Living soil & Korean natural farming question

V

Virandell

Well-Known Member
Hi Guys I am making my first Living soil mix on friday recipe
10L moss peat
10L perlite
10L compost
2L worm casting

Kelp
Neem
Blood/fish/bone
Fish
Bone
Alfalfa
Rock dust
Gypsum
Garden lime

I wonder if I can do Korean natural farming with living soil ?
Like ffj fpj sst
Btw sorry for my English :)
 
Yes you can use Korean methods with LOS.

Actually don't know any other way to do it.

Try adding in some Malted Barley ground to a fine powder.
Malted Barley they use to brew beer with.

for the above mix 1-2 cups would work.

Dont forget Mycos
 
Virandell said:
Hi Guys I am making my first Living soil mix on friday recipe
10L moss peat
10L perlite
10L compost
2L worm casting

Kelp
Neem
Blood/fish/bone
Fish
Bone
Alfalfa
Rock dust
Gypsum
Garden lime

I wonder if I can do Korean natural farming with living soil ?
Like ffj fpj sst
Btw sorry for my English :)
Click to expand...
I see peat... I see compost.... i see perlite.... is there any actual soil (humus) in that mix? This is what makes soil, soil... and I don't see any here.
 
bobrown14 said:
Yes you can use Korean methods with LOS.

Actually don't know any other way to do it.

Try adding in some Malted Barley ground to a fine powder.
Malted Barley they use to brew beer with.

for the above mix 1-2 cups would work.

Dont forget Mycos
Click to expand...

Yee I will add mycos and I will buy malted barley powder aswell like u said thanks :)
I got also 2 more questions don't laugh guys :D
Can I put seedling in that soil right ?
Also can I keep the soil in the toy tub
Like that one ? It will not gonna go mouldy If the lid will be close ? I want keep it in the house
 
In time, I can see the compost and EWC and its microbes decomposing the organic matter down into the necessary humus, but the humification or mineralization process is a long one, and I can't see how this mix could have a useful cation exchange capacity before the compost had a chance to be converted by the microbes in the EWC. If one tried to grow in this mix before it had cooked for several months I would expect all sort of trouble... this mix would not be able to hold water well or buffer pH until it had cooked and produced the necessary inorganic minerals and polymers to hold the soil together.
Mixing your own soil is a great idea, but don't neglect the necessary cooking time. I doubt that this mix is ready to use right after mixing, or at least I would be scared to try it.
 
Emilya said:
In time, I can see the compost and EWC and its microbes decomposing the organic matter down into the necessary humus, but the humification or mineralization process is a long one, and I can't see how this mix could have a useful cation exchange capacity before the compost had a chance to be converted by the microbes in the EWC. If one tried to grow in this mix before it had cooked for several months I would expect all sort of trouble... this mix would not be able to hold water well or buffer pH until it had cooked and produced the necessary inorganic minerals and polymers to hold the soil together.
Mixing your own soil is a great idea, but don't neglect the necessary cooking time. I doubt that this mix is ready to use right after mixing, or at least I would be scared to try it.
Click to expand...

Naah I will give it around 5 weeks before I will plant somthing in it
 
Guy been doing very similar mix but instead he gave 50/50 wormcasting and compost and he been fine after 3 weeks I am sure ^^ anyway thanks for tips man :)))
 
bobrown14 said:
Yes you can use Korean methods with LOS.

Actually don't know any other way to do it.

Try adding in some Malted Barley ground to a fine powder.
Malted Barley they use to
Click to expand...
Emilya said:
trying not to be a downer here... but IMHO that is about half the minimum time necessary to mineralize that mix. Good luck though... and I want to watch and see if I can learn something here too.
Click to expand...
I got 2 more silly questions to you as I can see you know some stuff ^^
1: can I use malted barley powder to my mix now or should I give it later as a top dressing ?
2:can I keep my soil while it's cooking in the plastic toy tub with the lid ? (Just more comfy as I will be keepin it at home)
3:after soil is cooked I can easily germinate seeds in it ?
Sorry for questions but I I am just starting my journey ^^
 
