Aero/ebb & flow recommendations

[Roseman]

Take a look here.

Ultra-premium Connoisseur Part A
Ultra-premium Connoisseur Part B

Advanced Nutrients

You'll find some "cheaper" nutes that are 1 part formula. Some as mentioned have 2 parts, like an A&B, and then some have three parts, like my GH I'm using Gro, Micro and Bloom, plus enhancers.

It's really what you prefer and feel comfortable with. Asking about Nutes, in my opinion is like trying to get a fix on someone; on what kind of car they like. Hundreds of opinions.

Check out this thread:
A Poll To See What Kind Of Nutes Are Preferred

Best.
SF

Great Post, Great Answer.

 

[FrostyBuds]

OK boys, Rain Forest 66 and Connoisseur nutes are on the way. Thanks for all your help and I'll try to post pics as the jungle takes over ;-)

Great choice on the rain forest. That is a real nice piece of equipment. That vortex sprayer will do better then the drip feed Deep Water Culture. Can't beat real hydroponic equipment. Of course dwc/drip/Deep Water Culture is a great way to start and learn but it is just DWC. And oh yeah nice choice on the Connoisseur nutes.

 

[lassus]

I've been reading through the "How To" posts that StinkFinger suggested. I notice that one of the issues of aeroponics that is mentioned there is the need to be especially vigilant about pH and ppm. As I mentioned earlier, I will be using the Connoisseur A and B nutes, which somebody else mentioned are pretty pH friendly.

Since this is my first foray into raising plants without dirt, I'd also appreciate advice on how technique sensitive the pH and ppm issues are, and how I should plan to manage this. Is there a combo meter I should have, or do you suppose the Rain Forest 66 with Connoisseur nutes is a "plug and play" system. Just trying to limit the errors in my trial and error experiences moving forward.

Lastly, thanks again for all the helpful and supportive comments. I really appreciate it.

 

[StinkFinger]

I've been reading through the "How To" posts that StinkFinger suggested. I notice that one of the issues of aeroponics that is mentioned there is the need to be especially vigilant about pH and ppm. As I mentioned earlier, I will be using the Connoisseur A and B nutes, which somebody else mentioned are pretty pH friendly.

Since this is my first foray into raising plants without dirt, I'd also appreciate advice on how technique sensitive the pH and ppm issues are, and how I should plan to manage this. Is there a combo meter I should have, or do you suppose the Rain Forest 66 with Connoisseur nutes is a "plug and play" system. Just trying to limit the errors in my trial and error experiences moving forward.

Lastly, thanks again for all the helpful and supportive comments. I really appreciate it.

Lassus

You've spent some $$ to get a decent system and seeds you mentioned. You seem serious about the investment and your return. I would RUN, not walk, and get a meter.

Again, you'll get many responses on what type of meter to use. I've been really happy with a Milwaukee 802 model. So just speaking from my experience.

You'll have to get a feeling for how your PH may or may not drift over the course of 7-10 days (or whenever you do your res change). Like you mentioned each Nute manufactures products will react differently.

Do you know the condition of your water now? What are you planning on using, tap, RO, these will also effect your PPM and PH, so a meter will help you assess and adjust for those conditions.

Good to be thinking about this stuff now, before you begin! Unfortunately, I didn't.

SF

 

[lassus]

SF, by the way, love the handle. Yes, I'm trying to think proactively!~

I don't know the chemistry of my tap water. for my potted plants, I've used either tap water allowed to sit open to let the chlorine evaporate, or distilled water. I add plant food at slightly less than the recommendations on the label, occasionally just using plain water without plant food. What is RO?

I will probably have the meter ordered before you post your reply ;-) Any other accessories you think I should arm myself with?

 

[StinkFinger]

SF, by the way, love the handle. Yes, I'm trying to think proactively!~

I don't know the chemistry of my tap water. for my potted plants, I've used either tap water allowed to sit open to let the chlorine evaporate, or distilled water. I add plant food at slightly less than the recommendations on the label, occasionally just using plain water without plant food. What is RO?

