I need help for clone and topping
- Thread starter morphin
- Start date
By the way you should top some of those. You have some that are taking off and it is better for them ti be bushy than tall. Not even for the weight...that is a bonus. The main reason not to grow tall but short and fat is to keep all the flowers the same distance from the bulb. You will be amazed how the top ones are fully ready and the rest of the plant is not. After 6 branches or 3 sets you can top. Some of yours are getting tall.
MrFortwenty
Well-Known Member
Your clones are left in the tent at 12/12 until the others are finished, and then you flip back to veg timing?
Na
So I take em 2 weeks before I bloom so as to heal before bloom. That is unnecessary you could take them the day you flip.
Then they take 2 weeks in the hood under very low light. Ussually a small florescent tube like you use for a reptile. They don't get burned and they don't need a lot of light. It wont help. Just enough to keep them going.
Once they are rooting you can put em in a pot and just leave it under the same bad light but that could cause stretch.
What I do is put them in a cold place with a good light and they don't grow and sort of get slowly bushy.
Then in a while I can bloom them. The ones on the side here are exactly as I described.
Meh pics not loading...but you get the idea.
So I take em 2 weeks before I bloom so as to heal before bloom. That is unnecessary you could take them the day you flip.
Then they take 2 weeks in the hood under very low light. Ussually a small florescent tube like you use for a reptile. They don't get burned and they don't need a lot of light. It wont help. Just enough to keep them going.
Once they are rooting you can put em in a pot and just leave it under the same bad light but that could cause stretch.
What I do is put them in a cold place with a good light and they don't grow and sort of get slowly bushy.
Then in a while I can bloom them. The ones on the side here are exactly as I described.
Meh pics not loading...but you get the idea.
pontiacman
Well-Known Member
moderngroroom
Well-Known Member
Villageidiot has some very good knowledge..
he will help you out alot.. i see him all over post else where and ppl taking his advice dearly
Your in good hands buddy...
he will help you out alot.. i see him all over post else where and ppl taking his advice dearly
Your in good hands buddy...
Hammerback0
Well-Known Member
Thank you very much! First time attempting taking a cutting really. I had new Rapid Rooters, Clonex, fresh razor, done the best I could, it stayed healthy, and even developed new leaf growth while I had it in the makeshift propagator. I had what I considered pretty good root growth coming from the sides/bottom of the rapid rooter plug that I placed her in. I went ahead and put the clone in a slightly larger cheap plastic pot I had laying around, and she’s still kicking in the tent with the other ladies. I just flipped to 12/12 yesterday, as I am just a little disappointed in my grow overall. I really do enjoy growing, that in itself is therapeutic, but my plants remain small, and all I can think of is poor lighting conditions in my little tent. So I’m gonna let these finish out, and try to figure out someway to upgrade my lighting situation. I know there are lots of varying opinions, and heat would be my number one enemy when upgrading, but I’ve been looking at Horticulture Lighting Group (HLG) if I’m recalling correctly, and I’m just gonna have to bite the bullet and go with a QB setup I suppose. Not sure how to fund such a project, but I’ll figure something out lol. If I upgrade lighting and still have “micro plants” there will be a lot of shit for sale!Thanks...and been very busy...
So I like to wait for my clones to have roots...like this.
Then you know they will survive a transplant right into soil and be fine outside of the hood. Make sure they gots some roots hanging out.
Then I go straight into the final pot. These things don't live long enough to mess around with repotting. I prefer to provide oversized pots that let the roots just grow. 7.5 gallons is more than enough but just right IMO for a nice indoor plant. I want the roots to feel free. I stress them with watering schedule to create massive rootballs. If am going to do a scrog I like 10 gallons or more...if I want to do like a single plant in a 4×4 we are talking a 20 gallon pot or more. But these are just generalizations. I have many size pots. I even grow some 3 gallons once in a while. Ussually only clones.
Seed plants need much bigger pots. Clones can be smaller.
But ultimately it comes down to how long you veg it for and how you are feeding.
