coots recipe for a spidermite spray, copied from BaS with permission.
ClackamasCoots's Effective Spider Mite and Pest Spray without Neem
May 15 2014, 1 Comment
Looking for a pest spray that actually works?
Mint Family Plants for Pest Spray
Okay this is Awesome! I have had a few customers write in asking for tips on Home Made Pest Sprays that didn't require the use of Neem. Main reason being that as a grower, you might find yourself in a battle against pests and not have any Neem oil on hand. That being said I fired off an email to ClackamasCoots who is unbelievably helpful and he wrote back with this detailed email that was to good to summarize... here is the email conversation that we had this morning.
All Credit to ClackamasCoots:
Jeremy
Yes, you can use cilantro as well as other members of the Mint family (Lamiaceae or Labiatae) and the link has a list you can review.
The reason that Mint plants are as effective can be explained at this list for both culinary Lavender and medicinal Lavender - link
Look at the compounds and many of these are used commercially in their synthetic forms. Linalool is a good example, the synthetic form is what the Orkin Man sprays around homes, It’s these terpenes, terpenoids and ketones that provide pesticide and fungicide benefits.
So are some better than others? You bet! Fortunately the best ones are the easiest to grow - specifically peppermint, spearmint, lemon balm (!!!), thyme (add Borneol to your list with this one), sage, rosemary (!!!!) and of course cilantro. The problem with cilantro is that it’s a PITA to grow for more reasons than you’re probably interested in reading - LOL!
So generally what you want to do is to take a cup of leaves packed as tight as you can and put this into a blender, food processor, etc. with enough water and you want to turn this into a paste. Get it as smooth as possible. You can see why rosemary leaves are more of a challenge than say peppermint but it’s worth the time & effort.
Add the paste to 1 gallon of water and let that soak for no more than 24 hours. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY FERMENTATION!!!
Now strain & drain and you mix this with enough water to make 3 gallons of mint tea. Add the appropriate amount of aloe vera because you definitely want Salicylic acid in this mix as explained in the book I sent you about this hormone.
You can increase the power by taking a cue from Gil Carandang and add 1 tablespoon of fresh grated ginger for each 1 gallon of tea. These mint teas have proven to be as effective as neem oil - seriously. I cannot stress the need for aloe vera enough because it is at the core of a plant’s Systemic Acquired Resistance (SAR) functions and processes.
That’s it!
“Ain’t exactly rocket science” - something I read online - LOL!
ClackamasCoots
P.S. - next time you happen to be in a hydro store wander over to where the pesticides and fungicides are displayed and start reading the labels. And understand that in the fertilizer business the phrase ‘inert ingredients’ means water. Tap water. Period.
So what active ingredients are they using? Rosemary oil, cinnamon oil (a HUGE source of Linalool), et al. Pretty much a joke when you look at the actual amount of ‘active ingredients’ which is almost always below 2% - nice guys indeed!!
preventative fungus gnat top dress/soil ammendment
mix up equal parts of kelp meal, neem cake, crab meal and top dress below mulch and then cover with worm castings. repeat every so often I guess. its working well so far for me. this works maybe best with the same mix in your soil in addition to the top dress
copy of a post where seafOur compiled a bunch of good coot posts re: teas and foliars (pest control and otherwise)
"
Quote:
Foliar sprays for pest control:
Week 1,3,5 et al. until early flower:
Finely chop 1 onion and 2 medium cloves of garlic. Put ingredients into a blender with 2 cups of water and blend on high. Strain out pulp. Pour liquid into spray bottle. Spray a fine mist on plants, making sure to coat both tops and bottoms of leaves.
Week 2,4,6 et al. until early flower:
Mix of 1 gram AgSil 16H with 1 ounce Neem Oil to emulsify the oil. Then mix this emulsified oil with one gallon final volume clean water. Spray every other week covering all plant surfaces (top and bottom of leaves NOT BUDS) until it runs off.
When you spray the plants, and make sure you get the undersides of the leaves(that's where they lay eggs). Do not spray buds unless very early flower. You'll want to do this when the lights are about to go off (or else the leaves will get burned).
Id guess thats from coot... I got many pages of random quotes saved on my desktop
Quote:
Pesticide Sprays
Quote: So while you're at Whole Foods pick-up Cilantro (organic ONLY) and when you get home toss the entire bunch (sans the tie around the middle) into a food processor with enough water to make a slurry or puree.
Add this to 1 gallon of clear water and let it sit for 36 - 48 hours. No more than this.
Add 1 cup of strained Cilantro tea to 15 cups of water = 1 gallon. Allow for 1/4 cup of Aloe vera juice and use 1 tsp. of Pro-TeKt.
Wait until the it's almost "light's out" and spray the top of the soil, every branch, every leaf from top to bottom. You want the plant to look like you haven't watered in several days and it's drooping big time.
Leave the ventilation system going and by morning you won't have anything hopping, flying, whatever in your chamber. Follow this up every 4 days until you're completed 4 applications.
Done. Finis. Ovah.
This is not a pesticide in the usual definition and without a long explanation you might need to trust me on this one - I apply this and other 'Mint' teas to hydrate the soil every couple of weeks.
"Bio Stimulants"
If you're concerned then pick-up a couple of throw-away plants at Home Depot - Marigolds are a good one. Water this plant with your Cilantro mix and see for yourself.
