if u got high wattage then you can actually grow from beginning to end. the only difference is you wont see much yield, some ,but not much. i think they're better for vegging than for flowering.
LED vs. HPS
- Thread starter funkmaster
- Start date
if u got high wattage then you can actually grow from beginning to end. the only difference is you wont see much yield, some ,but not much. i think they're better for vegging than for flowering.
Re: LED vs. HPS (LONG)
Hmm... Have you priced CREE LEDs lately?
Ok I just stumbled into this thread but I did read the entire thing. And I am only asking for the sake of learning as the good ones are way out of my budget and the cheap ones are CHEAP.
For those using LEDs, are you using fixtures that contain CREE LEDs? They are as far as I can tell the only really good ones.
Techhead, that question was for everyone but as you've built your own I am especially interested in reading your answer.
Also, I saw only one reference in this thread to the ProSource Illuminator SuperPro Series Tri-Band Spectrum Hybrid. What a mouthful lol - but at 700 watts and a price tag of $2700, I guess they might have felt it deserved a somewhat more illustrious light than "Biggest LED Yet". Has anyone gone to their site and read up on it? I can't remember exactly what the policy is on off-site product links but typing prosource 700 led into google will bring up their web site as the first result.
The "Tri-Band" in the name, incidentally, is not a blue spectrum and two different red ones, it is blue, red, and orange. Their homepage has an explanation of why they included the orange light and it reads like it makes sense - BUT they are in the business of selling you their product, so of course it is going to. Also, I am not a plant biologist, so what do I know? Next to nothing about this subject.
Although the cost is outrageous, this would seem to be close to something that I would compare with a 600 watt HPS. I would not use two 300s because I would wish to compare a "single" light source. As for the cost vs. cost, you could argue that back and forth, the cost of a 600 watt HPS with multiple bulb replacements PLUS the cost of the air conditioning needed over the course of a year PLUS the cost of the electricity needed to run the light and the climate control might come out somewhere in the same universe as the cost of the 700 watt LED PLUS the cost of the heater (yup, can't use one of these things to heat your grow room in the winter lmao) needed over the course of a year PLUS the cost of the electricity needed to run the light and the climate control.
I really don't have a clue whether it would compare or not. Unless the LED were to give me an immediate-replacement (72 hours max) warranty then I wouldn't automatically count it as being good for n number of hours/years anyway due to the fact that stuff happens, but that's just me.
And whether they are only making a buck or two or are raping everyone, the fact is that research(?) costs money, making products that have low enough sales initially to mean that their supplies costs a lot more than things bought by the million-part package, etc.
Basically, anyone that insists on being on the bleeding edge in ANY product market is going to pay the premium that people who decide to wait several years just isn't going to have to.
So as much as it pains me to say this... I can't really give much credence to comparisons that focus on cost (although I am still interested in reading about it). The cost of a developing product vs. the cost of one that has been more or less fully developed for years, even though they are both measured in the same dollars, pounds, golden foo-bird droppings, etc... really IS "apples to oranges."
I did see the "apples to oranges" phrase mentioned early in this thread. Comparing one light's harvest against another (if all other conditions including genetics were the same) would be an apples to apples in my book. THAT'S a proper experiment.
I also wanted to mention that other than someone posting a few pictures (Johnny Hempseed?), there have only been TWO actual grow journals referenced in this entire thread as far as I could see. One was Be Irie's, the other was Seahawks referencing one that is just getting started on another web site (Is this allowed? Why not have one here?) which is under a different user name but I will assume it is his.
Why doesn't everyone who claims to have some sort of growing experience with any of the various LEDs actually post a grow journal here? Not that ANY of you are telling tall tales - I tend to believe someone until they give me reason not to (which has repeatedly caused me problems, but if I ever get to the point where I do NOT trust my fellow man, what's the point?) - but there might well be some misremembered things, some slight over-assumption, etc. Not to mention that others can learn from your results and possibly even provide some useful advice for you.
Techhead, I'd really like to see a journal of one of your grows from seed (or cutting) to harvest since you've built your own LED setup and seem to use it exclusively. THAT would be interesting to see.
Hope I have not stuck my nose where it doesn't belong and I really hope I have given no offense. You guys are going places where I can't and I will continue to read along (lack of budget at present) and live vicariously through your postings.
