How do I fertilize?

[bobj]

With this kind of fertilizer https://www.promixgardening.com/en/product/detail/promix-organic-tomatoes-vegetables-fruits-granular-garden-fertilizer-4-4-8

it has a 4-4-8 NPK ratio. If I add it into my soil before I plant my seedling in, will I get the potassium boost? Will it make my plants bigger? Or do I have to wait until I'm in flower to rub this into the soil for the benefits to take effect?

 

[013]

best to follow manufacturers suggestions since their scientist did the heavy lifting.…. but in most cases your soil alone should be sufficient for a few weeks and you don’t want to burn a baby up….

not all soils are the same, coco looks like soil but it’s a whole different animal… . you should prolly avoid a pre-nuted soil like MG that has added nutrients to feed it for X number of weeks or months since that stuff might conflict with your 4-4-8.

also depends on what you are growing photos versus autos

what kind of soil are you using?

 

[TorturedSoul]

The ad that he linked to states to add the stuff every six weeks, starting when plants first begin to grow. It's "organic," and appears to include mycorrhizae. Maybe it requires some time for the microbial life to eat it, digest it, and excrete nutrients that are in a form the plants can take up?

That's probably better than nothing. But a note specific feeding program that was intended for cannabis would be better. I forget who it was that posted a pretty good general set of elements/ratios for cannabis (which you could supply however you like). I think it might have been Feli... peBlu? If anyone knows who I'm referring to, can you "page" him, and ask him to post the list if elements? I can't seem to get the name code enough for the forum software's primitive "@" thing to work.

 

[bobj]

best to follow manufacturers suggestions since their scientist did the heavy lifting.…. but in most cases your soil alone should be sufficient for a few weeks and you don’t want to burn a baby up….

not all soils are the same, coco looks like soil but it’s a whole different animal… . you should prolly avoid a pre-nuted soil like MG that has added nutrients to feed it for X number of weeks or months since that stuff might conflict with your 4-4-8.

also depends on what you are growing photos versus autos

what kind of soil are you using?

I'm using the PROMIX herb and vegetable mix, nothing fancy. But it's what I want to use this time around, it says it will feed my plant for up to three months. Here are the ingredients

• Canadian sphagnum peat moss (60-75%)
• Peat humus (except 2 cu ft comp.)
• Compost (except 2 cu ft comp.)
• Perlite
• Gypsum
• Limestone (for pH adjustment)
• Organic fertilizer
• Mycorrhizae - PTB297 Technology
• Coir / coconut fibre (2 cu ft comp. only)

So as you can see I don't think it's packed/charged with a lot of additional nutrients. I'm only opting for organic compounds in this grow as well, no Miracle Gro or any other synthetic fertilizing compound.

That fertilizer states and I quote "OMRI-listed for organic use, this granular fertilizer must be mixed with the soil or sprinkled around the base of plants." Given what you know about the soil I'm using, it's ingredients, etc. how would you reckon this stuff to best be applied? I've contacted PROMIX via email but I didn't exactly receive a response to the question I had asked, so I kind of don't want to reach out to them again..

 

[TorturedSoul]

I knew a guy who used to grow some real monsters with "organic" nutrients. He'd dig a really large hole, scoop some of the dirt back in, throw in some bone meal, blood meal, various guanos, this that and the other thing... and a big bucket of sludge from the local sewer plant, lol. He'd keep adding things, throwing in more shovelsful of dirt, mixing, and repeating until his hole was backfilled. Then he'd make a depression, stick a knee-high clone into it, cover its roots - and water as needed until harvest. They were like the multiflora rose of cannabis plants. I'm thinking he dug about a cubic yard (3'x3'x3') of soil out. Totally overkill, probably.

@FelipeBlu !!! Are you the person who has posted a decent nutrient profile for cannabis? If so, would you be kind enough to do so, yet again?

 

[bobj]

I knew a guy who used to grow some real monsters with "organic" nutrients. He'd dig a really large hole, scoop some of the dirt back in, throw in some bone meal, blood meal, various guanos, this that and the other thing... and a big bucket of sludge from the local sewer plant, lol. He'd keep adding things, throwing in more shovelsful of dirt, mixing, and repeating until his hole was backfilled. Then he'd make a depression, stick a knee-high clone into it, cover its roots - and water as needed until harvest. They were like the multiflora rose of cannabis plants. I'm thinking he dug about a cubic yard (3'x3'x3') of soil out. Totally overkill, probably.

