JustinHemp420
Well-Known Member
I have a question....can I ground it from the frame straight to the ground of the supply cord?
Fanleaf's Huge 42 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds
- Thread starter fanleaf
- Start date
Buckshot317
Plant of the Month: Mar 2018
That's easy also. Just take your 2 hot(browns) from driver, wago them together to one wire from the display. Same with the neutrals(blue). Brown and blue on drivers if using meanwell's.
The displays are good for 20 amps, you could put all your drivers on one plug. If your going to use more than one driver together you might have to bump up wire size. Like 16awg for 2 drivers.
Once you get going putting yours together it will start clicking a little better. I've been lucky, been doing electrical work for 25 years
Buckshot317
Plant of the Month: Mar 2018
Yes, I have a ground block in my control box that I use to tie all my grounds together
BedroomFarmer
Well-Known Member
I think im getting more confused lol. If i understand correctly im going to daisy chain the 2 drivers together from the A/C side, then i just take some wire and put the wire into the monitor and the 3rd slot of the wago? Would i need a wago with 4 openings? My wagos are only 3 so its only enough room for two drivers and the A/C plug.
Man i was going to go 18 but after fanleafs post i got the solid 20 awg that he linked to from ebay. Am i going to have to make a return?? Hope its not an issue
Im thinking the monitors wont work with my wagos so ill just go with killawatt. How about adding an on/off switch to power two drivers?
Will an inline rocker switch work that i install on the a/c plug. I would prefer a toggle switch but the wiring is over my head. I also dont want to buy different wagos i already have 8 of the 3 slot wagos.
Buckshot317
Plant of the Month: Mar 2018
Ok, when I get off, I'll draw you another pic. Using 2 drivers and the 3 port wagos. Under the 3 port wago, you will have 2 wires from driver and 1 wire to meter( this will be done twice, for hot and neutral). Your rocker switch will be cut in on other side of meter( on plug side).
I'll draw you new pic with switch and 2 drivers.
I'll draw you new pic with switch and 2 drivers.
BedroomFarmer
Well-Known Member
Hey buck! Your the man! Thanks so much for all the help! Cant wait for the drawing. Im a little confused as to where the wiring for the plug goes. So its two drivers positive and a wire from the meter in one wago and two drivers negative and a wire from the meter in another wago but how do i power the drivers?
Glad the inline rocker switch will do, is there anything i should look for specifically? I see a lot that are made for like a table lamp. Dont think those will do.
Glad the inline rocker switch will do, is there anything i should look for specifically? I see a lot that are made for like a table lamp. Dont think those will do.
Buckshot317
Plant of the Month: Mar 2018
Sorry bedroom farmer, had to work a double yesterday. Here's another drawing, with rocker switch and 2 drivers. The 3 port wagos will be perfect, I'll pm you pic of rockers I found on the zon, qty of 15 for $6, and they are rated for up to 10 amps. I just ordered a pack myself.
Buckshot317
Plant of the Month: Mar 2018
I didn't draw the ground in the diagram, but it should go straight from plug to your drivers, wire nut or wago together.
BedroomFarmer
Well-Known Member
Sorry bedroom farmer, had to work a double yesterday. Here's another drawing, with rocker switch and 2 drivers. The 3 port wagos will be perfect, I'll pm you pic of rockers I found on the zon, qty of 15 for $6, and they are rated for up to 10 amps. I just ordered a pack myself.
Hey man no worries, life and such but thank you so much for the drawing! That helps tremendously! My wife is an art teacher and i showed her your panel filled with wires and she lost all confidence in me. After showing her the picture you made and explaining it even she understood and says to say thank you because im a visual leaner. I honestly would have not figured that out if you didnt draw it up exactly like that. Hope you had a good shift even though it was a double.
I will ground to the control box. I have to look up those posts you use. I will solder everything else that wont have wagos.
Thanks again buck!
Buckshot317
Plant of the Month: Mar 2018
No problem, I tried to draw it simpler this time. It's real easy after you get more familiar with.
ClobberWatts
Well-Known Member
Fanleaf,
Didn't know where to post this but... Been out of the growing scene for about a year and a half now. House fire. Anyways, wanted to get into LED's about a year before that if I remember the dates right, but it was confusing even then the fight over blurples and other things.
