grow indoor with 1200 led lights. All water ph'd to 6-6.5. Use good fertilizer, pictures of fertilizer, and soil provided. Just these spots are killing me. bit of a perfectionist, and i think it is hurting my yield.
Help, no idea what's going on
- Thread starter Pondo7011
- Start date
Take a peek at the sticky that shows what the various nutrient deficiencies / toxicities look like.
Some parts look like Ca def, and others look like thrip damage. Check under your leaves for critters, could also be spider mites but I don't see any webbing for that much noticeable damage.
MrIcculus
Well-Known Member
If I'm not mistaken, isn't promix HP a soil-less media? If it is i would say your PH going in may be a bit high. 5.6 to 5.8 would be closer to the right range if PM-HP is indeed soil-less.
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- #5
yes it is soil less.
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- #6
Apologies for being short with you in my first reply; I was trying the "cell phone experience" and these old eyes were next to useless with the tiny screen (or vice versa). I assume you found the stickied thread I mentioned ( Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver - Pictorial ) and had a look. It does look to be multiple issues (or one very advanced one?), and I'd agree with the others that both a nutrient (possibly pH-related) and insect one is not unlikely.
I tried looking for information about your nutrient product, but couldn't find anything. This - along with the creative spelling of magnesium sulfate on its label ("magnersium sulfate"
) leads me to believe that it is the store's house brand of nutrients. If this is the case, you might consider asking them for more information about it.
I recently had a short, friendly, almost disagreement with someone about the importance of testing the pH of one's media/substrate in a soil/soilless grow. It was mostly along the lines of... recommending best practices for others even if/when I get lazy and do not follow them, lol (my thinking being something like what my earliest teachers said, "Learn to do it right to begin with instead of using shortcuts; then you'll be prepared for situations in which the shortcuts don't work" or... something).
I assume you check and (if necessary) adjust your nutrient solution's pH after mixing it up, and your water if you alternate nutrients and water on alternate days instead of using a weaker nutrient solution every time. But have you tested the pH of your growing medium? This is often called a "slurry test." I'll paste the directions for performing one that I copied from Hanna Instruments' blog page. Most major pH / EC ("TDS") meter manufacturers - such as Hanna Instruments and Milwaukee Instruments - have information like this on their websites. I favor the latter brand, personally, but the vast majority of this kind of information is pretty generic in nature and can be of use to us.
I have read that it is better to have one's media in the correct pH range even when he/she adjusts the nutrient solution to that range before feeding/watering the plant. I would think this advice applies to soilless grows, too.
Here are a couple of links to information that may not be of direct help in solving your specific issues, but might add to your general grower knowledge:
Hanna Instruments' blog page on testing soil pH:
A 20-page (printable .PDF) guide from Milwaukee Instruments, titled Precision Agriculture Testing Manual for pH & Electrical Conductivity ( EC ) inS oil–Fertilizer–Water:
I tried looking for information about your nutrient product, but couldn't find anything. This - along with the creative spelling of magnesium sulfate on its label ("magnersium sulfate"
) leads me to believe that it is the store's house brand of nutrients. If this is the case, you might consider asking them for more information about it.I recently had a short, friendly, almost disagreement with someone about the importance of testing the pH of one's media/substrate in a soil/soilless grow. It was mostly along the lines of... recommending best practices for others even if/when I get lazy and do not follow them, lol (my thinking being something like what my earliest teachers said, "Learn to do it right to begin with instead of using shortcuts; then you'll be prepared for situations in which the shortcuts don't work" or... something).
I assume you check and (if necessary) adjust your nutrient solution's pH after mixing it up, and your water if you alternate nutrients and water on alternate days instead of using a weaker nutrient solution every time. But have you tested the pH of your growing medium? This is often called a "slurry test." I'll paste the directions for performing one that I copied from Hanna Instruments' blog page. Most major pH / EC ("TDS") meter manufacturers - such as Hanna Instruments and Milwaukee Instruments - have information like this on their websites. I favor the latter brand, personally, but the vast majority of this kind of information is pretty generic in nature and can be of use to us.
Hanna Instruments said:
I have read that it is better to have one's media in the correct pH range even when he/she adjusts the nutrient solution to that range before feeding/watering the plant. I would think this advice applies to soilless grows, too.
