Amphetamine & Narcotic Kush

I'd like to share the way i start my seeds for dwc if i may. I put my seeds in damp paper towels just until they crack and i see the faintest bit of white and then straight into my hydroton about 3/4s of the way down. I cover them with a single layer of pellets until i can see the cotyledons start to peek and then add another single layer. Repeat until my net pot is full and then put a humidity dome over it all. After about a week the dome comes off a few hours at a time to help the seedling harden and after a few days it comes off for good. I also use a submersible pump during this time to top feed for 15 minutes twice a day during the light cycle. Once i see the first root tip poke out of the side of the pot the pump comes out and i lwt the bubbles do their thing. I have had 100% success with this so far and this is around my 12th time doing it. Just my method but there are many ways to get where you want to be.

I am too lazy to do all that manipulation. I firmly believe from all my work with organic vegetable growing that anytime you touch the root system you stunt the plant's potential. I have an arduino running the tent. I change the nutes weekly. I will top once for autos and 3 times for photos and then LST or Scrog, and defoliate weekly, Raise the lights every 4 or 5 days. Harvest time is way too much work but the reward is tangible and curing drives me crazy.;)
 
I had the same problem with Rapid Rooters and my top drip method. I think they were drowning because they were too wet, but I didn't have any type of root mutations like you.

After doing some major surgery to take them out of the Rapid Rooters, I was able to bring them back to life. In the end I actually planted them directly in the hydroton.

Day 11:
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Day 21:
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And now today (Day 30):
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Severely stunted, but still alive! Check out my grow here.

I have a new seedling on the go. I skipped the RR and started in a micro cube of rockwool.
 
Sammy:

I have had several stem rot problems with Top Fed DWC that is why I am trying these new net pots that eliminate the top feed. I now know that the RRs won't work. I will be using the Bio-dome sponges next.

Here is a pic of some stem rot I had on one plant using top feed. It amazes me how resilient these weeds are. It still produced quite well @Almost 10 ounces but what might have been?

Stem18.JPG
 
Sammy:

I have had several stem rot problems with Top Fed DWC that is why I am trying these new net pots that eliminate the top feed. I now know that the RRs won't work. I will be using the Bio-dome sponges next.

Here is a pic of some stem rot I had on one plant using top feed. It amazes me how resilient these weeds are. It still produced quite well @almost 10 ounces but what might have been?

Ahh, yeah I am scared of the stem rot!! :bitingnails: I am hoping with larger net lids and top drip around the perimeter I can keep the middle fairly dry.

That was another reason I wanted to get rid of the RR's, even if the seedlings did survive the rooting stage, I felt the RR would keep too much moisture around the stem.

Best of luck on Bio-dome sponges, I'll be following :)
 
Sammy:

I have had several stem rot problems with Top Fed DWC that is why I am trying these new net pots that eliminate the top feed. I now know that the RRs won't work. I will be using the Bio-dome sponges next.

Here is a pic of some stem rot I had on one plant using top feed. It amazes me how resilient these weeds are. It still produced quite well @almost 10 ounces but what might have been?

Stem18.JPG

I use 5 gal bucket , haven't ever used a top feed , roots usually only take 2-3 days to get to water , I think keeping res quite warm helps for first week or so


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Hi Cobblepot, Welcome.

Yeah I don't want a wet crown after the roots get down into the res.

I increased the size/volume of my reservoir for this next grow to actual 5 gallons and also gained 5" of vertical space. My 5 gallon bucket ended up with less than 2 gallons after the roots filled the space! It made it hard to keep the PH in range.

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It is not perfect but I have some time to fill before I build a more permanent room. The new room will have 96" overall vertical and I will be increasing my reservoir capacity again to 10 gallons for 2 plants with 3 reservoirs to accommodate the six plants I am legally allowed to grow now here in California, USA. I will be better able to grow some of the tropical sativas that want to be tall girls. :yummy:
 
Re: Amphetamine & Narcotic Kush

Cool man, hope round 2 goes better.
I see you don't cover the net pots and have lights goin since the beginning. We were told to leave lights off until the break the surface.
That or if we have lights on, to cover the pots with a paper plate with just a small hole in the center to allow for a small amount of light to get to the seed site.
While keeping light from getting through the pot, to the roots and into the resivour. And keeps algae down.

I'd like to see how your beans sprout and take off. Maybe we don't have to use paper plates idea after all.

Sent from my SM-G530T using 420 Magazine Mobile App
 
Hi Twin:

There are as many germination methods out there as weed strains........ I don't know why people have to overthink this natural process? Moisture, air and temperature are the only requirements needed to germinate a cannabis seed. Some seeds need light to germinate but not cannabis; the lights are to provide warmth not light. The light will not hurt the process. Think about how the seed fares in the wild.

The paper plate may be about preventing algae in the reservoir. I have 5 inches of clay pebbles that will block the light from reaching the reservoir and a little bit of algae on the rocks is not detrimental. In fact the only reason algae is bad in your reservoir is that it uses oxygen and nutrients meant for your plants. They are not a bad organism in and of themselves.