I will probably have the meter ordered before you post your reply ;-) Any other accessories you think I should arm myself with?

Thanks man.

One of the first things you have to do is determine what water source your going to use. Obviously based on several factors, size of your res, cost of water to purchase, how often you'll change, current quality of city tap water.

Once you get your meter, you'll be able to measure the PPM and PH of your tap water. I believe the "rule of thumb" is 200 ppm or less and it will not be considered "hard-water", so then you'll have to go back to your nute instructions and see what they say about hard water, or if they "require" you to use RO (Reverse Osmosis) water. Some nute companies have an additive you can put in for hard-water applications, other nutes have the buffers built in.

Some guys will say to use RO water all the time, some will say tap water (which I use) and some will use well water, rain water. If your lucky, your city water might be just fine. Then you'll probably just want to take note of your baseline of PH in your water source.

You'll then most likely add the nutes, taking another PH measurement, the final step will be to adjust your PH based on hydro's "preferred nutrient" uptake, 5.5-6.5. You'll quickly gain experience of how you mix your "soup" over the course of several reservoir changes.

Maybe some tips or things to consider for purchase:

-I mix my water (let it sit out overnight) in a large plastic tub I purchased from home improvement store. I mix the nutes in this container and I use a pump (also purchased from depot store) to move from container to Rainforest res. The pump can also be used to drain the Rainforest res, with some PVC attachments you can purchase.

-Measuring cups and/or syringes are good to measure out accurate measurements (ml most likely)

I'm going to post another link for you here (my journal) sometimes it's easier to visualize then with words. Here's basically how I do the change each week. (A little bigger res, but same process)

1st Grow - Ebb-N-Grow : Afghan Kush, White Widow, Bag Seed!

Hope this stuff helps you man.
SF

 

[StinkFinger]

PS. These charts are all over this site, but it's a good reference for all to see.

SF

 

[lassus]

It's all coming together with all the ++ contributions. SF, I agree that it is actually likely that my tap water is quite satisfactory. I know it is not particularly hard/soft, and pH shouldn't be too far off neutral. Easy enough to check in 3-5 days when my Milwaukee 802 gets here ;-)

Next step is getting familiar with the routines. Replenishing, checking chemistry, when, how often, etc., etc. I've come a long way in the last 48 hours ;-0

 

[StinkFinger]

It'll get more exciting and fulfilling just as soon as you begin your journey.

Glad you're soaking it all in. Lots of great people here on 420! You should probably start a journal if/when you feel comfortable.

Peace Lassus.
SF

 

[lassus]

SF, I've been enjoying your journal. What's the deal with CO2? I understand that it is required for photosynthesis, but apparently you've taken pains to increase the concentration in the ambient air around your plants. How important is this? Just trying to get all my ducks in a row!

Also, there's probably someplace on the site where there are guidelines, but I haven't found them. Do members ever get together or is it not cool to share any personal information.

 

[StinkFinger]

SF, I've been enjoying your journal.

Thanks Man!!! Means a lot. I try to be as through as possible.

What's the deal with CO2? I understand that it is required for photosynthesis, but apparently you've taken pains to increase the concentration in the ambient air around your plants. How important is this? Just trying to get all my ducks in a row!

I would say most people probably do not utilize CO2. I didn't for my first grow. "Normal" CO2 concentration within an enclosed space could be 300-500ppm, but "optimal" plant synthesis takes place at a sweet spot of 1500ppm. I've seen reports that CO2 could add 30-60% yield. Since I've never been through a complete cycle, I can't report my results yet.

Here's another thread on CO2 discussion, I've been participating in:
Want to learn how co2

Also, there's probably someplace on the site where there are guidelines, but I haven't found them. Do members ever get together or is it not cool to share any personal information.