If you have a manual feed medium and a small pot you have more work. If you have a self feed medium and a large pot you do much less.
Best of luck!
Thanks for the reply Village. I have a hard time calling you Idiot, instead of village!! Lmao!- Thread starter
- #28
morphin
Well-Known Member
1 weak after an issue started on 2 plant. I guess it's magnesium deficiency. Check the leaf photo please.
I'm using "Advanced Nutrients Bloom, Grow and Micro" I don't know why this happened. I'm giving 2+2+2ml every 4 day Maybe over feeding?
I'm thinking to buy "SENSİ CAL-MAG XTRA" for magnesium deficiency problem.
What do you think guys?
I'm using "Advanced Nutrients Bloom, Grow and Micro" I don't know why this happened. I'm giving 2+2+2ml every 4 day Maybe over feeding?
I'm thinking to buy "SENSİ CAL-MAG XTRA" for magnesium deficiency problem.
What do you think guys?
I would be worried about your new growth. If you see it there then be concerned.
If you feel you have that defficiancy after deeper investigation then you really can't over do a manual dosing of that. It is good to add to most grows regularly.
You do have signs but possibly on a leaf which was developed in the original pot where it was rootbound...leaves do not repair for most problems. If you damaged it then it is not perfect. It really doesn't mean much in the long run.
But they wont heal for that.
Now about your lights.
So like cannabis will grow to the size you allow. If it is small that is ...on you really. And you understand that...but the light is one thing. If you do not have substantial stretch in veg you should be fine for something decent. The more light ...up to a point, the easier it is.
But you likely have a problem with humidity. It is the main thing people do wrong. Really it is a combo of having the temps low and the humidity low that prevent most newbs from getting decent growth.
There is really only one thing to growing great cannabis and that is what we call "vigorous growth".
Generally speaking everything else will just happen if the plant shows vigorous growth. The vigor of the plant is the single best tell of a plant.
Without vigor it will grow slow. Then you end up with small buds because ripening is about time not size.
Vigor is what you want to measure and care about.
To create vigorous growth you want a topical grow room. That is sort of difficult but...the very minimum to getting decent yield.
You want to make an indoor garden of eden...then they will open up and fill in.
Check out the temps and humidity on this schedule and if you do this you will have monsters.
If you feel you have that defficiancy after deeper investigation then you really can't over do a manual dosing of that. It is good to add to most grows regularly.
You do have signs but possibly on a leaf which was developed in the original pot where it was rootbound...leaves do not repair for most problems. If you damaged it then it is not perfect. It really doesn't mean much in the long run.
But they wont heal for that.
Now about your lights.
So like cannabis will grow to the size you allow. If it is small that is ...on you really. And you understand that...but the light is one thing. If you do not have substantial stretch in veg you should be fine for something decent. The more light ...up to a point, the easier it is.
But you likely have a problem with humidity. It is the main thing people do wrong. Really it is a combo of having the temps low and the humidity low that prevent most newbs from getting decent growth.
There is really only one thing to growing great cannabis and that is what we call "vigorous growth".
Generally speaking everything else will just happen if the plant shows vigorous growth. The vigor of the plant is the single best tell of a plant.
Without vigor it will grow slow. Then you end up with small buds because ripening is about time not size.
Vigor is what you want to measure and care about.
To create vigorous growth you want a topical grow room. That is sort of difficult but...the very minimum to getting decent yield.
You want to make an indoor garden of eden...then they will open up and fill in.
Check out the temps and humidity on this schedule and if you do this you will have monsters.
- Thread starter
- #30
morphin
Well-Known Member
I would be worried about your new growth. If you see it there then be concerned.
If you feel you have that defficiancy after deeper investigation then you really can't over do a manual dosing of that. It is good to add to most grows regularly.
You do have signs but possibly on a leaf which was developed in the original pot where it was rootbound...leaves do not repair for most problems. If you damaged it then it is not perfect. It really doesn't mean much in the long run.
But they wont heal for that.
Now about your lights.
