First grow, need box help

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dankdragon26

New Member
i will be growing for the first time around the first of the new month, i would really like to know if anyone has plans for a semi cheap stealth grow box build?? i have found several online with plans, but they do not exactly fit what i am looking for.

ideally there would be enough room for one MAYBE two plants, and a small area for curing. any help on lighting, air circ, and detailed layout would be greatly appreciated
 
All I can do is show you a simple setup I did and hope to inspire you. :welcome: to :420: sir btw.

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Now its got 12-- 26w cfls for 312 watts.
 
It was a cheap 3 foot book case. All I had to do was build a door and provide intake/exhaust. The bookcase had shelves (obv) and convientent pin holes the raise the shelf. Im really ripped :) but Ill try to tell you what I did.
Bought bookshelf. Measured door deminsions. Went to sLowes and bought lumbar and hinges.
Cut intake to fit a old PC fan blowing in. Cut exhaust at the top to accomidate fan size. Took one of the bookshelves and cut a hole for wiring and another pc fan. Took old cell phone charger and wired in PC fans. Bought a 2 power strips and extension cord. Bought alot of "y"s and the plug in converters to plug in regular bulbs.
I apoligize but I can answer you better tomorrow. I may have some better pics too. Just post here tomorrow if you dont get any help and Ill see it and follow up. :peace:
 
thank you for the info Spimp, i should be able to use this to my advantage, it may actually turn out better than my first box attempt (old trashed surround sound bass speaker) i will repost tomorrow and see if you are a little less ripped lol. maybe we can get a collaboration going on this build, and i can post pics and step by step as i build it from your memory, that is if you dont mind
 
i have the basic materials and tools required and a barney style set of instructions typed out that i came up with based on the info you gave me. i will post it later if you would like to see it..... keep in mind it is a rough draft and i just typed how i would do it with the given materials
 
SPIMP, the original has the materials and tools in a 2x20 cell table. but i could not get it to paste right so i just edited it for easy view on here. please let me know if i forgot anything (materials or steps) i tried to barney style this set of instructions


BOOKSHELF GROW BOX

AS DONE BY SPIMP

(M) MATERIALS
(T) TOOLS

(T)Drill bit set
(T)Hammer
(T)hole saw set
(T)Tape maeasure
(T)Jig saw (optional)
(T)Circular saw (recommended)
(T)screwdriver

(M)2-3 cans FLAT white spray paint (if bookshelf isn't white)
(M)Hinges (for door)
(M)3 power strips
(M)12 CFL bulbs (26W)
(M)2 PC fans
(M)cheap bookshelf (preferably white)
(M)6 outlet to bulb adapters
(M)6 “Y” two bulb adapters
(M)Electrical tape
(M)1 piece 1/4” pressed fiberboard
(M)Duct tape (chrome/ reflective silver)
(M)Hinged style lock (optional)
(M)Padlock (optional)
(M)Timer (for lights)
(M)1 OR 2 Cell phone charger(s) (for pc fan power)
(M)1/2”-3/4” screws
(M)Caulk (for light/smell proofing)
(M)Weather stripping with adhesive backing (for light/smell proofing)
(M)4-8 Long zip ties (depending on length you can find)
(M)Small diameter wire (various lengths, same size as Pc fan wiring) (if using one cell phone charger)
(M)Dryer vent deflector (little silver guide for hot air)

Additional stuff: pot(s) for planting, preferred planting medium, seeds, nutrients,