HTH
CC
Quote:
Preventative Spray...1-2x per week
Quote: 4 tsp. of organic neem oil
2 tsp. of Pro-TeKt
I mix this in a shot glass until it's completely emulsified.
I add this to 1 gallon of tepid water - you want around 70F and stir or shake this until it's completely dispersed and then I add 1/4 cup of aloe vera extract and shake again as much as possible to activate the foaming action of the aloe vera extract's Saponins.
I spray the plant until the leaves hang like they need to be watered. Top and bottom of the leaves, all the branches and the top of the soil.
HTH
CC
Quote:
Coot- Yarrow Tea
Cut flowers and remove as much of the stem as possible. Take 4 cups of loose flowers and add that to 1gal of water. Let stand for 2 days and strain. Mix 2 cups yarrow tea w/ 14 cups water = 1gal. Super safe drench or foliar. Do not let ferment.
Coot- Quick Natural Tea
Take a couple of cups of chopped/diced/ pureed whatever of dandelions, stinging nettles, comfrey- and add to 5 gals of water. Let sit no longer than 3 days. Drench and foliar. Add aloe and protekt. Stinging nettles used this way is a powerful pesticide and fungicide. If looking for N, allow nettles to ferment 3-4 weeks.
Barley tea- Coot
Take 1/4 cup barley seed (not pearled) sprout like you would alfalfa,mung bean etc. Drain and rinse after 24 hrs. Once sprouted add to 1 gal water and let sit 3-4 days. Strain and mix 2 cups 'tea' to 14 cups water = 1 gal. Foliar or water into soil. Works well w/ alfalfa,wheat,oat etc. Think "enzymes".
Neo420 - Willow Tea
1. Collect handfull of willow branch twigs, preferably the tips of branches where the highest levels of IBA and SA are found. No dead branches.
2.Remove all leaves, and cut twigs short. Boil a gallon of water.
3. Put twigs into 1 gal jar, pour in water, seal jar. You now have willow tea. Use undiluted.
Coot- Spanish Thyme- Mint family recipe
Take 1 cup of leaves. Make a puree in a blender. Add enough water to make 1 gallon. Let sit 48 hrs in a warm place. After 48hrs, strain and you now have pesticide concentrate. 1 cup concentrate to 15 cups water. Add protekt and aloe.
Comfrey Pesticide and Fungicide- Coot
Take fresh comfrey leaves, puree or grind to a pulp and add 1 quart of this to 5 gals of water, let sit a couple of hours, strain and dilute w/ 2x water so you now have 15 gallons.
Coot- Pure Neem Oil
Coot uses 1tbs per gal water. Emulsify w/ 1tsp Protekt and add to tepid water. Use 1/4 cup aloe vera as a surfactant."
Rat control
Mix 1 cup cayenne pepper w/ 1 cup DE and add enough water to make a paste. Take latex gloves and cake the stem w/ it.
Quote:
The basic method of fermentation is simple enough, which is not to say anything goes. First you need a container made of a nonreactive material. A 50-gallon plastic garbage can works fine. You need to cover your container during fermentation, but not tightly, or it might explode! Either punch some holes in your garbage can lid or cover the can with a piece of burlap or other cloth. While you can use smaller containers, 50 gallons is an optimal homeowner-scale size that is big enough to help moderate temperature extremes during fermentation.An unheated garage or outbuilding is a good place to conduct the fermentation, the speed of which is temperature dependent. The higher the temperature--up to a point--the faster the fermentation.
The water you use is very important. The ideal source of water is rain, being free of calcareous minerals or additives such as chlorine which can retard or stop fermentation. If you must use hard well water, add a bit of vinegar to it to lower the pH. City water should be allowed to stand several days to allow the chlorine to evaporate before you use it for your extracts.
The duration of fermentation can range from a few days to a couple of weeks. When the mixture stops bubbling when you stir or otherwise move the contents, fermentation is complete. Check your brew daily.
It is imperative that you filter your extract. Doing so stops the fermentation from going too far, and also prevents globs of stuff from plugging up your sprayer or watering can when you apply the brew. Use a very fine strainer lined with cheesecloth, an old clean teeshirt, anything short of a coffee filter or other filter paper, which filters out too much.
Store your extract in stainless steel or plastic containers in a cool place, around 40-50 degrees F being ideal. French folks like to use 5-gallon plastic wine containers, appropriately enough. While a wine cellar is also an excellent place to store your extracts, make sure to label carefully!
Once you have your made your extract or infusion, you of course need to apply it. Most often, you spray it on, just as you would a conventional pesticide or foliar fertilizer, taking care to cover the undersides of leaves. But some remedies are applied as a soil drench. This is best accomplished with a good old-fashioned watering can.
Okay, now that you know the basics, here is the roster of beneficial plants and how to use them.
Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) Perennial plant with silvery, aromatic foliage.
Action. Repellent, especially against cabbage butterflies and codling moth on apples during period of egg-laying. Fungicidal against rust on currants.
Fermented extract (2 lbs. of fresh plant material to 2.5 gallons water) Undiluted for rust on currants. Undiluted sprayed on soil to repel slugs. Diluted to 10% against codling moth and cabbage worm. Note: Do not throw detritus of fermentation on compost, as it will slow its breakdown.
Fernleaf yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Perennial plant with ferny, silvery, aromatic foliage and white flowers.