@FelipeBlu !!! Are you the person who has posted a decent nutrient profile for cannabis? If so, would you be kind enough to do so, yet again?

That's exactly what I want - a plant growing in some dirt that only needs to be watered as needed. I do not want to be plastered to a schedule of needing to administer this nutrient on this day at 3:45pm, this other nutrient at 6:30pm on this day, etc.

Think back to 1969, before grow lights and most other bottled additives. Imagine one of those hippies with disco hair and bell bottoms, how they might have grown a plant. Probably in a plant pot with regular dirt from the front yard and tap water and nothing else, sitting in front of the window. That's what I'm trying to do right now, as simple of a grow as can be.

I take one look through some threads on here, of "why is my plant wilting?" or "why is my plant turning yellow?" or "WHAT'S WRONG WITH MY PLANTS!" and more often than not it's because they added some nutrient they probably shouldn't have added, or added in the incorrect quantity, at the wrong time, etc. etc. I want to avoid all of that. In my opinion it's really not worth it. You can't make the plant eat something it doesn't need or want.

 

[TorturedSoul]

That's exactly what I want - a plant growing in some dirt that only needs to be watered as needed. I do not want to be plastered to a schedule of needing to administer this nutrient on this day at 3:45pm, this other nutrient at 6:30pm on this day, etc.

Yeah... I don't know anyone who feeds like that, really. You may have some slight misconceptions. If cannabis gardening was all that complicated, millions of stoners probably wouldn't be doing it (or, at least, not well).

Think back to 1969, before grow lights

LOL. Electric lights have been used to grow plants for about 150, maybe 160 years. Since the things were invented, basically.

and most other bottled additives. Imagine one of those hippies with disco hair and bell bottoms, how they might have grown a plant.

Outdoors, under the biggest grow light in the solar system, for the most part. Growing cannabis indoors without artificial light, is pretty much just done as a curiosity, unless one has a purpose-built solarium/sunroom. Cannabis is not like lettuce. It is a "light-loving" species of plant, kind of like a tomato plant, or one of the various hot pepper varieties. For good results, you really need a lot of light every day - both during the growth phase and during the flowering phase. Otherwise, you'll end up with a plant that stretches more than grows, and looks like one of the more primitive equatorial sativas (a flower here, a flower there... instead of multiple well-defined and reasonably dense buds). However, just as a tomato plant grown by a widow might produce a tomato, or a few of them - you might harvest a gram, or even a few grams. I do not know your rate of consumption, so I cannot say whether such a harvest would last you more than 24 hours. I'd definitely suggest a one-hitter, though.

Probably in a plant pot with regular dirt from the front yard and tap water and nothing else, sitting in front of the window. That's what I'm trying to do right now, as simple of a grow as can be.

That's fine if one is growing grass - but not "grass."

I take one look through some threads on here, of "why is my plant wilting?" or "why is my plant turning yellow?" or "WHAT'S WRONG WITH MY PLANTS!" and more often than not it's because they added some nutrient they probably shouldn't have added, or added in the incorrect quantity, at the wrong time, etc. etc.

More often than not... it is because they decided to start a cannabis garden without bothering to learn how to become a gardener. Sure, anyone can encounter an unforeseen issue. But a large part of it boils down to willful ignorance. And some issues... are really only considered to be major ones because we're not growing potatoes here, lol. If people could get a ten pound sack of bud for less than eight dollars, well... <SHRUGS> But most people would have to pay a couple of grand - or more - for a single pound of decent bud. We don't get a quarter-pound of seeds for a few bucks like we would corn, either - which is why we carefully "baby" each one instead of dropping three in a hole every few inches and returning a couple of weeks later to cull all but the healthiest five to ten percent of the seedlings.

As for those (compared to cannabis) extremely cheap food crop seeds that produce extremely cheap food - I grow some tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, beans, potatoes, etc., some years. And I feed them. Because I'd really, really like to harvest... more than one meal . Even the "living soil" crowd ensures that their plants receive proper nutrition; they just go about it in a different way than I do. I am fairly certain that none of us uses the strategy(?) of "a plant pot with regular dirt from the front yard and tap water and nothing else, sitting in front of the window." IDK about the hippies in 1969 (most cannabis at that time was probably imported from Mexico and places south of there, and grown by farmers). But my uncle sure didn't, when he brought seeds back from Vietnam (and other countries in that area) just a few years later. He'd have grown it like any other crop, by giving the plants what they needed, both initially and - via amending the soil - along the way, when he observed signs of a deficiency.