Virandell said:
I got 2 more silly questions to you as I can see you know some stuff ^^
1: can I use malted barley powder to my mix now or should I give it later as a top dressing ?
2:can I keep my soil while it's cooking in the plastic toy tub with the lid ? (Just more comfy as I will be keepin it at home)
3:after soil is cooked I can easily germinate seeds in it ?
Sorry for questions but I I am just starting my journey ^^
Click to expand...
  1. Don't rely on these natural compounds to be able to feed the plants through top dressing... all you could possibly get with an application like that is whatever minerals might be water soluble in what you have applied.. but all the other goodness needs to be dealt with by microbes. The only way they can work is over time in the soil, or by creating microbes in an actively aerated compost tea that are specialized in breaking down that particular nutrient, and then applying that tea of active microbes and their food to the soil. Remember, in organic gardening you don't feed the plants... you feed the microbes, who in turn feed the plants.
  2. Yes, you can cook the soil in just about anything... I have (2) 25 gallon plastic trash cans that hold my soil out in my garage.
  3. After the soil is cooked I would recommend for seedlings, to put this new mineralized soil in the bottom 1/3 of a solo cup and then some regular potting soil in the top 2/3. This will give your seedling an easy start and then as its roots go deep and find the mineralized soil, adapt to it and really take off because of the life found below in that soil.
  4. To help speed up the humification and to supply abundant amounts of healthy microbial life that completes the feeding cycle, I highly recommend a new product... RealGrowers Recharge. This microbe pack that should be applied every 10 days or so, is an easy way to make sure that your rhizosphere stays incredibly alive and active, and I don't think that other than maybe some calmag later on, you shouldn't need to add anything else but good unchlorinated water.
 
Emilya said:
  1. Don't rely on these natural compounds to be able to feed the plants through top dressing... all you could possibly get with an application like that is whatever minerals might be water soluble in what you have applied.. but all the other goodness needs to be dealt with by microbes. The only way they can work is over time in the soil, or by creating microbes in an actively aerated compost tea that are specialized in breaking down that particular nutrient, and then applying that tea of active microbes and their food to the soil. Remember, in organic gardening you don't feed the plants... you feed the microbes, who in turn feed the plants.
  2. Yes, you can cook the soil in just about anything... I have (2) 25 gallon plastic trash cans that hold my soil out in my garage.
  3. After the soil is cooked I would recommend for seedlings, to put this new mineralized soil in the bottom 1/3 of a solo cup and then some regular potting soil in the top 2/3. This will give your seedling an easy start and then as its roots go deep and find the mineralized soil, adapt to it and really take off because of the life found below in that soil.
  4. To help speed up the humification and to supply abundant amounts of healthy microbial life that completes the feeding cycle, I highly recommend a new product... RealGrowers Recharge. This microbe pack that should be applied every 10 days or so, is an easy way to make sure that your rhizosphere stays incredibly alive and active, and I don't think that other than maybe some calmag later on, you shouldn't need to add anything else but good unchlorinated water.
Click to expand...
Thanks alot I got abit of biobizz light mix soil so I will do like u recommend :)
Also u think worms will gonna die if I will add them to my mix at the start ? A guy told me might be to "hot" and they might not surivie ^^
 
Virandell said:
Thanks alot I got abit of biobizz light mix soil so I will do like u recommend :)
Also u think worms will gonna die if I will add them to my mix at the start ? A guy told me might be to "hot" and they might not surivie ^^
Click to expand...
yes, i think until the soil is cooked down the mix will be a little hot, but as long as the worms can find decomposing organic material, they should be able to survive. Worms live in my compost bins and occasionally when building or tearing down a container I run across a couple of them. Even if they don't survive, their goodness will quickly go into the soil... you can't go wrong by adding worms.
 
