invi
New Member
Hey!
If anyone could tell me whether my thinking is correct it would be great. I plan to introduce CO to my garden - but would be nice to know if it's of any use in my situation, and if my plan regarding control can work.
The girls are in soil. I have a small hot place in the attic, temps reach 90F, or go up till maybe 95F - i measured that when the thermometer got direct light, and with door closed. I measured 81-88F at canopy level in shade, and near the vents that circulate inside air. There are 2 HPS for a 12 square feet area with ~90k lumens (7450 lumen/sqfeet). Humidity can reach 60-70 when the lights are off on a rainy day, but the HPSs reduce this to 50 or below usually. Since proper ventillation would cost about as much as a CO2 tank with a solenoid valve i thought it might bring better yield then just fixing ventillation.
Hope this is correct so far.
I could not find a CO2 controller around here for less than a $1000 (there are cheaper 'CO controllers', those only have a timer and maybe a light detector to disable CO2 in the dark, but no actual ppm meter). A few hundred bucks would be fine for this, but found nothing near that price so far.
So my plan is to measure how long it takes to fill a 1L bag with CO2, calculate my grow space in cubic decimeters, multiply it with 0.0012 (for a 1200 ppm increase for ex.) to get the needed volume of CO2, then multiply this with the time it takes to fill a 1L bag.
So with numbers,
Time to fill 1L bag = X (guess maybe more than 5 secs if i set the pressure really low - the regulator is for fish tank CO2 supply and can be fine tuned)
Grow space = 8 cubic meters ~= 280 cubic feet
Needed amount of CO2 in liter = grow space * ppm to raise = 8000 * 0.0012 = 9.6
To enrich the room from 300 to 1500 ppm, the valve needs to stay open for 9.6 * X.
Let's say 8 * X to make sure it will stay below 2000 ppm.
Since the room is not sealed, and i might need to leave the door open a bit to keep temps around 93F i should probably repeat this every 2-3 hours. I could maybe exchange the air completely before each cycle to reset to 300 ppm. not sure if this is needed though, since the room is not sealed.
Also dont know what is the max acceptable temp with 1000-1500 ppm CO2.
Please let me know if you see any errors in this - or if you have experience with such things!
Thanks!
If anyone could tell me whether my thinking is correct it would be great. I plan to introduce CO to my garden - but would be nice to know if it's of any use in my situation, and if my plan regarding control can work.
The girls are in soil. I have a small hot place in the attic, temps reach 90F, or go up till maybe 95F - i measured that when the thermometer got direct light, and with door closed. I measured 81-88F at canopy level in shade, and near the vents that circulate inside air. There are 2 HPS for a 12 square feet area with ~90k lumens (7450 lumen/sqfeet). Humidity can reach 60-70 when the lights are off on a rainy day, but the HPSs reduce this to 50 or below usually. Since proper ventillation would cost about as much as a CO2 tank with a solenoid valve i thought it might bring better yield then just fixing ventillation.
Hope this is correct so far.
I could not find a CO2 controller around here for less than a $1000 (there are cheaper 'CO controllers', those only have a timer and maybe a light detector to disable CO2 in the dark, but no actual ppm meter). A few hundred bucks would be fine for this, but found nothing near that price so far.
So my plan is to measure how long it takes to fill a 1L bag with CO2, calculate my grow space in cubic decimeters, multiply it with 0.0012 (for a 1200 ppm increase for ex.) to get the needed volume of CO2, then multiply this with the time it takes to fill a 1L bag.
So with numbers,
Time to fill 1L bag = X (guess maybe more than 5 secs if i set the pressure really low - the regulator is for fish tank CO2 supply and can be fine tuned)
Grow space = 8 cubic meters ~= 280 cubic feet
Needed amount of CO2 in liter = grow space * ppm to raise = 8000 * 0.0012 = 9.6
To enrich the room from 300 to 1500 ppm, the valve needs to stay open for 9.6 * X.
Let's say 8 * X to make sure it will stay below 2000 ppm.
Since the room is not sealed, and i might need to leave the door open a bit to keep temps around 93F i should probably repeat this every 2-3 hours. I could maybe exchange the air completely before each cycle to reset to 300 ppm. not sure if this is needed though, since the room is not sealed.
Also dont know what is the max acceptable temp with 1000-1500 ppm CO2.
Please let me know if you see any errors in this - or if you have experience with such things!
Thanks!