It's a plant. It's alive - just like you. And, like you, it needs to "eat."

I want to avoid all of that. In my opinion it's really not worth it.

Well... If you're just wanting a house plant, maybe not. Then again, Mom feeds her African violets (and everything else). Which merely produce some pretty little flowers.

You can't make the plant eat something it doesn't need or want.

I don't know what gives you the impression that anyone here believes otherwise.

Have you bothered to read this thread? I would hope so; it's stickied at the very top of the Organic Soil section, which is one that you'd benefit from perusing, but... maybe not?

Organic Nutrient List

Organic Nutrient List This is a list of Organic nutrients obtained from the Marijuana Cultivation Bible. Enjoy. Organic Nutrient Chart Manures Rabbit manure N= 2.4 P= 1.4 K= 0.6 comments- Most concentrated of animal manures in fresh form. Cow manure (dairy) N= 0.6 P= 0.2 K=...

www.420magazine.com

At this point, I am honestly not sure what your goal is. I mean... the rest of us, when we grow a cannabis plant, it's so we can harvest bud. And not a bud, either - some bud, and hopefully, a fair amount of it. And maybe some hash/concentrate, too, but mostly bud.

I'm not trying to discourage you, just... to inject a bit of reality. Cannabis can be a "low effort, low resources" thing - but not "no effort, no resources." There are successful grows (and grow journal threads) in which the gardeners spent $150 or even less, all in. Maybe you should read some of them. Also, while I am thinking of it, this:

How to Grow Marijuana Everything You Need to Know

How to Grow Marijuana Growing cannabis made easy with our guides and tutorials to help you grow like a pro from room design, medium and lighting to feeding, harvesting, drying and curing your buds. Getting Started & Selecting Your Genetics Should I Start My Grow From Clones or Seeds? Do Roots...

www.420magazine.com

...some of it is a bit dated, but much of it is not. Read, man, READ! People have been adding to the knowledge base here for decades - at least try to digest some of the basics, FFS. That way, you'll at least be able to ask useful questions, and have acquired the bare minimum of knowledge one needs to understand the answers one gets - and have a hope of being able to read the plants, so as to be able to determine their needs instead of having to ignorantly post one of those "why is my plant wilting?" or "why is my plant turning yellow?" or "WHAT'S WRONG WITH MY PLANTS!" threads that you appear to have a problem with. . . .

 

[bobj]

Yeah... I don't know anyone who feeds like that, really. You may have some slight misconceptions. If cannabis gardening was all that complicated, millions of stoners probably wouldn't be doing it (or, at least, not well).



LOL. Electric lights have been used to grow plants for about 150, maybe 160 years. Since the things were invented, basically.



Outdoors, under the biggest grow light in the solar system, for the most part. Growing cannabis indoors without artificial light, is pretty much just done as a curiosity, unless one has a purpose-built solarium/sunroom. Cannabis is not like lettuce. It is a "light-loving" species of plant, kind of like a tomato plant, or one of the various hot pepper varieties. For good results, you really need a lot of light every day - both during the growth phase and during the flowering phase. Otherwise, you'll end up with a plant that stretches more than grows, and looks like one of the more primitive equatorial sativas (a flower here, a flower there... instead of multiple well-defined and reasonably dense buds). However, just as a tomato plant grown by a widow might produce a tomato, or a few of them - you might harvest a gram, or even a few grams. I do not know your rate of consumption, so I cannot say whether such a harvest would last you more than 24 hours. I'd definitely suggest a one-hitter, though.



That's fine if one is growing grass - but not "grass."



More often than not... it is because they decided to start a cannabis garden without bothering to learn how to become a gardener. Sure, anyone can encounter an unforeseen issue. But a large part of it boils down to willful ignorance. And some issues... are really only considered to be major ones because we're not growing potatoes here, lol. If people could get a ten pound sack of bud for less than eight dollars, well... <SHRUGS> But most people would have to pay a couple of grand - or more - for a single pound of decent bud. We don't get a quarter-pound of seeds for a few bucks like we would corn, either - which is why we carefully "baby" each one instead of dropping three in a hole every few inches and returning a couple of weeks later to cull all but the healthiest five to ten percent of the seedlings.