So, for the last few months excluding June though trying to take care of selling my house. I've been studying your grows, these pages, growmau5's, graytail's, the jimmy's on here, greengene, and a lot of other people's builds new and old who I am forgetting names of trying to get back in the game with full led's even though I have about a half dozen hps's laying around. I have read every page on this thread and others. Copy and pasted to a journal for me to study later cuz my internet was eratic, hope you don't mind.
I decided I wanted to follow your lead. When I finally got to that, you started talking about the gen 7 vero's and even built a couple, and I started to get confused again. The unfortunate incident happened with your family, and I'm so sorry for that. I know we do not know each other, but after reading so much by you and how much you help others, I feel for you man. Hope I'm not being too cheezy. I hope everything is going ok with the fam.
While you were gone. I started listening to others talk about the vero's and thought because of the talk, that maybe that was the way to go. What I'm trying to build is a doppleganger of your 25 cob setup in a 53" x 53" area. Hearing the debate over vero's and cree's I decided I was going to do a side by side setup of one of each. That's when I realized the heat output of the vero's, that there was no way I could do that. The heat output would not be a fair comparison to the cree's. That's when I started to go back to just the cree's. I am just like you. I want it to be as efficient as you, and I do not care about the start up costs. I'm going to start with two of these setups, and here is where my questions start and will probably never end.
If you rebuilt your 25 cob cree setup from start now, would you do it exactly the same now? And if not or if so, what would you change about it. What would you add/remove? Also, I can't find a journal on you building it. Other than the cob's, do you have a parts list for it?
This is where I am also getting confused on drivers. If you have 36v chips running @ 1.4amps, that's 50.4 watts. What we are looking for on the chips... So that's 6 chips running 302.4watts on an HLG-320H-c1400. What I'm confused on, is the leftover 18.2watts is where the driver becomes inefficient? Or is that where we can push the wattage on the chips a little higher? I don't understand which part makes the driver inefficient to the chip, and how to get the numbers of what the chip can take from that driver. According to my idiotic math, those chips would max out at 53.4watts on that driver. Like if I put 3 chips on a 185, I have like 30 watts left over... right? Why is that bad just because I am not using them? If it's the volts on a driver left over that make it inefficient... why? I also Have some layouts if you would like to talk about it and I'll post them on here. I would just start a journal on here, but do not have enough posts yet to get that far. Will probably start a blog though just copying what I show you here.
Thanks for the input from you or any of the other guys/gals around here.
Didn't know where to post this but... Been out of the growing scene for about a year and a half now. House fire. Anyways, wanted to get into LED's about a year before that if I remember the dates right, but it was confusing even then the fight over blurples and other things.
So, for the last few months excluding June though trying to take care of selling my house. I've been studying your grows, these pages, growmau5's, graytail's, the jimmy's on here, greengene, and a lot of other people's builds new and old who I am forgetting names of trying to get back in the game with full led's even though I have about a half dozen hps's laying around. I have read every page on this thread and others. Copy and pasted to a journal for me to study later cuz my internet was eratic, hope you don't mind.
I decided I wanted to follow your lead. When I finally got to that, you started talking about the gen 7 vero's and even built a couple, and I started to get confused again. The unfortunate incident happened with your family, and I'm so sorry for that. I know we do not know each other, but after reading so much by you and how much you help others, I feel for you man. Hope I'm not being too cheezy. I hope everything is going ok with the fam.
While you were gone. I started listening to others talk about the vero's and thought because of the talk, that maybe that was the way to go. What I'm trying to build is a doppleganger of your 25 cob setup in a 53" x 53" area. Hearing the debate over vero's and cree's I decided I was going to do a side by side setup of one of each. That's when I realized the heat output of the vero's, that there was no way I could do that. The heat output would not be a fair comparison to the cree's. That's when I started to go back to just the cree's. I am just like you. I want it to be as efficient as you, and I do not care about the start up costs. I'm going to start with two of these setups, and here is where my questions start and will probably never end.
If you rebuilt your 25 cob cree setup from start now, would you do it exactly the same now? And if not or if so, what would you change about it. What would you add/remove? Also, I can't find a journal on you building it. Other than the cob's, do you have a parts list for it?
