What is the correct Ratio of N-P-K?
- Thread starter GigaGrew
- Start date
Hi Everyone, I'm doing a organic Super soil n my main amendments are going to be
Bat guano 7-3-1
Seabird guano. 0-11-0
Alfalfa meal. 2.5-0.5-2.5
Kelp meal. 1-0.1-2
Azomite. 0-0-0.2
Langbeinite 0-0-22 - is what I want to add for the extra potassium n Magnesium. It all Adds up to be alo more K= 10.5-14.6-30.5 Any Thoughts ???
Bat guano 7-3-1
Seabird guano. 0-11-0
Alfalfa meal. 2.5-0.5-2.5
Kelp meal. 1-0.1-2
Azomite. 0-0-0.2
Langbeinite 0-0-22 - is what I want to add for the extra potassium n Magnesium. It all Adds up to be alo more K= 10.5-14.6-30.5 Any Thoughts ???
1 main though- follow someone’s recipe …… building your own soil mix is not something to experiment with.
and not just some dweeb from YouTube either… look for someone very well known like Clackamus Coots
and not just some dweeb from YouTube either… look for someone very well known like Clackamus Coots
How much of everything are you using, and how much soil are you putting it in? Without that knowledge we can't tell you if it's going to be perfect and grow fantastic plants or "Frankensoil" that kills everything you put in it.
I'm doing it by the Instructions all DTE products , 4 5gallon pots. I think I might just ad enough Langbeinite for 2 gallons instead of the full 5gallons to cut back the Potassium
Houston we have a problem… if you are following the instructions then follow them… but I’m pretty confident that cutting percentage of Langbenite is not following the instructions.
no doubt 10.5-14.6-30.5 is high on K but also you didn’t mention calcium. Who wrote the instructions is the BIG question? Thats part of running Frankensoil, there’s always more shit needed to fix a problem that causes other shit to go wrong… it’s a circular crapfest chasing issues.
Mixing peat, guanos and meals does not make a soil, depending on who’s recipe it needs to be mixed, watered in, mycos and microbed up, placed in tub or barrel, sealed with a lid and cooked for 30 days or more. This activates the ingredients
You could a bale of HP Pro Mix and 2 bags of Geoflora organic dry mix, one for veg, one for flower. You add GF dry mix to your bucket or grow bag as you fill it with soil, then every 2 weeks add measure as top dress and water in, boom you are done.
no doubt 10.5-14.6-30.5 is high on K but also you didn’t mention calcium. Who wrote the instructions is the BIG question? Thats part of running Frankensoil, there’s always more shit needed to fix a problem that causes other shit to go wrong… it’s a circular crapfest chasing issues.
Mixing peat, guanos and meals does not make a soil, depending on who’s recipe it needs to be mixed, watered in, mycos and microbed up, placed in tub or barrel, sealed with a lid and cooked for 30 days or more. This activates the ingredients
You could a bale of HP Pro Mix and 2 bags of Geoflora organic dry mix, one for veg, one for flower. You add GF dry mix to your bucket or grow bag as you fill it with soil, then every 2 weeks add measure as top dress and water in, boom you are done.
Welcome aboard. Lot of good info on this message board. With enough looking around you will find others who are growing the same as you and even using the same sort of "super soil". And there will be plenty of us that are familiar with and even using the amendments you might mention.
You have 4 pots and each is 5 gallons. That means you need a minimum of 20 gallons of soil and for now you can skip worrying about how many pots and how large they are.
The first step is the base mix. For just about every super soil recipe the base is nothing more than a standard potting soil mix. It will consist of three ingredients.
The first is compost or rich soil. This is where the micro-organisms will live and provides them their food. The second one is Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss (not regular Sphagnum Moss) which will help keep the mix from compacting but most importantly helps hold water to keep the base mix from drying out too fast. The third is Perlite or a similar ingredient and this also helps the soil from compacting plus it helps keep the soil mix aerated and it will hold a bit of water.
Mix one part of each of the three until you have over 20 gallons of soil mix. If you are using a 5 gallon bucket then it would be 1 and a half buckets of compost, 1 and a half of Peat Moss and 1 and a half of Perlite. End result is 22.5 gallons of base mix. Blend it all together.
Now add in the amendments measured out based on the amount of base mix you made. The amendments will not change the volume of the base enough to be noticeable. Blend it all together again. Figure out how to store it for a month or so. That way the micro-organisms that were in the compost or rich soil can start to eat the water-insoluble parts of the amendments.
My method is to use a 2 and a half gallon bucket. I fill it twice with compost so 5 gallons. Once with Peat Moss and once with Perlite for another 5 gallons. I have figured out the amendments and will add so many cups of each to the 10 gallons of base mix. It all fits into the wheel-barrow so that is where I do the mixing. I use the trowel most of the time figuring the extra work is good exercise and good for my upper arms. Look carefully and there is a roach on top just so the micro-organisms know what their efforts will be used for.
