DIY Worm Bin

Composting with redworms is great for apartment dwellers who don’t have yard space, or for those who don’t want to hike to a backyard compost bin with their food scraps. Some kids like to keep worms for pets! By letting worms eat your food wastes, you’ll end up with one of the best soil amendments available—worm castings. This is the cheapest and easiest to manage worm bin system that I’ve seen:

Materials Needed to Make an Easy Harvester Worm Bin:
Two 8-10 gallon plastic storage boxes (dark, not see through!) as shown in pictures Cost: about $5 each
Drill (with 1/4" and 1/16" bits) for making drainage & ventilation holes
Newspaper
About one pound of redworms
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Step 1 Drill about twenty evenly spaced 1/4 inch holes in the bottom of each bin. These holes will provide drainage and allow the worms to crawl into the second bin when you are ready to harvest the castings.
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Step 2
Drill ventilation holes about 1 – 1 ½ inches apart on each side of the bin
near the top edge using the 1/16 inch bit. Also drill about 30 small holes in the top of one of the lids.
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Fig-4
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Step 3
Prepare bedding for the worms by shredding Newspaper into 1 inch strips. Worms need bedding that is moist but not soggy. Moisten the newspaper by soaking it in water and then squeezing out the excess water. Cover the bottom of the bin with 3-4 inches of moist newspaper, fluffed up. If you have any old leaves or leaf litter, that can be added also. Throw in a handful of dirt for "grit" to help the worms digest their food.

Step 4
Add your worms to the bedding. One way to gather redworms, is to put out a large piece of wet cardboard on your lawn or garden at night. The redworms live in the top 3 inches of organic material, and like to come up and feast on the wet cardboard! Lift up cardboard to gather the redworms. Or, if you wish to purchase worms, the Cooperative Extension office can give you names of suppliers in Whatcom County. An earthworm can consume about 1/2 of its weight each day. For example, if your food waste averages 1/2 lb. per day, you will need 1 lb. of worms or a 2:1 ratio. There are roughly 500 worms in one pound. If you start out with less than one pound, don't worry they multiply very quickly. Just adjust the amount that you feed them for your worm population.
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Step 5
Cut a piece of cardboard to fit over the bedding, and get it wet. Then cover the bedding with the cardboard. (Worms love cardboard, and it breaks down within months.)

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Step 6
Place your bin in a well-ventilated area such as a laundry room, garage, balcony, under the kitchen sink, or outside in the shade. Place the bin on top of blocks or bricks or upside down plastic containers to allow for drainage. You can use the lid of the second bin as a tray to catch any moisture that may drain from the bin. This "worm tea" is a great liquid fertilizer.

Step 7
Feed your worms slowly at first. As the worms multiply, you can begin to add more food. Gently bury the food in a different section of the bin each week, under the cardboard. The worms will follow the food scraps around the bin. Burying the food scraps will help to keep fruit flys away.
What do worms like to eat? Feed your worms a vegetarian diet. Most things that would normally go down the garbage disposal can go into your worm bin (see the list below). You will notice that some foods will be eaten faster than others. Worms have their preferences just like us.

Feeding your worms:
(Worms LOVE)
Breads & Grains
Cereal
Coffee grounds & filter
Fruits
Tea bags
Vegetables
(Worms HATE)
Dairy Products
Fats
Meat
Feces
Oils
When the first bin is full and there are no recognizable food scraps, place new bedding material in the second bin and place the bin directly on the compost surface of the first bin. Bury your food scraps to the bedding of the second bin. In one to two months, most of the worms will have moved to the second bin in search of food. Now the first bin will contain (almost) worm free vermicompost. (You can gently lift out any worms that might remain, and place them in the new bin, or put them into your garden!)

Comments

If you want to create better soil then add the following.
Start with about 2 gallons of moist food scraps
Add the following every other time you feed or so
(In addition to the 2 gallons of moist scraps)
4 cups perlite
1-2 cups of well-rinsed coconut coir
1 tablespoon greensand
2 tablespoons crushed or ground oyster shell
1 tablespoon granular rock phosphate
1/4 cup all organic alfalfa pellets
2 tablespoons kelp
2 tablespoons humate (Humic acid ore shale)
Plenty of dried and shredded cannabis leaves, stems and roots
2 cups shredded junk mail/paper
 
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Now I see the door closing
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I got a feeling coming on
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So please, I know it's too late
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I feel the door closing
I see myself getting older
I got a feeling I'll never be free
Until it's over

I got a feeling coming on
Life is taking way too long
I'll see you when I'm home
 
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How to Make Worm Castings Tea
Worm tea may not sound too appetizing but your plants will really love it. You can buy this amazing fertilizer from a number of on-line sites but if you have a worm bin, you can make your own. Worm tea lets you fertilize without adding bulk to your soil and water your garden with something really "nutritious" for your plants. Here's how to make "tea" from worm castings. Your garden will practically jump up and shout "Hallelujah!" when fertilized with this mixture and you will be amazed at the growth and flowering that results.