So like cannabis will grow to the size you allow. If it is small that is ...on you really. And you understand that...but the light is one thing. If you do not have substantial stretch in veg you should be fine for something decent. The more light ...up to a point, the easier it is.
But you likely have a problem with humidity. It is the main thing people do wrong. Really it is a combo of having the temps low and the humidity low that prevent most newbs from getting decent growth.
There is really only one thing to growing great cannabis and that is what we call "vigorous growth".
Generally speaking everything else will just happen if the plant shows vigorous growth. The vigor of the plant is the single best tell of a plant.
Without vigor it will grow slow. Then you end up with small buds because ripening is about time not size.
Vigor is what you want to measure and care about.
To create vigorous growth you want a topical grow room. That is sort of difficult but...the very minimum to getting decent yield.
You want to make an indoor garden of eden...then they will open up and fill in.
Check out the temps and humidity on this schedule and if you do this you will have monsters.
Yes I have humidity problem and I'm working on it. But I'm broke these days and I cant buy anything right now.
I put 1 bowl water under lights and I started spraying water to leafs so I'm going arround %45 these days.
Topping going very well I have 8 top atleast on every plant and I'm thinking to cut 3 of them for clone purpose, at the end I will have 15 clone and 10 surviver will be enough for me.
Now I have 9 new unknown strain seed popped up and I'm making new veg and clone box 110x160.
I'm thinking to put there 600W MH and 6*23W CFL. Also some 4xt8-6500K to flower side with 2xHPS.
I want to create a nice clone loop.
So..humidity done cheap...this is where I am the man...how to do it cheap. I refuse to spend money on things I dont need to.
I am an idiot in many ways and one is penny wise pound foolish.
But anyway...
I use a scrog in my tent. Even when I don't use it I have the frame there and hang we towels all around the edge (shown below). I hang the towels into wet 5 gallon buckets (not showing think). So they are like a swamp cooler wicking up water out of the bucket into the towel and the fans evaporate it. 4 or 5 towels and 3 buckets will do ya.
The best part is it wont break.
Humidifiers all break. Towels tend to dry out with out wear.
So...towels that are dangling in some water near fans. Also...I put my pots on river rocks on drip pans for drainage. You can always add some water there to help.
I am an idiot in many ways and one is penny wise pound foolish.
But anyway...
I use a scrog in my tent. Even when I don't use it I have the frame there and hang we towels all around the edge (shown below). I hang the towels into wet 5 gallon buckets (not showing think). So they are like a swamp cooler wicking up water out of the bucket into the towel and the fans evaporate it. 4 or 5 towels and 3 buckets will do ya.
The best part is it wont break.
Humidifiers all break. Towels tend to dry out with out wear.
So...towels that are dangling in some water near fans. Also...I put my pots on river rocks on drip pans for drainage. You can always add some water there to help.
- Thread starter
- #32
morphin
Well-Known Member
So..humidity done cheap...this is where I am the man...how to do it cheap. I refuse to spend money on things I dont need to.
I am an idiot in many ways and one is penny wise pound foolish.
But anyway...
I use a scrog in my tent. Even when I don't use it I have the frame there and hang we towels all around the edge (shown below). I hang the towels into wet 5 gallon buckets (not showing think). So they are like a swamp cooler wicking up water out of the bucket into the towel and the fans evaporate it. 4 or 5 towels and 3 buckets will do ya.
The best part is it wont break.
Humidifiers all break. Towels tend to dry out with out wear.
So...towels that are dangling in some water near fans. Also...I put my pots on river rocks on drip pans for drainage. You can always add some water there to help.
Humidity problem is over. Thank you mate.
- Thread starter
- #33
morphin
Well-Known Member
Can we make it clear how should I take clones?
Method: A
I was thinking to take clone from mother plant and taking the mother to flower stage. When I harvest it I will take 2nd clone from clone and take the 1nd clone to flower stage again.
With this way I was thinking to get harvest every 2 month without dealing with seeds again.
Method: B
But as I see you're taking clones from mother plant constantly (1-2 years).
