reducing light levels while fixing problems lowers the stress the plant undergoes.
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What’s going on big daddy @Acid
Nice work on those Air pots
No good news so far.
All 11 days old now, one seems absolutely healthy for some reason, it somehow keeps a rich green color, but the tips of the lower leaves turn a really weird color, as if they're bleached. They also become crispy, but it doesn't seem like nute burn to me? It just looks off, and is very crispy. Also generally slower growth
Another plant also seems okay, but only partly. Then there's the two in the images, still trying their best to survive, but they haven't grown for around 3 days now. Newer growth is small, limp, lifeless, and newest growth is coming out yellow again. I feed them with tapwater, Bio Grow 2ml/L, currently around 500ml per plant, PH after adding Grow goes to 6.2-6.3PH. It takes around 2 days to become dry on top, but it's only the top quarter of an inch which is dry (about 5-6mm). I also noticed that my substrate is becoming rather hard on top, as if it's a shell. Is this normal? It's dry, but I could almost break it into pieces.
Current temps around 25°C, humidity ranging between 50 and 60%.
A small plant in a large pot will primarily explore the soil and show very little growth above ground, you should see some strong growth in due course, may take 7-10 days
Crisp brown tips - usually attributed to too much light or low humidity [for 25°C 70-80% would be better]
Judging by your nodes being so tightly packed together, maybe your lamp is a little too close
Watering the whole pot [but not soaking to run-off] will up the RH considerably
Some folk mist the surface of the soil between waterings to achieve the same thing without drowning the roots
They don't look too bad - I've grown out worse Acid
Well awesome then!
Gee64 wrote a blurb on this few months back. When soil crusts over its lack of calcium but not what most of us think… it’s related to soil tilth and best way to improve it is worm castings. If I recall correctly- it can crust up from too much castings or it can crust up from too little castings… which is weird.
Anyway think the suggestion was to break the crust and gently scratch the castings in but being careful not to disturb roots with either step. But also crusting can happen with watering practices as the media becomes compacted… so yeah not exactly sure where you are in all this. But I believe this is why castings are preferred for calcium over dolomite, dolomite slams ph, casting don’t.
I’d say don’t worry about the slurry test, those numbers change as the column of water moves thru the media. But the numbers should be high from dolomite right?
Remind me photos or autos? Think it was autos and yes they will start up slower exploring a larger pot…
Anywho that’s all I got- just checking in on you man!!