CONSTRUCTION

1) purchase all or your materials and gather your tools in an area where you can work on the cabinet with minimal interference
2) begin by assembling the bookshelf casing (sides, top, bottom, and back)
3) spray paint white (if bookshelf is not already white)
4) apply caulk to all corners of the bookshelf (this helps to light/smell proof your cabinet)
5) insert pegs for one shelf above where you want your lights to be (you can move the shelf up as your plants grow)
6) take ONE shelf and find the center of it using tape measure
7) mark the center and using the hole saw that corresponds to the size of your fan, cut out the exhaust fan port
8) mount exhaust fan using screws
9) place one power strip on either side of the exhaust fan
10) mark 4 points around each power strip and set power strips aside
11) drill a 1/4” hole (with drill bit) at each of the 8 marked points
12) place each power strip back in its place on the shelf BOTTOM and zip tie in place
13) on the bottom of the right side panel (as you look at cabinet) 2' from bottom panel and centered front to rear, use the hole saw that corresponds to your intake fan diameter and drill the hole.
14) Mount intake fan with screws
15) install dryer vent deflector over INSIDE of intake fan (this acts as a light barrier so your intake fan does not give away your cabinet)
16) pick your wiring for fans A) ONE CELL PHONE CHARGER: wire the intake and exhaust fans together (matching colors) using lengths of spare wire duct taped up the side of the box and connect phone charger to fan assembly B) TWO CELL PHONE CHARGERS: wire one cell phone charger to each fan (red to red, black to black for intake AND red to black, black to red for exhaust) this reverses polarity causing the exhaust fan to expell air instead of drawing it in
17) measure opening for door size and cut the fiberboard to the correct size
18) install hinges to the door and test fit
19) apply adhesive backed weather stripping around the perimeter of the door
20) close door and install hinged type lock ensuring proper fit and placement
21) connect the 6 “Y” adapters to the plug to bulb adapters
22) insert 1 CFL bulb into each side of the “Y” adapters
23) plug the bulb assemblies into the power strips
24) plug cabinet power supplies into third power strip
25) plug third power strip into the timer
26) plug the timer into the wall
27) test all electric components with door open
28) if everything works correctly, close the door and verify that little to no light escapes the cabinet

CONGRATULATIONS
YOU HAVE A GROW CABINET

TIP: you can also add a carbon scrubber to your exhaust fan to minimize smells from your growing op
 
Damn. That sums it up pretty damn well. Although My build was much more spuratic and stressful. :rofl:

Couple things I saw-- Ive read multiple places flt white is more reflective than gloss. Also I believe you wire the colors opposite to PCfans. It affects which way they blow so it will be an easy fix.

Im by no means an electrician, so do what you do at your own risk sir. :) But it looks pretty good to me. :high-five:
 
i specialized in small automotive electronics, while you are correct in the polarity reversal, you can accomplish the same effect based entirely on how/ where you mount the fan. either method is just as effective, but i do thank you for reminding me about that as i forgot at 5 am this morning when i typed it lol.... probably a good time for me to have been baked lol

as for the flat white paint, i will correct that. i wasnt positive so i went with my gut
 
Heres my stealth freezer :)

Old freezer with the guts ripped out..............................cost:- Nothing free from refuse tip
2x LED panels 15 watt on the back wall, 45 watt on roof.......... £40 (ebay)
Bathroom extractor fan sucking air in thru the bottom.............. £8
Thermo controller...............................................................£7 (ebay from China!)
Wire and switches..............................................................£15 (Maplins)
Heater.............................................................................£11 (ebay)
Passive out take air hole behind the back LED board.
Thermo controller regulates the heat inside the freezer. The 2 LED boards throw out heat which levels off inside the freezer at about 38 deg c (100 deg F). I keep the Thermo controller set at about 30 degrees, soon as the temp exceeds that the bathroom extractor kicks in and sucks cool air in from the bottom pushing out the hot air thru the hole behind one of the LED panels. This also replaces all the 'stale air'. The fan kicks in about 3 times an hour.
When the lights go out (especially in cold winter) the freezer literally goes back to being a freezer so the heater kicks in when temp drops below 25 deg to keep my girls cosy.

fridge_2.JPG



fridge_3.JPG



Couple of AK Auto Goxuak in the pics, unfortunately I didnt do my homework on these and they grew 4 inches too big for the freezer, so they are finishing off in my main cabinet atm. I just started another grow in the freezer, a couple of Himalaya Blue Diesel which should fit nicely :)