Active ingredients: pro-azulene, a volatile oil; isovalerianic and salicylic acids (salicylic acid is aspirin, which is why a tea of this plant reduces pain and fever in humans.)
Action. Promotes compost breakdown; potentiates fungicides.
Cold maceration. 1 oz. of dried flowers in 1 quart of water; macerate 24 hours. Add to fungicide treatment, such as horsetail or tansy.
Garlic (Allium sativum)
Needs no explanation, except to say that garlic is perennial if left in place.
Active ingredients. Sulfur-containing compounds.
Action. Insecticide and fungicide.
Preparation. In decoction: chop 4 oz. peeled cloves and add to 1 quart water. Bring to boil, cover and remove from heat, infuse for one hour. Strain and use without diluting. Used as a soil drench, excellent to prevent damping off of seedlings. In oil maceration: Place 4 oz. of peeled cloves and 2 T. linseed oil in a mixer or blender and pulverize. Filter, washing the filtrate (and mixing in) 1 qt. rainwater. Store one week before using. Adding a bit of soap as a surfactant before spraying is useful. Effective against aphids and mites.
Note: This is a great use for spare garlic at the end of the winter storage season, which is beginning to sprout and taste unpalatable.
Cocklebur (Arctium lappa). Infamous biennial weed.
Active ingredients. Tanins, mucilage, resins, sulfate and potassium phosphate, calcium, and magnesium.
Action. Fungicide effective against mildew on potatoes.
Preparation. Use the whole plant before flowering. The root has the most active ingredients. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. fresh plant to 2.5 gal. of water. Attention: strong odor! Filter and dilute to 5% before spraying on potato foliage. Also, just pick the leaves and use them as a mulch on your potatoes.
Nasturtium (Trapaeolum majus). Flowering annual.
Active ingredients. Sulfur-containing compounds.
Action. Fungicidal against canker on tree fruits. Insectifuge against white fly (repellent).
Preparation. In infusion, 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 5 quarts of water. Boil water, add leaves, infuse like tea one hour. Use undiluted on fruit trees. Dilute to 30% to spray tomatoes against mildew.
Comfreys (Symphytum officinalis, S. x uplandicum). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Allantoin, which stimulates cell multiplication. This is why allantoin is such an excellent ingredient for skin creams, especially for chapped skin.
Action.Comfrey is a powerful stimulator of all cell multiplication, e.g. growth. It stimulates microbial growth in the soil, and in compost, thus acting as an 'activator'. Comfrey stimulates seedling development as well as foliar growth.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. of fresh leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. As a soil drench, dilute to 20%; as a foliar fertilizer and seedling fertilizer, dilute to 5%.
Spurge (Euphorbia lathyris). Hardy perennial.
Active ingredient. Euphorbone.
Action. Repels moles and voles, but must be prepared and sprayed to be effective. Having the plant on your property does not suffice.
Preparation. In fermented extract, harvest the stems and leaves; the terminals have the most active ingredient, from April to October. Caution! The milky sap of this plant causes skin irritations! Wear long-cuffed gloves to protect your hands and arms. Use 2 lbs. fresh plant material per 2.5 gals. of water. Spray around cultivated areas.
Bracken fern and male fern. (Pteridium aquilinum, Dryopteris felix-mas). Perennial plant.
Action. Insecticide and insectifuge.
Active ingredients. Gallic and acetic acids; tannin; cyanogenic heterosides; potassium; aldehydes transformed to methaldehydes after fermentation.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs of fresh leaves to 2.5 gal. of water. May be fermented simultaneously with nettle or horsetail. Dilute to 10% before spraying. Effective against some pests of potato and grape, very effective against wooly aphid. Note: bracken fern is indigenous in many areas, especially in well-drained acid soils, and is often considered invasive, as it is rhizomatous.
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Over 250 different compounds!
Action. Insectifuge, insecticide.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material per 2.5 gal. of water, dilute to 10% before using. For dried material, use 7 oz.
In simple infusion, use 4 oz. of fresh plant material in 1 qt. of water, or 2/3 oz. of dried plant material per quart.
Note: If you live in a cool climate, your lavender will be less potent than that grown in a hot climate. Double the quantities or use dried plant material from a southern source.
English Ivy (Hedera helix). Perennial vine.
Active ingredient. Heteroside which is liberated during fermentation.
Action. Insectifuge and insecticide against white fly, spider mites, and aphids.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. chopped leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. In observing fermentation, don't confuse the foam caused by the saponins in the leaves with the gas bubbles of fermentation. Dilute to 5% before spraying. Beekeepers in the 18th century rubbed their hands with ivy to protect themselves from bee stings. Caution! The extract is toxic and must be kept out of the reach of children. Also, many people are allergic to the sap of ivy and/or to the fine hairs on the reverse of the leaves. Wear gloves to protect yourself.
Lemon balm. (Melissa officinalis). Perennial aromatic culinary and medicinal herb.
Active ingredient. Many aromatic compounds.
Action. Insectifuge against aphids, mosquitos, white fly, and ants.
Preparation. In infusion, 2 oz. of fresh plant in 1 qt. of water. Allow to cool, filter, and spray without diluting. Note: Do not use on seedling beds as it can prevent germination of seedlings.
Peppermint. (Mentha piperita) Perennial aromatic culinary and medicinal herb.
Active ingredients. Many aromatic compounds.