TorturedSoul
PS By the way, what is the point of adding white LEDs to a grow light? Just to make the plants look better in digital pictures? No, I'm serious here; from back in my school dayz I (seem to) remember (- correct me if I am wrong -) that white light is just a "combination of all the colors under the rainbow" (well, not exactly but I don't have my thinking cap on right now lol, so I'll go with the white = addition of all colors & black = abscence of all colors analogy). So it would seem to me that a white light (be it LED, HPS, MH, burning phosphorous, etc.) would be rather inefficient in this application when it looks like the whole selling point is that these things provide ONLY the exact wavelengths that the plant uses - IOW, that they provide PARTS of a white light... So why then include white light on top of it? I would think that if the little bit I've read about the addition of the orange light is correct, that it would be much better in a "tri-band" LED setup. Thoughts?
Hmm... Have you priced CREE LEDs lately?
Ok I just stumbled into this thread but I did read the entire thing. And I am only asking for the sake of learning as the good ones are way out of my budget and the cheap ones are CHEAP.
For those using LEDs, are you using fixtures that contain CREE LEDs? They are as far as I can tell the only really good ones.
Techhead, that question was for everyone but as you've built your own I am especially interested in reading your answer.
Also, I saw only one reference in this thread to the ProSource Illuminator SuperPro Series Tri-Band Spectrum Hybrid. What a mouthful lol - but at 700 watts and a price tag of $2700, I guess they might have felt it deserved a somewhat more illustrious light than "Biggest LED Yet". Has anyone gone to their site and read up on it? I can't remember exactly what the policy is on off-site product links but typing prosource 700 led into google will bring up their web site as the first result.
The "Tri-Band" in the name, incidentally, is not a blue spectrum and two different red ones, it is blue, red, and orange. Their homepage has an explanation of why they included the orange light and it reads like it makes sense - BUT they are in the business of selling you their product, so of course it is going to. Also, I am not a plant biologist, so what do I know? Next to nothing about this subject.
Although the cost is outrageous, this would seem to be close to something that I would compare with a 600 watt HPS. I would not use two 300s because I would wish to compare a "single" light source. As for the cost vs. cost, you could argue that back and forth, the cost of a 600 watt HPS with multiple bulb replacements PLUS the cost of the air conditioning needed over the course of a year PLUS the cost of the electricity needed to run the light and the climate control might come out somewhere in the same universe as the cost of the 700 watt LED PLUS the cost of the heater (yup, can't use one of these things to heat your grow room in the winter lmao) needed over the course of a year PLUS the cost of the electricity needed to run the light and the climate control.
I really don't have a clue whether it would compare or not. Unless the LED were to give me an immediate-replacement (72 hours max) warranty then I wouldn't automatically count it as being good for n number of hours/years anyway due to the fact that stuff happens, but that's just me.
And whether they are only making a buck or two or are raping everyone, the fact is that research(?) costs money, making products that have low enough sales initially to mean that their supplies costs a lot more than things bought by the million-part package, etc.
Basically, anyone that insists on being on the bleeding edge in ANY product market is going to pay the premium that people who decide to wait several years just isn't going to have to.
So as much as it pains me to say this... I can't really give much credence to comparisons that focus on cost (although I am still interested in reading about it). The cost of a developing product vs. the cost of one that has been more or less fully developed for years, even though they are both measured in the same dollars, pounds, golden foo-bird droppings, etc... really IS "apples to oranges."
I did see the "apples to oranges" phrase mentioned early in this thread. Comparing one light's harvest against another (if all other conditions including genetics were the same) would be an apples to apples in my book. THAT'S a proper experiment.
I also wanted to mention that other than someone posting a few pictures (Johnny Hempseed?), there have only been TWO actual grow journals referenced in this entire thread as far as I could see. One was Be Irie's, the other was Seahawks referencing one that is just getting started on another web site (Is this allowed? Why not have one here?) which is under a different user name but I will assume it is his.
Why doesn't everyone who claims to have some sort of growing experience with any of the various LEDs actually post a grow journal here? Not that ANY of you are telling tall tales - I tend to believe someone until they give me reason not to (which has repeatedly caused me problems, but if I ever get to the point where I do NOT trust my fellow man, what's the point?) - but there might well be some misremembered things, some slight over-assumption, etc. Not to mention that others can learn from your results and possibly even provide some useful advice for you.
Techhead, I'd really like to see a journal of one of your grows from seed (or cutting) to harvest since you've built your own LED setup and seem to use it exclusively. THAT would be interesting to see.
