Makavelivdon
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? wats up
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K. First thanks for getting to me.... I got a dwc bucket with THE BLACK and Lemon skunk as my strains...useing advanced nutrient sensi grow. Cal mag and there b52.... Running 820 ppm and 5.9 ph..... I'm getting brown rust colored spotting on older leafs and idk what it is......
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That sounds like Calcium deficiency. You can google that and find lots of pics. Be careful because people call it Cal / Mag deficiency but magnesium deficiency looks very different...they just sell them in the same bottle. You wont over do either of those so you can just add some if you think it is Calcium Def. And if it is... the spots wont heal...you will just stop the spread of the problem. Typically you add that to DWC each time you change the res or every 2 weeks if you run it continuous like I do.
800 PPM is near the max you want unless you really know what you are doing. So tread lightly. I just walked a guy through a very nice grow and he never had to go that hot. You may end up overdoing them at that level. Hard to tell because I have no idea what stage or age of the plants. I have run plants up to 1300 PPM but I had very nice conditions and high levels of photosynthesis happening. most people don't need to go over 800 to get sweet buds at the peak of consumption.
Pics would help!
Calcium Def looks like this but it actually has many looks. Rust colored however is the dead giveaway.
Magnesium looks like this
800 PPM is near the max you want unless you really know what you are doing. So tread lightly. I just walked a guy through a very nice grow and he never had to go that hot. You may end up overdoing them at that level. Hard to tell because I have no idea what stage or age of the plants. I have run plants up to 1300 PPM but I had very nice conditions and high levels of photosynthesis happening. most people don't need to go over 800 to get sweet buds at the peak of consumption.
Pics would help!
Calcium Def looks like this but it actually has many looks. Rust colored however is the dead giveaway.
Magnesium looks like this
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It def looks like calcium def.....but I added 24 ml of calmag to it when I first saw the symptoms....I changed the water and added calmag at first notice of problem....it continued to get worse? Why?...... This was ten days ago I first saw the symptoms.... Three days later I changed water and added calmag 24 ml.....I waited 7 days still continuing to get worse......so I changed water again.....ran a weaker nute solution... 660 ppm....no cal mag.... Just sensi grow a& b plus b52....... Plant is a 6 month old mother I have been cloning off of......bout 30 inches tall........can calcium b blocked by anything? If I gave it to much at first sign of trouble could it by nute lockout? ....I need to figure this out.......I'll work on figuring out how to post pics.
Calcium absorbs better above 6.2 even in Hydro. many times for a bad calcium problem people will run up the pH to 6.4 or higher for a day with a strong dose of calcium then dump and start over. if you don't let it cycle naturally and keep the pH it very tight and low then Calcium can become an issue. Just one of the many reasons why in Veg it is recommended to run closer to 6.2
But just remember it wont be fixed in the bad leaves. All you can do is inspect new leaves to see if it has been corrected.
What most people do who keep the res in bloom pH during Veg is they just use a lot of cal mag adding it all the time and that helps get it in there.
But just remember it wont be fixed in the bad leaves. All you can do is inspect new leaves to see if it has been corrected.
What most people do who keep the res in bloom pH during Veg is they just use a lot of cal mag adding it all the time and that helps get it in there.
Ah also if it is an old mother you probably don't want to run a sterile system and want to run a living res with beneficial bacteria that will help the pH stabilize where the plant needs it to and aid in efficient balanced uptake.
I would run a long term mother in soil not Hydro. Hydro doesn't aid for this and jut makes it more difficult. The main advantage of hydro is slightly faster growing plants. You want the opposite of that for a mother. There really is no reason to complicate a mother plant grow by doing it in hydro. Soil will make this process much more predictable and easier to control for a long haul grow. Not that it matters...
The point is however that you are running a nutrient program designed to hold the pH in bloom state and designed for fast growing and finishing quickly. That is not a good nute program to hold a plant indefinitely in veg. I don't know what is available to you but I wouldn't use that stuff for an indefinite mother grow.
I would run a long term mother in soil not Hydro. Hydro doesn't aid for this and jut makes it more difficult. The main advantage of hydro is slightly faster growing plants. You want the opposite of that for a mother. There really is no reason to complicate a mother plant grow by doing it in hydro. Soil will make this process much more predictable and easier to control for a long haul grow. Not that it matters...
The point is however that you are running a nutrient program designed to hold the pH in bloom state and designed for fast growing and finishing quickly. That is not a good nute program to hold a plant indefinitely in veg. I don't know what is available to you but I wouldn't use that stuff for an indefinite mother grow.
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So those look like the nutrient deficiencies already discussed. If you are properly using a well balanced complete nute program like Advanced Nutrients then likely the pH is off not allowing for proper uptake.
Possibly you are pHing the res directly and that can cause problems if not done right.
