2x2 Tent Problem: Serrated Part Cupping Upwards & Brown Spots

[Sm0k3yMcB1uNt]

Hey all, I'm new to this forum as we just started growing and popped some seeds in January. We're growing Grapefruit Diesel from Next Generation. I wanted to know what you think might be my current problem? I was thinking it is heat stress, so today we raised the light to 30" (2½ft) and changed the temperature controller to 20-21.5°C (It was set at 21-25°C two days ago). Also, we noticed humidity was a little low this AM so we turned the mist setting up a tad to achieve 50-52%. I should mention that I topped the plants to the 3rd node yesterday, they were into their 6-7th node when we topped them.
To fill you in on our setup. Currently we are running two LED's (ONEO LED Grow Light 1000W), using Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil and Remo Nutrients (got the supercharged kit) in 3gallon Smart Pots. We have been feeding every 7 days roughly depending on the weight of the pot, water PHd at 6.4-6.5. In the beginning we were battling humidity problems so we added a humidifier that can read and keep the tent humidity at 45-55% (TaoTronics Cool Mist Humidifier). Then we started having problems with low temperature, so we made the addition of a small heater (AmazonBasics 500-Watt Ceramic Small Space Personal Mini Heater - Pink) the heater is hooked up to a temperature controller (Inkbird ITC-308 Temperature Controller) to keep room temperature between 20-21.5°C. The heater is pointed toward the wall of the tent to avoid hot spots on the plants. We have a carbon filter running and it's outside the tent, it's pulling air out of the tent and into the carbon filter (iPower 4 Inch 190 CFM Inline Fan), this is accompanied by a smaller fan for air circulation that pointed above the plants (not at them) to help with circulation and hot spots.
Any help would or advice would be much appreciated, I was thinking maybe we could remove the heater if the problem persists and place it near to the outside of the tent instead.

 

[Carcass]

Welcome to 420, Smokey!

That's the same light I've been using (in a 2'x2') for a couple of years...I only use 1, and I've had pretty good luck with it. (I do have a spare one though- because they're damn good lights for the price)

I think you're giving them too much light (light stress)- I'd veg with just one light, and turn the second one on for flowering, although you might still have the same problem in flower- the one light will actually do just fine.

Right now, you're giving the plants apx 100watts/Sq.ft.-that's way more than they need, or can process...I know- the more the merrier for light, but there is an upward limit to this thinking- 1 light will give you apx. 50w/sq.ft., which is just about right...
If you do keep using both lights, you should space them apart 4 or 5 inches- the way they're hanging now
is messing up the cooling airflow, and can cause hotspots on the led board...which may not hurt anything, or it could shorten the life of the lights.

Here's my current plant at day 50 of flowering, growing under 1 Oneo 1000w-(195 watts from the wall) I've only got 37" from floor to light, so I run the light pretty close- started at 24", currently 12" from the top of the plant.

2.jpg

• Carcass
• Feb 4, 2021

SSH

 

[Sm0k3yMcB1uNt]

Welcome to 420, Smokey!

That's the same light I've been using (in a 2'x2') for a couple of years...I only use 1, and I've had pretty good luck with it. (I do have a spare one though- because they're damn good lights for the price)

I think you're giving them too much light (light stress)- I'd veg with just one light, and turn the second one on for flowering, although you might still have the same problem in flower- the one light will actually do just fine.

Right now, you're giving the plants apx 100watts/Sq.ft.-that's way more than they need, or can process...I know- the more the merrier for light, but there is an upward limit to this thinking- 1 light will give you apx. 50w/sq.ft., which is just about right...
If you do keep using both lights, you should space them apart 4 or 5 inches- the way they're hanging now
is messing up the cooling airflow, and can cause hotspots on the led board...which may not hurt anything, or it could shorten the life of the lights.

Here's my current plant at day 50 of flowering, growing under 1 Oneo 1000w- I've only got 37" from floor to light, so I run the light pretty close- started at 24", currently 12" from the top of the plant.

2.jpg

• Carcass
• Feb 4, 2021

SSH

Hey Carcass,

I heard great things about the light too which is why I bought them, they are great! I Just put the second light into the tent the yesterday so they've only gotten one full light cycle with both lights, I'll turn off the second light though until flowering. Also, I will separate the lights. I read that two lights are recommended for flower which is why I grabbed an additional light. However, the problem started well before the addition of the second light on yesterday. Currently the light is sitting at 30" (2½ft) from soil level, but maybe I could raise the light to 3ft?

There has been growth, but it's slow. It has been since January 8th that the seeds germinated and were put into jiffy pucks. The problem seems to have started around when I transplanted the plants from red solo cups to their final 3 gallon smart pots. They were doing fine up until that point.

Someone had mentioned that it could possibly be root problems from fully watering the 3 gallon pot with such small plants. I stared fully watering the pot after they got transplanted into 3gallon pots from red solo cups. They think that I'm overwatering the plants by fully watering the 3 gallon pots until there is runoff. They suggested giving it only 1 red solo cup of water every few days as needed based on soil moisture levels.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[Carcass]

I fully water my 3 gallon pots when I transplant- then they don't get another full watering for 2 weeks or so-
I do water the top of the soil a little every couple of days so the surface roots don't dry out- maybe 3 oz. or so, and it seems to work pretty well.

The problem seems to have started around when I transplanted the plants from red solo cups to their final 3 gallon smart pots. They were doing fine up until that point.

Did you remove the "netting" from the jiffy pucks when you transplanted?- a lot of times, the roots
have a hard time getting through that netting, and this can slow the plant way down, or even permanently stunt it.
I don't use jiffy pucks, but I've heard this from some folks who have had this problem...

 

[Sm0k3yMcB1uNt]

They got their first full watering after transplanting and I gave them another full watering 7 days after transplanting, but I didn't mist between those 7 days to assure the soil was dry.

I didn't remove the netting, but the roots were poking through the netting when I put them in red solo cups. It wasn't until about a week later when I transplant them from red solo cups to 3 gallon containers that they seemed to have problems. Next time I'm going to use rapid rooters, I think jiffy pucks was a bad call.

Hopefully by raising the light a bit it will help with the possibility of light stress.

 

[Carcass]

Hopefully by raising the light a bit it will help with the possibility of light stress.

It couldn't hurt- if the plants start to stretch too much, you can just drop it back down a few inches.

 

[013]

Yup same problem here with peat pucks, did rootopsy on several young plant fatalities and this was the common theme I found - the roots were tiny and never grew thru the membrane.

ok you missed a step in there helps to go from solo cup to 1 gallon but get them rootbound AF before you upcan. Slip the container off to check but dont jump to next size until outside edge is covered in roots. Also helps to lightly score roots with sterile knife in a few places, encourages them to take over new home