Typically your constant current LED driver will run 30 to 80v depending on configuration and then you add moisture and it can be a shock hazard. Those conductors are often exposed such as quantum boards traces and anode cathode of LEDs which is a risk. Silk screen insulator on circuit board is very thin as well if you were to hit it with something metal. Which is why those types of lights should only be diy.
If youre going to do diy modules I recommend a UL or ETL listed driver. Cheap Chinese ones are often not fused or grounded properly. Then I'd recommend what they call a double insulated supply. It usually is a square within a square logo on which means there is an air gap via a transformer from wall power inside the supply. Helps limit. Then id look for what they call UL listed Class 2. This means in theory you can short the positive and negative terminals together and not cause a fire. Class 2 os 100w or less. This is why I usually recommend using multiple Meanwell supplies 100w or less rather than the big ones. It also helps spread heat and is less detrimental if there is a premature failure.
If youre going to do diy modules I recommend a UL or ETL listed driver. Cheap Chinese ones are often not fused or grounded properly. Then I'd recommend what they call a double insulated supply. It usually is a square within a square logo on which means there is an air gap via a transformer from wall power inside the supply. Helps limit. Then id look for what they call UL listed Class 2. This means in theory you can short the positive and negative terminals together and not cause a fire. Class 2 os 100w or less. This is why I usually recommend using multiple Meanwell supplies 100w or less rather than the big ones. It also helps spread heat and is less detrimental if there is a premature failure.
