EC and PPM

[CaidenHenson]

So basically I've been experimenting with a DWC system for growing cannabis. This is my first grow this way, and I'm really just trying to learn the majority of it this go around, for my next go around to be much better. But I've been looking into different things as far as nutrients and such within the water of the hydro pod, so in this thread I'll have a multitude of questions, please answer any that you may have knowledge on.

Currently I have been using some liquid "CaliGrow" a two part solutions for nutrients. This has seemed to do well but the only issue I'm finding is when following the chart, as far as how much to add. For example, I am in the early vegetative stage, on the back of the bottle is calls for 4mg of each part, per gallon. I'm holding about 4 gallons in my hydropod so I add 16mg of each solution. But when I measure the nutrient level as far as "PPM" I only get about 200 and from my research (on google) I've found that this needs to be closer to 400-500 PPM. So with that, should I be following the guide on the solutions or should I be more than doubling it to get to where Google says I should be?

Second question,
I recently noticed an outbreak of Spider Mites (I'm still in very early vegetative stage) I got this plant as a clone from my local dispo, and let them know that I've found these mites. But anyways, I started using "Crop Defender 3" as of yesterday, I soaked the plant and today, with my microscope, I was not able to find any live bugs, I hope this has worked but has anyone else had experience with this product? I used it over other as it has great review, experience and not damaging the end product, as it's organic.?.?. So far so good but again, it's only been a day. I cut most of the leaves that were affected to easily notice if the issue comes back but that leads me to my next question.

Third Question,
As far as growing all together, I'm pretty new to it. My grandpa never smoked a day in his life but he grew some of the best bud I've ever seen or experienced. I wish I could've learned more before he past, but that doesn't mean I won't learn like he had to.
What is the best way to groom a weed plant? So far I've been getting rid of the bigger fan leaves in hopes to focus the plants energy on growing the entirety of the plant. This so far has seemed to do well but definitely keeps the plant looking pretty "bald" I'm not to sure if this is actually healthy for the plant so any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Lastly,
I have been in the HVAC industry for a long time, to the point were I now own a pretty successful business. I have put my skills to test here and have designed my own "grow tent" to achieve the perfect atmosphere for growing a weed plant, in hopes to achieve the perfect environment, considering the hydroponic system within a grow temp with a stable atmosphere. I have done a bunch of research on the internet as far as, "what is the best temperature?" "What is the best humidity level?" "Should I keep the airflow in the entire tent current of should I have it directly pointed at the plant?" "Do I need absolutely darkness within the hydropod itself?" "What level of water do I need in the hydropod? Right at the bottom of the Rockwood? Or at the bottom of the volcanic balls?" I've found many answers for these questions but I've also found many answers that contradict the others. So please share your knowledge on these.

For all of these questions I'm needing to know what the difference would be during the different stages; early veg, late veg, flowering.
I really do appreciate anyone that has taken the time to read through my novel hear as I just haven't found the right answers anywhere else, I even more appreciate those who can give some insight.

 

[Sativa1970]

First off the best way to get help is start a journal. Give as much detail in the title and intro as possible. I think the only key detail I am missing is strain. If you start a journal you can tag people in with @ fallowed by user name. Feel free to tag me if you start one.

EC is a universal value but PPM has 3 different scales so readings will vary. If I place three of my meters in one res I get 1600PPM-650PPM and 250PPM readings from them. The number is not as important as noting the change in the number over time. The second thing is that water has a base PPM before you start adding nutrient. Distilled is near zero but tap water can be up to 800PPM. So adding 200PPM of nutrient to a different starting value changes everything. Good water is important because there is a maximum mineral saturation so high PPM water holds less food. In short fallow the feed schedule and use the meter to note changes.

Spider mites are a pain. Currently dealing with them. Drop the temp to low 70s with 50RH will help control them. Treat the plant focusing on the under side of leaves every 3 days to break there life cycle. Several essential oils work, personally I like rosemary. Neem oil is fine in veg but not in flower. Clean all of your surfaces with hot soapy water as part of the treatment.

Right and wrong way to prune is a debated topic here. The strain, grow technique, and lights are the key factors. Smaller lights require you remove or better yet tuck the fan leaves to get light down into the plant. Any part of the plant that is not getting light is not contributing. Keep in mind that leaves produce sugars with light but they also store sugars and minerals. Removing leaves and branches may increase productivity but at the cost of the plants reserves.