This is where I am also getting confused on drivers. If you have 36v chips running @ 1.4amps, that's 50.4 watts. What we are looking for on the chips... So that's 6 chips running 302.4watts on an HLG-320H-c1400. What I'm confused on, is the leftover 18.2watts is where the driver becomes inefficient? Or is that where we can push the wattage on the chips a little higher? I don't understand which part makes the driver inefficient to the chip, and how to get the numbers of what the chip can take from that driver. According to my idiotic math, those chips would max out at 53.4watts on that driver. Like if I put 3 chips on a 185, I have like 30 watts left over... right? Why is that bad just because I am not using them? If it's the volts on a driver left over that make it inefficient... why? I also Have some layouts if you would like to talk about it and I'll post them on here. I would just start a journal on here, but do not have enough posts yet to get that far. Will probably start a blog though just copying what I show you here.
Thanks for the input from you or any of the other guys/gals around here.
Hello everyone.
Getting very close to the start of my next project. Building a 42 cob cxb3590 superpanel. Going in a Mars Hydro 8X8 tent and lighting 6X8' of the tent. Yup, just about 1 cob per square foot of lighting area.
This will be pushed by 6 Meanwell HLG-320H-C1400B drivers.
The light will consist of 12 CXB 3590's in 5000k and 30 CXB3590's in 3000k.
All dimmable from 0 watts to 1950 watts from the wall and the 5k and 3k being independently dimmable so in veg I can run higher blue and in flower I can run higher red and anywhere in between. This big light when finished will, at medium drive be capable of 60%+ efficient.
Waiting on my cob chips and more heatsinks to come in and Ill start building the aluminum frame. Im not sure on my frame design yet but it will either be 2 piece or 4 piece.
Each row of COBs will be dimmable and each row will have its own wattage meter built into the system.
Lets have fun.
Sent from my android from outer space!
WOW! I (somehow) never noticed this thread until now. You sure have come a long way from:
Hello from Michigan - New here and sayin' Hi!
My First Grow!
...and in a relatively short period of time, too. Congratulations - and thank you for sharing what you have learned / are learning.
I don't think fanleaf checks in, so I'll fill in some of it for you and Buckshot will probably pipe up too. (BTW, welcome to posting on 420, 
)
On a Mean Well HLG driver, the "leftover" is voltage. They're both constant current and constant voltage drivers. Look at the difference in the numbers when you vary the current. A 1050ma driver will deliver less voltage than a 700ma driver. And a 185H delivers more total current (wattage) than a 120H, when they're both 1050ma.
Or for instance, you could use individual constant current drivers instead, which will deliver voltage in a range (say 25v - 56v) at a fixed amperage of say 700ma.
But I've looked at everything, and unless you want to try to squeeze the last dollar out of your cost, the Mean Wells are very hard to beat. And in your example, those few volts you don't use aren't significant. If you were leaving 100 volts on the table it might make sense to use them up, but those 18 aren't a big deal at all. I'm designing a Sunboard build that leaves 70+ available and that's a little annoying but there are maximum voltage restrictions on the connectors. I can work around it, but it would only save me less than $50 tops - not worth it.
Don't think of the driver in watts - amperage is fixed - voltage is the limiting factor. Back several pages, fanleaf went into some detail. If you try to overdrive voltage, the driver won't deliver the full amperage it's rated for.
In sum, don't sweat the 18 volts - that's typical, and actually pretty small.
BTW, there are boards available now, based on an extremely efficient Samsung chip, 304 of them on a 7x12 inch board, running in the 180-200 Lu/W range, at 1/4 watt per diode. $10 heatsinks, no holders ... nice nice, very nice. And they can be had at roughly the same price per watt as the big hot COB clusters. But they run over 100 volts and the connector is limited to 300 volts, so you can only run two in series, so the driver cost is a little higher.
QB304 Board Guide - Horticulture Lighting Group
)On a Mean Well HLG driver, the "leftover" is voltage. They're both constant current and constant voltage drivers. Look at the difference in the numbers when you vary the current. A 1050ma driver will deliver less voltage than a 700ma driver. And a 185H delivers more total current (wattage) than a 120H, when they're both 1050ma.