In my first attempt on this COTC grow I did not realize that the light from the cobs was heating the Rapid Rooters to over 90°F that is too hot. The CFLs over The Bio-dome sponges are keeping the temperature at 73°F a good temperature.

I had never used Rapid Rooters and they hold too much water so that the new roots could not get enough air. The idea behind the deck in the net pot is that air bubbles popping just below the surface of the deck (1/4") will keep the germinating media moist not soggy. Current Culture uses rockwool as the suggested media but I don't like Rockwool in my living space. When the roots have sufficiently grown down into the reservoir the water level is lowered to 1/4" below the bottom of the net pot. I will be raising the net pot instead of lowering the water. I want to keep as much reservoir volume as possible. What that does is raise the root crown and main stem above the wet zone preventing crown or stem rot. I have not used these net pots before so time will tell how well they perform.

Much of this grow is experimental as the DIY COBs and 730 nm lights are also new along with the reservoir and net pots. Rapid Rooters failed in this system. As I said before many growers have good success with RRs in soil so in no way am I condemning them. They just stay too wet in my new DWC.
 
I can see Amphetamine’s (from now on “A”) seed shell pushing up now but still below the surface. Hopefully tomorrow she will break the surface. Not wanting to hold back Narcotic Kush (from now on “NK”). I have prepared the first reservoir capacity of 25% strength nutrients. I am aerating it tonight for a final PH adjustment to 6.0 before changing it out tomorrow.
Week 1 feeding consists of 5 gal. Tap water, carbon filtered PPM 138.
10 ml Botanicare Hydroguard.
Dyna-Gro:
3 ml Pro-Tekt
6.5 ml Foliage-Pro
6.5 ml K-L-N
PH-Down as needed
As soon as A is up the Light schedule will be set to 18/6 to start. The six hour night is to conserve energy. After a couple of weeks in I will go to 20/4.
The tent is running 73°F @ 65% RH. The surface temperature of the Bio-sponge is 76°F as I have half of the eight cobs turned off and the remaining are at 50% (the lowest I can go). The cobs are 24” above the plants. I am keeping the humidity up with a small ultrasonic vaporizer running just outside of the tent intake. It uses about .5 gallon of distilled water per 24 hours.
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This is the Dyna-gro nutrient schedule/% I will be using for this grow. In addition I will use Hydroguard 2 ml./gal. throughout and Mammoth P 0.6 ml. /gal. after week 1. Be sure to note that Pro-Tekt is always mixed alone and first.

dynagro_Autoflower_nutesDWC1.png


dynagro_Autoflower_nutes.png
 
Re: Amphetamine & Narcotic Kush

Wow. I was layin down in bed when i saw you light i was sitting.

This is what i build out of 6xClu0481212. 5x 80Cri 1x 90 Cri and 2x Vero 29.7 3500K. The striped heatsink is for 730nm Diodes. 2 drivers for COBs 1 for Diodes. LOL

COBS alone pull 50 to 410W without The fans.

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Nice stuff you got there. Subbed.
 
Re: Amphetamine & Narcotic Kush

Please have a look at my thread too if you want. It is called 'My very first DIY COB fixture' and is in the DIY Section. Got over 4000 views to date and its about my journey to find light. My actual grow gets some attention in there too, but mainly its about the lights. Lot of cool heads active in there :) have a nice day and good luck with your projects.
 
Re: Amphetamine & Narcotic Kush

Twin:
That is just a junction box on the COB frame. This is what the controller looks like right now:
DSC0021513.JPG


I am running the Arduino software connected to my PC right now to verify it does what I programed it to do. Not always the case!

Ps. I have a very patient wife - The dining room table has looked like that for 2 weeks now............. I did make some progress on it today.
LOL same here with my wife and the table too, we must have been linked someway. I started thinking about this end october and worked my way through this since early November 16. So nice to see you into this too

I am lookimg for that calculator now. Cannot find it easyly. I am at work. :/
 
Re: Amphetamine & Narcotic Kush

Hi Twin - Welcome:

When I cut my hatch for the pump and PH/EC access it will be in the middle and will allow me use a pair of scissors if needed. I am using feminised seed but cohabitation always adds additional risks.

Here is what I am building:

MEAN WELL HLG-185H-C1400B 1400mA $54.00 x 2

Mouser

ARCTIC Alpine 64 GT Rev. 2 x 8

Amazon

Citizen CLU048-1212C4-353H6K2 x 8

Here are the calculations for 1400 ma:

FullPower.jpg


This is the heart of the light. I also added 4 semiLeds 730 nm to manipulate the Phytochrome effect. I will be posting some pictures here later.

I could really use some info where to find that calculator. Greez

Found it but it does not work claiming i havent entered data
 
Seymore - Welcome!

Great minds think alike! I was on a tight budget to build the light and that dictated a lot of my choices. This is the DIY light's first grow. I used the City calculator found on another forum. You need to have Java installed, updated and working to run it. This is my first experience with COB LEDs I had no idea how penetrating the light would be. At 24" 50% power on 4 cobs only the light is warming the surface of the reservoir. I am excited to see the crop in full power.

I will check out your thread.
 
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