It would be much easier to diagnose if you can post 3 days of res measurements (pH, PPM, temps) as well as describe your schedule better. Are you dumping the res weekly or trying to run it long? I run my res not less than 4 weeks and usually longer.
So a few more details would help.
Possibly you are pHing the res directly and that can cause problems if not done right.
It would be much easier to diagnose if you can post 3 days of res measurements (pH, PPM, temps) as well as describe your schedule better. Are you dumping the res weekly or trying to run it long? I run my res not less than 4 weeks and usually longer.
So a few more details would help.
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- #13
You run your res for four weeks? Wow.....huh....no, I been cchanging mine every two.....I can post last week of ppm ph and temp tomorrow when I get my log book. theoretically, do difernt nutes get blocked at different ppm.... Sooo nitrogen at 940 ppm, calcium at 850, zink at 1100....... Picking up what I'm putting down?
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At least 4 weeks. My buddy does quick grows and goes the while time without changing. I wouldn't do that or recommend it to most people but I know it is totally fine to do.
PPM wont cause immobility. pH does. A static pH is not a good thing. In veg you want to run it like lettuce and later it changes through bloom to get better uptake of other nutes. I will post a chart below that shows many factors involved in a normal DWC grow. And look at it as though you are trying to stay in the very beginning of this chart and not move forward.
PPM wont cause immobility. pH does. A static pH is not a good thing. In veg you want to run it like lettuce and later it changes through bloom to get better uptake of other nutes. I will post a chart below that shows many factors involved in a normal DWC grow. And look at it as though you are trying to stay in the very beginning of this chart and not move forward.
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Date. Ppm temp. Ph.
2-1. 580. 68. 6.3
2-4. 620 72. 6.0
2-7. 360. 66. 5.9 changed water, low ppm add nute
2-8. 530. 67. 6.1
2-9. 520. 66. 6.1. Added 15 ml of calmag...8gal res
2-10. 660. 71. 5.6 noticed first sign of spotting ad 15 ml of nutes
2-11. 760. 65. 5.8. Severe spotting...changed water
2-12. 810. 65. 5.8. Still worsening
2-14. 890. 67. 5.8 changed water again......
2-15. 640. 65. 5.5
2-17. 860. 67. 5.5. Added 15 ml calmag
2-1. 580. 68. 6.3
2-4. 620 72. 6.0
2-7. 360. 66. 5.9 changed water, low ppm add nute
2-8. 530. 67. 6.1
2-9. 520. 66. 6.1. Added 15 ml of calmag...8gal res
2-10. 660. 71. 5.6 noticed first sign of spotting ad 15 ml of nutes
2-11. 760. 65. 5.8. Severe spotting...changed water
2-12. 810. 65. 5.8. Still worsening
2-14. 890. 67. 5.8 changed water again......
2-15. 640. 65. 5.5
2-17. 860. 67. 5.5. Added 15 ml calmag
You have got some serious problems there bro. I don't see any info about topping off. That is some great info but you are missing the part about how much water uptake you are seeing. By adding the top off info it really helps.
So I am assuming you are not topping off and just changing water every 3 days which is not a way to be very successful.
You want to think about the res as the medium and you ant to make small changes to it so as not to shock the plant. I bet that is the actual root of the issue is you are shocking the plant a bunch. But lets talk about what that data means...
So from 2-1 to 2-4 you are seeing that you have too high of concentration or an issue that is preventing nute uptake. I am assuming your water is dropping at least some each day and the concentration is going up meaning the plant is taking on water and not taking on nutes at the same rate. This is causing the roots to get over concentrated with nutes it is not using and will be forcing the plant to push excessive nute up the stem into the leaves. Now the reason the plant is not using the nutes could be many. Maybe it is in shock from a recent hair cut or it has underdeveloped fan leaves and not doing much photosynthesis. Either way you want to keep it in mid veg state so the nut concentration should be closer to 400-500. Peak bloom is closer to 800-1300 (depending on many factors...most people run it closer to 800). Since you are constantly taking cuttings and stunting her and removing fan leaves you need to keep the nutes down a bit.
Something happened drastically between the 4th and 7th that is very different and alarming. The PPM dropped more than just some. I would be very interested to see what the plant was doing at that time. it may have been rebounding from the shock and starting to take off but I really would like to know what the water uptake was there. I am assuming it went way down. It is hard to take up that much nutes without taking up the water. But either way it is taking up nutes much faster than water which is not a good sign.
On the 8th you have changed the res nd have what i would consider a good PPM and pH for a mother and you see it runs stable for a few days. Unless the cal mag was added before the measurement on the 9th. So that is looking good there.
That said the very next day after adding Cal mag the pH tanks and the spotting shows up. That is very odd. I wonder hif this is reused medium that wasn't washed very well???
