Watch This Flux - 1st 420 Outdoor Fluxing - Presents Fluxy Lady - Fully Restraine

TassieDevil;2049847 said:
I was in between things and traveling well more meandering up and then down the coast, Camping, surfing, sleeping....it was, at the time idyllic. I had just finished a 6 year stint in the armed forces. I was trying to decide if I was going to become a career man, or go another way. I needed time to think, breathe again, surf, look at the sunshine. I needed to be me again.

Driving and open spaces allways cleared my mind. Driving for thinking....open spaces for not. I needed time for both, I needed time to just lay on a board, drifting, rocking gently looking skyward, just time to be in awe of life again, instead of trying to defend or destroy it.

Girls at the time for me were of interest, but only fleetingly, as they also had requirements, and each girls requirements are different. I didn't have the time because I was only passing through anyway....just passing, interest.

I pulled into a Tourist information map and was looking at the coastline for campsites etc near beaches. Found what I thought was the right way to a known campground and somehow got lost. Ended driving down an ever narrowing road to a clearing with a beach...this wasn't mapped...Im sure..it didn't matter, I could see the coast, feel the sting of a driven onshore breeze...I was home.

Next day was still shocking weather wise and I stayed camped in the car. 1982 Ford XD Panel Van. 302 Cleavland V8, running gas, single exhaust....low and lumpy, it had a purr that was quietly confident, and a comforting rumble through the seat.

The following day broke mid morning sunshine. The onshore breeze had softened to a whisper....the only sign of the past days weather was the usual kelp and debris dumped up to high tide...everything else had been washed clean and now sparkled.

There was one rip evident at the northern end of the beach, and maybe a pipe or channel down the southern end. Two like this are often linked the rip takes you out, the channel brings you back in...or they're not linked and you get taken somewhere else. I was quietly confident and put in at the northern rip.

Now came the slow offshore drift. Floating on my board, a watch as the rip starts pulling me out...its slow, gentle...I lay back on the board staring up at the sky, watching the shore birds come and go...drifting, gently rocking, drifting....
I started to doze off, the numbing rock of the ocean was pulling me under....drifting....

"Hello?"
The ocean is talking to me again...it doesn't usually say hello, but ok..
"hello"
"Hello?!"
I'm bolt upright, head spinning, commands screaming in my head...lost I fix landmarks and see the point, the beach, the point. I snap around to see the silohette of a person...the sun is right behind....hips...hair....her...
"Hi, are u OK?"
Still reeling to snap out of the my floating sleep, I fix again eyes...blue, sparkling, her eye lashes were stuck together like she had mascara...Mouth...smiling edge curved slighly higher on the left side...mmm bit cute...eyes...she's still looking straight at me...
"I said, are u OK?"
Slicked back blonde hair, wet from salt water draped over one shoulder, slender long neck with a bleached shell necklace, led me to delicate shoulders, brown, glistening, the hairs were standing up slightly on her arms...eyes...
"Yes, um, yes, thanks, I was just drifting...its just the perfect day"...eyes
I was now staring back at her, smiling. Her eyes flicked down, her smile widened, and the straightened as the lifted her head
"Im glad, I saw the board, but couldn't see anyone around, I thought..."
"What's your name?" I interrupted her, her held tilted up and left with a slight flick of a smile
"Marley"
With that, I was smitten. We sat on the boards, talked, floated back into shore in the channel and then sat locked in conversation for the rest of the day. She was beautiful, younger than I , slight build with a lightness of being and a grace of movement that was just mesmerising to be around. She was easy to talk to, easier than I'd ever known any woman to be, considerate and kind with her words, I was transfixed...time and life and everything around me had just stopped....silent....the only thing I could see and hear were her.

For the best waves we had to walk the beach out along a rocky point and jump in with rising swell into the deep water, for the paddle to the real surf.
We were close to the drop off point, I'd just looked over to see her bend over to tie her leg strap on...she was just an amazing collection of curves, colours, sights and sounds, she was stunning. You know how sometimes you get a feeling that you shouldn't be staring at something, but you do anyway?

I wasn't watching the rising surf nor the green slime I'd just put my foot on...

I slipped, was laying down on the rocks. If I had have been standing, I could have easily resisted the tide, it'd be just 1/2 way between knee and ankle, but the tide and rising water floated me out like a raft 12 feet away to sea, into the barnicles you usually miss when on top of a board.

I was pulled into the barnicles and down the face of the rocks.
Underwater momentarily I start to feel burning in my legs, backside and back...
Surface....big gulp of air, turn rocks now 12 feet away, rising swell....damn duck under the swell but am now six feet away from the rock and barnicled edge that has just lacerated me from ankle to hip. I was in 15°C water, but half my body felt like it was on fire...salt water, open wounds...
I had to swim back away from the rocks and tread water for a bit, I had to get the rhythm of the swell, and wait in the surf for the next rise big enough to lift me back on top of the rocks, not back into the edge of the shelf where the barnicles were.

It felt like hours. Finally I saw a set coming with a large one behind it, I'd get pushed back in just far enough to be lifted by the last set up and onto the rocks....
Timing, burning....breathing...struggling
The first two left me short of where I wanted to be, so I started swimming straight for the rocks....it was now or never, my heart rate was too high and I was struggling to stay afloat, struggling to breathe.

There is a stillness, a peace in focused attention. It can allow a pianist to complete a passage or piece despite nervous tension, it can allow a winter sports person to hold their hands steady to fire at a target just after skiing km's at race speed.
I found it in the rush and the roar of the surf...the screaming pain in the lower half of my body, the last ditch effort of a desparate man led to a focus on timing

...I saw the last wave drop, the undertow of my wave pull me horizontal. Arms, legs, thrashing, increasing roar of the surge, and the lift...this is where everything goes silent...
Im watching as the edge of the rocks get closer, but increasingly below me, I feel the power of the surf pushing, I already know in that instant where Im going to land...I know in that moment Im out.

1/2 hour wait for an ambulance. 2.5 hours to the nearest hospital. 1 1/2 L of blood, 106 stiches, loss of one autographed tri-fin thruster, 4 days later, loss of one fantastically beautiful woman, and 6 weeks recovery to go.

All for paying far too much attention to a gentle curves of a lovely lady, and some great smoke :)

You asked for it!

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TassieDevil
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