Hope I have not stuck my nose where it doesn't belong and I really hope I have given no offense. You guys are going places where I can't and I will continue to read along (lack of budget at present) and live vicariously through your postings.
TorturedSoul
PS By the way, what is the point of adding white LEDs to a grow light? Just to make the plants look better in digital pictures? No, I'm serious here; from back in my school dayz I (seem to) remember (- correct me if I am wrong -) that white light is just a "combination of all the colors under the rainbow" (well, not exactly but I don't have my thinking cap on right now lol, so I'll go with the white = addition of all colors & black = abscence of all colors analogy). So it would seem to me that a white light (be it LED, HPS, MH, burning phosphorous, etc.) would be rather inefficient in this application when it looks like the whole selling point is that these things provide ONLY the exact wavelengths that the plant uses - IOW, that they provide PARTS of a white light... So why then include white light on top of it? I would think that if the little bit I've read about the addition of the orange light is correct, that it would be much better in a "tri-band" LED setup. Thoughts?
Ok TorturedSoul, you asked a lot of questions, so first I'll start with the Cree LED thing. I did look at those, but went with Ledengin for a couple reasons. First thing was mounting, the Ledengin's could be purchased mounted on a heat sink star for easy mounting, but this was last year, and I think Cree has them mounted like that now. Then I looked at dollar per intensity, I looked at all of them when I did this, the small T500's and all. I found the best output per dollar seemed to be the 5 watt units even though they are not cheap.
As far as jurnaling everything, I'm still working on changes I see need making, so at this point it's too soon. Right now I have only just begun, I have 60 red at 630nm, and 18 blue at 465nm, but that's not 390 watts like it seems, but when the real power is figured out it's really only 215 watts. This still hasn't met the power I want to achieve, It was a little slow, but still I got a little better results than a few years back when I was only running a 400 MH. I over built my power supply so expanding was always in the picture, but the cost of the LED's had to be spaced out over time. So I do want to bring it up a lot, and my future plan is to add 34 deep red at 660nm, and 12 cool white.
This brings me to the last question I saw about why the white LED's. I've been reading a lot of things this last year about light spectrums, and plant needs, and I've come to some conclusions, right or wrong, this is only my theory, mostly based on things I've found. First let me tell you what a white LED is. It's not white, but mostly blue. They are still working on true white LED's, but right now they start with the blue LED concept, and doping, but have found ways to expand the frequency. I've looked at the chart of the white LED's and they have a very high spike at about 490nm, and balence them into white with a long range into the red regions to balance them to look more white. I think this addition will help fill all those little nitches a plant may still need. I kind of think of it like the nutriants a plant needs. Sure they need the big three, Nitregen and all, but they also need the little things like Copper. I think they need the little things in light as well, that's why the white should be in there. Does this help
As far as jurnaling everything, I'm still working on changes I see need making, so at this point it's too soon. Right now I have only just begun, I have 60 red at 630nm, and 18 blue at 465nm, but that's not 390 watts like it seems, but when the real power is figured out it's really only 215 watts. This still hasn't met the power I want to achieve, It was a little slow, but still I got a little better results than a few years back when I was only running a 400 MH. I over built my power supply so expanding was always in the picture, but the cost of the LED's had to be spaced out over time. So I do want to bring it up a lot, and my future plan is to add 34 deep red at 660nm, and 12 cool white.
This brings me to the last question I saw about why the white LED's. I've been reading a lot of things this last year about light spectrums, and plant needs, and I've come to some conclusions, right or wrong, this is only my theory, mostly based on things I've found. First let me tell you what a white LED is. It's not white, but mostly blue. They are still working on true white LED's, but right now they start with the blue LED concept, and doping, but have found ways to expand the frequency. I've looked at the chart of the white LED's and they have a very high spike at about 490nm, and balence them into white with a long range into the red regions to balance them to look more white. I think this addition will help fill all those little nitches a plant may still need. I kind of think of it like the nutriants a plant needs. Sure they need the big three, Nitregen and all, but they also need the little things like Copper. I think they need the little things in light as well, that's why the white should be in there. Does this help
I'm sorry I looked into the white LED's again, the spike isn't at 490, but at 455nm for Chlorphyll a, 430nm, and b, 453nm as well as Bata-Carotene 450nm/480-485nm this will fill the bill I think. This is why the white LED's should be in there. If you want to see these spec's for yourself, as well as others go to mouser.com and put this part # into the search box 897-lz110cw05, then hit on the details button, this will bring up the page where you can look at all the LED's I used, and will use.
