I need your opinion / JH Auto under 250w

[Becker]

Hi all,

This plant has suffered a lot, as you can see for yourselfez, i think the owner is also very easy on the triger with the nutes. soil was very dry, i gave it tons of water, leaves look a but more pointing up this morning.
what is your opinion on it? is it lacking some specific nute maybe? i will check tomorow again.
just watered a little bit moore i will ask what soil it is, BC in my opinion it is crap.
amost forgot, temps and humidity are ok, 20-21 degrees steady and 40-50% humidity.

 

[Becker]

just made some tests, water drains like hell trough 2 pots with the same soil.

Some pics in a moment.

 

[Becker]

Here the pics of water draining.

 

[Blueballavngr]

No bugs under leaves?
Most common advice will
Be to flush your soil with ph adjusted water heavily. Then check
Ur run off ph too. That will tell you
A lot. then start at a half strength nutrients.
I have found a good Foliar spray helps stressed plants.
This may help you it helped me, posted by sir grow alot
check this out first...try to self diagnose and we can compare our findings. You have access to the plant and can look at it in its entirety and tell where to go on the solver here:
once you think you know, post it here and we will see if we came up with the same thing.

fun way to learn.plus this solver should be bookmarked and saved for future use


To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.

1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.

3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.

4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.

5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.

6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.

7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8…

8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.

9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...

10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.

11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.

12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.

13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.


The Nutrients:

Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foilar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.

Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.

Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.

Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foilar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.

Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.

General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N:K ratio of about 108 (which of course is the same ratio as 2016), and for flowering plants, 48. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.

PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.

Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.

Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.

Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.

Mold and Fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.

Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.

Sprays - Foilar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.

Insufficient light - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.

Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.

 

[Conradino23]

It's very low on nitrogen, hence has also problems in absobing micronutrients. You need to feed her real good.

 

[colorfuldayze]

Hi Becker, I'm colorful-come lately because I've just joined and am researching and came across your thread. I hope you got this worked out and that you were able to grow some good buds! I thought I'd go ahead and post since I have seen the exact same condition(s) your plants are displaying. I finally figured it out and have since had dark green and robust plants. Are you feeding with a salt fertilizer like miracle gro? I have for years and all too often saw this problem.

First, great pictures of your plants and kudos for sharing since this is probably a more common problem for many. From my perspective from looking at your pictures, your plants have salt burn, the soil is too acidic, and your plants are displaying chronic phosphorus and potassium deficiencies per the tell tale brown mottling and blotching of the leaves that eventually dry up and turn to crackle. The other nitrogen and micronutrient deficiencies are a compounding result of the above. If you run in to this again then stop adding feed and flush them thoroughly immediately upon onset. I flush by putting a pot in a larger container i.e. a pot or tote, and start running clean water through it repeated intervals. The water will run through the pot, running out the bottom, and slowly filling the container. Somewhere about halfway up your pot height, enough drain water will eventually float your pot so you want to stop just around that point and let the plant gel for 5 minutes. This soaking will dissolve and remove a majority of the salts and wastes in the first run. After the pot has gelled in the rinsewater, take the pot out carefully, let it drain through, and measure the pH and ppm from the wastewater in the tote if you have a tester. If you don't have one, they are a must have IMO. Repeat the flush proceedure until you get your ppm below 300ppm. I repeat it until I get less than 100ppm and using 7.5 pH and 140ppm tap water.
I keep about 5 gal of either RO water or DI water around during every gro just in case of this emergency. It makes a nice finish flush if you want but is also a really good fire hydrant for salty soil and roots.

After your final flush event, and the pot has drained of all flush water, immediately water your plants with a mild strength solution (i.e. 300-400 ppm incl. what is in your source water) of feed that is at least 15% nitrogen, 20+% phosphorus, and 15+% potassium; and when it's time to water next go to a full solution which I consider 650ppm+/- I use a 16%N-24%-P-16%P. Always water and feed such that water runs out of the base of the pot at every water; the run through doesn't have to be a lot, but enough to pool up in your catch tray w/o running over. From there your plants should improve to the point that you don't have to worry about this anymore and you can focus on dialing in on other antagonisms Hope this helps you and any others who may run in to this condition. I fought it for years until finally figuring it out the hard way. Cheers and happy growing!!

 

[colorfuldayze]

Also, I noticed all of your growth was in one side of one pot.

 

[Smokemupm8]

Yeah, the soil may not be adequate, whats PH ? Keep it about 6.2/4 in soil, maybe a good flush of water - get all excess crap out then let her dry up and then feed with half strength nutes containing NPK..
Dont over feed at this stage only need the basics but if ur leaves show any burn/blotches n such maybe time to check nutes..Good luck ! Smokem

 

[Grayhawk]

thats heat stress. sure looks like it. even dirt is dry in the picture.
reason i say heat. jock horror which i have and growing now. is really senitive on heat. least mine was till i figured it out. and it looked same as your. if temp is around 78 80 cut it down to 72 it made a whole lot of difference to mine.
check it make sure.