Here are a couple of links to information that may not be of direct help in solving your specific issues, but might add to your general grower knowledge:
Hanna Instruments' blog page on testing soil pH:
Code:
https://blog.hannainst.com/soil-ph-testing
Code:
https://www.milwaukeeinstruments.com/pdf/Agricultural_manual.pdf- Thread starter
- #8
i definitely do test and adjust right before every watering. But i was adjust to 6-6.5 range. which i assume is a bit too high. I also found really fine webbing/spider webs along the inside corners of my grow tent. But it could just be spiders, as i am in an area where there is super high spider count. Like the outside of my house is almost covered in them. I looked under leaves and didnt see anything suspicious when i flushed all my plants this morning, with 5.5-5.8 ph water.
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So i dropped down to 5.4-5.8 ph 2 weeks ago.I first flushed the plants, and then started regular water with new ph levels. Now they look like this
Attachments
Regardless of soil less or soil, I would get that pH up to 6.0 as you are most likely locking out Ca. Have you been feeding regular doses, or half strength? any CalMag? Promix has no nutes in it for your plant. The pic shows NPK values but how much Calcium and other micro nutrients are available to the plant with the mix you have?
It looks like Ca def to me if you see no insects. Whether the Ca is locked out because the pH is too low or just not enough in the medium for the plant is yet to be determined. Start pH'ing your water at 6.0 and get some CalMag and feed it full strength. I don't see any signs of nute damage but a PPM reading of the water after you mix everything would be helpful in determining correct feed amounts.
It looks like Ca def to me if you see no insects. Whether the Ca is locked out because the pH is too low or just not enough in the medium for the plant is yet to be determined. Start pH'ing your water at 6.0 and get some CalMag and feed it full strength. I don't see any signs of nute damage but a PPM reading of the water after you mix everything would be helpful in determining correct feed amounts.
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- #12
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- #13
BioThrive Grow by General Organics | Planet Natural
My fertilizer that was recommended to me at a grow show. I guess reading everything on label should be mandatory.
and i quote .....
User’s Tip:
This product works best with soils that contain calcium. When using depleted soil, coir, perlite, rockwool or any sterile media, for best results, we recommend that you supplement with General Organics CaMg+.
My fertilizer that was recommended to me at a grow show. I guess reading everything on label should be mandatory.
and i quote .....
User’s Tip:
This product works best with soils that contain calcium. When using depleted soil, coir, perlite, rockwool or any sterile media, for best results, we recommend that you supplement with General Organics CaMg+.
Did you say you are running your nutes at full strength?
If so then that is too much for them.
Looks like nute burn to me.
Always run nutes at half strength.
Do you have a ppm meter?
Ppm's should be around 600 ppm.
Right, so I would suggest getting some CalMag and start there. Keep the pH at 6.0 and drop the nutes to 1/4 strength and if you can get a PPM meter around 450-700 for second half veg is good.
Hey Pondo! Welcome to
So I feel your pain with the spotting I have also been dealing with this on my White Widow. I’m running in Promix HP as well and have found the optimal pH level to be between 5.8-6.0. Calmag is albsokutly crutial when running Promix medium as it has virtually no base nutes. I generally feed 3ml/g for the first 3 weeks then up to 5mL/g for the remainder of veg. Depending on how vigorous your plants are feeding into flower they could potentially handle 6mL/g up to 8mL/g of calmag... again depending on the plant! PH I have found to be the most crutial part when it comes to these girls. Second being PPM. Keep the feeds low and steady if your plants are showing you signs of needing more increase slowly!!
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Hey Pondo! Welcome to
So I feel your pain with the spotting I have also been dealing with this on my White Widow. I’m running in Promix HP as well and have found the optimal pH level to be between 5.8-6.0. Calmag is albsokutly crutial when running Promix medium as it has virtually no base nutes. I generally feed 3ml/g for the first 3 weeks then up to 5mL/g for the remainder of veg. Depending on how vigorous your plants are feeding into flower they could potentially handle 6mL/g up to 8mL/g of calmag... again depending on the plant! PH I have found to be the most crutial part when it comes to these girls. Second being PPM. Keep the feeds low and steady if your plants are showing you signs of needing more increase slowly!!
How often do you give the CalMag?
I give it every watering !! Promix has no nute base at all and it’s maditory to add the calmag! I go based on what the plant is telling me but it’s pretty hard to overdo it on the calmag if feeding at correct pH !
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