Please help!

If it's chlorinated, you shouldn't have to boil it, because there won't be anything alive in it (that's why they chlorinate it, lol). As for removing the chlorine, you can let it sit in an open container overnight, for a couple hours outside in sunlight, or pour a couple capfuls of 3% H₂O₂ (regular consumer-strength hydrogen peroxide) into a gallon of the stuff, stick the cap on the jug, and give it a little shake for a few seconds. As mentioned, you can't remove chloramine using the same methods.



I've never been a fan of "homemade" pH adjusters. They don't seem to be as stable, and there's not as much that's of use to plants. Commercial pH down, for example, is largely phosphoric acid - and plants do use phosphorous.



I used it some in DWC and observed that I had to use some kind of calcium supplement, like calcium nitrate, and Epsom salt (or pay for one of the "fancy" (expensive ;) ) "Ca/Mg" products). With tap water, just a little Epsom salt. I remember talking myself into spending money on store-bought (machine) water "to treat my plants right" - and then noticing the telltale leaf tissue necrosis of a calcium deficiency, lol; I ended up feeling mildly stupid over that. I wouldn't mind having a bunch to mix with the tap water here now, though. Or finding that a gardening store had mistakenly sent me a big bottle of "hardwater micro."



Cannabis seems to use a good bit of nitrogen during the first 40% of the flowering period. They call it "the stretch," after all.



That sucks - but probably more so for those "cannabis nutrient" companies than for you. I used General Hydroponics' three-part Flora series for years, and they listed everything from apples to zucchinis (lol) on the label, but not cannabis. Plants aren't like children - as long as you provide what the plants need, and in the correct ratios/strengths, they'll "eat it and be happy about it." For the less nutritionally-sensitive strains, I don't think we even have to be all that close to "the optimum." I've used African violet food during flowering before when I had nothing else and needed something to get me by until I could restock. And a lot of us have successfully used Osmocote Plus controlled-release (time-release?) general purpose plant fertilizer.



I might be mistaken, here, but: I don't think it's that the chlorinated water harms plants directly (although I doubt it could be considered to be good for them); I think it's that chlorine and chloramine in the water reacts with the nutrients we feed them. And in that regard, I consider chloramine far worse.



Some people add extra lime to that stuff. That's probably more important if a plant is going to be in the soil for a longer period of time.



It's "hotter" than Happy Frog soil. I don't know that it's too hot for seedlings, per se. Remember, there are thousands of strains of cannabis, not just one. Some African landrace sativas, evolved/naturalized/whatever to thrive in soils that have very poor nutritive characteristics... seems like some of them will burn if you walk past them whilst carrying a bottle of nutrient. Other strains are known to be "heavy feeders." So, yes, it's entirely possible that it is capable of burning some seedlings. But I don't believe it's nearly the issue that it has been made out to be. Could be like... You grow a cannabis plant and find some opposite-sex flowers. You post about it on your favorite cannabis forum. Before you go to bed that night, 27 people have read that and told their friends - online at cannabis forums, of course - not to grow that strain by that breeder because it's well-known for being a hermaphrodite-prone strain. By the time you wake up the next morning, a couple hundred people have posted everywhere they can think of that people shouldn't buy any strains from that breeder because everyone knows a lot of his strains are known to turn "hermie." Meanwhile, lol, maybe you have a good think and decide, yeah, that particular plant must be a hermaphrodite - or maybe you decide that you've simply stressed the sh!t out of it. And maybe... If you line 100 people up in a row and whisper to the first person, "I'm going to grill some hot dogs when my girlfriend comes over this evening - pass it on," by the time it gets to the 100th person, it'll be so mangled that he'll run to the phone and call the police to report that there's going to be a big orgy at your house and you're going to molest a bunch of dogs before torturing them over hot coals. <SHRUGS> The human factor can sometimes muddle things up "a bit."

Could be shock, I suppose, if someone starts a seed in "seed-starting soil" (generally really light and probably not chock full of nutrients) and then transplant into a relatively hot soil. Might be worth starting 100 seeds (too allow for phenotype/etc. variation), half in FFOF and half in something else, then transplant the "something else" ones into FFOF at three days above ground, seven days above ground, 14 days above ground, and 21 days above ground, and observe which sets (if any) seem to have some kind of issue.

I'm just rambling. I... do that :p .
I just want to add that I planted this Gorilla Candy strain for my first grow (as well as Blue Dream) but at that time I did not know that the GC strain was prone to turn hermie and I may have stressed it out enough for it to turn but I did some research and I do know about this strain prone to turn hermie but I’ve always liked a challenge and experimenting, the reason I went ahead and grew these hermie clones is because I wanted to experiment a little and not just with growing clones. Besides the pain in the *** job of removing the pollen sacks I wanted to test mainly for quality and seed production compared to my first grow. It looks and smells like it’s going to be decent quality though!
This grow was basically for fun. If you actually noticed the hermies then good eyes!, I was wondering if and when someone was going to say something about that lol.
 
