Is this to much or to little calcium?

[Crookedfinger]

Strain - Super silve haze
# of Plants - 12
Grow Type - Hydro
Grow Stage - day 2 of Flower
Setup - DWC
Light - 600 Watt HPS x2
Nutrients - Canna Flores A & B + advanced nutrient bud ignitor, sensizyme, bud candy, Rhino skin
Medium - Hydroton
PPM - 1000
PH - 5.8-5.9
RH - 30-59%
Room Temperature 72-77
Solution Temperature 67-72
Room Square Footage - 150
Pests - A few whiteflys that I have almost beat. I treated 3 times in the last 10 days. the last two were done 48 hrs apart. 2 days ago.

Problem: I changed to 12/12 yesterday and changed out from veg nutes to flower. Today i noticed a few branches hanging down and upon closer inspection I noticed these spots. I think it's calcium but may have more than 1 problem. Need some help from an experienced grower.
Lower growth pic 1-2

Middle growth- different spots- (maybe earlier stage of deficiency from previous pics)

New growth (notice the deformed new leaves)

Here are the droopy branches

New growth with twisted leaves

New growth

Here are my roots (there is more liquid in the res than that. That pic was taken when I drained and re-fed yesterday.)

Here is my PH, PPM, and water temp

Thanks for your time and energy!

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

If your water source is R/O or even soft water it may well be calcium problem as both lack Ca & Mg where as hard water has trace values of both.


For some reason the very first pic reminds me of light burn, a majority of reflectors cause heat spots amplifiered heat by reflector design & this can often be seen as a localised reoccuring problem in the same area of the grow room/enviroment.

I use to use a cheap reflector once which created a localised heat spot in my grow tent always happened in the first few weeks of flowering... just the recorded i would veg under CFLs before entering flowering with HID/HPS.

 

[Crookedfinger]

If your water source is R/O or even soft water it may well be calcium problem as both lack Ca & Mg where as hard water has trace values of both.


For some reason the very first pic reminds me of light burn, a majority of reflectors cause heat spots amplifiered heat by reflector design & this can often be seen as a localised reoccuring problem in the same area of the grow room/enviroment.

I use to use a cheap reflector once which created a localised heat spot in my grow tent always happened in the first few weeks of flowering... just the recorded i would veg under CFLs before entering flowering with HID/HPS.

I do not use R/O water. It is regular tap water. Where I live the water is pretty good. Not to hard or soft. My water is about 150 ppm out of the tap. I veg with 2 600 w MH. I thought that also about the light bleaching. Once this problem is corrected will the droopy branches come back or should I prune those?

 

[FrankFoster]

Dude, Classic K def from lock-out on healthy plants. You'll have mg lockout too.
DO NOT SPRAY THEM OR FOILER-FEED.

What happens is you get a plant sensitive to P-K ratios. You add a bit too much P in the profile and the K locks out & in like 13 hours you got the spots. The mg deficiency results when not treated. You have a P-K profile problem with this gene line. Obviously you are using enough N.

I would fix this with GH line micro. I would use it in the water profile without adding in other p-k so you get N5-p0-k0 at 2 tsp per gall with 150 ppm on tap. Then I would drip some water soluble iron fertilizer (DR IRON) with a n-P-K ratio (emphasis on the P-K) into the mix. say 90-110 ppm.

Then when I draft my next batch of water, I would look to keeping it below 600 ppm with even rations, ph to 5.8 and add that water slowly into the adjusted reservoir mentioned above. Do not change the res anymore outright..... just ph your additions and volumize the adds to keep TDS low.....

 

[Crookedfinger]

Dude, Classic K def from lock-out on healthy plants. You'll have mg lockout too.
DO NOT SPRAY THEM OR FOILER-FEED.

What happens is you get a plant sensitive to P-K ratios. You add a bit too much P in the profile and the K locks out & in like 13 hours you got the spots. The mg deficiency results when not treated. You have a P-K profile problem with this gene line. Obviously you are using enough N.

I would fix this with GH line micro. I would use it in the water profile without adding in other p-k so you get N5-p0-k0 at 2 tsp per gall with 150 ppm on tap. Then I would drip some water soluble iron fertilizer (DR IRON) with a n-P-K ratio (emphasis on the P-K) into the mix. say 90-110 ppm.

Then when I draft my next batch of water, I would look to keeping it below 600 ppm with even rations, ph to 5.8 and add that water slowly into the adjusted reservoir mentioned above. Do not change the res anymore outright..... just ph your additions and volumize the adds to keep TDS low.....

Thanks for your input Frank. Have you grown this strain before? I just bought a lot of nutrients from advanced and really don't want to go out and buy more. I treated them with a bomb for those last few white flys last night. Should I have not done that? I'm using the canna aqua flores with an npk of 3-0-6 on the A and 0-4-3 on the B. Also noticed this morning that some of the tips of the leaves are curling up like elf shoes. Any help is appreciated

 

[FrankFoster]

Yeah, reset the chemical profile by lowering the ppm by 150, generally (Add ph'd water without nutes). It goes to show with 3-0-6 and 0-4-3 that this plant got a bit too much P&K and that caused the problem. It was the P, not the K that is toxic in this scenario. But you have micro deficiency and K lockout. That causes the slow mg and calcium uptake which is the spots.

You can fix this with your nutes, just you need to watch the ppm of the P-K. you add. So, only go 1/3 strength in the chemical profile.

"tips up like elf shoes" = K DEF. Potassium is super important. it was the phosphorus that caused the Calcium to lockout (causing the white spots.)

One trick used by a pro I know is to ph simple water @5.8 and not add any nutes and go a few days on an attrition ratio (no nutes) at the firm 5.8. Tap water will still absorb nutes for the time period. Then start adding in properly mixed N-P-K at super low ppm into the res each time ph'ing the additive at 5.5ph. The plant will go kind-of neon color after too long but a few days causes the N mobile elements to drain from the sick leaves first. Then you defoil the sick leaves and you are back after say 6-8 days and your plant is looking for P-K and mg.

My variation of that plan was to only use 5-0-0 micro to avoid losing the N mobile units and not cause the nitrogen problem. But lack of P for a few days in this scenerio is what the DR. orders.... good luck bro.

 

[Lurch Farmer]

The last time I had similar issues, it turned out the mixing of different nute companys..
AN is extremely fidgety nute.