Leaves dry and die!

[Birus Sama]

Hello everyone
week 8 in flowering, try to stay on steady ppm.
It's been a while leaves or leaf parts just dry out completely!
In addition there are leaves with a certain deficiency.

60L reservoir, tap water at 170ppm
Fertilization according to the table

Thanks for the help

 

[Chris Scorpio]

For sure some nute issues

What nutes
How much, as in strength
Water pH
How often do u change rezz
DWC, RDWC, DTW??????

 

[iNeedMeds]

Hello everyone
week 8 in flowering, try to stay on steady ppm.
It's been a while leaves or leaf parts just dry out completely!
In addition there are leaves with a certain deficiency.

60L reservoir, tap water at 170ppm
Fertilization according to the table

Thanks for the help

The problem is too much calcium carbonate in your water.

Calcium carbonate causes a few problems.

Problem 1: When you add acid, like nitrate, soluble phosphorus, sulphur, the carbonate breaks down into H2O + CO2. The CO2 evaporates, and the pH rises as H+ ions are used up in the process. This makes a lot of nutrients unavailable.

Problem 2: The calcium levels become very high if you keep the pH low enough for it to be absorbed. The calcium will quickly occupy cation exchange sites in hydroponic mediums that have them, like coco. Even in straight water, the plant has a cation exchange capacity. Think of it like equal representation. The plant is taking in Calcium, Potassium, and magnesium in the ratio that they are present in the solution. Right now, Calcium is dominating most of that capacity, and you can see it by the potassium and magnesium deficiency in your plants. As you can see, the tops of your plants are burning the most, which is causes by lacking the potassium to tolerate light and heat stresses that a healthy plant could easily tolerate.

The only solution is to use RO water. Sometimes tap water can be used if the calcium carbonate is lower, like 100 or less. After 100 parts per million, you can't do much with calcium levels that high. In smaller quantities, you can use nitric acid to convert the calcium carbonate into calcium nitrate, which is part of every fertilizer mix. They actually make calcium nitrate by exposing limestone(calcium carbonate) to a mild nitric acid.

RO is your solution. Either hall bottles if your setup is small, or buy a RO unit. I bought mine off the big rainforest and river site for $80 + a few parts to plumb it in. Now I have 100gpd capacity, which is excessive for my needs. Most of the time, if you have a whole house humidifier, you can simply T in off of the 1/4", and add a valve on the humidifier side to control flow rate for it, and one on the RO side to shut off the filter. Or buy a unit with the shut off valve, and supply your humidifier with RO water, and you'll never replace the filter ever again.

 

[pr3tti]

The problem is too much calcium carbonate in your water.

Calcium carbonate causes a few problems.

Problem 1: When you add acid, like nitrate, soluble phosphorus, sulphur, the carbonate breaks down into H2O + CO2. The CO2 evaporates, and the pH rises as H+ ions are used up in the process. This makes a lot of nutrients unavailable.

Problem 2: The calcium levels become very high if you keep the pH low enough for it to be absorbed. The calcium will quickly occupy cation exchange sites in hydroponic mediums that have them, like coco. Even in straight water, the plant has a cation exchange capacity. Think of it like equal representation. The plant is taking in Calcium, Potassium, and magnesium in the ratio that they are present in the solution. Right now, Calcium is dominating most of that capacity, and you can see it by the potassium and magnesium deficiency in your plants. As you can see, the tops of your plants are burning the most, which is causes by lacking the potassium to tolerate light and heat stresses that a healthy plant could easily tolerate.

The only solution is to use RO water. Sometimes tap water can be used if the calcium carbonate is lower, like 100 or less. After 100 parts per million, you can't do much with calcium levels that high. In smaller quantities, you can use nitric acid to convert the calcium carbonate into calcium nitrate, which is part of every fertilizer mix. They actually make calcium nitrate by exposing limestone(calcium carbonate) to a mild nitric acid.

RO is your solution. Either hall bottles if your setup is small, or buy a RO unit. I bought mine off the big rainforest and river site for $80 + a few parts to plumb it in. Now I have 100gpd capacity, which is excessive for my needs. Most of the time, if you have a whole house humidifier, you can simply T in off of the 1/4", and add a valve on the humidifier side to control flow rate for it, and one on the RO side to shut off the filter. Or buy a unit with the shut off valve, and supply your humidifier with RO water, and you'll never replace the filter ever again.

Man you are a Plant God.

Also @OP, if you're small time grower on a budget like me and need RO-type water. Do this:
Basically, I use my Fridge water filtered through a Zero Water filter.

• Fridge filter is a 0.5micron Coconut Shell carbon filter so it will filter out organic contaminants, chlorine, and a lot of bacteria, mold, but not all.
• Zero water filter is a huge ion-resin exchange filter that filters out a lot of mineral contaminants (ions) that the Fridge filter won't catch.
• Becomes like a pseudo 2-stage RO system. In fact, the water that comes out of my Zero Water filter is 0 ppm and I can be certain all contaminants above 0.5micron is filtered out as well.

6-cup Zero Water Filter + Pitcher can be bought for $20 and lasts about 6 months.
Hope this helps