Hey Techhead, thanks for responding. Yeah, I too have often wondered about the worthiness of "spikes" vs. the spectrum.
A journal-in-progress would still be great. Can't speak for others (wouldn't want to) but I'd spend a lot more time reading one that included all your trials & tribulations then I would reading one in which you had everything figured out. Maybe because I tend to get ideas and decide to try different things myself and it has proven costly (and worse) a time or two lol. If, however, I got to read that you'd just had the same idea, and then a few weeks later read how it had bitten you, well... You would have probably just saved MY butt.
But that remains your decision.
Also, I read how you didn't wish to give directions on building a p/s for reasons of safety and stated that there are books available. That is true and again, it's your decision, but... Have you ever seen someone do something really stupid because they got a few books and halfway through decided that the warnings were probably just because of liability issues, that they didn't really NEED to follow them, etc. - whereas if ol' crazy Fred showed you how to build something and pointed out what NOT to do with the two remaining fingers on his hand you were much more likely to heed his advice? Just a thought lmao. Not that I've ever learned things the hard way or anything...
I'll come back to this thread and reread your posts (and others') and check out your link. Right now I must be suffering the same ill that PitViper is - my tiny little brain is hurting lol.
Thanks for the information, everyone!
A journal-in-progress would still be great. Can't speak for others (wouldn't want to) but I'd spend a lot more time reading one that included all your trials & tribulations then I would reading one in which you had everything figured out. Maybe because I tend to get ideas and decide to try different things myself and it has proven costly (and worse) a time or two lol. If, however, I got to read that you'd just had the same idea, and then a few weeks later read how it had bitten you, well... You would have probably just saved MY butt.
But that remains your decision.
Also, I read how you didn't wish to give directions on building a p/s for reasons of safety and stated that there are books available. That is true and again, it's your decision, but... Have you ever seen someone do something really stupid because they got a few books and halfway through decided that the warnings were probably just because of liability issues, that they didn't really NEED to follow them, etc. - whereas if ol' crazy Fred showed you how to build something and pointed out what NOT to do with the two remaining fingers on his hand you were much more likely to heed his advice? Just a thought lmao. Not that I've ever learned things the hard way or anything...
I'll come back to this thread and reread your posts (and others') and check out your link. Right now I must be suffering the same ill that PitViper is - my tiny little brain is hurting lol.
Thanks for the information, everyone!
I don't know about these LED's. Most I've seen are leggy plants. But then I've never tried them myself. I'll stick with my hid's. But then we are creatures of habit. I hear alot of scary prices on these lights tho. This might help some future buyers. I get a price of 350$ delivered for a 150 watter. welthink Good luck with whatever you use. Just rememeber all these lights are back seat to good old dirt and sun. Good luck and stay down.
As far as a power supply for what I built, I'm running regulated voltage at just over 72volts from a 78 volt rail. I'll tell you this much, I started with a power amp used for music, and built it up from that, so first thing is to go to a used music store, or a pawn shop, find a power amplifier with at least double the wattage you wish to use. You have to go higher in wattage because these amps are for music, and not a constant high current usage, so the bigger the better. Next thing is to strip everything except the bridge rectifier, and the filter capacitors. (are you still with me) Then its time to find out just what the rail voltage will be. (do you have your meter handy) Now you will have to build a regulator because as you load up a raw power supply it will cause more ripple in the sorce, and bring the voltage down as the load is increased. You will need Zener diodes, and since you will be driving a lot of current I stepped up my current drivers from a TO-92 to a TO-220 to a TO-3 pre-driver to a set of TO-3 current drivers including current regulation resistors, and a bleedoff resistor as well. See I told you there's just no way to give you all the information to do this. You have to have a schematic, and know how to read it. It's actualy a simple power supply, but it's just a little bigger than what you may find in a schematic because most of them are for small projects, not 400 watt units. My power supply was tested at 7 amps for three hours, then 6 amps another 5 hours, then 5 amps for 24 hours. so 7 amps times 72 volts = 504 watts, but I think it can go higher, that's just what I tested it at.
