- Thread starter
- #21
White dots on hydroton rocks on waterfarms
- Thread starter 420goat
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Tyrone Hamilton
New Member
I've run it with and without nutrients - the "food grade" is kinda hard to find - there is only a few internet retailers that will ship it since it's considered "hazardous" at 30%. You can get stuff on ebay that's diluted to 17%, but I had no problem getting the 30% sent to me from "Garden of Eden" - I think that was the name anyway.
I have not had the problem you have, so it's hard to say what to do exactly.
If it were me, I'd start with it diluted to 3%, and pour a cup right on the buggers to see if it kills them, then wash it off with R/O water. Or, dilute it further... and soak the entire net cup and root system. I could only guess what levels to use... but start at 10ml of the 3% diluted solution per gallon. If they don't die, keep putting more H2O2 in until they do. Please keep in mind this is just me speculating on what to do... I don't know for sure!
It just seems to me the roots will last longer than the bugs in a H2O2 solution.
I've poured the 3% stuff from the drugstore right over the roots into a DWC without killing them, or even bad effects... but I was suffering bad root rot at the time so extreme measures were needed.
Some people say not to use drugstore 3% H2O2 because there are stabilizers that can hurt the plant or you... I just think it's too weak. H2O2 will start to break down at lower concentrations, which is why the 30% is better - you know it's 30% strong, where the stuff from the drugstore could have sat for a while, and lost potency.
Hope that helps!
I have not had the problem you have, so it's hard to say what to do exactly.
If it were me, I'd start with it diluted to 3%, and pour a cup right on the buggers to see if it kills them, then wash it off with R/O water. Or, dilute it further... and soak the entire net cup and root system. I could only guess what levels to use... but start at 10ml of the 3% diluted solution per gallon. If they don't die, keep putting more H2O2 in until they do. Please keep in mind this is just me speculating on what to do... I don't know for sure!
It just seems to me the roots will last longer than the bugs in a H2O2 solution.
I've poured the 3% stuff from the drugstore right over the roots into a DWC without killing them, or even bad effects... but I was suffering bad root rot at the time so extreme measures were needed.
Some people say not to use drugstore 3% H2O2 because there are stabilizers that can hurt the plant or you... I just think it's too weak. H2O2 will start to break down at lower concentrations, which is why the 30% is better - you know it's 30% strong, where the stuff from the drugstore could have sat for a while, and lost potency.
Hope that helps!
- Thread starter
- #23
Tyrone Hamilton
New Member
The 30% would kill the plants, and burn your skin if you're not careful. 3% is safe to handle, and that's the most I've ever put directly on plant roots.
It does not break down quickly - it's more in terms of shelf life.
Oops - I just looked at my bottle, and it's 35%, not 30%. 35% is the standard strength for non-stablized H2O2.
It does not break down quickly - it's more in terms of shelf life.
Oops - I just looked at my bottle, and it's 35%, not 30%. 35% is the standard strength for non-stablized H2O2.
StinkFinger
New Member
I'm gonna pop in here again.
If this were my grow, personally I'd give that Wise product a try.
Reasons:
You won't have to "experiment" with the H2O2
The mfg already gave you a "go-ahead" for your hydro
It's broad spectrum so will target the pest in your roots and reservoir
Your beneficials will still be present, so you won't have to start over
If you order the H2O2, you also have to wait for shipping, and if it doesn't work, you'll need another remedy
Just some things to consider.
I have the highest respect for Obx, he knows his stuff!
SF
If this were my grow, personally I'd give that Wise product a try.
Reasons:
You won't have to "experiment" with the H2O2
The mfg already gave you a "go-ahead" for your hydro
It's broad spectrum so will target the pest in your roots and reservoir
Your beneficials will still be present, so you won't have to start over
If you order the H2O2, you also have to wait for shipping, and if it doesn't work, you'll need another remedy
Just some things to consider.
I have the highest respect for Obx, he knows his stuff!
SF
StinkFinger
New Member
PS. Here's where I ordered my Food Grade H2O2 from.
Celeste' Certified Pure 35% Food Grade Hydrogen Peroxide : Contents
Cough...Cough.