As for those (compared to cannabis) extremely cheap food crop seeds that produce extremely cheap food - I grow some tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, beans, potatoes, etc., some years. And I feed them. Because I'd really, really like to harvest... more than one meal . Even the "living soil" crowd ensures that their plants receive proper nutrition; they just go about it in a different way than I do. I am fairly certain that none of us uses the strategy(?) of "a plant pot with regular dirt from the front yard and tap water and nothing else, sitting in front of the window." IDK about the hippies in 1969 (most cannabis at that time was probably imported from Mexico and places south of there, and grown by farmers). But my uncle sure didn't, when he brought seeds back from Vietnam (and other countries in that area) just a few years later. He'd have grown it like any other crop, by giving the plants what they needed, both initially and - via amending the soil - along the way, when he observed signs of a deficiency.

It's a plant. It's alive - just like you. And, like you, it needs to "eat."



Well... If you're just wanting a house plant, maybe not. Then again, Mom feeds her African violets (and everything else). Which merely produce some pretty little flowers.



I don't know what gives you the impression that anyone here believes otherwise.

Have you bothered to read this thread? I would hope so; it's stickied at the very top of the Organic Soil section, which is one that you'd benefit from perusing, but... maybe not?

Organic Nutrient List

Organic Nutrient List This is a list of Organic nutrients obtained from the Marijuana Cultivation Bible. Enjoy. Organic Nutrient Chart Manures Rabbit manure N= 2.4 P= 1.4 K= 0.6 comments- Most concentrated of animal manures in fresh form. Cow manure (dairy) N= 0.6 P= 0.2 K=...

www.420magazine.com

At this point, I am honestly not sure what your goal is. I mean... the rest of us, when we grow a cannabis plant, it's so we can harvest bud. And not a bud, either - some bud, and hopefully, a fair amount of it. And maybe some hash/concentrate, too, but mostly bud.

I'm not trying to discourage you, just... to inject a bit of reality. Cannabis can be a "low effort, low resources" thing - but not "no effort, no resources." There are successful grows (and grow journal threads) in which the gardeners spent $150 or even less, all in. Maybe you should read some of them. Also, while I am thinking of it, this:

How to Grow Marijuana Everything You Need to Know

How to Grow Marijuana Growing cannabis made easy with our guides and tutorials to help you grow like a pro from room design, medium and lighting to feeding, harvesting, drying and curing your buds. Getting Started & Selecting Your Genetics Should I Start My Grow From Clones or Seeds? Do Roots...

www.420magazine.com

...some of it is a bit dated, but much of it is not. Read, man, READ! People have been adding to the knowledge base here for decades - at least try to digest some of the basics, FFS. That way, you'll at least be able to ask useful questions, and have acquired the bare minimum of knowledge one needs to understand the answers one gets - and have a hope of being able to read the plants, so as to be able to determine their needs instead of having to ignorantly post one of those "why is my plant wilting?" or "why is my plant turning yellow?" or "WHAT'S WRONG WITH MY PLANTS!" threads that you appear to have a problem with. . . .

These are the ingredients in the soil I plan to use

• Canadian sphagnum peat moss (60-75%)
• Peat humus (except 2 cu ft comp.)
• Compost (except 2 cu ft comp.)
• Perlite
• Gypsum
• Limestone (for pH adjustment)
• Organic fertilizer
• Mycorrhizae - PTB297 Technology
• Coir / coconut fibre (2 cu ft comp. only)

It claims to contain "Organic fertilizer that gradually feeds plants for up to 3 months"

So between the soil claiming to feed for 3 months, and the seed starting mix I have my seedlings in right now (which also claims to feed for 3 months), you're saying the plants are gonna need more nutes?

I'm willing to put the aforementioned fertilizer into the soil, but aside from that I'm not putting anything else in the medium unless it's a life or death issue for the plant. The thing is, I don't know how to add this stuff to the soil where that high potassium content could be utilized for flowering. Is it best to add it in before or during flower? PROMIX wasn't specific in the directions.

I've already stated that mad yields and the fattest buds are of no concern to me right now. They will be, eventually, but for right now I just want to do the bare minimum necessary to get four cannabis plants to harvest.

 

[SmokingWings]

That's exactly what I want - a plant growing in some dirt that only needs to be watered as needed. I do not want to be plastered to a schedule of needing to administer this nutrient on this day at 3:45pm, this other nutrient at 6:30pm on this day, etc.