While I also question the seller's claims of great (2'?) penetration into a canopy - unless their canopies are a lot skimpier than the ones most strive for lol - I do believe I read someone's grow report that stated that they had to raise their LED due to issues. Whether it was actually too strong for the plants or if it was just to get better distribution (as opposed to a bunch of separate colored dots), I can't remember.
I get great penetration, and I don't have my LED's more than about a foot and a half away, at least until they get really going. As far as leggy plants, the blues in the mix take care of that. This goes to what I've been saying all along. I don't know what those store bought LED systems are made with, but I can tell you this much. The high power LED's I'm using did penetrate, in fact, with the plants topping off around two feet tall, none of the bottom leaves looked even a little starved for light, and none of them dropped off. One last thing, the LED's are spred out and this makes a no shadow bath of light that gets to every part of every plant. I'm covering about a 4' x 4' area. I can't wait until this summer when I add the 34 deep red, and the 12 cool whites. My estimates for the total power at that time will be right aroung 350 watts at the LED's not counting any other power losses. The total power should be around 380 when losses are counted in.
Hi again guys. Just an update. The 2 300 watt leds in a 8 by 4 area are really doing what they should do. Of course the clones are looking good. I have never cloned before so this is the first time cloneing. I am tickled by thier reaction to the led and my seedling are doing well also. I notice growth every day. I have only been at this for 16 days and i am somewhat impressed cannot wait to see what it will be like in 40 more days. I am going to start 12/12 then to see how well led can do for flowers. But until then i will continue to update regularly so everyone will know what leds can or cannot do. I hope they are the best thing for indoor growing that has ever come out. But only time will tell for me and whoever reads this posting.
Abia out.
Abia out.
JonnyHempSeed
New Member
Techhead-
Thanks for the info! You've gotten me busy on yet another project...
Oh, and 1st LED bud harvested yesterday, will follow with pictures/weight when cured- Nice and big!! The full set is on week 6 and doing amazingly well. Will post pictures of full set soon also
Thanks for the info! You've gotten me busy on yet another project...
Oh, and 1st LED bud harvested yesterday, will follow with pictures/weight when cured- Nice and big!! The full set is on week 6 and doing amazingly well. Will post pictures of full set soon also
Howdy all
While my grow has not completed, I seem to be doing quite well on LED's.
I see allot of comments about the prices of the large LED systems. I don't understand why folks are looking at the most expensive beasts. I'm running 2 50watt LED's, and 3 13watt bulbs that I had initially tried. The 50watt panels were $130ish each and the 13's were $50 each.
Here's a quote from the supplier....
"Expensive L.E.D. UFO fixtures cost almost $600 and use 90 watts. Save yourself some serious cash and buy TWO of these panels, get 10 more watts of light and save about $400! "
The Prycon100 units are using 100watts for light (apparently another 25 for fans) and they cost 600 as well.
The panels I'm using are using 100watts total, and they only cost 260 total.
Anyway... my 2 cents.
Cheers
p.s. don't bother with the 13watt bulbs. While they're a nice form factor for a germination or what not, they're really cheaply build and the heat tends to degrade the glues used to hold them together over time.
While my grow has not completed, I seem to be doing quite well on LED's.
I see allot of comments about the prices of the large LED systems. I don't understand why folks are looking at the most expensive beasts. I'm running 2 50watt LED's, and 3 13watt bulbs that I had initially tried. The 50watt panels were $130ish each and the 13's were $50 each.
Here's a quote from the supplier....
"Expensive L.E.D. UFO fixtures cost almost $600 and use 90 watts. Save yourself some serious cash and buy TWO of these panels, get 10 more watts of light and save about $400! "
The Prycon100 units are using 100watts for light (apparently another 25 for fans) and they cost 600 as well.
The panels I'm using are using 100watts total, and they only cost 260 total.
Anyway... my 2 cents.
Cheers
p.s. don't bother with the 13watt bulbs. While they're a nice form factor for a germination or what not, they're really cheaply build and the heat tends to degrade the glues used to hold them together over time.
JonnyHempSeed
New Member
Abia-
Good call on the cloning. I have never had a higher success rate with cloning and germination than under these LEDs. 100% clones survived, 95% healthy, non-runted seed germination from all the different started strains. I remember reading back several pages that these are not effective for germination....not true.
As for light penetration, things down to the base are still very healthy...and all of the newer, stretchier growth since upping the Wattage is starting to put on very nice, evenly spaced bud that all gets alot of light. Very dense buds so far, very high resin production (special thanks to grandma's molasses!). I still think 300W+ is the way to go for really comparable results organically, but 200W should be good for hydro.