Ingredients
2 cups of well composted worm castings (no large scraps, preferably sifted)
2 tablespoons of corn syrup or molasses
Water which has been left to stand overnight or rain water.

Steps
1-Fill a bucket with water. Either use rainwater or let the water stand so the chlorine can evaporate out. You don't want to kill the beneficial micro-organisms, which is the point of municipal chlorine. Using a bubbler will speed up the release of Cl- ions from the water, cutting down the time the water needs to stand.
2-Add the corn syrup or molasses to the water. This will serve as food for the micro-organisms. It helps to dissolve the molasses in a small volume (like half a cup) of hot water before adding it to the bucket. This prevents potential obstruction of your air bubblers.
3-Place castings in the bucket by either: putting the castings into a thin mesh "teabag" of pantyhose or a similarly sheer sock and knotting the end. The knotted end of the bag can be hung down and submerged so the tea bag is situated above the rising bubbles. Some simply dump the teabag in.

putting the castings in directly if you plan to use a watering can anyway, otherwise, straining through cheesecloth or mesh may be necessary when using backpack-type sprayer with nozzles that could clog easily with debris and detritus.

4-Realize the grade or particle sizes of your choice of castings (determined by source and packaging process) play a role in making this choice. Casting particles in sizes larger than marbles, or even bark mulch. Others are finely ground castings, smaller than ball bearings. The difference in total surface area exposed to water is much larger for the finely ground which has more exposure to the aerated water.
5-Put the worm castings in directly into the bucket. Some people say put the castings in an old sock or stocking hose that has no holes and tie the opening closed. This does not allow the castings to exchange into the water freely and slows the growth of the micro critters. Both ways give satisfactory results with the castings right in the water. Also, slime mould formations which are micro critter super colonies, may form. This shows the intense populations of tea made this way. You can use a plastic watering can without the strainer on the end and apply the tea in total - castings and all.
6-Use a bubbler like an aquarium pump and air stone if you have one. Place it in the the bucket and hold the air stone to the bottom with a rock. Plug in the bubbler so the the water is aerated.
7-Let water and castings bubble (or at least soak) for 24 hours. If you don't have a bubbler, consider stirring occasionally- don't worry you cannot hurt the micro critters (microbes) by stirring. The air stone at the bottom of the bucket will cause the tea to be in constant mix - this is the best way to get a high yield tea.
8-To produce high yield tea, conditions should be desirable for the microbes to proliferate, multiplying exponentially. The microorganisms from the digestive system of the worm are extruded in their castings. These aerobic (oxygen-dependent) microbes are "good" microbes for plants (nature's way). Bad microbes are typically anaerobic (oxygen kills them) and many give off offensive odors as they release byproducts of metabolism like hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg smell). Aerating the tea improves conditions (agitation, circulation, aeration) for the good microbes, which enhance (survival, reproduction, growth). Aeration helps suppress the presence or growth of bad "bugs" that will compete against the good ones. Use of a bubbler helps along dissolution of the molasses food as well; it dissolves and diffuses more rapidly. Some instructions for tea setups without a bubbler recommend up to three days of brewing.
9-Use within 48 hours. Exponential populations in limited spaces eventually peak and then plunge with massive population loss. We want the tea to be biologically active, alive, with good microbes like Bacillus subtilis.
10-Refrigerate (in a sealed, labeled container) for up to 3 days. Non-pleasing odors from the tea after initial brewing or prolonged refrigeration may signal a low quality brew which should probably be dumped. This could be added to a composter or wormery to prevent waste.
Video

Tips
If making tea mid season, sources of phosphorus, like bat guano can be added to boost flowering and fruiting if worm cast tea will be a main source of feeding your soil.
Castings tea must be "brewed" (allowed to set or "steep") as directed above to be most effective. By steeping the castings and aerating the mixture you encourage the growth of micro-organisms which are beneficial to plants.
If using an old sock, it may need washing. "Bad," anaerobic microbes may be present (such as those which produce bad foot odor).
Some people recommend adding epsom salts (magnesium sulfate and calcium) at 1 tsp to 1 Tbsp per gallon, which can help soften up rigid soil.
For the same reason, you should always use water that is chlorine free. Rain water is best but you can also let the water in the bucket stand overnight and the chlorine will dissipate.

Things You'll Need
5 gallon bucket
Aquarium pump, airline, and bubbler stone (optional)
earth worm castings
2tbs of epsom salt
1/4 cup of vinegar​
 
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