Below you'll find a link to 420 guidelines, etc. I would recommend that you don't post too much info that is "private", once you accumulate 25 posts, you'll be able to PM (Private Message) individual users and in this communication you can divulge whatever info you feel appropriate.

420 Magazine - FAQ

Have a great weekend Lassus!
SF

 

[lassus]

My current grow space is indoors, but not enclosed. To my wife's frustration, it's in our bedroom!! ;-) I'm guessing that with a maximum of 6 plants in the Rain Forest 66, CO2 is probably not a critical matter....at least it won't be for my first aerorponic venture.

I currently have a white widow plant (female, thankfully) growing in dirt, but notice some sort of markings on the leaves which I am guessing is a disease or parasite of some sort. Is anyone familiar with this?

Hmmmm...."To attach a file to a new post, simply click the [Manage Attachments] button at the bottom of the post composition page, and locate the file that you want to attach from your local hard drive."

I do not see a manage attachments button?? Just the insert image icon that is looking for a URL, rather than location in my hard drive. Pictures to follow once I get advice on how to post them.

 

[StinkFinger]

My current grow space is indoors, but not enclosed. To my wife's frustration, it's in our bedroom!! ;-)

Funny you mention the wife, check out this journal I've been watching, same "problems"...ha..ha

Speyedr's White Widow Deep Water Culture SCROG, House & Garden Nutes - 1st Grow EVER!

So I thought I'd chronicle my grow here as I am a little over two weeks into it and have managed to retard my little ones. They are only ~1in & 2in respectively with a little root growth emerging from the pots. I have: -SH Deep Water Culture system -2 air discs w/ SH included air pump...

www.420magazine.com

I'm guessing that with a maximum of 6 plants in the Rain Forest 66, CO2 is probably not a critical matter....at least it won't be for my first aerorponic venture.

I currently have a white widow plant (female, thankfully) growing in dirt, but notice some sort of markings on the leaves which I am guessing is a disease or parasite of some sort. Is anyone familiar with this?

Hmmmm...."To attach a file to a new post, simply click the [Manage Attachments] button at the bottom of the post composition page, and locate the file that you want to attach from your local hard drive."

I do not see a manage attachments button?? Just the insert image icon that is looking for a URL, rather than location in my hard drive. Pictures to follow once I get advice on how to post them.

Bro, soil I'm not familiar with, so I'd have to defer to the other guys here.

I wouldn't worry bout the CO2 on this first round. You can try a DIY, or purchase a bucket system like mentioned in that CO2 thread. I wasn't disappointed with my results without using CO2.

Picture posting instructions here:
Photo Gallery Guide - How to Resize, Upload & Post Photos

SF

 

[lassus]

OK, here we go.....I hope.

 

[Doctor Who]

OK, here we go.....I hope.

That spotting looks like and really hate to even mention the words! spiderr mites, look on the back of the leaf's for little very hard to see black speck here and the there! Queens that lay egg's look for bunches of little white things (egg's) on the back of the leaves, mist for webs, low humidity and under 70 temps will slow them only! and sprays will not eliminate then completely That's if that's what those spots are they suck the juices from the backside of the leaves,.

Look I hate for it to be that! and it could be something totally different, but if by any chance it is! you need to do something fast, flora mite works for 28 day's and can be used right up to a few days before, the price to pay if left unchecked! is they can harm the plant and mess up the buds to the point of unsmoke able.

Good luck and the plants looks good other than what ever the spots are!

 

[lassus]

OK folks, all my stuff has arrived....the Rain Forest 66, the Connoisseur A and B nutes, the Milwaukee 802 meter, and of course lighting (600 watt HPS).

