Air Layering

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I moved this from GoldenGoose7's original , so as not to hijack his thread.


What is Air Layering?
by Andy Walsh
Introduction by Brent Walston
Air layering is the process of removing a large branch or section of the trunk of a tree to create another tree. Before the branch is removed it is girdled, protected with peat moss or other media and the girdled section is allowed to root. After rooting the branch is removed from the tree. This is a very common practice in bonsai to obtain another tree from an unwanted branch or to save a thick trunk section that was going to be removed anyway. Andy Walsh posted a short but very informative article on the physiology of this process on the Internet Bonsai Club mail list. Knowing how a tree forms roots at an air layer site provides powerful information for not only understanding the process, but also a vehicle for answering your own questions and solving your own problems in air layering.
BW
Transport of Food, Water, and Nutrients
Under the bark of trees (dicotyledonous ones) there is a layer of cells called the phloem. This tissue transports carbohydrates and other photosynthates (including auxin) down from the leaves to the lower parts of the plant. Beneath the phloem layer is another layer called the xylem that transports water and mineral nutrients from the roots and soil up to the leafy parts of the tree. Beneath the xylem is another xylem layer called the secondary xylem. These xylem layers are thicker and deeper into the wood of the tree than the phloem layer. Lying on top of these layers just under the bark is a layer of actively dividing cells called the cambium.

The Air Layering Process
In the process of airlayering, the bark, the cambium, and the phloem layer are removed by cutting away about a 1 inch wide ring of these tissues from around the circumference of the shoot. The xylem however is left intact. This is known as girdling. Generally, synthetic auxins (in a vehicle of talc powder or by liquid) are applied to the site where the tissues have been removed. (Although applying auxin is the general practice today it is not necessary for many trees). Wet sphagnum moss (or another moisture retentive soil) is then bunched around and over this girdled site and covered with plastic and sealed.

What Happens at the Air Layer Site
The removal of the bark, cambium, and phloem, but not the xylem, prevents carbohydrates and photosynthates from flowing down the trunk past the girdling site but still allows water and mineral nutrients to flow upward to the leaves. This keeps the leafy portions of the shoot from drying out and maintains them with an adequate supply of nutrients. The removal of the actively growing cambium layer prevents the regeneration of phloem and healing over of the wound. Because of this the carbohydrates and photosynthates flowing down the trunk collect at the girdling site. The presence of these excesses of carbohydrates and photosynthates (esp. auxin) at the girdling site, plus the presence of the water in the sphagnum moss, causes dormant adventitious buds in the area to grow into roots. When there are enough roots to sustain the shoot independently the shoot is cut off of the tree and then planted or potted.

The Difference Between Air Layers and Cuttings
The propagation of plants by cuttings occurs by the same principles and has very similar circumstances. The difference is that the shoot is removed from plant at the start and water and nutrients flow up the shoot from the cut site by capillary action instead. This kind of propagation can only be done with small and thin shoots since the flow of water is insufficient for larger branches. Airlayering solves this problem and allows the creation of new plants from very large parts of trees.





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I found this technique rather intriguing, so I thought I would try it.

I have some lower branches on my mother that were destined for the chopping block anyway, and what the heck.

My mother is about 3-1/2 months old. The lower branches have been bent and twisted and repositioned, supercropped (is this right? Where you pinch or squeeze the branches to make them thicker?), almost to the point where you could make lumber from them.

I picked a part of the branch that had one of those little leaflet bunches growing from it. I made two cuts, one above the node and one below, just deep enough to cut through the bark. Using a scalpel, the outer bark was peeled back and removed bit by bit until the entire circumference of the branch was cleared. Then using the back side of the blade, I lightly scraped the remainder of the cambium layer and any leftover material off the exposed area. (Once the xylem layer is exposed and the plant starts to "weep", it cleans off very easily). After applying cloning gel, I wrapped the area in a piece of pre-treated and moistened rockwool. Then wrapped the whole thing in plastic and taped it down.

The whole process took about 30 - 45 minutes. The only problems I had were trying to work in a confined space with big ugly maulers, and trying to get the tape in place. I am sure with more practice, it would come easier.

Now it's up to mum. If this works, great. If not, oh well.
 
Seems like it would be a great idea for people who's legal medicinal grows have plant limits in which rooted clones are counted.

I have been wondering just how necessary it is to remove the outer layers on cannabis plants. Cuttings root like weeds - and as people who've grown sprawling outdoor crops have found, if a branch comes in contact with the ground for an extended length of time, it sometimes roots to the ground.
 
Special thanks to TorturedSoul on this one. Never would have found this on the net if TS hadn't mentioned it.
 
Update: as per my usual results, total failure. Well, not quite. Roots did develop inside the "cocoon" while still on the mother. But after ten days or so, a sort of fuzzy moldy looking growth started at the tape sites. Fearing disaster to the mom, I removed the complete branch at the trunk (more like an amputation than a trim). When I opened the tape up and removed the rockwool, there were small root tips developing. I figured I might be able to save it, so I built a small capacity bubbler and put the cutting in. Surprisingly, root growth continued and all looked well. Then disaster struck. We had a mini heat wave and temps in the room hit 84*. Within an hour or so, the whole cutting had wilted. By that evening the temps had returned to normal. I tried to baby it back, but after another eleven days, it was just too far gone. Ceremoniously disposed of with a moment of silence from her sisters. That pretty well ended that.

So, having said all this, I'm sure someone who is better at growing than I, would probably do quite well. My "brown touch" got me again. Good luck to any that try it.
 
I too will try this method of cloning since all my other attempts at cloning are mainly failure. Info I can't find is after doing this process, what care do I give my mother plant to prepare her for next time? I can sure use some advice.
 
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