Am I in preflower or have I shot past it?

[metcalfr]

Oh... this is Mr. Canuk's doing. We get a lot of folks in here who don't get the results they expected from following this guy. Apparently, if you change one little seemingly insignificant thing about how he does things, multiple problems can result. Now that I understand more about what he is doing, I am even more sure that Mulder's chart shows us why people get in trouble with following this very intensive method.
I certainly wouldn't try to mix methods though... if you have gone with Canuk as you built your containers, it is probably best to stay with that method all the way through... that soil mix sort of demands it. His is not organically growing, by cooking nutrients into the soil and allowing the microbes to unlock those nutrients and feed them to the plants, he is using immediately available "organic" (only as compared to synthetic) nutrients to force feed your plants all the way through... the organic feeding cycle with the microbes has nothing to do with anything.
I would stick with the Canuk method for this grow, since you started down this path, but keep The Rev's book handy for next time, when you can do a truly living organic grow, where you don't feed the plants... the microbes do. Where your teas are not to feed the plants, but to supply microbes. Truly organic is a whole new way of growing as compared to what you are trying to do here.

Thanks Emilya for your input. I read a lot of your posts when I first started regarding watering, etc. You are a wealth of knowledge and I appreciate it. I thought a couple of months of research before starting was enough. I guess not lol. Hopefully I haven't caused a death sentence for my girls. I have really been enjoying growing and starting a compost pile.

 

[SmokingWings]

Thanks. Will need to look at the leaves more closely and double check the bug strips and do a little more research. First grow ever.

Some bugs will be large enough to be seen on sticky traps which is what I think you are calling bug strips.

However, Spider Mites are on the borderline. The older ones will be large enough to see with the eye but mites like those in the Russett Mite family are so small that they might not even show up when looking with a loupe or other common magnifying lens or tool. All we see is the damage and change to the leaf and never see the actual insect.

 

[SmokingWings]

Mixed up my soil. 40L 1 0 0, 10L worm castings, 10L perlite, just under 2 cups 2 8 4 and just under 2 cups of 4 4 4. Most of it went into 3 5 gallon fabric pots. All gaia green organic.

You are in good hands and the others should be able to figure out what the problem is and how to solve it before long. It might help some if we knew more about this soil you mixed up.

Tell us what the 40L 1 0 0 stuff is. Either the actual name of it or a photo of the bag or box it came in. Same goes for the 2 8 4 and the 4 4 4. Those look like the N-P-K numbers but if we have a better idea of what the product is it will be helpful. Knowing that helps with figuring out which amendment might be missing or if there is more of something than than there should be.

You mention the Mr. Canuck videos. As @Emilya is saying, we see a lot of people who follow his videos and methods and develop a problem. Often it is as she says that the grower made a minor and seemingly insignificant substitution. Or they forgot to include something. That is why I feel it is important to know what the 40L 1 0 0 stuff is.

As far as I can tell most or all of Mr. Canuck's grows are done with a coco coir mix and not something many of us consider a natural soil. He is also fond of what he is calling his 'supercoco mix'

 

[metcalfr]

You are in good hands and the others should be able to figure out what the problem is and how to solve it before long. It might help some if we knew more about this soil you mixed up.

Tell us what the 40L 1 0 0 stuff is. Either the actual name of it or a photo of the bag or box it came in. Same goes for the 2 8 4 and the 4 4 4. Those look like the N-P-K numbers but if we have a better idea of what the product is it will be helpful. Knowing that helps with figuring out which amendment might be missing or if there is more of something than than there should be.

You mention the Mr. Canuck videos. As @Emilya is saying, we see a lot of people who follow his videos and methods and develop a problem. Often it is as she says that the grower made a minor and seemingly insignificant substitution. Or they forgot to include something. That is why I feel it is important to know what the 40L 1 0 0 stuff is.

As far as I can tell most or all of Mr. Canuck's grows are done with a coco coir mix and not something many of us consider a natural soil. He is also fond of what he is calling his 'supercoco mix'

I used gaia green organic. I am going out to pick up a soil meter today as well.

 

[metcalfr]

I used gaia green organic. I am going out to pick up a soil meter today as well.

This was my base for each pot....

