forest has a nute supply of about 20-60 days depending on the feeding habbits of a plants
hope this helps i have a pretty good head ake right now so i might have missed something if i forgot just reiterate it to me again
thanks for stopping by again man
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
Thanks for the ideas man. I've heard of people trying to clone autos but it hasn't worked out well, only 5-10g off the clones IF they take, which they generally don't. You can't keep a mother with autos because you can't keep them in veg; they flower based on time rather than light. I will do a seed run or two so I don't have to keep getting things shipped to me.
The selection of autoflowers has skyrocketed recently so I will have plenty to try out and keep me busy. Worldwide alone has 7 pages of auto varieties. AK-48, Lowryder 2, Diesel Ryder, and Purple Ryder are on my short list. I also have a single fem BCN Diesel Auto seed from a friend that I'll grow. I think I will go with 24/0 lighting since keeping them short is important. That way I can plug in my fan, lights, etc and just let it run.
I'm thinking of getting an air purifier to prevent mold and such, the GG1000 from Guardian. It is the size of a large nightlight and uses UV-C light to kill airborne spores. It cleans 456 ft3/hour, so I'll put it in the room next to the cabinet. Seeing as my fan moves 20-30cfm and the cabinet is less than 10 ft3, the air inside the cabinet would be moving too fast to get treated. Since I will be using my cabinet for drying as well, I see it as a good investment to keep my harvest squeaky clean, seeing as up to 15% of samples tested from legitimate dispensaries were positive for aspergillus mold. It will also help with smell, along with the lights and a filter over my fan.
Do you have any experience in sealing up light leaks in case my cabinet is less than perfect? My current idea is just to somehow position the mylar to cover any leaks.
Thanks for the ideas man. I've heard of people trying to clone autos but it hasn't worked out well, only 5-10g off the clones IF they take, which they generally don't. You can't keep a mother with autos because you can't keep them in veg; they flower based on time rather than light. I will do a seed run or two so I don't have to keep getting things shipped to me.
The selection of autoflowers has skyrocketed recently so I will have plenty to try out and keep me busy. Worldwide alone has 7 pages of auto varieties. AK-48, Lowryder 2, Diesel Ryder, and Purple Ryder are on my short list. I also have a single fem BCN Diesel Auto seed from a friend that I'll grow. I think I will go with 24/0 lighting since keeping them short is important. That way I can plug in my fan, lights, etc and just let it run.
I'm thinking of getting an air purifier to prevent mold and such, the GG1000 from Guardian. It is the size of a large nightlight and uses UV-C light to kill airborne spores. It cleans 456 ft3/hour, so I'll put it in the room next to the cabinet. Seeing as my fan moves 20-30cfm and the cabinet is less than 10 ft3, the air inside the cabinet would be moving too fast to get treated. Since I will be using my cabinet for drying as well, I see it as a good investment to keep my harvest squeaky clean, seeing as up to 15% of samples tested from legitimate dispensaries were positive for aspergillus mold. It will also help with smell, along with the lights and a filter over my fan.
Do you have any experience in sealing up light leaks in case my cabinet is less than perfect? My current idea is just to somehow position the mylar to cover any leaks.
- Thread starter
- #25
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
Sounds like a good plan, and sorry i should he been more clear, i ment keep a mother of a normal strain and just 12/12 the clones off the mother that can stay under 18/6.
And the best way to seal light leaks that i have found is Panda film / Mylar and go to home depot and get Tyvec tape, the stuff sticks to EVERYTHING really well lol.
Sounds like a good plan, and sorry i should he been more clear, i ment keep a mother of a normal strain and just 12/12 the clones off the mother that can stay under 18/6.
And the best way to seal light leaks that i have found is Panda film / Mylar and go to home depot and get Tyvec tape, the stuff sticks to EVERYTHING really well lol.
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
So with the mother/clones thing, what you're describing is a way to grow non-autoflowers in such a small cabinet? By 12-12in the clones, they go straight to flower and never get tall. But how do you keep the mother short? Or do I have this whole thing wrong? Whatever, I'm so high right now.
So with the mother/clones thing, what you're describing is a way to grow non-autoflowers in such a small cabinet? By 12-12in the clones, they go straight to flower and never get tall. But how do you keep the mother short? Or do I have this whole thing wrong? Whatever, I'm so high right now.
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
Hey Green
I am a noob (3rd crop)
running a low pressure aeroponics system.
