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Fanleaf's Huge 42 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds
- Thread starter fanleaf
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- #1,062
fanleaf
Well-Known Member
Sure...pm me, when I get back home Ill send you the tool.
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Buckshot317
Plant of the Month: Mar 2018
Where you getting pots, you won't get 100% from mouser
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fanleaf
Well-Known Member
I order in bulk from ebay. Then I test each one. I throw away the ones that dont go to at least 97k ohms. The ones I always use first test from 101k ohms to 107k ohms.
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Buckshot317
Plant of the Month: Mar 2018
My dad has preached same thing since I was kid, to test everything. He's been in electronic business for 40+ years. I take for granted that components are as specs say, I double check now. Hey fan I thought you might like this pic, I have case of these, and another case of the analog meters. I haven't seen anyone use in while, antique
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Buckshot317
Plant of the Month: Mar 2018
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Lansky
New Member
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- #1,069
fanleaf
Well-Known Member
Ha...Love it. Ill grab you a pic of one I have that I still use. You will enjoy this too. When I wake up in the morning I'll grab a picture post it for you.My dad has preached same thing since I was kid, to test everything. He's been in electronic business for 40+ years. I take for granted that components are as specs say, I double check now. Hey fan I thought you might like this pic, I have case of these, and another case of the analog meters. I haven't seen anyone use in while, antique
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- Thread starter
- #1,070
fanleaf
Well-Known Member
Sure will. Laying down right now but Ill get it to you.
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- #1,071
fanleaf
Well-Known Member
What I want to know is what million dollar instrument you have that is measuring your total lumen output? As far as I know a sphere is the only tool that can do it. A meter only tests 1 single point where a sphere tests whole output at once.
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skoondawg
Well-Known Member
Hey Jim, what driver are you using to run 4 veros at 1400ma?
8981x 4
35,924
I don't lie to my customers. I tell them the specs. I tell them that they are "manufacturer specifications" only....that it may be less, it may be more.
I figure an honest upfront product will sell better than all the "led hype" put out by my competitors. Plus a 4 cob Vero 29 D series system running 1400 mA at $388.00 usd is a good deal by anyone's standards.
Unfortunately I still can compete with these amazing "1800 watt" 6 cob systems for the same price.
Those must be some really high end Blurple COBs at 300w a piece. Is Cree aware of this amazing technology coming out of China?
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JimmyJames905
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skoondawg
Well-Known Member
Oh nice, I thought it was just under 4 cobs on a 185, obviously runs then .
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Would it be better to have 12 veros running on 3 drivers (4 each on a 185/1400) or 2 drivers (6 each on a 320/1400)?
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JimmyJames905
New Member
JimmyJames905
New Member
This fits perfectly. I have 0.6v left over.
I actually argued with GARY at Mouser for over two weeks about it working. On paper it says no. In the real world it works. Can't explain if it's Meanwell or Bridgelux mussing up the math but someone needs to be fired. Lol.
I'd go the 185-1400 on those or if you want more oomph 4 chips on the 240-1750.
Let me check the math before I get called out again for not being 100% accurate. Lol.
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JimmyJames905
New Member
I can't commit on the 1750.
I'll test it out and see.
I built a Cree with 36v 4 cob at 1750 and it worked with a few volts left over.
I'll order a 1750 Monday and let you know.
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I was rereading this and I don't think you really got an answer to your question.
It's partly because I know that it took me quite awhile to absorb all the info, so it's hard to sum it all up - there are a lot of numbers to go over. When you say that COBs are more efficient when they're "under-driven", I think I get what your asking. You have to go over the Lu/watt numbers for various COBs at various currents. If in your case you've already decided on 3590s, then choosing a driver is pretty simple. The one caution I'd make is not to get a driver that gives you more current than you need. These COBs put out much more light than we're used to - there's no need to go past 1200 ppfd (about 130,000 COB lumens in a 4x4) unless you have a fantastic environment with control over everything. Without that, you'll just have the ability to thoroughly toast your plants with all that extra light.
Decide how much light you need and get those drivers. 50 watts per square foot is as much as you "need".Then it's a matter of efficiency. Bigger COBs are more efficient, sometimes shockingly so. All of them become more efficient as you lower the current, roughly 7-9 points every third. If it's 160 Lu/w at 1400ma, then it's probably around 168 at 1050ma, and 176 at 700ma. Roughly - just a rule of thumb. 50% efficiency is somewhere around 160 Lu/w.
The driver really isn't involved in the more important design decisions. First multiply your sqft by 50 watts and get your total wattage, then work with various Lu/w for different COBs at different currents. Drivers can complicate things when you're deciding whether to run 4 or 5 or 6 COBs off each one, but once you've chosen your configuration for the number of COBs and how hard you're going to power them the driver choice is pretty obvious. All of the MWs for instance are equally efficient. The watts per dollar is slightly better on the 185Hs and the 240Hs.
The only other complcation I would mention is whether to use constant current MeanWells, or a cheaper non-dimmable driver, or even individual drivers (85% efficient vs 95% for the MWs), dimmable and not. There's a configuration for instance where you use one large driver to power all the COBs at a constant voltage and then use simple individual power amps to deliver the current you want. You can make it complicated, but at this stage of development the good choices are narrow. The MWs are very efficient and trustworthy, and they keep everything simple.
The other thing I'd like to mention is that it can be tempting to get way into the weeds chasing small improvements in efficiency and missing others. The difference between 160 Lu/w and 156 Lu/w is only 3%. You can lose that much by dimming the driver down past 80%. You can lose than much by letting a sink run a little too hot.
Oh, and another thing. The temperature of the chip has far more to with the sink than it does with the current level. When you lower the current on a chip it doesn't run any cooler - it just doesn't heat up as much given the same size sink. If you're dimming a larger driver to get the lower current, you're probably not getting enough additional efficiency from the chip to make much difference. You'd be better off simply moving more air over the sinks.
I may be a lil loaded, so sorry if that was a ramble.
Man'O'Green
Well-Known Member
8981x 4
35,924
I don't lie to my customers. I tell them the specs. I tell them that they are "manufacturer specifications" only....that it may be less, it may be more.
I figure an honest upfront product will sell better than all the "led hype" put out by my competitors. Plus a 4 cob Vero 29 D series system running 1400 mA at $388.00 usd is a good deal by anyone's standards.
Unfortunately I still can compete with these amazing "1800 watt" 6 cob systems for the same price.
Those must be some really high end Blurple COBs at 300w a piece. Is Cree aware of this amazing technology coming out of China?
Sent from my iPhone using 420 Magazine Mobile App
The price for that BOSSLED light is down to $297.19 not selling?
No dimming but still might be a good value for a small tent. They want you to turn it off every 5 - 6 hours for 20 minutes? Here are the specs.
JimmyJames905
New Member
The price for that BOSSLED light is down to $297.19 not selling?
No dimming but still might be a good value for a small tent. They want you to turn it off every 5 - 6 hours for 20 minutes? Here are the specs.
I'm always suspicious when I see the words "Epistar" and "300w". I started with epistar chips. I had 9 chips. Only 1 works now. Lasted a little over a year.
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