Or for instance, you could use individual constant current drivers instead, which will deliver voltage in a range (say 25v - 56v) at a fixed amperage of say 700ma.
But I've looked at everything, and unless you want to try to squeeze the last dollar out of your cost, the Mean Wells are very hard to beat. And in your example, those few volts you don't use aren't significant. If you were leaving 100 volts on the table it might make sense to use them up, but those 18 aren't a big deal at all. I'm designing a Sunboard build that leaves 70+ available and that's a little annoying but there are maximum voltage restrictions on the connectors. I can work around it, but it would only save me less than $50 tops - not worth it.
Don't think of the driver in watts - amperage is fixed - voltage is the limiting factor. Back several pages, fanleaf went into some detail. If you try to overdrive voltage, the driver won't deliver the full amperage it's rated for.
In sum, don't sweat the 18 volts - that's typical, and actually pretty small.
BTW, there are boards available now, based on an extremely efficient Samsung chip, 304 of them on a 7x12 inch board, running in the 180-200 Lu/W range, at 1/4 watt per diode.
$10 heatsinks, no holders ... nice nice, very nice. And they can be had at roughly the same price per watt as the big hot COB clusters. But they run over 100 volts and the connector is limited to 300 volts, so you can only run two in series, so the driver cost is a little higher.QB304 Board Guide - Horticulture Lighting Group
Looks like he visited the forum as recently as the 29th of June.
ClobberWatts
Well-Known Member
Hey, Graytail. Thanks for being an awesome guy. The only posts I see from you on here is just to help other people.
I knew it was the volts. Just bugs me that I do not know what to do with the extra's. That post of Fanleaf's totally helped out understanding, but it still just bugs. I get so anal about trying to make everything so perfect that I end up fucking it up.
I'm reposting for others the info just cuz it is hard to dig through 156 pages to find answers. Trust me.
"HLG 185 series Drivers
1050mA model
Cree 3-5 chips
Vero 29SE 3-5 chips
1400mA model
Cree 2-4 chips
Vero 29SE 2-3 chips
HLG 240 series drivers
1050mA model
Cree 4-7 chips
Vero 29SE 4-6 chips
1400mA model
Cree 3-5 chips
Vero 29 SE 3-4 chips
1750mA model
Cree 2-4 chips
Vero 29SE 2-3 chips
2100mA model
Cree 2-3 chips
Vero 29SE 2-3 chips
HLG 320 series drivers
1050mA model
Cree 4-9 chips
Vero 29SE 4-8 chips
1400mA model
Cree 4-6 chips
Vero 29SE 4-6 chips
1750mA model
Cree 3-5 chips
Vero 29SE 3-4 chips*****very close to 5. It came to 4.95 chips*****
2100mA model
Cree 3-4 chips
Vero 29SE 3-4 chips
This will keep everything within specs!
If people want I can also include Citi's"
I knew it was the volts. Just bugs me that I do not know what to do with the extra's. That post of Fanleaf's totally helped out understanding, but it still just bugs. I get so anal about trying to make everything so perfect that I end up fucking it up.
I'm reposting for others the info just cuz it is hard to dig through 156 pages to find answers. Trust me.
"HLG 185 series Drivers
1050mA model
Cree 3-5 chips
Vero 29SE 3-5 chips
1400mA model
Cree 2-4 chips
Vero 29SE 2-3 chips
HLG 240 series drivers
1050mA model
Cree 4-7 chips
Vero 29SE 4-6 chips
1400mA model
Cree 3-5 chips
Vero 29 SE 3-4 chips
1750mA model
Cree 2-4 chips
Vero 29SE 2-3 chips
2100mA model
Cree 2-3 chips
Vero 29SE 2-3 chips
HLG 320 series drivers
1050mA model
Cree 4-9 chips
Vero 29SE 4-8 chips
1400mA model
Cree 4-6 chips
Vero 29SE 4-6 chips
1750mA model
Cree 3-5 chips
Vero 29SE 3-4 chips*****very close to 5. It came to 4.95 chips*****
2100mA model
Cree 3-4 chips
Vero 29SE 3-4 chips
This will keep everything within specs!
If people want I can also include Citi's"
ClobberWatts
Well-Known Member
I feel like a kid on christmas eve. Only my christmas eve is taking a lot longer than I want. I'm looking at 30 days at least just to even start ordering parts. Totally sucks.