Now I cant decide which is more logical, yieldish, fastest and safest way.
I think If I explain what I want to do, it will be more easier for you.
I want to harvest 10 plant every 2 month (1 month will be better ofc if we can )
If I go with method "B";
1- After cutting clone from mother plant, How much it takes to cut another clone from mother again? Is it 1 month enough?
2- Lets say we have 8 top on a plant. Should I cut 4-6 for clone? or Can I cut all of them?
3- How much it takes to harvest a clone? (OFC we can change the time with lights but I mean I want to find a good schelude with best yield with short time.) I think 4 week for root+veg after that 4-5 week for flower stage will be enough. It takes 2-2.5 month.
What should I do? Can you Guide me please?
@VilliageIdiot
Method: A
I was thinking to take clone from mother plant and taking the mother to flower stage. When I harvest it I will take 2nd clone from clone and take the 1nd clone to flower stage again.
With this way I was thinking to get harvest every 2 month without dealing with seeds again.
Method: B
But as I see you're taking clones from mother plant constantly (1-2 years).
Now I cant decide which is more logical, yieldish, fastest and safest way.
I think If I explain what I want to do, it will be more easier for you.
I want to harvest 10 plant every 2 month (1 month will be better ofc if we can
) If I go with method "B";
1- After cutting clone from mother plant, How much it takes to cut another clone from mother again? Is it 1 month enough?
2- Lets say we have 8 top on a plant. Should I cut 4-6 for clone? or Can I cut all of them?
3- How much it takes to harvest a clone? (OFC we can change the time with lights but I mean I want to find a good schelude with best yield with short time.) I think 4 week for root+veg after that 4-5 week for flower stage will be enough. It takes 2-2.5 month.
What should I do? Can you Guide me please?
@VilliageIdiot
Okay...so we are clear I will repeat what you are saying with comments.
Method A: (what I prefer) There are 2 things happening there simultaneous to talk about. First the parent plant. That plant does its own grow and blooms and is done when it is done. The clones are taken before bloom is initiated at any time. Second thing is the clone. That you root in some medium and when you and the clone are ready to veg you put that clone in the veg tent. The way you do this is by stunting the clone after it roots in your soil. You can place it in a cold room with a decent light like a 100W old LED and it wont grow. Then when you are ready you can move it into your grow space and use the clone.
Method B: you have a mother somewhere you keep going in veg and take clones when you want.
Methode B sort of requires 2 grow spaces. That works great when you are doing this for real. When you are doing small personal grows in a single tent...it is way easier to do method A.
In think method A is easier period.
Even when you have 2 rooms. You can always just take from what is currently in veg at any point. I see no need in the difficulty of growing a potted plant for 2 years that I dont need to in the same pot.
Also...Right before bloom you are supposed to do a pruning activity called lollipoping. This results in a ton of cuttings which are available for cloning.
So...the standard practice on prep before going into bloom will provide for the next round.
The only need to go faster requires 2 rooms or more simultaneously. If you have one room you are best to pull the clones from current grow IMO.
You can pull as many as you want any time but...why? They come free 2 weeks before bloom and the later you pull them the short time you stunt them.
Keep it simple.
Method A: (what I prefer) There are 2 things happening there simultaneous to talk about. First the parent plant. That plant does its own grow and blooms and is done when it is done. The clones are taken before bloom is initiated at any time. Second thing is the clone. That you root in some medium and when you and the clone are ready to veg you put that clone in the veg tent. The way you do this is by stunting the clone after it roots in your soil. You can place it in a cold room with a decent light like a 100W old LED and it wont grow. Then when you are ready you can move it into your grow space and use the clone.
Method B: you have a mother somewhere you keep going in veg and take clones when you want.
Methode B sort of requires 2 grow spaces. That works great when you are doing this for real. When you are doing small personal grows in a single tent...it is way easier to do method A.
In think method A is easier period.
Even when you have 2 rooms. You can always just take from what is currently in veg at any point. I see no need in the difficulty of growing a potted plant for 2 years that I dont need to in the same pot.