I just want to add that I planted this Gorilla Candy strain for my first grow (as well as Blue Dream) but at that time I did not know that the GC strain was prone to turn hermie and I may have stressed it out enough for it to turn but I did some research and I did know about this strain prone to turn hermie before I cloned the first plant but I’ve always liked a challenge and experimenting, the reason I went ahead and grew these hermie clones is because I wanted to experiment a little and not just with growing clones. Besides the pain in the *** job of removing the pollen sacks I wanted to test mainly for quality and seed production compared to my first grow. It looks and smells like it’s going to be decent quality though!
This grow was basically for fun. If you actually noticed the hermies then good eyes!, I was wondering if and when someone was going to say something about that lol.
 
I was told that Ocean Forest might be too rich for seedlings! Have you used strictly Ocean Forest soil for seedlings before?
Here ya go...these are basic steps that insure a better chance of success...It's what most breeders (seed companies) recommend. And what I do every time.
1) Place seeds in a solo cup, filled half way with spring water, let soak for 18 to 24 hours. They should sink to the bottom, if not, use the tip of your finger to push down until they are all on bottom.
2) Place soaked seeds into a wet paper towel and put into a dark warm place. It may take a day or two but they will start showing tap roots.
3) Once tap root is half to three quarters of an inch, place into "Seedling Starter Mix" (of your choice) make sure starter mix is thoroughly moist. Push your index finger into moist soil up to first knuckle, then gently drop seed into that hole and cover...be gentle.
4) Keep top of soil (starter mix) moist with a clean spray bottle filled with same spring water, until they pop the surface.
5) Once they pop surface, keep spraying "around" the baby, not on her for a least 5 to 7 days.
6) Then transplant into what ever soil you're using :thumb:

NOTE: Never put seedlings into any soil other than starter mix, it could burn, stunt, or kill them. And yes you could water with Spring Water, but like I said I use my tap water, and let it set for 24 hours.

Peace and good grows to ya :passitleft:
 
Here ya go...these are basic steps that insure a better chance of success...It's what most breeders (seed companies) recommend. And what I do every time.
1) Place seeds in a solo cup, filled half way with spring water, let soak for 18 to 24 hours. They should sink to the bottom, if not, use the tip of your finger to push down until they are all on bottom.
2) Place soaked seeds into a wet paper towel and put into a dark warm place. It may take a day or two but they will start showing tap roots.
3) Once tap root is half to three quarters of an inch, place into "Seedling Starter Mix" (of your choice) make sure starter mix is thoroughly moist. Push your index finger into moist soil up to first knuckle, then gently drop seed into that hole and cover...be gentle.
4) Keep top of soil (starter mix) moist with a clean spray bottle filled with same spring water, until they pop the surface.
5) Once they pop surface, keep spraying "around" the baby, not on her for a least 5 to 7 days.
6) Then transplant into what ever soil you're using :thumb:

NOTE: Never put seedlings into any soil other than starter mix, it could burn, stunt, or kill them. And yes you could water with Spring Water, but like I said I use my tap water, and let it set for 24 hours.

Peace and good grows to ya :passitleft:
Great idea! I’ll do that. Thanks!
 
Thank you :hug:
I've been growing since '07, and I started in Miracle Grow (cuz I didn't know better) then I tried hydro, cuz it was cool :rofl:, then I went to organics, while also trying hempy (all perlite) and coco (both are treated like hydro) and then I found FFOF and their nutrient line, and I haven't looked back :slide: I'm still organic outside in my veggie garden\fruit trees\bushes but yep FF all the way for my girls :morenutes::morenutes::battingeyelashes::battingeyelashes:
What was wrong with Mg, you said bc you didnt know better? Is FFOF really that great? MG vs. FoxFarm? What was missing?
 
What was wrong with Mg, you said bc you didnt know better? Is FFOF really that great? MG vs. FoxFarm? What was missing?
It's not exactly formulated for cannabis...I grew with it for a couple years, with really good results, but FFOF is formulated for cannabis and works the same way, water and let it grow
I want organic!
FFOF is organics, not living but, if you add microbes and beneficial bacteria and amendments it could be :thumb:


I'm actually thinking about doing a grow with 2 plants of the same strain, but 1 in MG and 1 in FFOF, just to see/smoke/taste the difference :morenutes:
 
It's not exactly formulated for cannabis...I grew with it for a couple years, with really good results, but FFOF is formulated for cannabis and works the same way, water and let it grow

FFOF is organics, not living but, if you add microbes and beneficial bacteria and amendments it could be :thumb:


I'm actually thinking about doing a grow with 2 plants of the same strain, but 1 in MG and 1 in FFOF, just to see/smoke/taste the difference :morenutes:
Ok i see what you mean, what can i do to aim this towards cannabis? Should i add bacteria, bc i going to use molasses for the soil. I didnt use ffof bc i didnt know much about it, and i knew MG would get me started, and some funds to improve next cycle, have some plants going to jabe foliage to work with. But i wanna go optimal soil, when this runs its course.
 
