Organic Round 2 - 3 x Confidential Cheese - 3 x OG #18 and 3 x White Russian

[253Chiefin]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

Can someome tell me whats the deal with the dark purple redish veins running through the fan leaves and the swollen leaf margins???

i dealt with the same exact problem randomly one day. i have a hunch on what it could be and a suggestion to follow. I sprayed cologne on me in front of my fan one afternoon then left. i came home, closed the grow room for lights out and layed down in bed. i have a fan in my grow room pushing air out during the night and all night i kept smelling cologne but i wasnt wearing my street clothes anymore and by now i'd be used to the smell. well i put my nose next to the grow room and i could smell cologne coming off my plants. i was real worried.

the next morning i opened the grow room to see my plants droopy and purple stemmed to the max. night before i had green stems on fan leaves now i had the purple red you described.

one thing i recently over heard is that purple stems mean phospheras defecincy. i'll look that up im curious

 

[GimmeTheGoods]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

Woe thats crazy chief,,,,i too was thinking phosphorus too bit not sure cuz another.def mentions purple.redish veins too.

 

[253Chiefin]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

man i wish i could give you a remedy for it. i looked the topic up and cant get enough solid evidence of what causes it to tell you what you should do. i've read 30+ different remedys for it on google and the only solution i can come up with is this.....if you dont know the remedy dont throw out an opinion lol it litters google with wrong info lol.

heres something i feel comfortable saying since it doesnt involve a remedy just a comfort blanket so-to-speak

someone posted that its normal in alot of grows that healthy plants will get red stemmed for no reason apparently. and the other opinion is sometimes there's something wrong but nothing big enough to cause damage permanent damage or hurt your plant and your plant will get better. thats something i sometimes feel about the red stem problem. i always get it just nothing bad ever comes from it if i fix my water and nutes and get the PH right.

sorry for the long response buddy

 

[preprodigy]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

Whats up with these OG Kush #18's????? All of em have real dark purple redish veins through the leaves and the stems. Also one of em has leaves that have swollen leaf margins.

Hey gimmie, its been a while, i only had a few minutes so i thought id take a look, this is all i could find. hope it helps.. (read number 5 in blue)


Cannabis Nutrient Disorders


Nutrient disorders are caused by too much or too little of one or several nutrients being available. These nutrients are made available between a pH range of 5 and 7 and a total dissolved solids (TDS) range of 800 to 3000 PPM. Maintaining these conditions is the key to proper nutrient uptake.

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Nutrients Over twenty elements are needed for a plant to grow. Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are absorbed from the air and water. The rest of the elements, called mineral nutrients, are dissolved in the nutrient solution. The primary or macro- nutrients (nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)) are the elements plants use the most. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are secondary nutrients and used in smaller amounts. Iron (Fe), sulfur (S), manganese (Mn), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), zinc (Zn) and copper (Cu) are micro-nutrients or trace elements. Trace elements are found in most soils. Rockwool (hydroponic) fertilizers must contain these trace elements, as they do not normally exist in sufficient quantities in rockwool or water. Other elements also play a part in plant growth. Aluminum, chlorine, cobalt, iodine, selenium, silicon, sodium and vanadium are not normally included in nutrient mixes. They are required in very minute amounts that are usually present as impurities in the water supply or mixed along with other nutrients.

*NOTE: The nutrients must be soluble (able to be dissolved in water) and go into solution.

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Macro-nutrients Nitrogen (N) is primary to plant growth. Plants convert nitrogen to make proteins essential to new cell growth. Nitrogen is mainly responsible for leaf and stem growth as well as overall size and vigor. Nitrogen moves easily to active young buds, shoots and leaves and slower to older leaves. Deficiency signs show first in older leaves. They turn a pale yellow and may die. New growth becomes weak and spindly. An abundance of nitrogen will cause soft, weak growth and even delay flower and fruit production if it is allowed to accumulate.

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Phosphorus (P) is necessary for photosynthesis and works as a catalyst for energy transfer within the plant. Phosphorus helps build strong roots and is vital for flower and seed production. Highest levels of phosphorus are used during germination, seedling growth and flowering. Deficiencies will show in older leaves first. Leaves turn deep green on a uniformly smaller, stunted plant. Leaves show brown or purple spots.