2 400 cmh in a 3x6 scrog screen for flower and HO5 flouro's for veg
running co2 set at 1200ppm runs 1150 up to 1500-1600
have AC and room runs at 80-83 days 70nights
rez temps maintained at 65-68
using connoiseur A&B and sensi A&B both by Advanced nutes
I am suffering a calmag deficiency on my chocolope (sativa dominate) I am about 5wks into flower and the deficiency developed and is getting worse. I had heard that sativas tend to like less nutes and when I saw some burning I dropped the ppms from 600ppm to about 400ppm and thats when I saw the deficiency. I supplimented with calmag (genhydro) and have not seen any inprovement. I also noticed some deficiency on my clones 4wks into veg.
I am confused bc connoiseur Adv. nutes run 3.2% chelated calcium and 0.81% mag with .5%chelated and my other indica dominate crop suffers none of the same problems
so, do sativas like lower nutes and if so why would running calmag not help this problem? I wonder if I should just push the nutes. Presently I am flushing the rez and trying to decide how to best remedy this problem.
pictures follow:
you can see the deficiency clearly here
as you can see flowering
same condition in my veg closet
group pic
pic of my swiss cheese close to havest, forgive the nute burn
Hey Green
I am a noob (3rd crop)
running a low pressure aeroponics system.
2 400 cmh in a 3x6 scrog screen for flower and HO5 flouro's for veg
running co2 set at 1200ppm runs 1150 up to 1500-1600
have AC and room runs at 80-83 days 70nights
rez temps maintained at 65-68
using connoiseur A&B and sensi A&B both by Advanced nutes
I am suffering a calmag deficiency on my chocolope (sativa dominate) I am about 5wks into flower and the deficiency developed and is getting worse. I had heard that sativas tend to like less nutes and when I saw some burning I dropped the ppms from 600ppm to about 400ppm and thats when I saw the deficiency. I supplimented with calmag (genhydro) and have not seen any inprovement. I also noticed some deficiency on my clones 4wks into veg.
I am confused bc connoiseur Adv. nutes run 3.2% chelated calcium and 0.81% mag with .5%chelated and my other indica dominate crop suffers none of the same problems
so, do sativas like lower nutes and if so why would running calmag not help this problem? I wonder if I should just push the nutes. Presently I am flushing the rez and trying to decide how to best remedy this problem.
pictures follow:
you can see the deficiency clearly here
as you can see flowering
same condition in my veg closet
group pic
pic of my swiss cheese close to havest, forgive the nute burn
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
Oh yea, one other thing, I am running RO and my ph is normally stable at about 5.6-5.8. I start my ppms at about 600 and when they drop to 400-450ppm I add back nutes to bring this back up to 600 and this usually drops ph to mention levels, if not a few mls of ph down will get it there.
However, at some point of this deficiency the ppms went wacko and would not stay down, the ph would increase as high 7.0 in 8 or so hrs.
also I check the roots, they look healthy, brown for the calmag dose but otherwise seem good
so, as I said I am flushing hoping for a solution
Oh yea, one other thing, I am running RO and my ph is normally stable at about 5.6-5.8. I start my ppms at about 600 and when they drop to 400-450ppm I add back nutes to bring this back up to 600 and this usually drops ph to mention levels, if not a few mls of ph down will get it there.
However, at some point of this deficiency the ppms went wacko and would not stay down, the ph would increase as high 7.0 in 8 or so hrs.
also I check the roots, they look healthy, brown for the calmag dose but otherwise seem good
so, as I said I am flushing hoping for a solution
Hydroponic1
New Member
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
NW i hope you have seen this before Due to storms coming through we lost power for about 5 hours during the dark cycle (day time) I run lights at night to help with heat. 2 of 4 plants fell over for lack of better terms. They are in a NFT system everything was off 4 approximatly 5 hours Light cycle was reset back to normal and syste3m back online for 3 days with no interuptions the 2 plants have not recovered the other 2 are healthy with no problems I have had to make shift a support to hold both up they are almost 7 weeks into flower they were started from a clone wich was originally a bag seed. This is my second grow temp hit over 90 degree F when the ventilation went down temps are back to normal also most leaves are wilting and the plant is drooping water consumption is next to none. i have been flushing with pure water every 12 hours now for 2 days no improvement. My guess is heat stress any advce would be appreciated.