Ok i see what you mean, what can i do to aim this towards cannabis? Should i add bacteria, bc i going to use molasses for the soil. I didnt use ffof bc i didnt know much about it, and i knew MG would get me started, and some funds to improve next cycle, have some plants going to jabe foliage to work with. But i wanna go optimal soil, when this runs its course.
You’re going to need to feed it nutrients if you didn’t preload the soil. I don’t think a molasses only regimen will get you there. You can’t feed microbes that arent there. If you wanted to run organics, build a soil.

These are some of what I use:
2C545408-0D7C-475D-BA5B-9E093510BBA2.jpeg


FFOF isn’t just a water only soil. It’s base pH is roughly 6.5 which is ideal for cannabis, but not made specifically for cannabis.
Black Magic, which is built for cannabis says to start feeding nutes after two weeks.

I have a very good soil recipe if you’re interested. It’s not hard to do, but all you have to feed is compost tea and water.

...or save yourself time and money, use whatever soil and Mega Crop. Done.
 
Ok i see what you mean, what can i do to aim this towards cannabis? Should i add bacteria, bc i going to use molasses for the soil. I didnt use ffof bc i didnt know much about it, and i knew MG would get me started, and some funds to improve next cycle, have some plants going to jabe foliage to work with. But i wanna go optimal soil, when this runs its course.
You really don't want to use molasses (a source of Nitrogen) with MG, it already attracts bugs by itself, one of the reasons I switched. Get some MG plant food and you'll be fine
 
You’re going to need to feed it nutrients if you didn’t preload the soil. I don’t think a molasses only regimen will get you there. You can’t feed microbes that arent there. If you wanted to run organics, build a soil.

These are some of what I use:
2C545408-0D7C-475D-BA5B-9E093510BBA2.jpeg


FFOF isn’t just a water only soil. It’s base pH is roughly 6.5 which is ideal for cannabis, but not made specifically for cannabis.
Black Magic, which is built for cannabis says to start feeding nutes after two weeks.

I have a very good soil recipe if you’re interested. It’s not hard to do, but all you have to feed is compost tea and water.

...or save yourself time and money, use whatever soil and Mega Crop. Done.
Yes i would like the recipe, i am going ro have to navigate through this one, and before next cycle i will work on getting these ingridients. Ppm/PHmeter should be here soon. Grandmas is only 1-0-5 npk,
MG npk 28-8-16
1.5mgN 2mgP 4mgK per gal.



Ok so im only watering.....i feed them lightly 4/01/20 with wet soil. Waiting for the soil to dry. Going forward only ph water @ 6.5.
6.5 - 7 but 6.5 is optimal?
Im using well water.
 
Ok so im only watering.....i feed them lightly 4/01/20 with wet soil.

Not enough nitrogen, I use 20-10-30 +TE and that seems to work well most of the time.
If the leaf tips go white they get a feed of Cal-Mag + 0-52-34
All feeds at 1/4 the manufactures recommended strength.
That's 3 products, $5 + $10 + $5, they last about 8-12 months.
Plus coco 70c for 2Kg damp ready mixed, and perlite $3 for 20l delivered.

It's just foolish to mix all these expensive soils and ingredients IMHO.
If they actually worked someone would have already produced a pre-mixed product.
Do you think farmers and commercial growers bother with this nonsense?
 

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Not enough nitrogen, I use 20-10-30 +TE and that seems to work well most of the time.
If the leaf tips go white they get a feed of Cal-Mag + 0-52-34
That's 3 products, $5 + $10 + $5, they last about a year.
Plus coco 70c for 2Kg damp ready mixed, and perlite $3 for 20l delivered.

It's just foolish to mix all these expensive soils and ingredients IMHO.
If they actually worked someone would have already produced a pre-mixed product.
[/QUOTE
Thank you
20-10-30 vs 24-8-16
What is TE
And can i tweek my numbers with what i have?
 
No because your fertilizer has 10x too much 'K'.
You need a different nutrient mix.

Fertilizer is around $5 for 1/2 Kilogram, you just need to choose the correct NPK mix for the plants you grow.
In this case 20-10-30.
Ok here we go...lol....
So what do i need exactly, to push this one out, and next cycle i will come correct.
Mg potting mix
All purpose plant food
Grandmas molasses
 
Thank you
20-10-30 vs 24-8-16
What is TE
And can i tweek my numbers with what i have?

TE = trace elements, but none of the commercial fertilisers seem to have enough TE in them.
Which is why I use Cal-Mag to top them up (but only when I see a leaf problem).
24-8-16 might work, but it might not have enough 'K'.
 
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