In order to minimize the error in my trial and error for this first hydroponic grow, I have a few more questions:

1. The nutrients. I assumed you used A for vegetative phase, and B for flowering, and that the nutrients were concentrates that were diluted with water. The label on the bottles says otherwise, "Connoisseur is an ultra premium two part bloom phase fertilizer to be applied to plant roots via hydroponics irrigation. Blend equal amounts of part A and part B until the proper nutrient strength is reached. Do not mix as a concentrate. Add part A, ahen add part B, to the reservoir."

-Does this mean that I need to get 17 gallons of this stuff in order to fill the reservoir??

-Also, is "bloom fertilizer" not used for vegetative phase and do I need to buy something else?

-How do I properly titrate this stuff for proper growth,?

-Does the ratio of A to B stay at 1 to 1 throughout the grow?

2. The Milwaukee 802 pH and PPM, EC meter. The meter came with foil packets with calibration solutions. I understand that part, I think. Once calibrated, it seems that the instructions advise that the probe must keep kept in water, even when not in use. Must I really keep this think immersed in water all the time?? If so, do I use tap water, distilled water?

3. I'm not clear on how I should be monitoring and adjusting nutrient strength (PPM)

4. Last but not least, the logistics of getting started. I believe I rinse off the hydroton pebbles thoroughly and then place them in the baskets. Do I use the coco tek liners and lids? I think they're just for cuttings, not for starting with seeds, as I will be doing.

Then I guess I put a seed in each basket, 1/4 inch below the surface and go to town.

Do I run this thing 24/7?

Sheesh, this is quite a project! But what could be more worthwhile? ;-)

 

[StinkFinger]

L.

I'm running for coffee and will be back in 20 to answer some of these for you. In the meantime, hit the AN website and see if you can find a Nute calculator of some sort based on the nutes that arrived.

Back soon man.
SF

 

[FrostyBuds]

A grow A&B is needed. I'd use AN Sensi Grow A and B. The nutes you have are for bloom. To mix the nutes you get your reservoir filled with water 17 gallons or whatever you res is add like 4ml per liter or 16ml a gallon of A and B. So you would use 16ml * 17 gallons equals 272mL of A and 272mL or B. The concentrate part is not to mix the A&B before it goes into the reservoir. Put water in res, put in A mix, put in B mix, take a ppm/pH reading.

Always mix equal parts of A&B. Never mix A&B together without first mixing A in with water first then add B.

You should really start out with 4mL a gallon of each A&B to get a starting point ppm and pH. PPM's change as the nutes increase in the res. Say the 4mL of A and 4mL of B gets a certain ppm per gallon then 8mL of A and 8 mL of B per gallon will be twice as strong as the 4mL gallon. Since you don't have all the additives AN sells the feeding chart really won't help. Use the instructions on the jug that tell you however many mL per Liter to achieve a certain PPM. I know AN Sensi chart starts at 800ppm then 1000ppm then 1200ppm.

Not familiar with the Milwaukee instruments.

 

[FrostyBuds]

AN calls for 4mL per Liter of each A and B. So a total of 8mL per Liter.

Advanced Nutrients - Raising The Reputations Of Top Growers

Advanced Nutrients, founded by Michael Straumietis (aka BigMike), is the No. 1 hydroponics nutrients company in the world — with sales in 117+ countries and counting.

www.advancednutrients.com

Of course that is where your tester comes in to get your ppm's at the target range for each stage of growth. Early growth is low ppm's 300 or so, then veg growth is 600-1000ppm, and bloom phase is 1000ppm's plus and then backed down. So to get 300ppm's you'd have to mix 1mL A 1ml B per Liter test and see the ppm's. If ppm's are 200 then you'd need to add 1mL A and 1mL B and test ppm's again to see where that is such as 300 or something. It is some trial and error. Start off small and add nutes to get target ppm's. You can always add nutes but you can't take nutes back.

 

[lassus]

Frosty, thanks for the helpful info. It makes me wish I could take a long weekend in Amsterdam just to get myself properly tweaked. I'm so ready to replace the mediocre krap I buy in baggies ;-)