Need help dissecting leaf

Strawhaze

420 Member
Hey,

So basically tried low stress training on my autoflower woke up finding my plant twisted and shriveled lol .. that was actually funny to see..

I am trying to identify why my leaves are at this colour and what is the reason for the plant to stay this small I’m approaching 27 days.

I can smell the stench when my hands is in contact with the plant or my nose is next to the plant otherwise can’t smell it.

I was shocked to see the amount of insects sticking on the trap..

IMG_3529.jpeg
 
Welcome to 420 @Strawhaze

I've never seen a plant attract so many houseflies before - is something rotting nearby or in your soil?
Might be an idea to repot your plant into some fresh soil, it's not looking too happy
Don’t get it confused these are houseflies images within the trap so they attract flies lol but actually I am having plant pests swarming in which the trap caught them all.
 
Hey straw haze.... So there is something definitely going on here... But luckily enough most of the issues with these plants can be resolved.

Would you mind giving us a little info on your grow? Such as lights, medium, fertilizer/s, and watering process. With these we can help narrow down the solution so we can get that baby healthy again.
 
Looks to most likely a pH problem, there are multiple issues top to bottom
What's the medium/feed/pH?

Medium is Turkish soil like the ones you find in the mountains.. I honestly just started a phosphorous nitrogen mix I’ve been told magnesium is already present in the soil and I couldn’t get my hands on atm locally .. it was doing fine until I added a bit of mix which started to act strangely.. I feed water when I see the top getting dry and this could be every 4 days .. though I watered yesterday and 2 days ago for fear it might dry as I was away.

Hey straw haze.... So there is something definitely going on here... But luckily enough most of the issues with these plants can be resolved.

Would you mind giving us a little info on your grow? Such as lights, medium, fertilizer/s, and watering process. With these we can help narrow down the solution so we can get that baby healthy again.

Lights im on a 18/6, I have nitrogen and phosphorus at the moment in a salt bag not diluted.. I pre mixed my soil with calcium nitrogen and phosphorus prior to planting and started feeding like 4 days ago.

Though I leave the lights 24 sometimes as I have seedlings coming up and was told autos aren’t really dependent on light.
 
Thank you.

So just a couple thoughts:

Amount of water should never be judged by the top of soil... The top can be bone dry while the bottom is completely saturated.... Which could cause a plethora of issues including root rot which would halt all nutrient absorption. The easiest way to tell if a plant needs water in soil from my experience is to physically lift the pot, if light water...if heavy then wait... I used a scale to measure when I first started. This would explain the droop and the bright green/yellow patches.

The dark leaves would tell me to much nitrogen is being absorbed. To much N can result in stunted growth, smaller less potent yields, and if left untreated can kill the plant. To remedy this you can add mulch to soil and it'll remove some of it.... Also a "flush" with ph'd water (WHEN ITS TIME TO WATER AGAIN) can also help remove some of it....along with nutrient salt build up in the pot/soil.

That's all I can weigh in on personally, I'm sure a few experienced growers will be along shortly to help.
 
Explain…. 🤔
It’s soil from turkey but it’s the normal soil used for flowers and such it seems it comes from the mountains since I used to hike a lot and I know this type of soil .. it’s dense though not fluffy.

My water PH is 6.5 it is said on the water bottle.

I guess I’ll have to stop watering now until it dries up .. 5 gallon pot was already moist before planting and when I put my finger seems the case.

I’m growing in my basement and live in a country that is like California sand and hot so as a precaution I decided to start in the basement which seems to stay cool when outside gets 30 degrees recently. Got a fan on to remove the moisture in the air and all this but seems like the plants don’t run out of water in the pot as quick as I thought so because of these conditions .. am I right ?
 
it’s dense though not fluffy.
I would add some pumice or perlite to that soil in order to hive it some aeration.

My water PH is 6.5 it is said on the water bottle.
I would lower this to 6-6.2 if possible.

I pre mixed my soil with calcium nitrogen and phosphorus prior to planting and started feeding like 4 days ago.
Not sure what nutrient content that soil was before you mixed in some nutrients, but you may be causing nutrient lockout by adding more nutrients before and after planting so early on.

I guess I’ll have to stop watering now until it dries up .. 5 gallon pot was already moist before planting and when I put my finger seems the case.
Yea I would too. That amount of soil can hold a lot of water and nutrients for quite sometime specially for a plant that size.

I decided to start in the basement which seems to stay cool when outside gets 30 degrees recently. Got a fan on to remove the moisture in the air
Depending on the temperature of the basement, moisture in the air at this stage is recommended. Just make sure it’s not too cool with a high relative humidity, because that is a recipe for mold. Keep your temps between 26-27 degrees with a RH of 70%-80% with constant air movement for the rest of veg. Look at a VPD for reference.

What’s this yellowing leaf cause ??
The nutrient lockout is causing iron, sulfur, and magnesium deficiencies. This doesn’t mean that these elements are not present, but simply not allowed to enter into the plant due to stress. Dry back for a couple of days until the pot begins to feel lighter.

Hot Tip:
When you’re ready to water again, water around the base of the plant and edge of the pot. This will allow roots to stretch outwards in search of water.
 
I would add some pumice or perlite to that soil in order to hive it some aeration.


I would lower this to 6-6.2 if possible.


Not sure what nutrient content that soil was before you mixed in some nutrients, but you may be causing nutrient lockout by adding more nutrients before and after planting so early on.


