Nute Burn and Multi-Part Fertilizers

Gorgar

Well-Known Member
When using a multi-part fertilizer such as GH's Flora Series (Micro, Grow and Bloom or more specifically just the Micro and Bloom and the 6/9 feeding regimen) and there is some nute burn, is it general practice to cut back in an equal percentage each component or is it better to just run a more dilute feeding of the N (Micro) component? Is nute burn strictly due to the nitrogen?

I'm currently about 4 weeks into flowering and growing in coco if that matters.

Thanks!
 
When using a multi-part fertilizer such as GH's Flora Series (Micro, Grow and Bloom or more specifically just the Micro and Bloom and the 6/9 feeding regimen) and there is some nute burn, is it general practice to cut back in an equal percentage each component or is it better to just run a more dilute feeding of the N (Micro) component? Is nute burn strictly due to the nitrogen?

I'm currently about 4 weeks into flowering and growing in coco if that matters.

Thanks!

I'm not familiar with that bloom ratio for micro/bloom, but if that is the tried and true schedule that you are following, then just try diluting the whole batch of fuel. Don't put less of one component in because it's all about the ratios with feed schedules. If you aren't following the ratio, you aren't following the schedule.
Dilution is a different story. You are basically using the "correct" ratio, just at the proper PPM for the specific plant that you are attending to.
 
The 6/9 (ml/g) of GH micro & bloom net you a 1-1.5-1.25 NPK ratio, that ratio and nutrient concentration works well for many people.

That said nutrient burn is not likely a function of your fertilizer NPK ratio or concentration as mixed, it is perhaps due to inadequate flushing of accumulated salt buildup earlier in the grow. A buildup of nutrient salts in the coco if you will.

What are your run off water ppm and pH values vs. what you put in?

If you have higher ppm values coming out than you have going in, flush the coco with low ppm pH'd water until it runs very near your input ppm and pH values. This should wash away the nutrients that are accumulating in the media and give you a cleaner slate to work with. You may find that quite a bit of water is needed to accomplish this task.

Standard practice seems to be a flush every two weeks (give or take), however your results may be different depending on how your situation dictates.

Keeping track of nutrient values going in vs. what comes out at every watering/feeding can help you determine when a flush is going to be needed.

As a side note: Excess N will cause dark green leaves and when very high levels are provided the leaves will claw.

DRM Ranch
 
If you have higher ppm values coming out than you have going in, flush the coco with low ppm pH'd water until it runs very near your input ppm and pH values. This should wash away the nutrients that are accumulating in the media and give you a cleaner slate to work with. You may find that quite a bit of water is needed to accomplish this task.

Standard practice seems to be a flush every two weeks (give or take), however your results may be different depending on how your situation dictates.

Keeping track of nutrient values going in vs. what comes out at every watering/feeding can help you determine when a flush is going to be needed.
DRM Ranch

Thanks for the advice, DRM!

Indeed, the ppm of my waste water was a couple hundred higher than my feed water. I had checked these a couple of times during my grow and had previously done a flush in the manner that you suggested (low ppm solution) and got things in check...but it took an awful lot of water to do so. In this case, as you pointed out, the burn must have been due to salt buildup and not an excess of feed solution as things appear to be recovering nicely. So I will take your advice to heart and routinely compare my in and out ppm readings.

However, my setup is not geared to moving a large amount of water so this time I tried something a little contrary to your flushing advice and did not use a weak nute solution but added some FloraKleen as a flushing agent and it seemed to help...a lot. And yes, I have seen the arguments for using a weak nute solution for flushing coco and had done it that way previously, but since things are looking pretty good after the FK flush I think that I will continue with it when needed.
 
i have used many nute lines. or parts therof. lately, over the last few runs, i have been using, with great success, "dyna-gro". one part for veg. one for bloom. low numbers. generally, i only use 1/2 tsp per gal, with every watering. halfway thru bloom, i add humbolts snowstorm, and sweet and dandy, bny fox farm. flushing, i start at least two weeks before finnish. with 45 gallons thru four four gallon pots. my ppm on my water, here, is about 130-150. mostly ca. at the end of my flush, if im double that, 300, or less. i leave it. as for the next two weeks or so, they will be using that up. just enough to finish removing the whats left of the nutes. sometimes i will, in the last week, flush em a little ounce again. my drain field is sure green. lol.
 
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