dadums
Well-Known Member
I've not seen auto males I gotta look again
The Mountain: Grow Support From The Over 50 Club
- Thread starter uptheholler
- Start date
I read that Autoflowering does not imply that a plant will be female, just you don't need to change light schedules to promote flowering as Maui suggested, so you still need to weed out the males from females. There are autoflowering feminized seeds. So if my understanding is correct the only difference between Autoflowering and Regular seeds aka "Photo period" is the need for light schedule well that and you can clone a Regular seeds females however not the Autoflowering plant.
MaggiesFarm
New Member
Agreed, wouldn't think that would be a big seller.
- Thread starter
- #184
uptheholler
New Member
Ok ..remember that you asked for it...here is the common sense run down on autoflowering seeds in Holler's world.
First, let's discuss basic marijuana species. There are 3...
-Cannabis sativa: The most commonly recognized species. Longer thinner leaflets, usually more leaflets per leaf. Potent ..with generally higher THC potentilas genetically speaking. Taller plants with a longer average flowering time to senescence.
-Cannabis indica: This species is most commonly kown for wider leaflets with fewr leaflets per leaf. Potent and odorous with a usually much shorter flowering and senescence period due to it's environmental evolution.Higher CBD levels.
-Cannabis ruderalis: This 3rd species is truly an result of it's environment. The ruderalis species evolved in higher latitiude areas with very long days during summer, but , with summers themselves being very short. This meant for the species to be able to reproduce it had to evolve to flower and produce seed within a short growing season not dependent upon photoperiod. This species is not known to be of dramatic potentcy.
By crossing Ruderalis species with Sativas and Indicas we try to achieve 2 basic results. We look to pass on the ability to flower independent of day lengths but at the same time increase potency and flavor to acceptable levels.
I'm getting called for grub...If there is an interest i will dispel some of the mis-information that there is about auto cultivation.
First, let's discuss basic marijuana species. There are 3...
-Cannabis sativa: The most commonly recognized species. Longer thinner leaflets, usually more leaflets per leaf. Potent ..with generally higher THC potentilas genetically speaking. Taller plants with a longer average flowering time to senescence.
-Cannabis indica: This species is most commonly kown for wider leaflets with fewr leaflets per leaf. Potent and odorous with a usually much shorter flowering and senescence period due to it's environmental evolution.Higher CBD levels.
-Cannabis ruderalis: This 3rd species is truly an result of it's environment. The ruderalis species evolved in higher latitiude areas with very long days during summer, but , with summers themselves being very short. This meant for the species to be able to reproduce it had to evolve to flower and produce seed within a short growing season not dependent upon photoperiod. This species is not known to be of dramatic potentcy.
By crossing Ruderalis species with Sativas and Indicas we try to achieve 2 basic results. We look to pass on the ability to flower independent of day lengths but at the same time increase potency and flavor to acceptable levels.
I'm getting called for grub...If there is an interest i will dispel some of the mis-information that there is about auto cultivation.
MaggiesFarm
New Member
^^^^ I'm interested ^^^^
Heck Holler is always interesting. I'm having some strange flowering patterns. I have 7 autos, 4 Bubblelicious and 3 Northern Lights. The bubblelicious is all over the place, I have one that started flowering about 2 weeks ago, and I noticed yesterday 2 more are showing and the 4th isn't showing yet. 2 are outside and 2 in the greenhouse. The one that isn't showing is outside. They were all germinated at the same time.
- Thread starter
- #187
uptheholler
New Member
Hey Bill.. I noticed the exact same thing but that is just indicative of the non-hybrid nature of the seed that we are dealing with. Almost none of the seeds we by are actually true breeding hybrids but they are rather crosses with similar traits but with differing phenotypes acrossed a population.
Here are the answers to some questions. I am giving these answers not in the guise of an auto expert but as the best observations that I could make as a general plant expert.
Some of the misconceptions that I have heard or read include:
- You cannot transplant an auto flower plant. False. If done correctly and timed properly your auto plant will not only NOT be stunted by transplanting, it will benefit greatly in total plant mass.
-You cannot prune or "top" an auto flower. False. An auto flower plant has the same reaction to the breaking of apical dominance as a normal photoperiodic pot plant. Again timing is important.
NOTE: Pruning and transplanting may increase the maturity time of the plant but it can greatly increase yield.
-Do maintain a consistant watering and fertilization schedule. This is more important to an auto flower plant. Any mistakes early on can more negatively impact your harvest totals with an auto flower plant. With a regular photo plant you have time to fix your mistakes and still not effect you harvest as much.
- Auto plants are potent or have a bad or weak flavor. I'm sure some do but breeders have begun to make impressive inroads in this direction.