Also...Right before bloom you are supposed to do a pruning activity called lollipoping. This results in a ton of cuttings which are available for cloning.
So...the standard practice on prep before going into bloom will provide for the next round.
The only need to go faster requires 2 rooms or more simultaneously. If you have one room you are best to pull the clones from current grow IMO.
You can pull as many as you want any time but...why? They come free 2 weeks before bloom and the later you pull them the short time you stunt them.
Keep it simple.
- Thread starter
- #35
morphin
Well-Known Member
Okay I will go with method A then.
I have a plan like this. I dont have grow tend. They are too expensive in my country. So I will build the VEG room with white hardboard like in the schema. I will send pictures when its done.
Thank you for your help mate.
Start a journal and I will subscribe and get you through this.
Your setup will require variable speed fans. You need to get the speed controllers to dial it. You will have line loss in the hoses.
It is simply easier and better to do everything in the largest diameter you want and kneck it all down at the point of use. That is where the variable speed fans really help managing the load.
I control my temps using the fan speed...but you having multiple in line with each other. You will need them adjustable just to prevent inadvertantly wearing them out fast.
For venting the hot air always use insulated hose. If you use simple single wall a massive amount of heat gets radiated back into the room. So you are wasting power generating heat in the fan motor to heat up a hose that is in your room. The vent hose should vent the heat not reradiate it back in.
Gotta run...start a journal and we can get you over the finish line with good product.
I would start with 1 light and do a grow in the middle of that room. While that is happening start accumulating the rest of this stuff and building it out. It is best to start small and expand.
But you can go buy it all now if ya want...sounds like fun to me.
Your setup will require variable speed fans. You need to get the speed controllers to dial it. You will have line loss in the hoses.
It is simply easier and better to do everything in the largest diameter you want and kneck it all down at the point of use. That is where the variable speed fans really help managing the load.
I control my temps using the fan speed...but you having multiple in line with each other. You will need them adjustable just to prevent inadvertantly wearing them out fast.
For venting the hot air always use insulated hose. If you use simple single wall a massive amount of heat gets radiated back into the room. So you are wasting power generating heat in the fan motor to heat up a hose that is in your room. The vent hose should vent the heat not reradiate it back in.
Gotta run...start a journal and we can get you over the finish line with good product.
I would start with 1 light and do a grow in the middle of that room. While that is happening start accumulating the rest of this stuff and building it out. It is best to start small and expand.
But you can go buy it all now if ya want...sounds like fun to me.
- Thread starter
- #37
morphin
Well-Known Member
Thanks...and been very busy...
So I like to wait for my clones to have roots...like this.
Then you know they will survive a transplant right into soil and be fine outside of the hood. Make sure they gots some roots hanging out.
Then I go straight into the final pot. These things don't live long enough to mess around with repotting. I prefer to provide oversized pots that let the roots just grow. 7.5 gallons is more than enough but just right IMO for a nice indoor plant. I want the roots to feel free. I stress them with watering schedule to create massive rootballs. If am going to do a scrog I like 10 gallons or more...if I want to do like a single plant in a 4×4 we are talking a 20 gallon pot or more. But these are just generalizations. I have many size pots. I even grow some 3 gallons once in a while. Ussually only clones.
Seed plants need much bigger pots. Clones can be smaller.
But ultimately it comes down to how long you veg it for and how you are feeding.
If you have a manual feed medium and a small pot you have more work. If you have a self feed medium and a large pot you do much less.
Best of luck!
Hello again. I got my clones 3 days ago.
It seems they're still alive at least for now...
I'm still waiting for turning lights to HPS because I'm afraid to lost my clones.
They are in a stable environment under the CFL lamps. I spray water every day to keep the moisture high.
7 day later they should be ready for transplant right?
Attachments
No but good job! Your clones look nice! Short but nice.
The will droop. It is not worth what it takes to make them not droop...so don't worry about it.