Just got done talking to Dave from 80/20 and my design for my diy tent will work for 3030 and I got the design down to about $650. I'm trying to get the framing worked out for the lights, cuz I also want that built out of that aluminum. Rapidled was totally cool and gave me the dimensions on their brackets, but I can't find the right rails to fit them in. I need to talk to them again if they would sale me their rails in custom sizes.
The other thing I'm missing is... does anyone know if I can get grow tent material in panels? I don't know if I'll get in trouble for posting this link. I want their walls and they are not responding to my question.
Reworking the Cannabis Grow Rooms! - YouTube
Just got done talking to Dave from 80/20 and my design for my diy tent will work for 3030 and I got the design down to about $650. I'm trying to get the framing worked out for the lights, cuz I also want that built out of that aluminum. Rapidled was totally cool and gave me the dimensions on their brackets, but I can't find the right rails to fit them in. I need to talk to them again if they would sale me their rails in custom sizes.
The other thing I'm missing is... does anyone know if I can get grow tent material in panels? I don't know if I'll get in trouble for posting this link. I want their walls and they are not responding to my question.
Reworking the Cannabis Grow Rooms! - YouTube
Buckshot317
Plant of the Month: Mar 2018
I talke to Mike few times from rapid, I was wanting their rails in 54 or 60 inches. They said the couldn't at the moment, he said they were custom made at 47".
I saw the panels somewhere online, but the cost was outrageous, in the thousands.
Just want to make sure you have a bolt or 2 left over. You'll cut yourself way short if you try to squeeze an extra one. I'm about to put 18 veros on 2 hlg480's. I got half done now
This frame is 54"x60"
I saw the panels somewhere online, but the cost was outrageous, in the thousands.
Just want to make sure you have a bolt or 2 left over. You'll cut yourself way short if you try to squeeze an extra one. I'm about to put 18 veros on 2 hlg480's. I got half done now
ClobberWatts
Well-Known Member
I talke to Mike few times from rapid, I was wanting their rails in 54 or 60 inches. They said the couldn't at the moment, he said they were custom made at 47".
I saw the panels somewhere online, but the cost was outrageous, in the thousands.
Just want to make sure you have a bolt or 2 left over. You'll cut yourself way short if you try to squeeze an extra one. I'm about to put 18 veros on 2 hlg480's. I got half done nowThis frame is 54"x60"
Well, 47.5. Don't mean to be a jerk, but I am. Just messing. See, now that setup scares me. That is balls out. I'm too afraid of going with those panels. I'm looking at putting in 5 grand just for my initial 4x8 setup. Well 4.5 x 8.5 in the end. Argh. We are getting our panels crossed. Seriously, in the thousands? So, probably just better off buying this... Blackout Canvas Grow Tent Material - HTG Supply and bolting it to the outside of my frame pulled tight.
K. Back to your stuff. Are you going to put a couple more panels on the outer edges? I'm curious to see what your ppf readings are with that layout. My first post on here was joking about making that kind of setup with some cree's on the outer edges. Pretty freaking cool man.
Buckshot317
Plant of the Month: Mar 2018
I have 18 cobs that are going with the boards. I'll use the boards for veg, then turn on the cobs to flower.
The crazy expensive panels were some sort of Mobil grow room. It showed whole grow room with 4x8 ft panels that lock together, make your room as big as you want. But it's more for commercial spaces. You can get the Mylar from htg, and use spray adhesive on 4x8 sheets of 2" hard board insulation. That would be cheap and easy to work with. I bought some panda film from them, good place to get supplies, quick shipping, next day.
The crazy expensive panels were some sort of Mobil grow room. It showed whole grow room with 4x8 ft panels that lock together, make your room as big as you want. But it's more for commercial spaces. You can get the Mylar from htg, and use spray adhesive on 4x8 sheets of 2" hard board insulation. That would be cheap and easy to work with. I bought some panda film from them, good place to get supplies, quick shipping, next day.
Buckshot317
Plant of the Month: Mar 2018
Here's a simple drawing of frame with cobs
My ppfd should be way over 1000, that way I can add co2 down the road.
My ppfd should be way over 1000, that way I can add co2 down the road.