- Regular auto flower seeds aren't as good as feminized. Well it depends upon what you plan to do. If you just want quick bud then you are probably correct. However with straight run auto or even landrace 'ruderalis' seeds you can create your own auto versions of your favarite standard plants. Just remember to keep your expectations realistic on what you can expect as far as consistancy in your line. ( This is exactly whay Bill was observing, Plants from the same seed batch with maturity times that can vary by a few weeks)
-I am very excited by the potential of auto plants. At the risk of sounding repetitive, they can utilize wasted light during the vegetative stage in a grow room and be pulled out when you flip your plants for a basically free harvest!
All in all I hope I have answered a few of your questions. Best of luck!
Here are the answers to some questions. I am giving these answers not in the guise of an auto expert but as the best observations that I could make as a general plant expert.
Some of the misconceptions that I have heard or read include:
- You cannot transplant an auto flower plant. False. If done correctly and timed properly your auto plant will not only NOT be stunted by transplanting, it will benefit greatly in total plant mass.
-You cannot prune or "top" an auto flower. False. An auto flower plant has the same reaction to the breaking of apical dominance as a normal photoperiodic pot plant. Again timing is important.
NOTE: Pruning and transplanting may increase the maturity time of the plant but it can greatly increase yield.
-Do maintain a consistant watering and fertilization schedule. This is more important to an auto flower plant. Any mistakes early on can more negatively impact your harvest totals with an auto flower plant. With a regular photo plant you have time to fix your mistakes and still not effect you harvest as much.
- Auto plants are potent or have a bad or weak flavor. I'm sure some do but breeders have begun to make impressive inroads in this direction.
- Regular auto flower seeds aren't as good as feminized. Well it depends upon what you plan to do. If you just want quick bud then you are probably correct. However with straight run auto or even landrace 'ruderalis' seeds you can create your own auto versions of your favarite standard plants. Just remember to keep your expectations realistic on what you can expect as far as consistancy in your line. ( This is exactly whay Bill was observing, Plants from the same seed batch with maturity times that can vary by a few weeks)
-I am very excited by the potential of auto plants. At the risk of sounding repetitive, they can utilize wasted light during the vegetative stage in a grow room and be pulled out when you flip your plants for a basically free harvest!
All in all I hope I have answered a few of your questions. Best of luck!
I see your point, I will have to reevaluate auto feminized, I like the idea of using all that wasted light on the regular cycle veg
I have a question about BUD CANDY. Can it be used with my other nutrients? Or would I have to stop and only use one or the other. I use Technaflora nutrients right now.
Also, how long into flower before trichone production should begin?
Also, how long into flower before trichone production should begin?
The Ladies are looking extremely well! It looks this has been my problem all along
I noticed these variances just in the one batch of seed of received from my garden. Some plants just matured quicker than others, while some just seemed bent on growing at their leisure.
Firstly I am Eno, a long time consumer beginner grower . I thank all involved for admittance to these hollowed halls. I started at the mountain and was warmly greeted.(I am old) A quick question. I have a few ladies in flower and on one of them the trichromes have turned at least 60% red orange. I am only four and a half weeks into the flowering stage. Do I harvest this one plant now?
Conradino23
Well-Known Member
Eno, it's way past peak harvest now. It's not that important if you're growing pure indica, which you probably do cause these are ready sometimes before 5th week finishes. But even in that case you took away from your high. Basically, you just pushed your plant to heavy THC-breaking-into-CBN stage, which usually results in flat, sedative stone. I'd suggest you harvest immediately.
dadums
Well-Known Member
Welcome Eno. Are looking at your buds with a 40 or 60 power magnifying glass. I have never seen trichromes turn turn red orange. Doesn't mean it doesn't happen but I haven't seen it. The pistils turn a red orange as you get further along in flowering. Just my thoughts.
I meant the pistils. I also meant to post in the Over Fifty Club thread. I hadn't even had any yet. I read that I should harvest when the pistils change color. I had two grows last year, both flowered much longer than five weeks. The colas grew pretty well. This year they are not filled in and are changing color already. I don't know if they should be left or if I need to harvest. I took out two that were almost all red-orange. The leaves are still a nice green.
Eno, you need to get a small scope to look at the trichromes. You want the trichromes to be cloudy or if you like a more couch lock type of meds let them turn to amber. About 30% amber will keep you in the chair. I like the all cloudy and that is when the thc is at it's best. Go to amazon and type in small microscope. there are cheap one that work great and some a little more that are great or if you have a Hydro store near by they will have them.
dadums
Well-Known Member
Eno
Something like this.
I held it up to my camera lens and took pretty good pictures.
This was taken with a 40X loupe
Something like this.
I held it up to my camera lens and took pretty good pictures.
This was taken with a 40X loupe
Welcome to 420 Eno. I agree with Beemerbill all the way but differ on one detail.
Much past 50% cloudy, and it's a good bet for couch lock for me. 30% amber would render me unconscious. LOL.Stigmas can parallel trichome development for awhile. On many strains the stigmas start to shrivel and shrink before the trichomes get to the preferred state. Sometimes they stay beautiful for quite awhile. It even varies with different plants of the same strain.
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