NOTE: Phosphorus flocculates when concentrated and combined with calcium.

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Potassium (K) activates the manufacture and movement of sugars and starches, as well as growth by cell division. Potassium increases chlorophyll in foliage and helps regulate stomata openings so plants make better use of light and air. Potassium encourages strong root growth, water uptake and triggers enzymes that fight disease. Potassium is necessary during all stages of growth. It is especially important in the development of fruit. Deficiency signs of potassium are: plants are the tallest and appear healthy. Older leaves mottle and yellow between veins, followed by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. Flower and fruit drop are common problems associated with potassium deficiency. Potassium is usually locked out by high salinity.

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Secondary Nutrients Magnesium (Mg) is found as a central atom in the chlorophyll molecule and is essential to the absorption of light energy. Magnesium aids in the utilization of nutrients, neutralizes acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant. Deficiency signs of magnesium are: Older leaves yellow from the center outward, while veins remain green on deficient plants. Leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant.

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Calcium (Ca) is fundamental to cell manufacture and growth. Soil gardeners use dolomite lime, which contains calcium and magnesium, to keep the soil sweet or buffered. Rockwool gardeners use calcium to buffer excess nutrients. Calcium moves slowly within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth. Consequently young growth shows deficiency signs first. Deficient leaf tips, edges and new growth will turn brown and die back. If too much calcium is applied early in life, it will stunt growth as well. It will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium.

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Trace Elements Sulphur (S) is a component of plant proteins and plays a role in root growth and chlorophyll supply. Distributed relatively evenly with largest amounts in leaves which affects the flavor and odor in many plants. Sulphur, like calcium, moves little within plant tissue and the first signs of a deficiency are pale young leaves. Growth is slow but leaves tend to get brittle and stay narrower than normal.

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Iron (Fe) is a key catalyst in chlorophyll production and is used in photosynthesis. A lack of iron turns leaves pale yellow or white while the veins remain green. Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and moves slowly within the plant. Always use chelated (immediately available to the plant) iron in nutrient mixes.

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Manganese (Mg) works with plant enzymes to reduce nitrates before producing proteins. A lack of manganese turns young leaves a mottled yellow or brown.

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Zinc (Z) is a catalyst and must be present in minute amounts for plant growth. A lack of zinc results in stunting, yellowing and curling of small leaves. An excess of zinc is uncommon but very toxic and causes wilting or death.

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Copper (C) is a catalyst for several enzymes. A shortage of copper makes new growth wilt and
causes irregular growth. Excesses of copper causes sudden death. Copper is also used as a fungicide and wards off insects and diseases because of this property.

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Boron (B) is necessary for cells to divide and protein formation. It also plays an active role in
pollination and seed production.

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Molybdenum (Mn) helps form proteins and aids the plant's ability to fix nitrogen from the air. A
deficiency causes leaves to turn pale and fringes to appear scorched. Irregular leaf growth may also result.

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These nutrients are mixed together to form a complete plant fertilizer. The mix contains all the
nutrients in the proper ratios to give plants all they need for lush, rapid growth. The fertilizer is
dissolved in water to make a nutrient solution. Water transports these soluble nutrients into contact with the plant roots. In the presence of oxygen and water, the nutrients are absorbed through the root hairs.

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The above text is excerpted from George Van Pattens' excellent book "Gardening: The Rockwool Book".




Key on Nutrient Disorders
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before
making major changes.

1) a) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2.
b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #3.

3) a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #4.

4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.
b) If not, keep reading…

5) a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and
leaves may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #6.

6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or
insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.
b) If not, go to #7.

7) a) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray,
brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N).
b) If not, go to #8…

8) a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >>Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely).
b) If not, go to #9.

9) a) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.
b) If not, go to #10...

10) a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.
b) If not, #11.

11) a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf
margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency.
b) If not, #12.

12) a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn)
deficiency.
b) If not, #13.

13) a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.
b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.


Solutions to Nutrient Deficiencies
The Nutrients:

Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since cannabis uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.

Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.

Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use
chelated Mn.

Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the
nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.


Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is
"hard," usually due to too
many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more
than around 200ppm (parts
per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants
have a chronic problem. Ask
your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH,
TDS, and mineral levels (as
well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area.
This is a common request,
especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular
water filters will not reduce a
high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and
de-ionizers will. A digital TDS
meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool
for monitoring the nutrient
levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it.
They run about $40 and up.

General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of
thumb is to use more
nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact
opposite during the flowering
period. For the veg. period try a N:K ratio of about 108 (which of
course is the same ratio as
2016), and for flowering plants, 48. Check the pH after adding
nutrients. If you use a reservoir,
keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for
TDS levels is as follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants =
400-800 ppm; large plants =
900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These
numbers are just a guideline, and
many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain
nutrients are "invisible" to TDS
meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual
nutrient levels. When in
doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for
feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or
radish plants nearby for comparison.

PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5
(in rockwool, 5.5-6.1) .
Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at
a high pH (alkaline) above
7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in
acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap
water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic
matter in them tend to get too acidic,
which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy,
and generally the more you pay
the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from
aquarium stores are inexpensive,
but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a
waterproof one. You won't regret it.

Other Things…

Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas,
don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the
plant will be able to take cooler
temps than it otherwise could.

Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled,
dry, and look burnt, mimicking a
nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you
hold it at the top of the plants.
Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be
kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F
(33) if you add additional CO2.

Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is
usually fine.

Mold and fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower
the humidity and
increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves,
wherever they are. Keep your
garden clean.

Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.

Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright
lights, causing small white,
yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some
sprays can also cause
chemical reactions.

Insufficient light -- tall, stretching plants are usually from using the
wrong kind of light.. Don't use
regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis.
Invest in fluorescent lighting
(good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for
good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.

Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or
the stem may not be firmly
touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much
fertilizer can shrivel or wilt
clones - plain tap water is fine.



CANNABIS NUTRITIENS



but then again, the rest of the plant is looking really healthy, might just be genetics, i know from reading others journals asking about this issue it turned out that people deal with this allot, and nothing ever really came of it. as long as your plants continue to grow strong and healthy i wouldnt let it stress you too much!

although pin pointing the source of this would be nice.

 

[GimmeTheGoods]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

Thanks guys I appreciate it.
@Chief,not long at all n I do feel a bit relieved now. I got the same results as u on google,just a bunch of nothing! Lol. Ima just give the girls a bit of K along with some calmag n see what happens.
@Prodigy,where the fuk you hiding at these days!?!?

 

[MissBud]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

Looking smooth as ever GTG!


I second that as well, where the heck have you been preprodigy?!??

 

[253Chiefin]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

yea buddy that cal mag and K dosage outta give them some color. its weird, when i typed that i felt like i was typing it for hours then when i hit send it was only a few sentences lol. well keep the updates coming i hope this problem gets sorted out

 

[GimmeTheGoods]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

Quick lil update,,,
Today is day 30 of veg n I decided to flip the switch today cuz I wanna keep em small. I have lst'd all of em n have a pretty even canopy sitting 25" away from my light. Im hoping on 18-20oz off this harvest.

 

[GimmeTheGoods]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

What up doe

 

[GimmeTheGoods]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

Day 2 of 12/12 looking beautiful!!!

 

[GimmeTheGoods]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

Lst to the max!!!!! Hopefully I dnt get overwhelmed in these next two weeks with all the stretching,,,

 

[GimmeTheGoods]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

No love round here?

 

[253Chiefin]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

No love round here?

the loves right here man! since the last pics i've seen from you they have gotten noticably bigger, your LST wll give u great results! your going to have some huge plants bro!

 

[GimmeTheGoods]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

^^^ my dude!!! Thanks bro

 

[preprodigy]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

wow gimmie! your plants look so fucking healthy! you're definitely doing your thing!! =) mad props.

haha, man ive been so god damn busy latley, i dont even remember the definition of sleep. whats thats saying?!, sleep is for the dead haha.

between the garden, my girl, finally getting my sisters car 100% again, work and putting in time down at the machine shop to build up my TT motor, fuck im lucky if i ever get time to eat lol...

the worst part is all this B.S and it shows in the garden. i droped that last soil crop. Just wasnt working out for me. then i spent a little too much time at my girls place and ending up loosing 3 pineapples and 3 cherry berrys that were in rockwool cubes.

i tell you, lately it seems like if it wasnt for bad luck i wouldnt have any luck at all lmao, but its all good! im not quitting!! all the greats say that the majority of people only fail because they get frustrated by there previous stumbling blocks and then give up just before they achieve there success.. well im not giving up or giving in.