Action. Insectifuge and insecticide against aphids and spider mites.
Preparation. In infusion, 4 oz. of fresh plant in 1 qt. of water. Allow to cool, filter, and spray undiluted.
In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant to 2.5 gal. of water. Ferments extremely fast. Dilute to 10% before using. Note: Impedes germination so don't use on seedling beds.
Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica). Perennial weed.
Active ingredients. A cocktail of ingredients still poorly analyzed but including formic acid, as well as iron, nitrogen, and many trace minerals. Acts as an immunostimulant for plants.
Action. Strongly stimulant to both microbial and plant growth, thus a compost activator as well as fertiliser. Insectifuge and sometimes insecticide against aphids, mites, and other pests.
Preparation. Use of the whole plant before flowering. Studies have shown that including the roots adds a fungicidal action to the extract. In fermented extract (the famous purin d'ortie), 2 lbs. of fresh plant in 2.5 gal. of water, fermented for a few days only. Dilute to 20% before using as soil drench or foliar feed. Use full strength as a natural herbicide (it kills with 'fertilizer burn' because it is so rich). Soak bareroot plants for 30 minutes in the pure extract or for 12 hours in a 20% dilution before planting to stimulate rapid establishment and vigor.
The nettle reigns supreme among plants for fermentation in France. The fermented extract is sold commercially in garden centers, and clubs and associations of nettle fanatics exist throughout France. Needless to say perhaps, but wear gloves when handling nettles. It's not for nothing they're called 'stinging.'
Horsetail. (Equisetum arvense). Perennial plant and medicinal herb.
Active ingredients. Diverse alkaloids, nicotinic acid, silica.
Action. Insectifuge, preventive fungicide, plant tonic and growth stimulant.
Preparation. In decoction, boil 1 lb. of fresh plant with 5 qts. of water for 1 hour, allow to infuse 12 hours, filter and dilute to 20%.
In fermented extract, 1/2 lb. of dried plant in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 5% before using.
Horsetail, along with nettle and fern, form the Big Three among medicinal plants for plants, according to the French. I remember my Swiss grandmother gathering horsetail and drying it in pillowcases for use in astringent poultices.
Pyrethrum (Tanacetum cinerariifolium). Perennial.
Active ingredient. Pyrethrins.
Action. Insecticide against aphids, cabbage fly, whitefly, carrot fly, and others. Does not hurt bees.
Preparation. Harvest the flowers when open, and dry them. In infusion, use 1 oz. in 2 qts. of water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, use 3 oz. in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 20%. Spray after sundown or in very early morning.
Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana)
Perennial culinary herb.
Active ingredients. Sulfuric heteroside, glucosinolate.
Action. Fungicide against blackspot on cherries.
Preparation. In infusion, 12 oz. of fresh plant material (leaves and roots chopped) in 2 1/2 gal. of water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, 4 oz. of chopped root in 2.5 gal. of water. Use full strength on seedlings for damping off.
Rhubarb (Rheum rhaponticum).
Perennial potager plant.
Active ingredients. Oxalic acid as salt of calcium.
Action. Insectifuge against aphids, caterpillars, and other larvae. Repulsive to herbivores.
Preparation. In cold maceration, use 1 lb. of chopped leaves in 3 quarts of water; allow to soak 24 hours before filtering. Use full strength. This is a great way to use rhubarb leaves as you eat the stalks.
Rue (Ruta graveolens). Perennial herb.
Active ingredients. Tannins, heterosides, malic acid, glucosides, and others.
Action. Insecticide and repulsive.
Preparation. Harvest fresh leaves and stems before flowering. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water fermented for 10 days. Dilute to 20%. Repels mice, chipmunks, and other chewers. Spray against aphids.
Dockweed (Rumex obtusifolius). Perennial weed.
Active ingredients. Have not been studied.
Action. Fungicide against canker on apples and pears.
Preparation. In infusion, 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 5 qts. boiling water. Filter when cool, spray full strength on cankers. Treat young trees preventatively. Spring is best time.
Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Saponins.
Action. Insecticide, insectifuge.
Preparation. In infusion, 4 oz. fresh material in 1 qt. boiling water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 10% before using.
Sage. (Salvia officinalis). Perennial herb.
Active ingredients. Monoterpenones, including thujone, camphor, and others, aldehydes, coumarin.
Action. Insectifuge, fungicide.
Preparation. In infusion for insectifuge, 4 oz. of fresh plant material in 1 qt. boiling water. Filter when cool and use full strength. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh leaves and terminals in 2.5 gal. of water, diluted to 10%, against mildew on potatoes.
Common Elderberry (Sambucus nigra). Large shrub to small tree.
Active ingredients. Sambucine.Action. Powerful repellant; fungicide.
Preparation. In decoction, 2 lbs. of leaves soaked for 24 hours in 2.5 gal. of water, then boiled for 30 minutes. Spray undiluted against aphids, beetles, caterpillars. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. Use undiluted against shelf fungus infections on trees.
Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare). Perennial plant (invasive in sandy soils).
Active ingredients. Not studied.
Action. Insectifuge, insecticide, fungicide against rust and mildew.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water. Use nondiluted against cabbage fly. In infusion, 1 oz. of flowers in 1 qt. of boiling water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted against aphids, mildew, and rust. Caution: don't throw residues on compost as tansy inhibits its breakdown.
thats about all I got, and I know some are teas and not foliars, but I didn't wanna edit...
