@Azimuth I read somewhere that you have experience dealing with thrips... Apparently I have them, just noticed today... I have been using SNS-209 weekly and that has kept them somewhat at bay. I need to treat to try to rid them. I am 3 weeks or so into flower what would you recommend?
 
@Azimuth I read somewhere that you have experience dealing with thrips... Apparently I have them, just noticed today... I have been using SNS-209 weekly and that has kept them somewhat at bay. I need to treat to try to rid them. I am 3 weeks or so into flower what would you recommend?
@Azimuth, I have "Flying Skull Nuke em" I also have "Lost Coast Plant Therapy" ingredients for both listed below

Flying Skull Nuke Em
Active IngredientsBy Weight
Citric Acid0.05%
Inert Ingredients
Water, Yeast (Enzymes), Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids,
Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Total:100.00%

I also have "Lost Coast Plant Therapy"
Seven simple ingredients of the highest quality make up Lost Coast Plant Therapy. We only use biodegradable, food grade, and cosmetic grade ingredients.

Below is more about the ingredients and what they do:

LABEL ACTIVE INGREDIENTS:

Soy oil
is organic, food grade, and non-GMO. ACTION: Coats insects and suffocates on contact. Bugs cannot build an immunity to suffocation.

Peppermint Essential Oil is organic and food grade. ACTION: Natural bug repellent.

Citric Acid is organic, food grade. ACTION: Adjusts pH of plant surface. Preservative. This ingredient makes the pH of the plant inhospitable for powdery mildew and eliminates spores on contact due to its anti-fungal properties.

LABEL INERT INGREDIENTS:

Soap
is a proprietary blend and from a sustainable plant source. Lowers the surface tension of water/liquid, which helps it spread across the surface of anything it is applied to. An emulsifier (helps all the other ingredients to stay mixed together.) It also penetrates the insects body covering and disrupts the cell membrane. Cell contents leak out causing the target pests to dehydrate.

Isopropyl Alcohol is cosmetic grade (safe for skin). Isopropyl alcohol dehydrates insects rapidly and helps evaporate diluted product from plants safely without leaving harmful residue or burning.


Sodium Citrate is food grade. Preservative, this ingredient also buffers pH to keep it stable; which makes it impossible for powdery mildew and spores to live on the plant.

Water is purified, reverse osmosis. Emulsifier and thinning agent.


Our product is not certified organic. The concentrate is formulated with both natural and organic ingredients.
 
@Azimuth I read somewhere that you have experience dealing with thrips... Apparently I have them, just noticed today... I have been using SNS-209 weekly and that has kept them somewhat at bay. I need to treat to try to rid them. I am 3 weeks or so into flower what would you recommend?
OMG I hate those f*****n things! I used to get them every time I up-potted, I think they came in with my fresh worm castings. For me they went away when I started adding three meals to my mix (crustacean, neem, and karanja). That's an idea from Clackamas Coot, a legend in the organic soil cannabis world.

Before that I treated them with a true soap, Safer's Insect Killing Soap, which works by dissolving the exoskeleton of the bugs and dehydrating them to death. Works on mites, thrips, etc. It contains 'Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids' which is what to look for on the label if you go with something else (like your Flying Skull). Some people have had success using dishwashing detergents like Dawn if you want to get started right away before you can get the good stuff. But, those are not true soaps but rather chemical concoctions of detergents, degreasers, scents and other stuff.

Safer's is good to use in flower right up to harvest. Spray it on all leaves and surfaces (underneath especially), let dry and then rinse off. The soaps only work on contact meaning a bug landing on a freshly sprayed leaf will be largely unaffected.

The life cycle of those little bastards is quite short so it's best to spray each day for the first three or four days, then every three days or so so you get any you missed the last round and any new hatchlings before they reach sexual maturity and begin laying eggs of their own.

With a scope, the larvae look like little grains of rice, and the mature bug has wings to better spread itself around your grow. Did I say how much I hate them? :confused:
 
OMG I hate those f*****n things! I used to get them every time I up-potted, I think they came in with my fresh worm castings. For me they went away when I started adding three meals to my mix (crustacean, neem, and karanja). That's an idea from Clackamas Coot, a legend in the organic soil cannabis world.

Before that I treated them with a true soap, Safer's Insect Killing Soap, which works by dissolving the exoskeleton of the bugs and dehydrating them to death. Works on mites, thrips, etc. It contains 'Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids' which is what to look for on the label if you go with something else (like your Flying Skull). Some people have had success using dishwashing detergents like Dawn if you want to get started right away before you can get the good stuff. But, those are not true soaps but rather chemical concoctions of detergents, decreases, scents and other stuff.

Safer's is good to use in flower right up to harvest. Spray it on all leaves and surfaces (underneath especially), let dry and then rinse off. The soaps only work on contact meaning a bug landing on a freshly sprayed leaf will be largely unaffected.

The life cycle of those little bastards is quite short so it's best to spray each day for the first three or four days, then every three days or so so you get any you missed the last round and any new hatchlings before they reach sexual maturity and begin laying eggs of their own.