The time it takes depends on your setup. Many people over water the medium. You want the medium not very wet to tease out the roots. The plants survive off water from the air...from your spray bottle and the hood.
Depending on how well you tease out the roots it could be a week.
Make sure the cups you are using have holes in the bottom. Don't let them get wet just moist. Make it go searching for water in that area.
They will stand up an look fine before they are ready to live without the hood. Leave them under the hood about 3 days longer after they stand up on their own.
After the are up on their own without a hood, depending on a few things, it can be up to a week to get enough roots to replant with 100 percent success. But again the process can be screwed up at any point along the way.
I don't rush clones because there is no need. Trust me. Once you figure this out...before you know it you have way too many plants.
Then you will realize you want to clone them twice as big as what you have done.
I prefer a few sets of leaves. I really like to clone monsters and just bloom them right away.
If you know what you are doing. You take all the lower stuff in a pruning activity called lollipoping which will not translate.
Lollipoping means to make your tree look like a Bush or a lollipop. That is what pear and apples farmers do...and many more including most cannabis farmers. The reason is to remove the lower branches that wont yield much so the nutrients get focused onto the flowers we care about. Also in the case of trees to make them manageable as they grow too tall to service. You could say the same about the cannabis but we use the SCROG or super cropping for that.
So why not instead...grow a big plant in veg?...And 3 weeks before bloom take a pile of monster clones from the bottom. 3 weeks later place them right into bloom with the mother and get double the yield?
Works for me. It can for you.
That is what is on page one here. That one was forced on me but I have been forced to shut down many times.
Peace!
The will droop. It is not worth what it takes to make them not droop...so don't worry about it.
The time it takes depends on your setup. Many people over water the medium. You want the medium not very wet to tease out the roots. The plants survive off water from the air...from your spray bottle and the hood.
Depending on how well you tease out the roots it could be a week.
Make sure the cups you are using have holes in the bottom. Don't let them get wet just moist. Make it go searching for water in that area.
They will stand up an look fine before they are ready to live without the hood. Leave them under the hood about 3 days longer after they stand up on their own.
After the are up on their own without a hood, depending on a few things, it can be up to a week to get enough roots to replant with 100 percent success. But again the process can be screwed up at any point along the way.
I don't rush clones because there is no need. Trust me. Once you figure this out...before you know it you have way too many plants.
Then you will realize you want to clone them twice as big as what you have done.
I prefer a few sets of leaves. I really like to clone monsters and just bloom them right away.
If you know what you are doing. You take all the lower stuff in a pruning activity called lollipoping which will not translate.
Lollipoping means to make your tree look like a Bush or a lollipop. That is what pear and apples farmers do...and many more including most cannabis farmers. The reason is to remove the lower branches that wont yield much so the nutrients get focused onto the flowers we care about. Also in the case of trees to make them manageable as they grow too tall to service. You could say the same about the cannabis but we use the SCROG or super cropping for that.
So why not instead...grow a big plant in veg?...And 3 weeks before bloom take a pile of monster clones from the bottom. 3 weeks later place them right into bloom with the mother and get double the yield?
Works for me. It can for you.
That is what is on page one here. That one was forced on me but I have been forced to shut down many times.
Peace!
- Thread starter
- #39
morphin
Well-Known Member
I'm glad it's okay and you liked it! I took all clones from the bottom like lollipoping. I cleaned little bit and cut them 45 and dipped it in clonex. I would normally leave the big branches but after reading what you wrote it made a lot of sense. Also I saw your method really works great. but I don't have the proper environment for the big clones. I've already extended the development process, but I'll try to get a couple of big clones anyway.
I think I have to make lollipops because the lower leaves began to deteriorate. What do you think about these leafs?
What is the possible reason of that? All leafs looks down even after I didnt give water 4 day.
I feed them with Bloom,Micro,Grow set.
Please start a journal.
You actually have layered questions really in there. Like asking that... means now I have to explain all this other stuff you may think you understand. And that is fine but not for here.
Like for example let's talk about defficiancy.