"
ClackamasCoots's Effective Spider Mite and Pest Spray without Neem
May 15 2014, 1 Comment
Looking for a pest spray that actually works?
Mint Family Plants for Pest Spray
Okay this is Awesome! I have had a few customers write in asking for tips on Home Made Pest Sprays that didn't require the use of Neem. Main reason being that as a grower, you might find yourself in a battle against pests and not have any Neem oil on hand. That being said I fired off an email to ClackamasCoots who is unbelievably helpful and he wrote back with this detailed email that was to good to summarize... here is the email conversation that we had this morning.
All Credit to ClackamasCoots:
Jeremy
Yes, you can use cilantro as well as other members of the Mint family (Lamiaceae or Labiatae) and the link has a list you can review.
The reason that Mint plants are as effective can be explained at this list for both culinary Lavender and medicinal Lavender - link
Look at the compounds and many of these are used commercially in their synthetic forms. Linalool is a good example, the synthetic form is what the Orkin Man sprays around homes, It’s these terpenes, terpenoids and ketones that provide pesticide and fungicide benefits.
So are some better than others? You bet! Fortunately the best ones are the easiest to grow - specifically peppermint, spearmint, lemon balm (!!!), thyme (add Borneol to your list with this one), sage, rosemary (!!!!) and of course cilantro. The problem with cilantro is that it’s a PITA to grow for more reasons than you’re probably interested in reading - LOL!
So generally what you want to do is to take a cup of leaves packed as tight as you can and put this into a blender, food processor, etc. with enough water and you want to turn this into a paste. Get it as smooth as possible. You can see why rosemary leaves are more of a challenge than say peppermint but it’s worth the time & effort.
Add the paste to 1 gallon of water and let that soak for no more than 24 hours. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY FERMENTATION!!!
Now strain & drain and you mix this with enough water to make 3 gallons of mint tea. Add the appropriate amount of aloe vera because you definitely want Salicylic acid in this mix as explained in the book I sent you about this hormone.
You can increase the power by taking a cue from Gil Carandang and add 1 tablespoon of fresh grated ginger for each 1 gallon of tea. These mint teas have proven to be as effective as neem oil - seriously. I cannot stress the need for aloe vera enough because it is at the core of a plant’s Systemic Acquired Resistance (SAR) functions and processes.
That’s it!
“Ain’t exactly rocket science” - something I read online - LOL!
ClackamasCoots
P.S. - next time you happen to be in a hydro store wander over to where the pesticides and fungicides are displayed and start reading the labels. And understand that in the fertilizer business the phrase ‘inert ingredients’ means water. Tap water. Period.
So what active ingredients are they using? Rosemary oil, cinnamon oil (a HUGE source of Linalool), et al. Pretty much a joke when you look at the actual amount of ‘active ingredients’ which is almost always below 2% - nice guys indeed!!
preventative fungus gnat top dress/soil ammendment
mix up equal parts of kelp meal, neem cake, crab meal and top dress below mulch and then cover with worm castings. repeat every so often I guess. its working well so far for me. this works maybe best with the same mix in your soil in addition to the top dress
copy of a post where seafOur compiled a bunch of good coot posts re: teas and foliars (pest control and otherwise)
"
Quote:
Foliar sprays for pest control:
Week 1,3,5 et al. until early flower:
Finely chop 1 onion and 2 medium cloves of garlic. Put ingredients into a blender with 2 cups of water and blend on high. Strain out pulp. Pour liquid into spray bottle. Spray a fine mist on plants, making sure to coat both tops and bottoms of leaves.
Week 2,4,6 et al. until early flower:
Mix of 1 gram AgSil 16H with 1 ounce Neem Oil to emulsify the oil. Then mix this emulsified oil with one gallon final volume clean water. Spray every other week covering all plant surfaces (top and bottom of leaves NOT BUDS) until it runs off.
When you spray the plants, and make sure you get the undersides of the leaves(that's where they lay eggs). Do not spray buds unless very early flower. You'll want to do this when the lights are about to go off (or else the leaves will get burned).
Id guess thats from coot... I got many pages of random quotes saved on my desktop
Quote:
Pesticide Sprays
Quote: So while you're at Whole Foods pick-up Cilantro (organic ONLY) and when you get home toss the entire bunch (sans the tie around the middle) into a food processor with enough water to make a slurry or puree.
Add this to 1 gallon of clear water and let it sit for 36 - 48 hours. No more than this.
Add 1 cup of strained Cilantro tea to 15 cups of water = 1 gallon. Allow for 1/4 cup of Aloe vera juice and use 1 tsp. of Pro-TeKt.
Wait until the it's almost "light's out" and spray the top of the soil, every branch, every leaf from top to bottom. You want the plant to look like you haven't watered in several days and it's drooping big time.
Leave the ventilation system going and by morning you won't have anything hopping, flying, whatever in your chamber. Follow this up every 4 days until you're completed 4 applications.
Done. Finis. Ovah.
This is not a pesticide in the usual definition and without a long explanation you might need to trust me on this one - I apply this and other 'Mint' teas to hydrate the soil every couple of weeks.
"Bio Stimulants"
If you're concerned then pick-up a couple of throw-away plants at Home Depot - Marigolds are a good one. Water this plant with your Cilantro mix and see for yourself.