Good call on the cloning. I have never had a higher success rate with cloning and germination than under these LEDs. 100% clones survived, 95% healthy, non-runted seed germination from all the different started strains. I remember reading back several pages that these are not effective for germination....not true.
As for light penetration, things down to the base are still very healthy...and all of the newer, stretchier growth since upping the Wattage is starting to put on very nice, evenly spaced bud that all gets alot of light. Very dense buds so far, very high resin production (special thanks to grandma's molasses!). I still think 300W+ is the way to go for really comparable results organically, but 200W should be good for hydro.
JonnyHempSeed
New Member
Slowpuffer-
If you get this, sorry for not replying sooner...I don't have a ton of posts, and thusly can't PM that much. Email me at Freenorg5@gmail.com if you like.
Peace~
If you get this, sorry for not replying sooner...I don't have a ton of posts, and thusly can't PM that much. Email me at Freenorg5@gmail.com if you like.
Peace~
Excellent Idea Chronic Don.This is my first Hydro grow, so I don't feel that my first run should be used for an example, but I'm planning on doing a nice Ice grow after this. When it gets going, I'll do a log and create time lapse vids.
JUST WANTED TO UPDATE.
I AM VERY IMPRESSED. MY PLANTS ARE DOING QUITE WELL. I AM USING TWO 300 WATTERS IN A 4 X 8 ROOM WITH SUPPLEMENTAL CFLs.
I SEE VERY STRONG GROWTH EVERYDAY. AND THE LEAVES ARE HUGE. I AM GROWING BOTH CLONES AND SEEDLINGS. AND BOTH ARE DOING GREAT. PLANTED ON 03-05-09 NOW AT 03-27-09 DOUBLE TO TRIPLE GROWTH. BETTER THAN ANY HPS I HAVE EVER USED. CANNOT WAIT UNTIL 60 DAY S HAVE GONE BY TO START MY FLOWERING STAGE. I EXPECT BIG FLOWERS THAT WILL MATCH THE LEAVES.
BUT I WILL KEEP UPDATING AND HOPE THIS WILL LET EVERYONE WHO READS THESE THREADS A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF HOW LED WORK.
I WAS SKEPTICAL AND NOW I AM HOPFUL.
I AM VERY IMPRESSED. MY PLANTS ARE DOING QUITE WELL. I AM USING TWO 300 WATTERS IN A 4 X 8 ROOM WITH SUPPLEMENTAL CFLs.
I SEE VERY STRONG GROWTH EVERYDAY. AND THE LEAVES ARE HUGE. I AM GROWING BOTH CLONES AND SEEDLINGS. AND BOTH ARE DOING GREAT. PLANTED ON 03-05-09 NOW AT 03-27-09 DOUBLE TO TRIPLE GROWTH. BETTER THAN ANY HPS I HAVE EVER USED. CANNOT WAIT UNTIL 60 DAY S HAVE GONE BY TO START MY FLOWERING STAGE. I EXPECT BIG FLOWERS THAT WILL MATCH THE LEAVES.
BUT I WILL KEEP UPDATING AND HOPE THIS WILL LET EVERYONE WHO READS THESE THREADS A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF HOW LED WORK.
I WAS SKEPTICAL AND NOW I AM HOPFUL.
Pic's wood be nice,of your grow. All this tech talk is for the birds as far as I an concerned. Most pic's I seen are leggy. I have entertained the idea of going with leds a couple times. I have a dude that sells 600 watters for 800+afew$. Sound like a good price? I can get 300 watts for 375$. Anyone who has a layman term for color patterns it wood be helpful. Iffing you could IM me I wood thank ya alot. In a way hearing NASA uses them sounds promising. I can only hope they will know their shit. Times things to good to be true are just that. Stay Down
Wow. A 600 watter for a little over 800 is great but the two 300 watter for 375 is even better. I would do it if you can afford it. If you cannot could you tell me who and where and i will buy them.
I am absolutely sold on these lights. At least for vegging. I do not know about flower and bloom yet. I want to terminate
I am absolutely sold on these lights. At least for vegging. I do not know about flower and bloom yet. I want to terminate
SOME HOW I ENTERED MY POST EARLY. THIS IS A CONTINUE...........