With a scope, the larvae look like little grains of rice, and the mature bug has wings to better spread itself around your grow. Did I say how much I hate them? :confused:
Thanks for your quick reply! I guess I will spray today with the Flying skull. I looked online at Big Box stores and Safers is special order in my area. Also looked at garden centers website, they don't carry it. The Zon won't ship it to my location... I found a recipe online to make my own insecticidal soap using Castile soap, this is what I will do, hopefully be able to get the castile tomorrow. I posted recipe below.

Homemade Insecticidal Soap Recipe​

The simplest insecticidal soap is nothing more than a 2-percent soap solution. To make this at home, you will need:


  • Sprayer: Any clean spray bottle or garden sprayer will work fine for spraying insecticidal soap. Make sure the sprayer or bottle hasn’t been used for herbicides.
  • Pure Soap: Use a pure liquid soap, such as Castile, or all-natural soap. The active ingredient in insecticidal soap comes from the fatty acids in animal fat or vegetable oil, so it’s important to use the real thing. Don’t use detergents (which aren’t actually soaps), dish soaps, or any products with degreasers, skin moisturizers, or synthetic chemicals. Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile Soap is usually pretty easy to find in stores or check your local natural-foods store for other options.
  • Pure Water: Tap water is fine for making insecticidal soap. If you have hard water, you may want to use bottled water to prevent soap scum from building up on your plants.

To make homemade 2-percent insecticidal soap, mix together:​

  • 5 tablespoons soap to 1 gallon of water
OR

  • 1 heavy tablespoon soap to 1 quart of water
 
Thanks for your quick reply! I guess I will spray today with the Flying skull. I looked online at Big Box stores and Safers is special order in my area. Also looked at garden centers website, they don't carry it. The Zon won't ship it to my location... I found a recipe online to make my own insecticidal soap using Castile soap, this is what I will do, hopefully be able to get the castile tomorrow. I posted recipe below.

Homemade Insecticidal Soap Recipe​

The simplest insecticidal soap is nothing more than a 2-percent soap solution. To make this at home, you will need:


  • Sprayer: Any clean spray bottle or garden sprayer will work fine for spraying insecticidal soap. Make sure the sprayer or bottle hasn’t been used for herbicides.
  • Pure Soap: Use a pure liquid soap, such as Castile, or all-natural soap. The active ingredient in insecticidal soap comes from the fatty acids in animal fat or vegetable oil, so it’s important to use the real thing. Don’t use detergents (which aren’t actually soaps), dish soaps, or any products with degreasers, skin moisturizers, or synthetic chemicals. Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile Soap is usually pretty easy to find in stores or check your local natural-foods store for other options.
  • Pure Water: Tap water is fine for making insecticidal soap. If you have hard water, you may want to use bottled water to prevent soap scum from building up on your plants.

To make homemade 2-percent insecticidal soap, mix together:​

  • 5 tablespoons soap to 1 gallon of water
OR

  • 1 heavy tablespoon soap to 1 quart of water
I was able to get my hands on a bottle of Dr Bonner's Castile soap, so I will be using that today...

:thumb:
 
Hello Fellow Farmers! The beat goes on. It has been a hectic couple of weeks around here. We had two of the grand kids here for two weeks. They just left yesterday. Bad timing on the thrips part. I have sprayed three times with Dr Bonners Castile soap over the last week, which is made from organic oils. 5 tablespoons of Castile soap to a gallon of water. I just sprayed for the third time today. Most of my pistils are now orange. I am not seeing any live thrips at this point. The ones I do see are dead.
I watered today and added a double dose of SNS-209, Big 6 micro nutes, Buildabloom and coconut water. I'll get some pics posted over the next couple of days...

:lot-o-toke:
 
Happy Hump Day fellow Farmers!

Here are a few pics from this morning before lights on.

:hookah:

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Hello fellow farmers! I have not seen any thrips since before the last time that I sprayed. I have been looking every day and can't find any... Very stressful spraying my flowers... I am going to put off spraying until I see more of those little bastards. I am starting to see some new white pistils emerging. I should have another 3 - 4 weeks to go until harvest, (according to breeders info). I watered yesterday using 4 gallons of RO water, Alfalfa SST, a double dose of SNS-209, Big 6 micro nutes, Buildabloom, Agsil 16h silicate and coconut water. Plants have been getting droopy mid week, so I have been watering with plain RO water once a week between supplement feedings.
 
Hello Fellow Farmers, been real busy and stressed with work and life, still plugging along with the grow. The Ayahuasca is pretty much ready to chop, I am seeing some amber in the trichs, the Purple kush still has some white pistils may be another couple of weeks. Just need to make time to chop and bud wash the Ayahuasca. Been watering twice a week and still using SNS-209 every watering. Here are some pics from a few days ago...

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I chopped, trimmed, bud washed and hung the Ayahuasca yesterday, took almost 6 hours... Bud looks and smells good. The Purple kush still has lots of white pistils, couple more weeks to go... Here is a pic after trim before bud wash, hopefully at least 8 ounces.

ayahuasca82722.PNG
 
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