HTH
CC
Quote:
Preventative Spray...1-2x per week
Quote: 4 tsp. of organic neem oil
2 tsp. of Pro-TeKt
I mix this in a shot glass until it's completely emulsified.
I add this to 1 gallon of tepid water - you want around 70F and stir or shake this until it's completely dispersed and then I add 1/4 cup of aloe vera extract and shake again as much as possible to activate the foaming action of the aloe vera extract's Saponins.
I spray the plant until the leaves hang like they need to be watered. Top and bottom of the leaves, all the branches and the top of the soil.
HTH
CC
Quote:
Coot- Yarrow Tea
Cut flowers and remove as much of the stem as possible. Take 4 cups of loose flowers and add that to 1gal of water. Let stand for 2 days and strain. Mix 2 cups yarrow tea w/ 14 cups water = 1gal. Super safe drench or foliar. Do not let ferment.
Coot- Quick Natural Tea
Take a couple of cups of chopped/diced/ pureed whatever of dandelions, stinging nettles, comfrey- and add to 5 gals of water. Let sit no longer than 3 days. Drench and foliar. Add aloe and protekt. Stinging nettles used this way is a powerful pesticide and fungicide. If looking for N, allow nettles to ferment 3-4 weeks.
Barley tea- Coot
Take 1/4 cup barley seed (not pearled) sprout like you would alfalfa,mung bean etc. Drain and rinse after 24 hrs. Once sprouted add to 1 gal water and let sit 3-4 days. Strain and mix 2 cups 'tea' to 14 cups water = 1 gal. Foliar or water into soil. Works well w/ alfalfa,wheat,oat etc. Think "enzymes".
Neo420 - Willow Tea
1. Collect handfull of willow branch twigs, preferably the tips of branches where the highest levels of IBA and SA are found. No dead branches.
2.Remove all leaves, and cut twigs short. Boil a gallon of water.
3. Put twigs into 1 gal jar, pour in water, seal jar. You now have willow tea. Use undiluted.
Coot- Spanish Thyme- Mint family recipe
Take 1 cup of leaves. Make a puree in a blender. Add enough water to make 1 gallon. Let sit 48 hrs in a warm place. After 48hrs, strain and you now have pesticide concentrate. 1 cup concentrate to 15 cups water. Add protekt and aloe.
Comfrey Pesticide and Fungicide- Coot
Take fresh comfrey leaves, puree or grind to a pulp and add 1 quart of this to 5 gals of water, let sit a couple of hours, strain and dilute w/ 2x water so you now have 15 gallons.
Coot- Pure Neem Oil
Coot uses 1tbs per gal water. Emulsify w/ 1tsp Protekt and add to tepid water. Use 1/4 cup aloe vera as a surfactant."
Rat control
Mix 1 cup cayenne pepper w/ 1 cup DE and add enough water to make a paste. Take latex gloves and cake the stem w/ it.
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The basic method of fermentation is simple enough, which is not to say anything goes. First you need a container made of a nonreactive material. A 50-gallon plastic garbage can works fine. You need to cover your container during fermentation, but not tightly, or it might explode! Either punch some holes in your garbage can lid or cover the can with a piece of burlap or other cloth. While you can use smaller containers, 50 gallons is an optimal homeowner-scale size that is big enough to help moderate temperature extremes during fermentation.An unheated garage or outbuilding is a good place to conduct the fermentation, the speed of which is temperature dependent. The higher the temperature--up to a point--the faster the fermentation.
The water you use is very important. The ideal source of water is rain, being free of calcareous minerals or additives such as chlorine which can retard or stop fermentation. If you must use hard well water, add a bit of vinegar to it to lower the pH. City water should be allowed to stand several days to allow the chlorine to evaporate before you use it for your extracts.
The duration of fermentation can range from a few days to a couple of weeks. When the mixture stops bubbling when you stir or otherwise move the contents, fermentation is complete. Check your brew daily.
It is imperative that you filter your extract. Doing so stops the fermentation from going too far, and also prevents globs of stuff from plugging up your sprayer or watering can when you apply the brew. Use a very fine strainer lined with cheesecloth, an old clean teeshirt, anything short of a coffee filter or other filter paper, which filters out too much.
Store your extract in stainless steel or plastic containers in a cool place, around 40-50 degrees F being ideal. French folks like to use 5-gallon plastic wine containers, appropriately enough. While a wine cellar is also an excellent place to store your extracts, make sure to label carefully!
Once you have your made your extract or infusion, you of course need to apply it. Most often, you spray it on, just as you would a conventional pesticide or foliar fertilizer, taking care to cover the undersides of leaves. But some remedies are applied as a soil drench. This is best accomplished with a good old-fashioned watering can.
Okay, now that you know the basics, here is the roster of beneficial plants and how to use them.
Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) Perennial plant with silvery, aromatic foliage.
Action. Repellent, especially against cabbage butterflies and codling moth on apples during period of egg-laying. Fungicidal against rust on currants.
Fermented extract (2 lbs. of fresh plant material to 2.5 gallons water) Undiluted for rust on currants. Undiluted sprayed on soil to repel slugs. Diluted to 10% against codling moth and cabbage worm. Note: Do not throw detritus of fermentation on compost, as it will slow its breakdown.
Fernleaf yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Perennial plant with ferny, silvery, aromatic foliage and white flowers.
