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Yeah I am used to seeing the n-p-k ratio on the front of the bagor bottle. These just had the % on the back.
So after calculating from the back of the bottle -
grow A = 2 - 2 - 6 + 0.7 magnesium
grow B = 2 - 0 - 0 + 4 calcium and some other funky stuff Molybdenum at 0.001%
It says to mix it at 30ml too 10L of water so that would be 3ml per litre of each bottle.
So we triple the NPK? So we have 6 - 6 -18 + 6 - 0 - 0 so we have 12 - 6 - 18 per litre and I am using that at half strength.
Ok I did the math and compared my grow mix to yours.
It's handy to have an ec meter to measure ppm, though not essential.
My grow formula NPK is 3-2-4, so the bottle contains 9% total of nutrients- ignoring the micronutrients. I'll spare you the math because I mix mine differently- diluted to 4 litres of water instead of ten.
If I call 'full strength' the maximum reccomended dose on the schedule written on the bottle - for the height of veg growth (which is nearly always going to be too strong and burn your plants by the way)- and I then dilute this down to 1/4 strength for seedlings, which is what I do- I will be using roughly at the same total strength as you say you're using.
So if that's confusing- the 'half strength' of your mix is roughly the same as the '1/4 strength' of mine. This concentration is what I would use for rooted seedlings between about 4 and 8" tall. Brand new cuttings and very young seedlings would get about 1/2 this- so 1/8 strength total in my case, or '1/4 strength' in yours.
The other thing to factor in your water. I use rainwater so it's basically pure- zero ppm. If you're using tap water you have to factor in the ppm of that to the total strength of your mix.
If you're using tap water you may be able to get a public ware report that will tell you everything in it. Otherwise an ec meter can at least tell you the total concentration.
Aside from that there is the issue of ph- shouldn't be a huge concern for soil as long as your soil mix is decent and your water isn't something completely crazy.
The CYCO says hydro use only so if not using it on the pots, I wonder if I can
I not sure, but I think you probably could. Perlite-only grows are a form of hydro. So is coco. They're both inert fluffy mediums -same as hydroton, which just serve to hold nutrients and provide some aeration to the roots. They use the hydro ph range and need constant ph monitoring, and also need to be supplemented with calmag. The fact that you have 20% soil is a bit of a curve ball- so I'm not sure how that equation works out.
Yeah that's coco. They compress it into blocks. It will look darker when it's wet. Hard to tell at the moment what the quality is. And I'm not a coco expert but apparently it does make a big difference what the quality is like. There used to be issues with salt in the coco blocks (coconut palms grow next to the ocean) and people would often soak and drain it a few times before using it. But I think that's more of a thing of the past- I'm not sure. If you had a ppm meter you could soak it then test the water to see if it shows any dissolved salts- or you could just rinse it well to be safe.
Got the girls all transplanted into coco. Been busy today and adjusted my cob setup so I can atleast get it going in the room to replace the crappy cfl's. So now I'm running 150w 3500k spread over 6 cobs 50w of blue light.
I've started at 24 inch from plants now I'm down too 12 inch and might even drop the lights a bit closer? What should I look for as first signs for the . too close to the light? I havnt experienced this problem with cfl's lol
I unsubed your other journal. It was done right?