Didn't know where to turn, please help!

Rnn165

Active Member
Seedlings are about 3 weeks old (i know theyre small but i overwatered when they were younger and they started slow). They only had the cotyledons and 1 set of single finger true leaves at 2 weeks [see smaller plant pics] and in the last week they really began growing the new nodes quickly [see larger pics]. But as the new nodes really started coming in the 1st set of true leaves started yellowing and shriveling up. I know this happens to the cotyledons but did i maybe damage the plant early on and the new growth is now the healthy growth? Should i transplant them into a soil/perlite mix? I started them in just soil as my budget was low and didnt think my bagseeds would actually germ lol. Anything helps! Its my first grow and i have a 300w cheaper led light. I know its not a true 300w but its all i got for now. Its hanging 18-20 inches above them. I now water about every 3rd day and gave about a 1/10th strength feeding on the last watering (literally barely anything). Pics should be attached!
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first, lets make sure you have drainage holes in the bottom of your cups. Second, don't transplant until the plants have filled up those cups with roots. Third, lets talk about watering. You don't need nutes yet, all they need is in that soil for the moment. So watering... how often are you doing it? how much are you giving when you do?
Moved to watering every 3 days when top is pretty much bone dry. I have 8 or so holes poked in the bottom and i water 3-5 ounces in each, that seems to be when the water just starts to run out the bottom. As you can see i have them propped up on bottlecaps so they dont sit in the water that drains out the bottom. With the fan i have blowing in there any wayer that drains out dries within a few hours.
 
Moved to watering every 3 days when top is pretty much bone dry. I have 8 or so holes poked in the bottom and i water 3-5 ounces in each, that seems to be when the water just starts to run out the bottom. As you can see i have them propped up on bottlecaps so they dont sit in the water that drains out the bottom. With the fan i have blowing in there any wayer that drains out dries within a few hours.
Switch your mindset to watering only when the BOTTOM of the cups have dried out... the top really doesnt matter. The best way to do this is by using the lift the pot method... if you can feel water weight still in the cup, it is not time to water.

What looks like is happening is that by watering on your set schedule, you got ahead of the plants and started supplying water faster than they could use it. After a while of coming in with new water every 3 days, a pool of water started to build up in the bottom of the container that was never quite used up, and then you come along and fill it back up again. This makes it impossible for the lower roots to ever see the oxygen that they need periodically, so to protect themselves from the constant floods, they encase themselves in a protective coating, waiting for the water to go away. While this is happening, the ability to uptake water and nutrients is restricted, so you are seeing the signs of this in your first set of leaves.

Next time, wait for the plant to actually use all the water before you water again. Forget this watering by a schedule idea... it doesn't work. it might take 4 or 5 days the first time for the container to be dried out by the plant. Wait it out. Make the plant seek all of that water. This will make the roots stronger and the next cycle will take less time, maybe 3-4 days to totally drain the water. Wait it out. The next time, the roots will have developed quite a bit, and I bet the plant can use all the water you can soak that soil with, in 3 days. Wait it out.... Get that wet/dry cycle down to 1-2 days. Then, you can be sure you have developed the strongest roots possible in that small solo cup space. When your plant can show you this strong of water usage, it is time to uppot to the next sized container, and start this root building process all over again.
 
Switch your mindset to watering only when the BOTTOM of the cups have dried out... the top really doesnt matter. The best way to do this is by using the lift the pot method... if you can feel water weight still in the cup, it is not time to water.

What looks like is happening is that by watering on your set schedule, you got ahead of the plants and started supplying water faster than they could use it. After a while of coming in with new water every 3 days, a pool of water started to build up in the bottom of the container that was never quite used up, and then you come along and fill it back up again. This makes it impossible for the lower roots to ever see the oxygen that they need periodically, so to protect themselves from the constant floods, they encase themselves in a protective coating, waiting for the water to go away. While this is happening, the ability to uptake water and nutrients is restricted, so you are seeing the signs of this in your first set of leaves.

Next time, wait for the plant to actually use all the water before you water again. Forget this watering by a schedule idea... it doesn't work. it might take 4 or 5 days the first time for the container to be dried out by the plant. Wait it out. Make the plant seek all of that water. This will make the roots stronger and the next cycle will take less time, maybe 3-4 days to totally drain the water. Wait it out. The next time, the roots will have developed quite a bit, and I bet the plant can use all the water you can soak that soil with, in 3 days. Wait it out.... Get that wet/dry cycle down to 1-2 days. Then, you can be sure you have developed the strongest roots possible in that small solo cup space. When your plant can show you this strong of water usage, it is time to uppot to the next sized container, and start this root building process all over again.
Ok thank so much i appreciate the help! Any other idea of how i can tell the bottom is dry? Maybe just give them 5 days or so and use that as my dry weight?
 
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