I have plans in my head to convert a full size fridge freezer into a stealth cab big enough to fit a couple of 1 meter tall plants, I just gotta find the right fridge freezer to do it :)

Hope ive given you more ideas :)
 
Heres my stealth freezer :)

Old freezer with the guts ripped out..............................cost:- Nothing free from refuse tip
2x LED panels 15 watt on the back wall, 45 watt on roof.......... £40 (ebay)
Bathroom extractor fan sucking air in thru the bottom.............. £8
Thermo controller...............................................................£7 (ebay from China!)
Wire and switches..............................................................£15 (Maplins)
Heater.............................................................................£11 (ebay)
Passive out take air hole behind the back LED board.
Thermo controller regulates the heat inside the freezer. The 2 LED boards throw out heat which levels off inside the freezer at about 38 deg c (100 deg F). I keep the Thermo controller set at about 30 degrees, soon as the temp exceeds that the bathroom extractor kicks in and sucks cool air in from the bottom pushing out the hot air thru the hole behind one of the LED panels. This also replaces all the 'stale air'. The fan kicks in about 3 times an hour.
When the lights go out (especially in cold winter) the freezer literally goes back to being a freezer so the heater kicks in when temp drops below 25 deg to keep my girls cosy.

fridge_2.JPG



fridge_3.JPG



Couple of AK Auto Goxuak in the pics, unfortunately I didnt do my homework on these and they grew 4 inches too big for the freezer, so they are finishing off in my main cabinet atm. I just started another grow in the freezer, a couple of Himalaya Blue Diesel which should fit nicely :)

I have plans in my head to convert a full size fridge freezer into a stealth cab big enough to fit a couple of 1 meter tall plants, I just gotta find the right fridge freezer to do it :)

Hope ive given you more ideas :)


for your fridge/ freezer grow, you should gut a side by side.... that will give you a flowering side and a side you could "half" for clones and seedlings/veg
 
for your fridge/ freezer grow, you should gut a side by side.... that will give you a flowering side and a side you could "half" for clones and seedlings/veg

I was thinking the same to begin with, using fridge for flowering and freezer for veg or vice versa. But tbh i'm in no hurry to have a continual production line of plants so instead I was going to try find a tall fridge freezer with a large bottom fridge and small top freezer. the top freezer part would hold a carbon filter and fan for odour and heat control.

I will try and do you a couple of exploded diagrams of both my freezer and fridge/freezer project to be when I get chance. :)
 
I am not very good at diagrams so this is the best I could do with a wiring diagram for the stealth fridge.......

fridge_dia.JPG


Hope you can see it and it makes sense.....

The thermostat controller is a very common cheap controller, used for countless different applications. I am certain that our sponsors on 420 forums could find you better controllers. The STC-1000 comes in different varieties, heat and humidity controllers, 12v dc and 240v ac also with different inputs on the back, you just have to be careful which one you need.

With the LED's on and no cooling the inside of the freezer heats up pretty quick, stabilizes at around 38 - 42 deg C.

I run the thermostat at 30 degrees C. with a 2.5 degree difference in temperature. Which means soon as the temp rises to 32.5 deg C. the extractor fan set into the bottom of the freezer kicks in and sucks in cool air from the outside (you can just about see the bathroom extractor between the 2 pots in the picture). Bad point is that it will only cool the freezer to the outside temperature as its sucking air in from the outside. So if you live in a hot climate your going to have trouble keeping the temp down.

The cool air gets sucked in the bottom passively forcing the hot air out through a hole behind the LED panel. You gotta remember not to put the panel right against the back wall or you block the hole. FYI the hole in the back is only 4cm wide! I was thinking about making the hole bigger and maybe even putting a fan in it to help draw out the heat faster but in winter it gets pretty chilly in my shed so didn't want to hack out more of the freezers insulation.