You want a "Water Only" type of soil. I am not sure that a true water only soil exists that will produce the quantity and quality of harvested buds/flowers that we want to become accustomed to growing for ourselves.

hese are the ingredients in the soil I plan to use

• Canadian sphagnum peat moss (60-75%)
• Peat humus (except 2 cu ft comp.)
• Compost (except 2 cu ft comp.)
• Perlite
• Gypsum
• Limestone (for pH adjustment)
• Organic fertilizer
• Mycorrhizae - PTB297 Technology
• Coir / coconut fibre (2 cu ft comp. only)

The soil mixes that gardeners and farmers use is a recipe. Some small changes can be made but it is like baking a cake. The first thing that shows us that your recipe is not going to work is that you are going to use Peat Moss at 60-70% without any idea of 60 or 70% of what?

Kind of like baking a cake or a loaf of bread and saying that the baker will use 65% flour and then measure the sugar, salt and other ingredients by the cup.

Believe it or not, making your own 'super soil' or 'grow soil' is the easiest step in the whole thing as long as the basic recipe is followed.

There is a very simple Coot's Soil recipe that showed up here several days ago. It lists the 3 ingredients that form the base of the mix. It then gives the amounts of the usual amendments that are added to the base after the total volume of the base mix has been figured out (which is easy).

 

[EZCalyx]

I suggest an inoculation with mycorrhizae when transplanting into the soil. It is essentially a the mycelium of a fungus that forms a symbiotic relationship with the root system of the plant and aides in nutrient uptake. If there are little nutrients in the soil this will help uptake and maximize what nutrient availability there is. It looks like there is a mycorrhizea sponsor @DYNOMYCO I've never used this brand but am betting it is quality.

 

[Pat Puffer]

@bobj

Here is a link to a post I made about my "water only soil". I amended the sphagnum peat moss and let cook for a few weeks before planting. I only had a drip irrigation watering them and the crop was totally hands off except for spraying Neem weekly at sunset. Check my couple of grow links to see what is possible growing this method.

As I mention in my post, it is a tad costly to get everything involved, but does produce smoking results (pun intended).

Happy Thanksgiving To Everyone!

Here's to all of us who pass each other and never really spend time on each other's awesome grows...just didn't know a better way to hit all of you at the same time. I see you though and your beautiful grows just so you know... Happy Thanksgiving! Some of The Lorax for you all, hope you are...

www.420magazine.com

Any other questions, please feel free to ask, and I will get to an answer when humanly possible.

I scoured the net for super soil recipes and found some amendments continually used, so I crafted my own mix after those recipes.

 

[Pat Puffer]

Sphagnum peat moss drops in pH annually and after two grows saw diminished results. Use dolomite lime annually to avoid that mistake.

Also a dose of garden lime was used for initial pH balancing at the start to get the peat moss neutral for soil cooking.

 

[bobj]

@bobj

Here is a link to a post I made about my "water only soil". I amended the sphagnum peat moss and let cook for a few weeks before planting. I only had a drip irrigation watering them and the crop was totally hands off except for spraying Neem weekly at sunset. Check my couple of grow links to see what is possible growing this method.

As I mention in my post, it is a tad costly to get everything involved, but does produce smoking results (pun intended).

Happy Thanksgiving To Everyone!

Here's to all of us who pass each other and never really spend time on each other's awesome grows...just didn't know a better way to hit all of you at the same time. I see you though and your beautiful grows just so you know... Happy Thanksgiving! Some of The Lorax for you all, hope you are...

www.420magazine.com

Any other questions, please feel free to ask, and I will get to an answer when humanly possible.

I scoured the net for super soil recipes and found some amendments continually used, so I crafted my own mix after those recipes

Can you please tell me how to best apply the fertilizer into the soil mix I intend to use for this grow?

The NPK ratio is 4-4-8. It's got a higher potassium count (8) than it does phosphorus (4) and nitrogen (4). Therefore, how do I obtain optimal results from the potassium content in the fertilizer? If I apply it during veg, will the plant obtain any additional fertilized benefit during flower? How does this work?

 

[Roy Growin]

Can you please tell me how to best apply the fertilizer into the soil mix I intend to use for this grow?

The NPK ratio is 4-4-8. It's got a higher potassium count (8) than it does phosphorus (4) and nitrogen (4). Therefore, how do I obtain optimal results from the potassium content in the fertilizer? If I apply it during veg, will the plant obtain any additional fertilized benefit during flower? How does this work?