I spent the last few days finally cleaning up after the last two months of chaos and will be starting fresh with a new DWC journal soon! im down to my last 4 oz's hahaha. and we know how quick that shit can go! I should really cut back on my habbit, wait what?! nahhhh hahaha, ima just need to grow more bigger plants! muhahaha

 

[GimmeTheGoods]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

Damn Prodigy that fukin sucks bro,,,,,,sorry to hear that. This just means youll bounce back stronger homie! Atleast u gettin that quality time in wit the ol lady tho.
To everyone,,,,yesterday I fuked up pretty bad I was retieing shit down n broke the top off one of the og18s,i lost the top 4 sections n it was a conf female. Hopefully shell bounce back. Got another 4 conf females too. Pics tonite, they look beast! Lst is where its at!!!

 

[preprodigy]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

Damn Prodigy that fukin sucks bro,,,,,,sorry to hear that. This just means youll bounce back stronger homie! Atleast u gettin that quality time in wit the ol lady tho.
To everyone,,,,yesterday I fuked up pretty bad I was retieing shit down n broke the top off one of the og18s,i lost the top 4 sections n it was a conf female. Hopefully shell bounce back. Got another 4 conf females too. Pics tonite, they look beast! Lst is where its at!!!

yeah man, it is what it is and right now its water under the bridge. I got 4 blue berry seeds cracked and in rockwool, there in a clone dome with 4 clones off one of the semi surviving pineapple chunks before it passed. im hoping they ounce back just to keep that strain.

Dont worrie about that one that got chopped, yeah it'll be some stress, esp. cause they just transferred to 12/12 but just think of it as a pre mature topping. allot of people with top and lolli pop after there first wk into transition. maybe now that one plant will grow 2 or 3 monster tops compared to the other larger plants that have the same size root structure but have more buds site to produce colas at so in retrospect those buds would have to be smaller because theres more baby buds feeding off the same amount of nutes compared to that topped plant that'll have a couple monster trophy colas now haha.. shits gonna be sick



so after letting all your strains mature and come to age so to speak with cureing
what strain would you pick from your last grow as your favorite and why? also feel free to post some more nug shots with macros man, them bitches where frosty as fuck! TOP SHELF =)

 

[preprodigy]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

hey gimmie, how are those ladies coming along? that topped one making it??

 

[preprodigy]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

hey brother whats good?! looks like your starting to follow in my foots steps lol, im horrible at keeping an up to date jurnal. I have got shit going again though, just finished that veg tent we talked about way back, no i can finally get a rotation going.

Right now i have a mini bush of some Pineapple chunck. Im currently training her to be another beast! =) hopefully another 13+ oz's.

and in my veg tent i got some seeds from my last BlueBerry grow. shit came out so good i decided to plant more. and the fucked up part is she hermied and it was still bomb ass bud. im really hoping that the hermie genetics skipped a generation, otherwise its gonna be another quarantine grow haha

hope every things going good out your way! how did that one plant that accidentally got chopped in half work out? she blow the fuck up or what?

 

[GimmeTheGoods]

Re: Organic Round 2: 3xConfidential Cheese, 3xOG#18 and 3xWhite Russian

My apologies to everyone for goin ghost,,,last time round I mentioned I had broke my phone n I ended up getting a iPhone for a deal but I can't post pictures on here with it!!! Wtf!?!? So I been like fuk it but now I'm in a bad place I don't know what kind of deficiency I got goin on I thought it was a 'P' deficiency n tried correcting yesterday but I gotta wait cuz I'm in soil but it could also be a possible magnesium def or a 'K' def as I been real real light in feeding with nutes which I now kinda regret. I'm on day 20 of flower n need to fix this shit before I fuk up my yield n end up harvesting super early,,,,