Leaves yellow, crisp and die...

DaveyBoy

New Member
... and still cannot figure out why.

Please click my Sig link for pics.

I had initially thought was PH, but may be something else in the water... or over wet roots or over fert? Leaves have never been very green so figured not that.

Any help very appreciated, she's looking v unhappy.
 
Hi, you seriously need to get some photos up or look up off gassing (or my thread) to see if you have the same.

I Dont believe its the water anyway!

I have added a reply in my thread to so check it out.

:peacetwo:
 
Sorry, cameraphone pics, not great resolution

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Only good news is that my attempts to use colloidal silver to make feminised seeds is coming along nicely.

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I thought that perhaps the plant is using a lot more nutes than I've been giving it, hence the yellowing, but really not sure wtf is going on.

There.
 
The small looking seeded (or male?) plant at the bottom looks like spider mite damage.

Not sure about the others, could be off gassing but only if moved then or replaced some bendy PVC in the last week or so.

If not I would hope its natural Nitrogen defficiency which is good if near the end.

I only did soil once and as you seen in my thread they died!

How long left?
 
oh yeah seen you used the silver! they will work but with my experience not the best methord to produce fine specimens.. Well done for that though mate! seeds are sooooo expensive!

:thumb:
 
The small looking seeded (or male?) plant at the bottom looks like spider mite damage.

I sprayed her with Colloidal Silver, and yes it was spider mite damage. I killed the buggers though :)

Not sure about the others, could be off gassing but only if moved then or replaced some bendy PVC in the last week or so.

If not I would hope its natural Nitrogen defficiency which is good if near the end.

I only did soil once and as you seen in my thread they died!

How long left?

Seems like it's RH, and sorry about my comments on your post, did look a bit like a troll ;)

Luckily the house am in has ceramic tiles, but there is laminate flooring in the corridor outside.

Am hoping that me having too low humidity has been the issue and will see some results.

Thanks for posting :)
 
oh yeah seen you used the silver! they will work but with my experience not the best methord to produce fine specimens.. Well done for that though mate! seeds are sooooo expensive!

:thumb:

Was toying with light stress, but I didn't want male sacs everywhere, and spraying the branch meant it purely affected the one area, which gives me some control.

I murdered all my clones, omg... I had 5 and left them on their own for 3 days on a long weekend and came back and they were crispy... my and crispy, wtf.

I hope I can get some seeds from this, but apparently you should be pollinating the flowers at 2 and a half weeks... which has already gone. Not sure they'll have time to mature, so may save the pollen and see what I can get my hands on to cross pollinate or see if I can beg a clone from someone.
 
think getting the seeds mature is the main thing! next time :thumb:

IMO I think RH below 30% is bad, in fact its around 25% in a desert where nothing much can grow and this would be bad!
 
I took 5 flowering clones, so perhaps in the next 6-8 weeks I'll get roots.

Did a google on humidity earlier and got the following;

High temps + low humidity + intense light are dangerous to a plant.

Light:


The plant transpires and photosynthesizes rapidly in intense light conditions, quickly using up water to form simple sugar by photosynthesis (sugar is a hydrocarbon; water contains a pair of H+ ions. The plant gets the carbon most efficiently from CO2 in the atmosphere).

Temperature:

The plant also cools itself by allowing moisture to evaporate off leaf surfaces.

Humidity:


The plant regulates its water loss and intakes atmospheric gases through the stomata, which are small openings concentrated on the undersides of the leaves. When the plant is trying to conserve water, and closes the stomata, it cannot breathe, and its metabolic systems start to shut down.

What this all means is that when you are running BRIGHT and WARM, you must also add MOISTURE to keep the stomata open, and at temperatures above about 85 degrees, CO2 to ensure that CO2 is not the limiting factor in the plant's metabolism.

When your conditions are COLD, and the plant is transpiring slowly, avoid overwatering, as moisture use/loss slows, and if you want to keep your plants fairly healthy even in low temps, you may want to decrease light intensity as well, because even though they may be able to photosynthesize under bright light, the chemical reactions that take place within the plant happen much more slowly. Below 65 degrees or so the plants become nearly dormant, and may be held in that state only under correct conditions.

Well hopefully will see some difference today, watered and fed last night and had better humidity these last few days.
 
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