Hi Bob 4-4-8 (1-1-2) will be ok for roots/veg as a dressing just sprinkled on top and watered in
However, all elements rely on others to be effective so you will need to be able to balance that in flower with 3-5-4/2-6-3 or similar plus Micros (Iron, Sulfur etc)
A healthy plant will have more leaf and root mass, meaning that in flower it is simply a bigger, stronger plant
Many, including me, add a PK flower booster weeks 3-5 which improves flower count, then molasses/carbs during the ripen phase - think of it as body-building
Good luck fellow grower

 

[SmokingWings]

The NPK ratio is 4-4-8. It's got a higher potassium count (8) than it does phosphorus (4) and nitrogen (4). Therefore, how do I obtain optimal results from the potassium content in the fertilizer?

A quick google search on "why do plants need Potassium" tells us that the plant uses the Potassium (K) to maintain its overall health. It will need the K throughout its entire life cycle. As @Growings brings up by the time the plant enters the flowering stage it should be bigger and stronger. As the flowers start to form it will need the same amount of K as it was getting just a week or two earlier PLUS now it needs more for the flower growth and to continue to keep them healthy.

My approach is that if/when I wait for the flowers to have formed before adding or increasing the K it is to late. The plant is demanding more than is available. since it is not there the plant suffers and often will not recover before harvest time. So I start to add or increase the K about 2-3 weeks before the switch to flowering. Same with the Phosphorous (P).

 

[Pat Puffer]

Depends on pot size or in ground. I have never used that product.

I would mix in to soil 3 weeks prior to planting in, and keep moist with non-tap water. Tap water contains chlorine or chloromines that inhibit rhizosphere microbiology.

If in a pot of any varying sizes, and after mixing in to soil, plus allowing to "cook" for a few weeks; top dress about a month or two after planting in.

This is IF the ingredients aren't slow release. I can't find what they use on the net, so my advice for you is shakey at best.

Top dressed amendments need about 3-4 weeks to break down and become available. So if in a pot with big root mass; your plant could deplenish the nutrients before you know it.

I wish I had better info for your current product. I only am a one trick pony and know about my recipe and how to use it. I thought you had asked about a potential "water only" recipe. I skimmed your thread and probably missed what you were really after; forgive me.

 

[Roy Growin]

Forgot to mention, if you are pre-mixing granular nutes into the soil, add Dynamoco and allow to cook for at least a few days, as Pat says; turning regularly to incorporate logs of oxygen and encourage microbes

 

[SmokingWings]

Can you please tell me how to best apply the fertilizer into the soil mix I intend to use for this grow?

The promotional blurb from WalMart which is where your link leads says to top-dress with it every 6 weeks starting soon after the plant begins growing. The amounts to use and any additional feeding info should be on the back of the package.

Any water soluble nutrients should be available right away and then the non-soluble portions of the ingredients will become available as the micro-organisms go to work on them.

 

[bobj]

A quick google search on "why do plants need Potassium" tells us that the plant uses the Potassium (K) to maintain its overall health. It will need the K throughout its entire life cycle. As @Growings brings up by the time the plant enters the flowering stage it should be bigger and stronger. As the flowers start to form it will need the same amount of K as it was getting just a week or two earlier PLUS now it needs more for the flower growth and to continue to keep them healthy.

My approach is that if/when I wait for the flowers to have formed before adding or increasing the K it is to late. The plant is demanding more than is available. since it is not there the plant suffers and often will not recover before harvest time. So I start to add or increase the K about 2-3 weeks before the switch to flowering. Same with the Phosphorous (P).

So potassium has little to do with overall size of the buds? I read somewhere that nitrogen was responsible for foliage and overall growth of the leaves, phosphorus was to develop the buds and then potassium was tied to how big/resinous the buds would become in flower. That's not true I take it?

 

[bobj]

Hi Bob 4-4-8 (1-1-2) will be ok for roots/veg as a dressing just sprinkled on top and watered in
However, all elements rely on others to be effective so you will need to be able to balance that in flower with 3-5-4/2-6-3 or similar plus Micros (Iron, Sulfur etc)
A healthy plant will have more leaf and root mass, meaning that in flower it is simply a bigger, stronger plant
Many, including me, add a PK flower booster weeks 3-5 which improves flower count, then molasses/carbs during the ripen phase - think of it as body-building
Good luck fellow grower

So if that will be okay for roots/veg, would this be even better for roots/veg? its NPK ratio is 7-3-3

PRO-MIX Organic Garden Fertilizer Multi-Purpose 7-3-3

This PRO-MIX multi-purpose granular garden fertilizer is an organic based plant food designed to improve soil nutrition and optimize conditions for healthier plants.

www.promixgardening.com

Which of the two fertilizers I've listed do you think would be more ideal for cannabis cultivation? 7-3-3 or 4-4-8