NW i hope you have seen this before Due to storms coming through we lost power for about 5 hours during the dark cycle (day time) I run lights at night to help with heat. 2 of 4 plants fell over for lack of better terms. They are in a NFT system everything was off 4 approximatly 5 hours Light cycle was reset back to normal and syste3m back online for 3 days with no interuptions the 2 plants have not recovered the other 2 are healthy with no problems I have had to make shift a support to hold both up they are almost 7 weeks into flower they were started from a clone wich was originally a bag seed. This is my second grow temp hit over 90 degree F when the ventilation went down temps are back to normal also most leaves are wilting and the plant is drooping water consumption is next to none. i have been flushing with pure water every 12 hours now for 2 days no improvement. My guess is heat stress any advce would be appreciated.
green cypress
New Member
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
hi bud,this is my plan..will it work? Firstly i plan on a box around 2ft sq with a 125w cfl growlite dual spectrum lite,i was unsure of the fan strength needed at 1st so i grabbed loads,cooker hood,extraction(old)& p.c fans of sizes 2in,3,4,&5in,12volt,the one ive settled on is the 4.I want to aim for one plant,lowrider type & autoflowering,i know there isnt worries with lite schedules with the autos,and with a dual spect bulb theres no hassle with giving one 4 veg then switching,the plant needs it all afterall ive read,so can you suggest any other smallplants i.e 12in? Ive heard of mystic blue & northern lites,any good,& also heard the m.blue is low odour,is this right? My plans after putting the exh fan up the top with a hole half the size of the fan for intake(no fan,just filter 4 dust),the exh fan would exit through venting,turning downward into a homemade sploof activated carbon,made with mesh,filter & tape,im concerned if this fan will be ok,or ive heard of a gel that u leave half open named ozone or something,is this ok? I intend to use soil with a good tomato feed to start so to build up knowledge with plant charactaristics etc,after this is there a general purpose feed for plants,which can be added to with a same brand bud builder out there,can u name something? Is it ok to trim or top autos for xtra buds,how early is this ok,& can u suggest a forum to learn,ive thought about hydro & have bits for it,but i like the idea knowing what goes in to the plant,thus poss avoiding root burn etc,but what is a safe dose or measurement of feed on a bottle,is it quarter or half? Is a wick system ness for one plant or watering/feed better done manually,whats best,i will be near most daily,but can u describe wick making & also is perlite ok on its own 4 drainage & storing or put with wick? What do u think? Is there any suggestions u can help with,i have a place in mind,i have cut the wood,got the bulb(but didnt order lead 4 lite as bigger than standard,looked big as pic blown up so thought normalsize,wen it came,oh no,big,so had to wait 4 spare £)& also ive ordered mylar,6ft,then i will order the activated carbon sheets or granules,can u tell me are they very lite in weight,liter than gravel,i read certain kitty litters work,have you heard this? The 5in fan i have is bearring i think,its very quiet,its clear & has a blue lite too,it seems slower than the 4in,wot'd reckon,need help & guidence as dreamt of growing my own,but i dont want to cock up the curing stage etc,ive taken notes & read lots on many forums,which helps,especially here,is there any suggestions you can help with,i would rather have chat via e-mail or privately,but up to u,what do you think of my plans,i do intend to use bottled water & room temp watering,but i wonder if scrog growing is worth it,im not worried so much with autos,but small sleepy smokes i like,rather than buzzy ones,ive heard of ganja dwarf & lowrider 2,but do'y know of anymore like these u can suggest,now i dont check this forum everyday,but im glad 4 any help,thanx,cypress green.
[love da site,big up,grow ya own me tinx,put dem dealer outta biznizz! 