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You probably have found one or more super-soil recipes and they should all start off with the "base mix" that will hold any amendments. No mention that I noticed of your base mix.
You have 4 pots and each is 5 gallons. That means you need a minimum of 20 gallons of soil and for now you can skip worrying about how many pots and how large they are.
The first step is the base mix. For just about every super soil recipe the base is nothing more than a standard potting soil mix. It will consist of three ingredients.
The first is compost or rich soil. This is where the micro-organisms will live and provides them their food. The second one is Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss (not regular Sphagnum Moss) which will help keep the mix from compacting but most importantly helps hold water to keep the base mix from drying out too fast. The third is Perlite or a similar ingredient and this also helps the soil from compacting plus it helps keep the soil mix aerated and it will hold a bit of water.
Mix one part of each of the three until you have over 20 gallons of soil mix. If you are using a 5 gallon bucket then it would be 1 and a half buckets of compost, 1 and a half of Peat Moss and 1 and a half of Perlite. End result is 22.5 gallons of base mix. Blend it all together.
Now add in the amendments measured out based on the amount of base mix you made. The amendments will not change the volume of the base enough to be noticeable. Blend it all together again. Figure out how to store it for a month or so. That way the micro-organisms that were in the compost or rich soil can start to eat the water-insoluble parts of the amendments.
My method is to use a 2 and a half gallon bucket. I fill it twice with compost so 5 gallons. Once with Peat Moss and once with Perlite for another 5 gallons. I have figured out the amendments and will add so many cups of each to the 10 gallons of base mix. It all fits into the wheel-barrow so that is where I do the mixing. I use the trowel most of the time figuring the extra work is good exercise and good for my upper arms. Look carefully and there is a roach on top just so the micro-organisms know what their efforts will be used for.
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BuzzzD
Well-Known Member
Wow - resurrecting a 11 year old thread!!
Good info!!!
Good info!!!
Adding up the NPK numbers is not necessary. Some more math would be need, including division, to give the ratios. It is also like trying to measure soil pH by testing the water in the saucer, we just keep chasing our tails and wear ourselves out while getting nowhere. We have to know how fast the micro-organisms will work the water-insoluble ingredients in order to release the NPK.
You are right about the calcium. Probably two types might be better, one fast release and one slow. And, no mention of Bio-Char which helps provide space for the micro-organisms to develop colonies and store available nutrients.
From my notes some older but still valid threads:
Discussing Coot's recipe and no-till mixes
Coot's recipe top and center and discussing mixing it all up
More Coot's recipe thoughts including mention of Worm Castings
Only the first msg which was edited to remove the reference to some other competing web site or message board.
.great info by SmokingWings!!!
apologies, my bad.
totally forgot to say Welcome Nickname!!!
apologies, my bad.
totally forgot to say Welcome Nickname!!!
Thanks, I forgot to put, that I'm adding Oyster shell, using Ocean Forest , Strawberry Fields, Compost, Pumice, Coco chips instead of bark to feed microbe, Mycos, Trichoderma, Beneficial Bacteria. That Langebenite I was kinda worried about. Few people use it n it's even on DTE List from the Website itself just for Cannabis. The Few who use it say use it lightly. Alot of people add less Amendments with their Batch of Soil. Langbeinite has alot of Magnesium n Sulphur, why they said use just a lil bit
Thanks Smoking Wings, I forgot to put, that I'm adding Oyster shell, using Ocean Forest , Strawberry Fields, Compost, Pumice, Coco chips instead of bark to feed microbe, Mycos, Trichoderma, Beneficial Bacteria. That Langebenite I was kinda worried about. Few people use it n it's even on DTE List from the Website itself just for Cannabis. The Few who use it say use it lightly. Alot of people add less Amendments with their Batch of Soil. Langbeinite has alot of Magnesium n Sulphur, why they said use just a lil bit
No worries!
I have the feeling is that it is a long term source of the nutrients mentioned since it is pulverized mineral or gemstone.Langbeinite has alot of Magnesium n Sulphur, why they said use just a lil bit
Part of the idea behind a super soil is that the soil releases nutrients for the growing plant on a schedule. As the plant gets larger and demands more from the soil we often see that there is not enough available. But, by then the slower release sources are starting to become available. When the plant goes into flower there is even more demand on the soil and the plant needs more Potassium and by then the Langbeinite with is 0-0-22 NPK is becoming available. One of the reasons we seem multiple sources for the macro and micro nutrients; if the selection is right each ingredient starts to kick in just before the plant's demand is more than was available a week or two earlier.
Just my thoughts on how it all works together.
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