Also at that time it looks like your plant stops taking up any nutes and is just suffering. The PPMs keep going up meaning it is taking water and not taking on the nutes so it is way over feed. From then on you have no nute uptake happening so the plant is in shock and not working.
Another thing to note is you are adding plenty of cal mag and it is showing calcium Def.
Your pictures show multiple deficiencies and the plant is stealing nitrogen from lower leaves.
So effectively your roots are not working for some reason.
So that is a basic analysis of symptoms...now for a diagnosis that will be a bit harder because a few things could cause this. Now if you are not cloning constantly and the temps are good and the humidity is good and she has a good light then you may have a root infection which we can solve with a good microbial tea. You should post some pics of the roots for us to see what is going on there.
So the next step is to have you post root pics,
tell us about the rooting medium (is it reused or brand new and how much did you clean it before use?),
Tell us about the water uptake you have been seeing (repost that data with estimated water usage),
Tell us about the cloning you have been doing or have you been just growing it out?
Let us know what the temps and humidity are in there throughout the day and how you control it.
Again if you are not stressing it then likely there is an infection in the root zone which is easily fixable.
At the end of this thread I posted a recipe for a tea that is a cure all. you don't need all the ingredients because it is a total plant food but the more you can get the better. if you can get all those ingredients it takes about 36 to 48 hours to brew and about 2-4 cups poured through your basket to get it into the medium will fix any root problems. (You should be pouring your voodoo juice in that way too diluted a bit with res water) I have saved multiple grows on there with that recipe when nothing else worked.
Tea Bag your DWC
So I am assuming you are not topping off and just changing water every 3 days which is not a way to be very successful.
You want to think about the res as the medium and you ant to make small changes to it so as not to shock the plant. I bet that is the actual root of the issue is you are shocking the plant a bunch. But lets talk about what that data means...
So from 2-1 to 2-4 you are seeing that you have too high of concentration or an issue that is preventing nute uptake. I am assuming your water is dropping at least some each day and the concentration is going up meaning the plant is taking on water and not taking on nutes at the same rate. This is causing the roots to get over concentrated with nutes it is not using and will be forcing the plant to push excessive nute up the stem into the leaves. Now the reason the plant is not using the nutes could be many. Maybe it is in shock from a recent hair cut or it has underdeveloped fan leaves and not doing much photosynthesis. Either way you want to keep it in mid veg state so the nut concentration should be closer to 400-500. Peak bloom is closer to 800-1300 (depending on many factors...most people run it closer to 800). Since you are constantly taking cuttings and stunting her and removing fan leaves you need to keep the nutes down a bit.
Something happened drastically between the 4th and 7th that is very different and alarming. The PPM dropped more than just some. I would be very interested to see what the plant was doing at that time. it may have been rebounding from the shock and starting to take off but I really would like to know what the water uptake was there. I am assuming it went way down. It is hard to take up that much nutes without taking up the water. But either way it is taking up nutes much faster than water which is not a good sign.
On the 8th you have changed the res nd have what i would consider a good PPM and pH for a mother and you see it runs stable for a few days. Unless the cal mag was added before the measurement on the 9th. So that is looking good there.
That said the very next day after adding Cal mag the pH tanks and the spotting shows up. That is very odd. I wonder hif this is reused medium that wasn't washed very well???
Also at that time it looks like your plant stops taking up any nutes and is just suffering. The PPMs keep going up meaning it is taking water and not taking on the nutes so it is way over feed. From then on you have no nute uptake happening so the plant is in shock and not working.
Another thing to note is you are adding plenty of cal mag and it is showing calcium Def.
Your pictures show multiple deficiencies and the plant is stealing nitrogen from lower leaves.
So effectively your roots are not working for some reason.
So that is a basic analysis of symptoms...now for a diagnosis that will be a bit harder because a few things could cause this. Now if you are not cloning constantly and the temps are good and the humidity is good and she has a good light then you may have a root infection which we can solve with a good microbial tea. You should post some pics of the roots for us to see what is going on there.
So the next step is to have you post root pics,
tell us about the rooting medium (is it reused or brand new and how much did you clean it before use?),
Tell us about the water uptake you have been seeing (repost that data with estimated water usage),
Tell us about the cloning you have been doing or have you been just growing it out?
Let us know what the temps and humidity are in there throughout the day and how you control it.
Again if you are not stressing it then likely there is an infection in the root zone which is easily fixable.
At the end of this thread I posted a recipe for a tea that is a cure all. you don't need all the ingredients because it is a total plant food but the more you can get the better. if you can get all those ingredients it takes about 36 to 48 hours to brew and about 2-4 cups poured through your basket to get it into the medium will fix any root problems. (You should be pouring your voodoo juice in that way too diluted a bit with res water) I have saved multiple grows on there with that recipe when nothing else worked.
Tea Bag your DWC
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