]
hi bud,this is my plan..will it work? Firstly i plan on a box around 2ft sq with a 125w cfl growlite dual spectrum lite,i was unsure of the fan strength needed at 1st so i grabbed loads,cooker hood,extraction(old)& p.c fans of sizes 2in,3,4,&5in,12volt,the one ive settled on is the 4.I want to aim for one plant,lowrider type & autoflowering,i know there isnt worries with lite schedules with the autos,and with a dual spect bulb theres no hassle with giving one 4 veg then switching,the plant needs it all afterall ive read,so can you suggest any other smallplants i.e 12in? Ive heard of mystic blue & northern lites,any good,& also heard the m.blue is low odour,is this right? My plans after putting the exh fan up the top with a hole half the size of the fan for intake(no fan,just filter 4 dust),the exh fan would exit through venting,turning downward into a homemade sploof activated carbon,made with mesh,filter & tape,im concerned if this fan will be ok,or ive heard of a gel that u leave half open named ozone or something,is this ok? I intend to use soil with a good tomato feed to start so to build up knowledge with plant charactaristics etc,after this is there a general purpose feed for plants,which can be added to with a same brand bud builder out there,can u name something? Is it ok to trim or top autos for xtra buds,how early is this ok,& can u suggest a forum to learn,ive thought about hydro & have bits for it,but i like the idea knowing what goes in to the plant,thus poss avoiding root burn etc,but what is a safe dose or measurement of feed on a bottle,is it quarter or half? Is a wick system ness for one plant or watering/feed better done manually,whats best,i will be near most daily,but can u describe wick making & also is perlite ok on its own 4 drainage & storing or put with wick? What do u think? Is there any suggestions u can help with,i have a place in mind,i have cut the wood,got the bulb(but didnt order lead 4 lite as bigger than standard,looked big as pic blown up so thought normalsize,wen it came,oh no,big,so had to wait 4 spare £)& also ive ordered mylar,6ft,then i will order the activated carbon sheets or granules,can u tell me are they very lite in weight,liter than gravel,i read certain kitty litters work,have you heard this? The 5in fan i have is bearring i think,its very quiet,its clear & has a blue lite too,it seems slower than the 4in,wot'd reckon,need help & guidence as dreamt of growing my own,but i dont want to cock up the curing stage etc,ive taken notes & read lots on many forums,which helps,especially here,is there any suggestions you can help with,i would rather have chat via e-mail or privately,but up to u,what do you think of my plans,i do intend to use bottled water & room temp watering,but i wonder if scrog growing is worth it,im not worried so much with autos,but small sleepy smokes i like,rather than buzzy ones,ive heard of ganja dwarf & lowrider 2,but do'y know of anymore like these u can suggest,now i dont check this forum everyday,but im glad 4 any help,thanx,cypress green.
[love da site,big up,grow ya own me tinx,put dem dealer outta biznizz! ]- Thread starter
- #33
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
Hey direless, you got me on the application i dont know TOO much about aero i know can be Really fickle for flowering,
this is JUST a guess and i have never seen one but i think this is TOTALLY possible and it would make sense to me.
Do any of your nutes have chelated Manganese <--- read closely ? i personally have not seen this nute def. in person but consider your rez has been shooting up, and the problem got worse when you added more Cal/mg is because that wasn't what it was missing it needs Mn which is also the lowest of the absorbed micro nute ph wise (see chart above) and by putting in more cal/mg when it already had it stressed the plant slightly, and from my understanding most of the micro nutrients basicly help the plant deal with the stresses us as a growers put on them aswell as the strain of trying to flower.
personally in my garden micro nutrient's are more rare because i use a great thing called granular anzomite which is from volcanic deposits and has all the micro nute's, hope i can help you out man, and if you can take a picture of your nute Break down on the back of your bottle that says all the percentages of everything about the nutes that would be awesome man.
Thanks for coming by hope i can help man ;D
Hey direless, you got me on the application i dont know TOO much about aero i know can be Really fickle for flowering,
this is JUST a guess and i have never seen one but i think this is TOTALLY possible and it would make sense to me.
Do any of your nutes have chelated Manganese <--- read closely ? i personally have not seen this nute def. in person but consider your rez has been shooting up, and the problem got worse when you added more Cal/mg is because that wasn't what it was missing it needs Mn which is also the lowest of the absorbed micro nute ph wise (see chart above) and by putting in more cal/mg when it already had it stressed the plant slightly, and from my understanding most of the micro nutrients basicly help the plant deal with the stresses us as a growers put on them aswell as the strain of trying to flower.
personally in my garden micro nutrient's are more rare because i use a great thing called granular anzomite which is from volcanic deposits and has all the micro nute's, hope i can help you out man, and if you can take a picture of your nute Break down on the back of your bottle that says all the percentages of everything about the nutes that would be awesome man.