SF
Celeste' Certified Pure 35% Food Grade Hydrogen Peroxide : Contents
Cough...Cough.
SF
Tyrone Hamilton
New Member
Good advice SF - I have to emphasize I'm just guessing in this case...
StinkFinger
New Member
Yeah, Obx, I saw you mentioned this in a previous post.
Again, Mad Respect! And it's still great info to know!
SF
- Thread starter
- #29
Cool. Thx guys. I'm gonna try the WISE product first. My buddy owns the local store and they carry h2o2, so I'll try it out too after, if WISE doesn't work.
FYI- (on a side note) Wen i drain my reservoirs, i water my outdoor plants which include 30 different roses (wife loves'em, haha), Canna Flowers, strawberry plants, an artichoke plant, and a tomato plant. I just put 2-n-2 together and now think my artichoke and tomato plant probably have those bugs too now because they have started to yellow and lose leaves just like my endo and they started at the same time too!! I obviously have stopped feading them with it but i just wanted to share that with all. These plants are outside in dirt pots and are the only 2 that seem 2 be possibly infected, the other plants i mentioned seem to be fine.
FYI- (on a side note) Wen i drain my reservoirs, i water my outdoor plants which include 30 different roses (wife loves'em, haha), Canna Flowers, strawberry plants, an artichoke plant, and a tomato plant. I just put 2-n-2 together and now think my artichoke and tomato plant probably have those bugs too now because they have started to yellow and lose leaves just like my endo and they started at the same time too!! I obviously have stopped feading them with it but i just wanted to share that with all. These plants are outside in dirt pots and are the only 2 that seem 2 be possibly infected, the other plants i mentioned seem to be fine.
- Thread starter
- #30
Got a lab I'm going to tomorrow to have roots and dots analysed and diagnosed. $112 for diagnosis. WE WILL know what these little bugers are!! lol
I talked to a nursery today and they recommended me to use Pyrethium bc its a natural, used from chrysathimums. Just wanted to make sure its ok to use in hydro?.. So far everything I have read says its OK?...but the nursery said it isn't OK w/hydro...
Anybody use it b4? It sounds like a wide spectrum killer too like the WISE product.
These say it's OK...
PyGanic® Crop Protection EC 5.0 II or PyGanic® Crop Protection EC 1.4 II
thx all
I talked to a nursery today and they recommended me to use Pyrethium bc its a natural, used from chrysathimums. Just wanted to make sure its ok to use in hydro?.. So far everything I have read says its OK?...but the nursery said it isn't OK w/hydro...
Anybody use it b4? It sounds like a wide spectrum killer too like the WISE product.
These say it's OK...
PyGanic® Crop Protection EC 5.0 II or PyGanic® Crop Protection EC 1.4 II
thx all
- Thread starter
- #31
So i dropped off my samples today to the lab and should have results by friday. I went to a specialty garden store today and looked at their Pyrethrum liqhuids and all the ones they had, had petroleum in "other ingredients". As far as I know, this is extremely bad for your roots???....
Anyone know? thx
Anyone know? thx
SciFi
New Member
Yea, you don't want to dump petroleum on roots. I'd have invested in one of them $10 radio shack microscopes.. but that's just me. I like doing my own R&D. 
StinkFinger
New Member
StinkFinger
New Member
- Thread starter
- #35
Ok! I'm finally back! So sorry for all of those who have waited so patiently. I can be reached at greenerpasturescg@yahoo.com from here on out for any immediate questions regaurding plant issues. I have learned tremendous amounts since my last post ladies and gentlemen and I'm happy to report 100% success!
My findings were from the plant lab located in Anaheim California for the $112 was well worth the dinero bc they informed me that pythium had infected the system along w/a "Bulb Mite", my "white dots". The mites were contracted from a dispensery via the infamous peat moss cups you read, or should read more about, as to how they can carrier many bugs and diseases and should never be purchased from clubs, especially in Whittier, Ca. HA! fyi- All their clones are either diseased or have bugs. It was learned by the specialists at the Lab that the "bulb mite" is not only a predator mite but also a pest mite as well. While it benificicially eats the decaying dead roots around it, it also has to travel over healthy roots to get to other decaying roots it wishes to continue to feed on, thus spreading the pythium. Pythium is a nemisis to any hydro garden and since pythium is a spore that can be easily transported and is also said to be able to live dormant for 3 years and still spring back to life; it's spores can easily infect the healthy roots the mite travels over to get to the other decaying roots it continues to feed on. While there is really nothing to kill the bulb mite w/o killing your plants, they can be eradicated thru cloning.