Yea I would too. That amount of soil can hold a lot of water and nutrients for quite sometime specially for a plant that size.


Depending on the temperature of the basement, moisture in the air at this stage is recommended. Just make sure it’s not too cool with a high relative humidity, because that is a recipe for mold. Keep your temps between 26-27 degrees with a RH of 70%-80% with constant air movement for the rest of veg. Look at a VPD for reference.


The nutrient lockout is causing iron, sulfur, and magnesium deficiencies. This doesn’t mean that these elements are not present, but simply not allowed to enter into the plant due to stress. Dry back for a couple of days until the pot begins to feel lighter.

Hot Tip:
When you’re ready to water again, water around the base of the plant and edge of the pot. This will allow roots to stretch outwards in search of water.
I appreciate the help.

I just purchased 10-10-10 nutrient couldn't find lower than that .. what would be the best dosage? i put .25ml in a 50ml bottle so 1 liter .5 ml

if growing in a basement is it normal that the soil stays humid? like only after 4 days from last watering would someone notice it is starting to dry up so it is taking a bit long?
 
Heh Straw!

Hmm see few things that might help your grow game.

Weed plants don’t do well when placed down in a bowl shape, there is insufficient airflow across top of soil when planted in a bowl type situation. Suggest next time fill container to the top or use fabric smart pots where you can roll edges down.

In a basement be sure to elevate plant above concrete floor, a covered or indoor concrete slab stays about 55 degrees year round. Cold feet is a real thing and can cause slow growth. For leds you want to run grow room enviro close to 80-84 Fahrenheit

Water…Hardside or plastic containers cause the soil to hold water longer, fabric smart pots breathe all around the perimeter so shorter wet dry cycles.. Elevate your plant above a drip tray and use fan to move air underneath. I’d suggest removing all but 1 of the sticky traps then add a fan above canopy to create better airflow on topside. Hang the other fly traps above the canopy but where they don’t block light. Light breeze keeps girls gently swaying in the wind which helps build stronger stems and improves transpiration where the plant sheds water thru stomata

It’s a small plant so it’s not using a lot of water just yet, now the remaining water must sit for days & days until it slowly evaporates but before that happens you are watering again. More water does not equate to faster growth. Roots can’t breathe in continuously wet soil, it slows down growth and can lead to pests or root rot. Couple cool quotes… never water a wet soil…. don’t water where your roots are, water where you want them to grow.

The best & cheapest water meter is a bamboo wood skewer or wood dowel rod. To be effective it must hit bottom of the container. Press it into soil at an angle so the bottom of the stick winds up close to center of container under rootball, after 30 minutes or so there should be visible line of water marked into the dipstick.

Autoflowers, they do their own thing and don’t bounce back well from mistakes. If you want better control of growth then suggest photoperiods next time.

Leaf color is dark indicating plenty of nitrogen, tiny bit of tip burn. New growth comes in with lighter shade of green so there’s a lot of contrast with the light dark thing going on.
 
Heh Straw!

Hmm see few things that might help your grow game.

Weed plants don’t do well when placed down in a bowl shape, there is insufficient airflow across top of soil when planted in a bowl type situation. Suggest next time fill container to the top or use fabric smart pots where you can roll edges down.

In a basement be sure to elevate plant above concrete floor, a covered or indoor concrete slab stays about 55 degrees year round. Cold feet is a real thing and can cause slow growth. For leds you want to run grow room enviro close to 80-84 Fahrenheit

Water…Hardside or plastic containers cause the soil to hold water longer, fabric smart pots breathe all around the perimeter so shorter wet dry cycles.. Elevate your plant above a drip tray and use fan to move air underneath. I’d suggest removing all but 1 of the sticky traps then add a fan above canopy to create better airflow on topside. Hang the other fly traps above the canopy but where they don’t block light. Light breeze keeps girls gently swaying in the wind which helps build stronger stems and improves transpiration where the plant sheds water thru stomata

It’s a small plant so it’s not using a lot of water just yet, now the remaining water must sit for days & days until it slowly evaporates but before that happens you are watering again. More water does not equate to faster growth. Roots can’t breathe in continuously wet soil, it slows down growth and can lead to pests or root rot. Couple cool quotes… never water a wet soil…. don’t water where your roots are, water where you want them to grow.

The best & cheapest water meter is a bamboo wood skewer or wood dowel rod. To be effective it must hit bottom of the container. Press it into soil at an angle so the bottom of the stick winds up close to center of container under rootball, after 30 minutes or so there should be visible line of water marked into the dipstick.

Autoflowers, they do their own thing and don’t bounce back well from mistakes. If you want better control of growth then suggest photoperiods next time.

Leaf color is dark indicating plenty of nitrogen, tiny bit of tip burn. New growth comes in with lighter shade of green so there’s a lot of contrast with the light dark thing going on.
Hey lad,

thanks for your time! I figured this would be the issue concerning basements, i will find a mat or slab to put onto.

Unfortunately, this high-tech material isn't available where I am and pots are the most common since I'm in a very hot country.

thanks for providing the link I have had a look, and since the soil is rich in nitrogen ill just have to use magnes and phospherous for this plant.

i managed to find lighter soil coco like for my other plants so its a move in a good direction. it actually bounced back from being shrivelled but i feel like its getting too much light so i upped the light a couple inches higher. i started feeding 0.25 10-10-10 and seems happiness is on the way.
 
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