Thanks for coming by hope i can help man ;D
- Thread starter
- #34
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
Hey man chances are that if your room is 90 degrees that your res is too hot too, freeze a 2 liter with like 1/2 or 2/3 water in it and throw that in the rez to cool them off, and i have heard horror stories about shocking your plant like that real late in flowering, this may sound crazy but i have done it no problem as long as you have no light leaks, but give the plant an extra long dark period by skipping a light cycle i have found it really gives a plant to deal with the stress that it is under and will give it a chance to get ready to do her thing. i know this isn't much man but i hope it helps
Hey man chances are that if your room is 90 degrees that your res is too hot too, freeze a 2 liter with like 1/2 or 2/3 water in it and throw that in the rez to cool them off, and i have heard horror stories about shocking your plant like that real late in flowering, this may sound crazy but i have done it no problem as long as you have no light leaks, but give the plant an extra long dark period by skipping a light cycle i have found it really gives a plant to deal with the stress that it is under and will give it a chance to get ready to do her thing. i know this isn't much man but i hope it helps
Hydroponic1
New Member
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
Thanks she is actually starting to stand on her own so we are slowly looking up i may try the extra dark cycle also.
Thanks she is actually starting to stand on her own so we are slowly looking up i may try the extra dark cycle also.
- Thread starter
- #36
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
good that is what is important
good that is what is important
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
Thanks much Green for helping out! And, I know, Aero. Well I hope that it offers me a certain convenience and lower costs once I nail the methodology, and LPA seems more like intermittent NFT the HPA. Anyway, here are the pics of the guaranteed analysis
Flower:
veg:
There appears to be Mn in the veg but not in the flower formula. And I do not see as much of the def. in veg as in flower. I have increased the ppm in veg and they seem much better, a little overcrowed as they wait to move to flower. So, if Mn is the def and not Mg, I guess I need to find a source of Mn or better yet some kind of micro nutrient brew. I know I like micro brew
Perhaps, I need to make a nute change?
I'm wondering, do you see some general differences between nute regimens for indicas and sativas or is it more specific to breeds/genetics
Thanks much Green for helping out! And, I know, Aero. Well I hope that it offers me a certain convenience and lower costs once I nail the methodology, and LPA seems more like intermittent NFT the HPA. Anyway, here are the pics of the guaranteed analysis
Flower:
veg:
There appears to be Mn in the veg but not in the flower formula. And I do not see as much of the def. in veg as in flower. I have increased the ppm in veg and they seem much better, a little overcrowed as they wait to move to flower. So, if Mn is the def and not Mg, I guess I need to find a source of Mn or better yet some kind of micro nutrient brew. I know I like micro brew
Perhaps, I need to make a nute change?I'm wondering, do you see some general differences between nute regimens for indicas and sativas or is it more specific to breeds/genetics
SourSkunkD
New Member
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
hey N.W. im starting off 5 seeds in MG peat moss, i know i know MG! well it was all i could get on short notice the seedling germinated faster then i expected. so my question is there any problems that i should worry about with using peat moss, or when i transplant can, and should i change it, and to what??? lmk! im a new grower and it means alot
hey N.W. im starting off 5 seeds in MG peat moss, i know i know MG! well it was all i could get on short notice the seedling germinated faster then i expected. so my question is there any problems that i should worry about with using peat moss, or when i transplant can, and should i change it, and to what??? lmk! im a new grower and it means alot
SourSkunkD
New Member
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
also where should my ph be ranging around or be set to...
also where should my ph be ranging around or be set to...
- Thread starter
- #40
re: The Green Help-Me Hotline
SOB i typed out a big long thing, and then hit back and deleted it >.<
The basic gist of it was Sativas for the most part in my experiance like a little bit less of the Macro nutes and higher rates of Micro, i think this is because many sativa's come from new Islands and tall mountains, both of which have had volcanic activity so because they have grown in these regions that have that kind of soil for hundreds if not thousands of years... add a lot of BLAHBLAH BLAH and yeah thats why i think most sativa's are this way, and for the most part i think each strain has its own regimen over indica and sativa but i still think that the history of where those strains come from will greatly impact the nute regimen they will enjoy
SOB i typed out a big long thing, and then hit back and deleted it >.<
The basic gist of it was Sativas for the most part in my experiance like a little bit less of the Macro nutes and higher rates of Micro, i think this is because many sativa's come from new Islands and tall mountains, both of which have had volcanic activity so because they have grown in these regions that have that kind of soil for hundreds if not thousands of years... add a lot of BLAHBLAH BLAH and yeah thats why i think most sativa's are this way, and for the most part i think each strain has its own regimen over indica and sativa but i still think that the history of where those strains come from will greatly impact the nute regimen they will enjoy