When the lights go out and temp drops below 27.5 degrees the heater kicks in raises it back to 30 deg. In winter the freezer reverts back to being a freezer so needs the heater.

Surprisingly, i have had no real problems with condensation building up inside except for a little on days I water the plants.
With the lights on the heat builds up to the point of kicking in the extractor fan about 3-4 times an hour.
I know 30 deg C seems a bit high for growing but so far the plants seem to be thriving on it and 30 deg seems a good compromise for the amount of time the extractor fan kicks in to cool the freezer which is about 3-4 minutes (depending on outside temp).

I put in the independent switches to turn on and off the fan and heater, Its summer atm so i have the heater turned off all the time until the outside temp starts to drop below 10 deg C

Any questions or comments welcome :)

The Fridge/ freezer project will be similar but quite different to this....
I was going to use 2x 120mm 12v PC fans intake at the bottom, cut thru 2 holes between fridge and freezer with another 2x 120mm 12v fans drawing air up into the freezer section. Carbon filter with inline fan in the freezer section drawing air out in summer or back thru bottom fans in winter to recirculate warm air.

I'll try and knock up another diagram lol :)
 
I am not very good at diagrams so this is the best I could do with a wiring diagram for the stealth fridge.......

fridge_dia.JPG


Hope you can see it and it makes sense.....

The thermostat controller is a very common cheap controller, used for countless different applications. I am certain that our sponsors on 420 forums could find you better controllers. The STC-1000 comes in different varieties, heat and humidity controllers, 12v dc and 240v ac also with different inputs on the back, you just have to be careful which one you need.

With the LED's on and no cooling the inside of the freezer heats up pretty quick, stabilizes at around 38 - 42 deg C.

I run the thermostat at 30 degrees C. with a 2.5 degree difference in temperature. Which means soon as the temp rises to 32.5 deg C. the extractor fan set into the bottom of the freezer kicks in and sucks in cool air from the outside (you can just about see the bathroom extractor between the 2 pots in the picture). Bad point is that it will only cool the freezer to the outside temperature as its sucking air in from the outside. So if you live in a hot climate your going to have trouble keeping the temp down.

The cool air gets sucked in the bottom passively forcing the hot air out through a hole behind the LED panel. You gotta remember not to put the panel right against the back wall or you block the hole. FYI the hole in the back is only 4cm wide! I was thinking about making the hole bigger and maybe even putting a fan in it to help draw out the heat faster but in winter it gets pretty chilly in my shed so didn't want to hack out more of the freezers insulation.

When the lights go out and temp drops below 27.5 degrees the heater kicks in raises it back to 30 deg. In winter the freezer reverts back to being a freezer so needs the heater.

Surprisingly, i have had no real problems with condensation building up inside except for a little on days I water the plants.
With the lights on the heat builds up to the point of kicking in the extractor fan about 3-4 times an hour.
I know 30 deg C seems a bit high for growing but so far the plants seem to be thriving on it and 30 deg seems a good compromise for the amount of time the extractor fan kicks in to cool the freezer which is about 3-4 minutes (depending on outside temp).

I put in the independent switches to turn on and off the fan and heater, Its summer atm so i have the heater turned off all the time until the outside temp starts to drop below 10 deg C

Any questions or comments welcome :)

The Fridge/ freezer project will be similar but quite different to this....
I was going to use 2x 120mm 12v PC fans intake at the bottom, cut thru 2 holes between fridge and freezer with another 2x 120mm 12v fans drawing air up into the freezer section. Carbon filter with inline fan in the freezer section drawing air out in summer or back thru bottom fans in winter to recirculate warm air.

I'll try and knock up another diagram lol :)


yes Far, this diagram makes sense to me, but may not to others, i m an automotive tech, so i can read diagrams that just look like scratch to others(this one looks good as a basic idea) the details included should help out even further, Thank you for the great info
 
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