Active ingredients: pro-azulene, a volatile oil; isovalerianic and salicylic acids (salicylic acid is aspirin, which is why a tea of this plant reduces pain and fever in humans.)
Action. Promotes compost breakdown; potentiates fungicides.
Cold maceration. 1 oz. of dried flowers in 1 quart of water; macerate 24 hours. Add to fungicide treatment, such as horsetail or tansy.
Garlic (Allium sativum)
Needs no explanation, except to say that garlic is perennial if left in place.
Active ingredients. Sulfur-containing compounds.
Action. Insecticide and fungicide.
Preparation. In decoction: chop 4 oz. peeled cloves and add to 1 quart water. Bring to boil, cover and remove from heat, infuse for one hour. Strain and use without diluting. Used as a soil drench, excellent to prevent damping off of seedlings. In oil maceration: Place 4 oz. of peeled cloves and 2 T. linseed oil in a mixer or blender and pulverize. Filter, washing the filtrate (and mixing in) 1 qt. rainwater. Store one week before using. Adding a bit of soap as a surfactant before spraying is useful. Effective against aphids and mites.
Note: This is a great use for spare garlic at the end of the winter storage season, which is beginning to sprout and taste unpalatable.
Cocklebur (Arctium lappa). Infamous biennial weed.
Active ingredients. Tanins, mucilage, resins, sulfate and potassium phosphate, calcium, and magnesium.
Action. Fungicide effective against mildew on potatoes.
Preparation. Use the whole plant before flowering. The root has the most active ingredients. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. fresh plant to 2.5 gal. of water. Attention: strong odor! Filter and dilute to 5% before spraying on potato foliage. Also, just pick the leaves and use them as a mulch on your potatoes.
Nasturtium (Trapaeolum majus). Flowering annual.
Active ingredients. Sulfur-containing compounds.
Action. Fungicidal against canker on tree fruits. Insectifuge against white fly (repellent).
Preparation. In infusion, 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 5 quarts of water. Boil water, add leaves, infuse like tea one hour. Use undiluted on fruit trees. Dilute to 30% to spray tomatoes against mildew.
Comfreys (Symphytum officinalis, S. x uplandicum). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Allantoin, which stimulates cell multiplication. This is why allantoin is such an excellent ingredient for skin creams, especially for chapped skin.
Action.Comfrey is a powerful stimulator of all cell multiplication, e.g. growth. It stimulates microbial growth in the soil, and in compost, thus acting as an 'activator'. Comfrey stimulates seedling development as well as foliar growth.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. of fresh leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. As a soil drench, dilute to 20%; as a foliar fertilizer and seedling fertilizer, dilute to 5%.
Spurge (Euphorbia lathyris). Hardy perennial.
Active ingredient. Euphorbone.
Action. Repels moles and voles, but must be prepared and sprayed to be effective. Having the plant on your property does not suffice.
Preparation. In fermented extract, harvest the stems and leaves; the terminals have the most active ingredient, from April to October. Caution! The milky sap of this plant causes skin irritations! Wear long-cuffed gloves to protect your hands and arms. Use 2 lbs. fresh plant material per 2.5 gals. of water. Spray around cultivated areas.
Bracken fern and male fern. (Pteridium aquilinum, Dryopteris felix-mas). Perennial plant.
Action. Insecticide and insectifuge.
Active ingredients. Gallic and acetic acids; tannin; cyanogenic heterosides; potassium; aldehydes transformed to methaldehydes after fermentation.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs of fresh leaves to 2.5 gal. of water. May be fermented simultaneously with nettle or horsetail. Dilute to 10% before spraying. Effective against some pests of potato and grape, very effective against wooly aphid. Note: bracken fern is indigenous in many areas, especially in well-drained acid soils, and is often considered invasive, as it is rhizomatous.
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Over 250 different compounds!
Action. Insectifuge, insecticide.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material per 2.5 gal. of water, dilute to 10% before using. For dried material, use 7 oz.
In simple infusion, use 4 oz. of fresh plant material in 1 qt. of water, or 2/3 oz. of dried plant material per quart.
Note: If you live in a cool climate, your lavender will be less potent than that grown in a hot climate. Double the quantities or use dried plant material from a southern source.
English Ivy (Hedera helix). Perennial vine.
Active ingredient. Heteroside which is liberated during fermentation.
Action. Insectifuge and insecticide against white fly, spider mites, and aphids.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. chopped leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. In observing fermentation, don't confuse the foam caused by the saponins in the leaves with the gas bubbles of fermentation. Dilute to 5% before spraying. Beekeepers in the 18th century rubbed their hands with ivy to protect themselves from bee stings. Caution! The extract is toxic and must be kept out of the reach of children. Also, many people are allergic to the sap of ivy and/or to the fine hairs on the reverse of the leaves. Wear gloves to protect yourself.
Lemon balm. (Melissa officinalis). Perennial aromatic culinary and medicinal herb.
Active ingredient. Many aromatic compounds.
Action. Insectifuge against aphids, mosquitos, white fly, and ants.
Preparation. In infusion, 2 oz. of fresh plant in 1 qt. of water. Allow to cool, filter, and spray without diluting. Note: Do not use on seedling beds as it can prevent germination of seedlings.
Peppermint. (Mentha piperita) Perennial aromatic culinary and medicinal herb.
Active ingredients. Many aromatic compounds.
Action. Insectifuge and insecticide against aphids and spider mites.