To further answer the previous post:
Since Pythium is a spore and travels via air and water, it traveled in the drained water from the inside resevoir to the outside plants that were watered w/the inside reservoir water, which then infected the outside plants as well.
The yellowing that was being experienced was do to the root rot and not the mites. The root rot was later TERMINATED however, healthy root balls were reformed, and 4-6 oz were still harvested per each plant. Please keep reading...
It was learned that H202, "IN MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCES" should NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVERRRRR be used in a hydro system EVERRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!! There is a much better substitute instead. Please read my next post as to the reason why it shouldn't and what should be used instead, as well as how it can be contracted or just be self-created.
It can/will be found under the "NEW OFFICIAL ROOT ROT SITE" and it will be labeled, " I HAVE THE CURE FOR ROOT ROT!" I will also be releasing a new "how to" book on cannabis with all the newest and most updated cannabis information that either Ed Rosenthal is un aware of, or just hasn't published himself, yet, along w'all the latest updated root rot research.
Again, please visit the new post and if it cannot be found yet and immediate questions need to be answered, please feel free to contact Billie Goat at greenerpasturescg@yahoo.com Time is of your escents!! You need to act now!!! Don't procrastinate! Your yield is decreasing like an hour glass!! Literally!!!!!
420 GURU out!
My findings were from the plant lab located in Anaheim California for the $112 was well worth the dinero bc they informed me that pythium had infected the system along w/a "Bulb Mite", my "white dots". The mites were contracted from a dispensery via the infamous peat moss cups you read, or should read more about, as to how they can carrier many bugs and diseases and should never be purchased from clubs, especially in Whittier, Ca. HA! fyi- All their clones are either diseased or have bugs. It was learned by the specialists at the Lab that the "bulb mite" is not only a predator mite but also a pest mite as well. While it benificicially eats the decaying dead roots around it, it also has to travel over healthy roots to get to other decaying roots it wishes to continue to feed on, thus spreading the pythium. Pythium is a nemisis to any hydro garden and since pythium is a spore that can be easily transported and is also said to be able to live dormant for 3 years and still spring back to life; it's spores can easily infect the healthy roots the mite travels over to get to the other decaying roots it continues to feed on. While there is really nothing to kill the bulb mite w/o killing your plants, they can be eradicated thru cloning.
To further answer the previous post:
Since Pythium is a spore and travels via air and water, it traveled in the drained water from the inside resevoir to the outside plants that were watered w/the inside reservoir water, which then infected the outside plants as well.
The yellowing that was being experienced was do to the root rot and not the mites. The root rot was later TERMINATED however, healthy root balls were reformed, and 4-6 oz were still harvested per each plant. Please keep reading...
It was learned that H202, "IN MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCES" should NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVERRRRR be used in a hydro system EVERRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!! There is a much better substitute instead. Please read my next post as to the reason why it shouldn't and what should be used instead, as well as how it can be contracted or just be self-created.
It can/will be found under the "NEW OFFICIAL ROOT ROT SITE" and it will be labeled, " I HAVE THE CURE FOR ROOT ROT!" I will also be releasing a new "how to" book on cannabis with all the newest and most updated cannabis information that either Ed Rosenthal is un aware of, or just hasn't published himself, yet, along w'all the latest updated root rot research.
Again, please visit the new post and if it cannot be found yet and immediate questions need to be answered, please feel free to contact Billie Goat at greenerpasturescg@yahoo.com Time is of your escents!! You need to act now!!! Don't procrastinate! Your yield is decreasing like an hour glass!! Literally!!!!!
420 GURU out!
ptg701
New Member
I have found that re-using Hydroton isn't worth the trouble and cost of cleaning and sterilizing it.
I start each grow with fresh media.
I use the old stuff to landscape my yard.
I start each grow with fresh media.
I use the old stuff to landscape my yard.