General contractor for over 25 years, and a lot of my family were/are horticulturists so can relate. Growing for 40 years but only got back into hydro around 8 years ago. This is a plant found on most of the globe. The perfect environment for one plant is not perfect for others. This is where lumping all strains together gets you conflicting answers. Not to mention from veg to flower you are creating different seasons in said location. Most all plants are going to be happy somewhere from 70 to 90 deg and 20% to 65% RH. A northern ruderalis strain in my equatorial room would live, but not thrive.
As for general DWC. The water should be just below the net. The bubbler should mist the net enough to keep the roots moist untill they drop down into the water. Once they are in the water the basket should be around a half inch from the surface. Roots take in O2 so don't drown them and the air in the water keeps bacteria from growing. No biological additives, just sterile nutes.
You start with gentle light higher temp(85deg) and RH (80) for sprouts. Increase the light lowering temp (78) and RH(40) for veg. Run 18 hour days in veg and 12 hour days in flower. Flower gets lower RH(30) and temp (75). The () are a rough guide.

I am sure I missed some of your questions but just ask again on here I will try to answer them.

 

[CaidenHenson]

First off the best way to get help is start a journal. Give as much detail in the title and intro as possible. I think the only key detail I am missing is strain. If you start a journal you can tag people in with @ fallowed by user name. Feel free to tag me if you start one.

EC is a universal value but PPM has 3 different scales so readings will vary. If I place three of my meters in one res I get 1600PPM-650PPM and 250PPM readings from them. The number is not as important as noting the change in the number over time. The second thing is that water has a base PPM before you start adding nutrient. Distilled is near zero but tap water can be up to 800PPM. So adding 200PPM of nutrient to a different starting value changes everything. Good water is important because there is a maximum mineral saturation so high PPM water holds less food. In short fallow the feed schedule and use the meter to note changes.

Spider mites are a pain. Currently dealing with them. Drop the temp to low 70s with 50RH will help control them. Treat the plant focusing on the under side of leaves every 3 days to break there life cycle. Several essential oils work, personally I like rosemary. Neem oil is fine in veg but not in flower. Clean all of your surfaces with hot soapy water as part of the treatment.

Right and wrong way to prune is a debated topic here. The strain, grow technique, and lights are the key factors. Smaller lights require you remove or better yet tuck the fan leaves to get light down into the plant. Any part of the plant that is not getting light is not contributing. Keep in mind that leaves produce sugars with light but they also store sugars and minerals. Removing leaves and branches may increase productivity but at the cost of the plants reserves.

General contractor for over 25 years, and a lot of my family were/are horticulturists so can relate. Growing for 40 years but only got back into hydro around 8 years ago. This is a plant found on most of the globe. The perfect environment for one plant is not perfect for others. This is where lumping all strains together gets you conflicting answers. Not to mention from veg to flower you are creating different seasons in said location. Most all plants are going to be happy somewhere from 70 to 90 deg and 20% to 65% RH. A northern ruderalis strain in my equatorial room would live, but not thrive.
As for general DWC. The water should be just below the net. The bubbler should mist the net enough to keep the roots moist untill they drop down into the water. Once they are in the water the basket should be around a half inch from the surface. Roots take in O2 so don't drown them and the air in the water keeps bacteria from growing. No biological additives, just sterile nutes.
You start with gentle light higher temp(85deg) and RH (80) for sprouts. Increase the light lowering temp (78) and RH(40) for veg. Run 18 hour days in veg and 12 hour days in flower. Flower gets lower RH(30) and temp (75). The () are a rough guide.

I am sure I missed some of your questions but just ask again on here I will try to answer them.

I really appreciate your feedback man. I'll definitely take all this account. I got it set up in a grow tent now so it'll be a but easier to manage the atmosphere

 

[Sativa1970]

What strain are you growing or is it unknown?

 

[CaidenHenson]

It's unknown. Although I could most likely find out. I got it as a clone from my local dispensary

 

[Sativa1970]

It being a clone means it is a photo type plant. You have to change the light schedule to induce flower whenever you and the plant are ready. Most dispensary's lean toward Indica heavy hybrids. These are faster, smaller and easier to grow because they tolerate a wide grow environment range. Sativa are tropical and Indica are temperate zone plants. Sativa is a heady high and Indica is a body high. The width of the leaf fingers show the mix.

This is a 40% indica 60% sativa Jack Herer leaf.

In comparison this is pure sativa Panama red leaf.