CFL Light Tutorial

I wonder if this is ALL bulbs? or just flouros and incandescents?



Coming in 2011: New Labels for Light Bulb Packaging


Lumens and Kelvins, and NOT Watts!

Labels Will Emphasize Lumens, Not Watts, as a Measure of Bulb Brightness
Starting in mid-2011, the Federal Trade Commission announced today, consumers shopping for light bulbs will notice new labeling on packaging designed to help them choose among the different types of bulbs on the market – traditional incandescent bulbs, and newer high-efficiency compact fluorescent (CFL) and light-emitting diode (LED) bulbs. The new labels will enable consumers to save money by selecting the most efficient bulbs that best fit their lighting needs.

Under direction from Congress to re-examine the current labels, the FTC is announcing a final rule that will require the new labels on light bulb packages. For the first time, the label on the front of the package will emphasize the bulbs’ brightness as measured in lumens, rather than a measurement of watts. The new front-of-package labels also will include the estimated yearly energy cost for the particular type of bulb.

While watt measurements are familiar to consumers and have been featured on the front of light bulb packages for decades, watts are a measurement of energy use, not brightness. As a result, reliance on watt measurements alone make it difficult for consumers to compare traditional incandescent bulbs to more efficient bulbs, such as compact fluorescents. A compact fluorescent bulb may be able to produce the same amount of brightness as a traditional incandescent bulb, while using significantly less energy, or watts. New energy standards mandated by Congress will effectively phase out traditional low-efficiency incandescent bulbs from the U.S. market over the next few years. The new labels that focus on brightness in lumens will help consumers make purchasing decisions as they transition to more energy-efficient types of bulbs.

Under the new rule, the back of each package of light bulbs will have a “Lighting Facts” label modeled after the “Nutrition Facts” label that is currently on food packages. The Lighting Facts label will provide information about:

brightness;
energy cost;
the bulb’s life expectancy;
kelvins;
light appearance (for example, if the bulb provides “warm” or “cool” light);
wattage (the amount of energy the bulb uses); and
whether the bulb contains mercury.
The bulb’s brightness, measured in lumens, and a disclosure for bulbs containing mercury, also will be printed on each bulb.
 
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the new bulb label.
 
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the new bulb label.

Next congress need to look @ legalizing MJ so we can help use up some of that rising water in the seas. But damn wonder who came up with the idea of the label? Very use ful information rather than looking up specs online. Only if they put the exact UV color like Red or Blue for the noob growers then that would be awesome. Well i guess thats what the Cool white or daylight is for but more indirect
 
origamijoint - Congratulations! :goodjob:

Thanks. There is no....no way I could have started strong.....recovered as I did from the brown algae.....or finished with anything like I have.....without you all.


AND Roseman is correct.....there is nothing....nothing better that sitting back and enjoying your own.....with the thought....I (read we as I include you all) did this.
 
Hey Roseman, there are many references to fans throughout your post. How do I hook up one of these computer fans to ac? They all seem to be dc.
 
Hey Roseman, there are many references to fans throughout your post. How do I hook up one of these computer fans to ac? They all seem to be dc.

I am an electrical engineer so I hope that Roseman don't mind my answering for him.

Now on the computer fan, I just installed one myself this week.

I took a computer fan and installed it on a wooden clothes hamper. It was 12volts dc. I collect and save power supplies for phones and different devices and have quite a collection. I just cut the plug off of one that was fairly hefty and used that to power the fan.

Now some fans if hooked up backwards they do not run at all. In other cases the fan will run in reverse. In my case I hooked mine up backwards and it didn't run. So I reversed the connection and it ran fine.

Words of caution:

1. Do not use a fan that exceeds the wattage of the power supply or you will burn it up and could stat a fire (unlikely, but possible). Wattages are written on both devices.

2. Make sure you protect your connections with a good means of insulation so that you do not short them.

3. You have some leeway, but you want to stick as close to the fan voltage as possible. I would not want to go any lower than 9 volts and not much higher that 18 volts if your fan is 12 volts. What happens with motors is the higher the voltage the faster the motor will run. However, you can get into trouble if you try to push that too much, so it is best to stick to the rated voltage as close as possible.