Emilya said:
yes, i think until the soil is cooked down the mix will be a little hot, but as long as the worms can find decomposing organic material, they should be able to survive. Worms live in my compost bins and occasionally when building or tearing down a container I run across a couple of them. Even if they don't survive, their goodness will quickly go into the soil... you can't go wrong by adding worms.
Click to expand...
Right nice one lovely thank you for your help :) tomorrow I should get all stuff and I will start mixing I will make some good food for worms aswell :D
 
If I were you I would do it a bit differently.
First since you're doing a true Living Organic Soil and want to incorporate KNF techniques then I would go No-till.
15 gallon fabric pots IMO is absolute minimum and really 25 gallon fabric is better.
I would do more of a Clackamas Coots soil recipe and would use Rice Hulls, Biochar and Pumice in place of the perlite, perlite will break down over time plus always wants to float to the surface.

Fill the 25 gallon to within about 2" of the top, as you are filling the pot water each layer with water and Yucca as a wetting agent to make sure there are no hydrophobic dry spots.
Make sure you have at least 30% aeration for your soil mixture and the rice hulls which break down over time and give the soil silica, plus the biochar, precharged biochar which is soaked in a microbe tea and the pumice work really well in unison and have lots of nooks and crannies for oxygen.
Then start a cover crop of clover, vetch, peas for nitrogen fixers and for the roots to get the mycorrhazae to colonize.
Add a couple hundred worms.
Inoculate with mycorrhazae, my preference is Rootwise microbe complete.
Add a mulch layer until your cover crop fills in, add a few tablespoons of Gro-kashi on the top to start feeding the worms and to get some fungus and bacteria action going.
Just grow your soil for at least a month, preferably longer before planting.

If you start with a very nicely aged compost like the Oly Mountain fish compost which is aged for 2 years then a month is plenty for everything to meld together.
If you do it all fresh then would need much longer time for everything to come together, several months.

How to Make Soil from Scratch with 3 Proven Soil Building Recipes - Complete Instructions – BuildASoil

Downloadable PDF Guide. Have you ever wondered how soil companies find the perfect recipe? Learn the secret to building your perfect organic soil.
buildasoil.com
 
Nunyabiz said:
If I were you I would do it a bit differently.
First since you're doing a true Living Organic Soil and want to incorporate KNF techniques then I would go No-till.
15 gallon fabric pots IMO is absolute minimum and really 25 gallon fabric is better.
I would do more of a Clackamas Coots soil recipe and would use Rice Hulls, Biochar and Pumice in place of the perlite, perlite will break down over time plus always wants to float to the surface.

Fill the 25 gallon to within about 2" of the top, as you are filling the pot water each layer with water and Yucca as a wetting agent to make sure there are no hydrophobic dry spots.
Make sure you have at least 30% aeration for your soil mixture and the rice hulls which break down over time and give the soil silica, plus the biochar, precharged biochar which is soaked in a microbe tea and the pumice work really well in unison and have lots of nooks and crannies for oxygen.
Then start a cover crop of clover, vetch, peas for nitrogen fixers and for the roots to get the mycorrhazae to colonize.
Add a couple hundred worms.
Inoculate with mycorrhazae, my preference is Rootwise microbe complete.
Add a mulch layer until your cover crop fills in, add a few tablespoons of Gro-kashi on the top to start feeding the worms and to get some fungus and bacteria action going.
Just grow your soil for at least a month, preferably longer before planting.

How to Make Soil from Scratch with 3 Proven Soil Building Recipes - Complete Instructions – BuildASoil

Downloadable PDF Guide. Have you ever wondered how soil companies find the perfect recipe? Learn the secret to building your perfect organic soil.
buildasoil.com
Click to expand...
I just ordered everything what I need which is a shame I heard actually pumice is better but is expensive as **** in uk
But the rest I will do like u said thanks alot for advice :) that soil is for 4x 8l pots
 
Virandell said:
I just ordered everything what I need which is a shame I heard actually pumice is better but is expensive as **** in uk
But the rest I will do like u said thanks alot for advice :) that soil is for 4x 8l pots
Click to expand...
You're going to do this in 4, 2 gallon pots?
I don't think that's going to work, thats no where even close to enough soil for a Living Organic Soil to work properly.
 

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