Preparation. In infusion, 4 oz. of fresh plant in 1 qt. of water. Allow to cool, filter, and spray undiluted.
In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant to 2.5 gal. of water. Ferments extremely fast. Dilute to 10% before using. Note: Impedes germination so don't use on seedling beds.
Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica). Perennial weed.
Active ingredients. A cocktail of ingredients still poorly analyzed but including formic acid, as well as iron, nitrogen, and many trace minerals. Acts as an immunostimulant for plants.
Action. Strongly stimulant to both microbial and plant growth, thus a compost activator as well as fertiliser. Insectifuge and sometimes insecticide against aphids, mites, and other pests.
Preparation. Use of the whole plant before flowering. Studies have shown that including the roots adds a fungicidal action to the extract. In fermented extract (the famous purin d'ortie), 2 lbs. of fresh plant in 2.5 gal. of water, fermented for a few days only. Dilute to 20% before using as soil drench or foliar feed. Use full strength as a natural herbicide (it kills with 'fertilizer burn' because it is so rich). Soak bareroot plants for 30 minutes in the pure extract or for 12 hours in a 20% dilution before planting to stimulate rapid establishment and vigor.
The nettle reigns supreme among plants for fermentation in France. The fermented extract is sold commercially in garden centers, and clubs and associations of nettle fanatics exist throughout France. Needless to say perhaps, but wear gloves when handling nettles. It's not for nothing they're called 'stinging.'
Horsetail. (Equisetum arvense). Perennial plant and medicinal herb.
Active ingredients. Diverse alkaloids, nicotinic acid, silica.
Action. Insectifuge, preventive fungicide, plant tonic and growth stimulant.
Preparation. In decoction, boil 1 lb. of fresh plant with 5 qts. of water for 1 hour, allow to infuse 12 hours, filter and dilute to 20%.
In fermented extract, 1/2 lb. of dried plant in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 5% before using.
Horsetail, along with nettle and fern, form the Big Three among medicinal plants for plants, according to the French. I remember my Swiss grandmother gathering horsetail and drying it in pillowcases for use in astringent poultices.
Pyrethrum (Tanacetum cinerariifolium). Perennial.
Active ingredient. Pyrethrins.
Action. Insecticide against aphids, cabbage fly, whitefly, carrot fly, and others. Does not hurt bees.
Preparation. Harvest the flowers when open, and dry them. In infusion, use 1 oz. in 2 qts. of water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, use 3 oz. in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 20%. Spray after sundown or in very early morning.
Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana)
Perennial culinary herb.
Active ingredients. Sulfuric heteroside, glucosinolate.
Action. Fungicide against blackspot on cherries.
Preparation. In infusion, 12 oz. of fresh plant material (leaves and roots chopped) in 2 1/2 gal. of water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, 4 oz. of chopped root in 2.5 gal. of water. Use full strength on seedlings for damping off.
Rhubarb (Rheum rhaponticum).
Perennial potager plant.
Active ingredients. Oxalic acid as salt of calcium.
Action. Insectifuge against aphids, caterpillars, and other larvae. Repulsive to herbivores.
Preparation. In cold maceration, use 1 lb. of chopped leaves in 3 quarts of water; allow to soak 24 hours before filtering. Use full strength. This is a great way to use rhubarb leaves as you eat the stalks.
Rue (Ruta graveolens). Perennial herb.
Active ingredients. Tannins, heterosides, malic acid, glucosides, and others.
Action. Insecticide and repulsive.
Preparation. Harvest fresh leaves and stems before flowering. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water fermented for 10 days. Dilute to 20%. Repels mice, chipmunks, and other chewers. Spray against aphids.
Dockweed (Rumex obtusifolius). Perennial weed.
Active ingredients. Have not been studied.
Action. Fungicide against canker on apples and pears.
Preparation. In infusion, 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 5 qts. boiling water. Filter when cool, spray full strength on cankers. Treat young trees preventatively. Spring is best time.
Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Saponins.
Action. Insecticide, insectifuge.
Preparation. In infusion, 4 oz. fresh material in 1 qt. boiling water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 10% before using.
Sage. (Salvia officinalis). Perennial herb.
Active ingredients. Monoterpenones, including thujone, camphor, and others, aldehydes, coumarin.
Action. Insectifuge, fungicide.
Preparation. In infusion for insectifuge, 4 oz. of fresh plant material in 1 qt. boiling water. Filter when cool and use full strength. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh leaves and terminals in 2.5 gal. of water, diluted to 10%, against mildew on potatoes.
Common Elderberry (Sambucus nigra). Large shrub to small tree.
Active ingredients. Sambucine.Action. Powerful repellant; fungicide.
Preparation. In decoction, 2 lbs. of leaves soaked for 24 hours in 2.5 gal. of water, then boiled for 30 minutes. Spray undiluted against aphids, beetles, caterpillars. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. Use undiluted against shelf fungus infections on trees.
Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare). Perennial plant (invasive in sandy soils).
Active ingredients. Not studied.
Action. Insectifuge, insecticide, fungicide against rust and mildew.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water. Use nondiluted against cabbage fly. In infusion, 1 oz. of flowers in 1 qt. of boiling water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted against aphids, mildew, and rust. Caution: don't throw residues on compost as tansy inhibits its breakdown.
thats about all I got, and I know some are teas and not foliars, but I didn't wanna edit...
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