Can someone diagnose my flowering plant leaves?

[healthdude38]

OK. Your at week 7. The buds look great. What say them under a good loop? Because without that, best guess is best I can offer.
If those gals are around 8 week finishers, it time to flush anyway. This said, your indicator leaves (water leaves) seem to be showing classic signs of nutrient overload. Without knowing variables,, again, it’s a best guess scenario. Also, let’s say it was nutrient burn, and you quickly recover. Those leaves are nutrient burned forever and won’t recover. The good thing with WTC it’s really quick to recover from mishaps. Also, a few photos of the root zone might be helpful as well.
The best advice I could offer you would be to get a few tools. First is a quality ph and ec/ppm meter. Armed with these two tools, you can not only easily verify changes but adjust as needed, but I use my ec meter to tell me how well the girls are eating. It can also tell you when they aren’t eating. Same with ph, ESPECIALLY is DWC. It’s a fine line here, because above and below on the ph scale can lock your plant out of needed nutrients like flipping a light switch. I aim for a general ph of between 5.8 and 6.0, however once you get playing with it you can use this knowledge to benefit your plants. If I can locate a deficiency in either macro or micro, I can find at what ph that particular micro nute is best assimilated at and dial that in for a day or two before returning to an average. The biggest problem I face isn’t that I don’t know if the girls are eating or how much they are eating. I can tell that. What I can’t tell is specifically which “salts” they are eating. If you don’t start fresh every week or two depending on reservoir size, you risk a nutrient lockout scenario, which because your DWC is easily remedied.
Grab a loop. Check out the trics. Those buds look like they are ready for flushing, again, because you are DWC is really easy to feed those gals a low ppm water, kick the lights off temps down 10 deg and watch those gals get desperate…

I was just thinking about getting a loop today, it's time to check these trichs.. and the plants are 9 week finishers, well that's what the breeder says but they may take 1 more week..

Week 8 flower starts today so the plants should be ready in 2 weeks max.. let's see.. since I turned down the light to 600w they seem to be doing better, pistills are turning yellow and so on.. before they just looked the same with no progress for almost 2 weeks..

 

[Delps8]

First time I’ve seen someone say no need for cal-mag in DWC. Interesting. Guess I’ve been wasting money for the last year on cal-mag in my DWC

Charlie - howdy.

The key words in what @Wastei wrote are "complete plant food." and, with that qualifier, he's spot on.

In hydro, the water source is a big issue. If you're using water that has "an acceptable" level of Ca and Mg, then you don't need a fert that provides is. OTOH if you're using RO water there's no Ca or Mg, so you still have to provide Ca and Mg to your plants. The source of those chemicals (and all of the others) is not germane - it's just a matter of the chemicals being made available to the plants.

A grower buying premixed nutes is getting a guaranteed minimum level of chemicals, per the back of the bottle or, in my case using Jacks 3-2-1 for RO, on the bag. Yup, that's a dry fert that's designed to work with RO. There's also a Jacks 3-2-1 for people not using RO//who have city water that provides adequate levels of those nutrients.

Google "jacks nutrients what do I choose" and follow the link. I'm not saying you should be using Jack's but I found their "decision tree" informative.

 

[Wrecked11]

I'm sorry I don't quiet understand what you mean. What guess? Root rot? Why? I don't have no root rot, the water in the reservoir looks clean, the roots are white. I think the problem here is more of a nutrient lockout that's causing a calcium deficiency, and since I'm trying to flush and can't get the PH stabilise, everything got worse

Ph up or down?