Like I say, I collect and save power supplies. I have a box full of them and I coil up the cords and tape them or use zip ties so I do not have a tangled mess.

Generally speaking, the bigger (in physical size) the power supply the better for a continuous running fan. Still read the wattage. If you have a 10 watt fan, for instance, a 20 watt power supply would be better and it would be larger in physical size as well.

My setup mentioned above is sort of ghetto but you could buy a female receptacle at an electronics store if you wanted.

You can buy computer fans and power supplies at electronics stores, like Radio Shack.

You can often find power supplies at second hand stores like Goodwill or even garage sales.

Please ask if you need further assistance.
 
My father bought a 20V fan that can sit ontop of his receiver and wired it using a standard two prong power cable like the one that plugs into the back or a comcast box or direct TV box. Kind of the same for some laptops that plugs into the charger with the two small ends he cut the end that plugs into a device split it stripped it use black electrical tape and shebang it worked. G dog is right though you do want to match the voltage/wattage or it could end up getting ugly. So i have a question for you Gdog and sorry RM for asking here. Say i want to wire my lights HPS or CFL to a timer but my house has 15V amps how would i go about doing that? Someone mentioned buying a heavy duty extension cord and cut split and strip and wire to the Heavy duty timer. Is that something not to advanced for a rookie? I fix PC's and such so I think i could figure it out just want to see an electrical engineers opinion. PLus i see on cfl's it says do not use with a timer lol so what would you have to say in regards to that as well?
 
Myzz617

I am new around here and do not want to step on anyone's toes. Maybe I should find a place to open a thread of my own. Much respect to Rose and the integrity and hard work he has put into this thread that seems focused on one thing.

I will answer this one here and hope that I can find the correct place to open a Q&A thread in regard to electrical engineering.

Your question is should you use an extention cord?

When you ask an electrical question it is always best to put in as much information as you can, like what is the wattage of the fixture and what ever else may be on that circuit.

You should know that if you want to know how to figure out how many amps you are drawing you just total the watts and divide that by your voltage. So if you have say a 400w fixture and 120v you have 3.33 amps. w/v=a. Make sure you know what is on the circuit in the house if it is not a dedicated circuit.

Too many unknowns for me to give you a straight answer, but if you use a heavy enough extention cord and the timer is rated for the load (wattage) it should be safe. Just don't scrimp on those two things.
 
Sweet thanks for the advice. Best to leave it @ that. I think I might just do a CFL veg grow not really feeling the MH as many say it produces much heat. PPL also say many CFL's produce as much heat but I think they are the much cooler option. I think Im going to try to make one of the CFL fixtures someone posted on here but I have 42W bulbs they might be a bit too big to make the PVC fixture. Will have to see what is best to use the hood reflectors i have or finagle a fixture.
 
Myzz617

I am new around here and do not want to step on anyone's toes. Maybe I should find a place to open a thread of my own. Much respect to Rose and the integrity and hard work he has put into this thread that seems focused on one thing.

I will answer this one here and hope that I can find the correct place to open a Q&A thread in regard to electrical engineering.

Thanks so much for the info on the fans. I have been through many of the forums and didn't come across much technical on how to wire up lights and stuff. I think you should definitely start a blog or tutorial on electrical. The admins might even make it a sticky.

I am growing outside now but am thinking of doing something inside during winter and I have so many questions. For example, how many lights can I put on a single wall outlet? How do I figure it: is it by watts or amp/current draw etc. etc. Then adding fans, and exhaust - how can I be safe?

We definitely can use a comprehensive electrical DIY tutorial. :thanks::yahoo:
 
Considering the benefits, and drawbacks of CFL's vs HID/HPS's, color me CFL.

Being a single plant grower for personal use, I built this 20"X20" CFL light canopy using foam board, and 8 42W CFL's, with a simple fan recessed into the hood. I couldn't be any happier with the results. The plant pictured here was harvested last Christmas, yielding 3 oz of fat, trich covered buds that I'm still smoking. This years plant just flowered, and was germinated from the few seeds this lady produced on her own. Like Jeff Goldbloom said in Jurassic Park, "Life finds a way"

Hope this helps, or gives some of you new growers some ideas.

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