BUT SO HERE AT THIS POINT I WANT TO TERMINATE. ONLY BECAUSE I AM GETTING PARANOID. SO I AM. BUT GUYS I AM SORRY FOR THIS BUT BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY.
BUT IN MY OPINION I THINK HI POWER LED GROW LIGHTS ARE WONDERFUL AS LONG AS THEY SUPPLEMENTED WITH CFL LIGHTS.
I ALSO AM GROWING OTHER FLOWERS WITH THEM AND THE LEAVES ARE BIGGER THE STALKS ARE STRONGER AND GROWTH IS IMPRESSIVE.
IF I WERE INTO THIS IN A BIG WAY I WOULD CERTAINLY USE LEDs.
MY LEDs ARE 8 TO 1. RED AND BLUE. WITH 5 24 WATT CFLs ( SUPPOSE TO EQUAL 100 WATT INCADESCENT)(1600 LUMENS EACH) FROM WALMART TO SUPPLEMENT LIGHT WAVE LENGTHS. IT HAS WORKED WONDERFULLY. AGAIN I DO NOT KNOW ABOUT FLOWERING AND WILL NOT GET THE OPPORTUNITY TO FIND OUT. BUT I WILL PLANT TOMATOES TO REPLACE MY CANNIBUS AND GROW FROM BEGINNING TO END. THAT WAY I CAN FIND OUT FOR MYSELF ABOUT FRUITING AND FLOWERING.
I DID TRY PANELS IN THE PAST. NOT WORTH A SHIT. BUT HI POWER LEDS WORK. AND WORK GREAT. BROAD LEAVES, STRONG STEM, AND FAST GROWTH.
I HOPE YOU GUYS HAVE BENEFITED FROM MY SHORT EXPERIENCE WITH THESE HI POWER LEDs . IN JUST THREE WEEKS CLONES WENT FROM NOTHING TO TRIPLE IN SIZE AND SEEDLINGS WENT FROM SEED TO A GOOD PLANT WORTH TRANSPLANTING.
THANKS TO THOSE WHO FOLLOWED MY POSTING AND I HOPE THIS INPUT WILL BENEFIT THOSE WHO USE IT.
THANKS AGAN
ABIA.
BUT SO HERE AT THIS POINT I WANT TO TERMINATE. ONLY BECAUSE I AM GETTING PARANOID. SO I AM. BUT GUYS I AM SORRY FOR THIS BUT BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY.
BUT IN MY OPINION I THINK HI POWER LED GROW LIGHTS ARE WONDERFUL AS LONG AS THEY SUPPLEMENTED WITH CFL LIGHTS.
I ALSO AM GROWING OTHER FLOWERS WITH THEM AND THE LEAVES ARE BIGGER THE STALKS ARE STRONGER AND GROWTH IS IMPRESSIVE.
IF I WERE INTO THIS IN A BIG WAY I WOULD CERTAINLY USE LEDs.
MY LEDs ARE 8 TO 1. RED AND BLUE. WITH 5 24 WATT CFLs ( SUPPOSE TO EQUAL 100 WATT INCADESCENT)(1600 LUMENS EACH) FROM WALMART TO SUPPLEMENT LIGHT WAVE LENGTHS. IT HAS WORKED WONDERFULLY. AGAIN I DO NOT KNOW ABOUT FLOWERING AND WILL NOT GET THE OPPORTUNITY TO FIND OUT. BUT I WILL PLANT TOMATOES TO REPLACE MY CANNIBUS AND GROW FROM BEGINNING TO END. THAT WAY I CAN FIND OUT FOR MYSELF ABOUT FRUITING AND FLOWERING.
I DID TRY PANELS IN THE PAST. NOT WORTH A SHIT. BUT HI POWER LEDS WORK. AND WORK GREAT. BROAD LEAVES, STRONG STEM, AND FAST GROWTH.
I HOPE YOU GUYS HAVE BENEFITED FROM MY SHORT EXPERIENCE WITH THESE HI POWER LEDs . IN JUST THREE WEEKS CLONES WENT FROM NOTHING TO TRIPLE IN SIZE AND SEEDLINGS WENT FROM SEED TO A GOOD PLANT WORTH TRANSPLANTING.
THANKS TO THOSE WHO FOLLOWED MY POSTING AND I HOPE THIS INPUT WILL BENEFIT THOSE WHO USE IT.
THANKS AGAN
ABIA.