Is the defficiancy in new or old growth? In your case it is old growth. In fact the oldest...that is very important.
If new growth is failing then something is wrong preventing nutrients getting to the places needed and or something is blocking photosynthesis.
If mature nutrient storage sites are being scavenged by the plant and you are not well into bloom then there is a problem...outside of one thing which you don't have. And that thing looks like nitrogen defficiancy not what you have. But like your issue...is most commonly seen on the very bottom leaves.
So for some reason the nutrients stored up in those bottom leaves, which were meant to be used late in bloom when the roots "don't work", are being scavenged now.
Before we talk about the why let me explain that removing them will not help anything. In fact it may make things worse.
If you have a problem and it is scavenging and to remove those leaves. It has to heal those sites and start scavenging from other leaves as you have not fixed the problem.
Monitor it.
Removing lower fan leaves makes no logical sense at all. When they are done being scavenged they come off on their own. As long as the are still connected they are free food for the plant. They are doing no harm.
Now why it is problematic could be a number of things. But this is not defficiancy because of a lack of something. The plant already grew that leaf. That one is done. The new ones are fine right? So the nutes are getting there fine. Unless the new growth is poor. You don't show the new growth. If new growth is poor we have a problem.
If new growth is poor then you have to make an adjustment. If old or esspecially oldest growth is poor after it was just fine...something happened and the plant decided to scavenge that leaf now rather than later. That can happen for a number of minor reasons that are not a big deal.
The thing is ... the plant finds that accessing nutes and sugars from leaves is easier than the ground. The plant prefers them and will use, when needed, from those most useless leaves first if it wants more now and can't wait.
What can cause it is a number of things but usually is not much to worry about unless it progresses.
I don't do this anymore because you have to learn yourself. Do a search for nutrient defficiancy in cannabis online and you will find pics of your problem. You should get to know all of them.
And lastly...when the leaves droop because it is time to water it is all of the leaves not a few on the bottom.
You actually have layered questions really in there. Like asking that... means now I have to explain all this other stuff you may think you understand. And that is fine but not for here.
Like for example let's talk about defficiancy.
Is the defficiancy in new or old growth? In your case it is old growth. In fact the oldest...that is very important.
If new growth is failing then something is wrong preventing nutrients getting to the places needed and or something is blocking photosynthesis.
If mature nutrient storage sites are being scavenged by the plant and you are not well into bloom then there is a problem...outside of one thing which you don't have. And that thing looks like nitrogen defficiancy not what you have. But like your issue...is most commonly seen on the very bottom leaves.
So for some reason the nutrients stored up in those bottom leaves, which were meant to be used late in bloom when the roots "don't work", are being scavenged now.
Before we talk about the why let me explain that removing them will not help anything. In fact it may make things worse.
If you have a problem and it is scavenging and to remove those leaves. It has to heal those sites and start scavenging from other leaves as you have not fixed the problem.
Monitor it.
Removing lower fan leaves makes no logical sense at all. When they are done being scavenged they come off on their own. As long as the are still connected they are free food for the plant. They are doing no harm.
Now why it is problematic could be a number of things. But this is not defficiancy because of a lack of something. The plant already grew that leaf. That one is done. The new ones are fine right? So the nutes are getting there fine. Unless the new growth is poor. You don't show the new growth. If new growth is poor we have a problem.
If new growth is poor then you have to make an adjustment. If old or esspecially oldest growth is poor after it was just fine...something happened and the plant decided to scavenge that leaf now rather than later. That can happen for a number of minor reasons that are not a big deal.
The thing is ... the plant finds that accessing nutes and sugars from leaves is easier than the ground. The plant prefers them and will use, when needed, from those most useless leaves first if it wants more now and can't wait.
What can cause it is a number of things but usually is not much to worry about unless it progresses.
I don't do this anymore because you have to learn yourself. Do a search for nutrient defficiancy in cannabis online and you will find pics of your problem. You should get to know all of them.
And lastly...when the leaves droop because it is time to water it is all of the leaves not a few on the bottom.