For my beginning soil was 6 Tablespoons of both 2 8 4 and 444 in 4.5 gallons or 20L of 1 0 0 soil with 2.5L perlite 2.5 L wormcastings

 

[metcalfr]

I have another question everyone. I know, shocker..... if I have nutrient lockout will the plants still grow. I feel like there has been noticeable growth since yesterday. Once again I apologize for being a newbie to all of this.

 

[SmokingWings]

I have another question everyone. I know, shocker..... if I have nutrient lockout will the plants still grow. I feel like there has been noticeable growth since yesterday. Once again I apologize for being a newbie to all of this.

Will the plants continue to grow. Usually they will, but often not as well as they should.

My take on the term "nutrient lockout" is that one or more of the nutrients is no longer available for several reasons. I think that Emilya is thinking that the plant cannot take in the available iron in your mix. Looking at the Mulder's Chart she pointed to in her earlier msg it shows that to much Phosphorous (P) will end up locking out (preventing) the iron. Meaning that the plant can not continue to absorb the iron while still being about to use the other nutrients.

 

[metcalfr]

Thanks everyone. I went to my local nursery. The owner has been growing cannabis for years. I missed a critical step and didn't let my soil cook for 20 to 30 days. In another week. I will amend with only 2 T of 444 and 2T of 284 and half a cup of worn castings to each plant and then take it from there. I was going to get a soil meter reader and he told me not to bother wasting my money, as we already have an idea as to the problem. Got to love owners that don't upsell you. So I bought an aloe Vera plant lol. Will continue to post. Thankyou thankyou everyone. This is an incredible community.

 

[JakeDog]

What type of lighting are you using?
Did you say you are using a 120w light at 24x7 and are at 38 days of veg?
Outdoor soil?
This is how I do it for a 4x4 open indoor grow.
Lighting, I use a 400w/600w switchable HID electronic ballast.
Begin seedlings in final pot after germination with a 400w Hortilux MH blue daylight bulb on a 18x6 schedule for 30 days. I then change to a 600w Hotilux Super HPS bulb to start Bloom with a 12x12 cycle.
I also change nutrients from grow to bloom.
I use the Auto Pot system.
Grow medium is Pro Mix HP/CC.
I add about 20% size 4 perlite to the medium with about 1in to the bottom of the containers.
Keep the water Ph between 5.85 and 6.20
My nutrient EC at 1.8
Mantain a proper temp and humidity, good indirect airflow. Have an inline duct fan and filter (for odor control) that runs through an air cooled reflector. I have removed most of the fan leaves leaving the buds and sugar leaves in the final two weeks prior to harvest. Using the last of the nutrient mix in the reservoir and will use Ph'd water for that time.

 

[BAM55448]

I thought a couple of months of research before starting was enough. I guess not lol.

Most of us are still learning. Ain’t nothin to it but to do it. Learning by doing will bring you the farthest. What you are trying to do is rather involved but as long as you get something you save money. Lots of us are still trying to figure this out. (and I bought my Substrate) the longer you do it the better of a feel you get for it, I am finding.

 

[013]

When you talk soils and nutes be sure to include the dash like 1-0-0 and yes it’s much better to list the product name or pic of the label since there are a blue million soil mixes, amendments, nutes and fert products. It’s true some of the pests are big enough to be visible with the naked eye but they are usually very well camouflaged.

However many pests are microscopic and will not be seen without ample magnification. If you are serious about growing then a jewelers loupe $12 or a WiFi usb mini microscope $35ish is a handy tool for viewing pests or checking trichs for ripeness. Mites are freaking tiny and their eggs are about the size of a deuce dropped by a housefly..... The problem with loupes and scopes is you can’t hold them still enough so here’s what we do, snip a fan leaf and lay it on the table, scan both sides but most pests prefer the underside to attach their eggs

anyway hang out here and we will get you all tuned up!

 

[JakeDog]

With the onset of spring/summer season upon us it might be important, especially for the newer grower, is to make certain that you do not work out of doors then enter your grow area wearing the same clothing, shoes etc. It is very easy to introduce unwanted pests that attach to your clothing. If you mow your lawn or work in an outdoor garden. Take a shower, change your clothes and shoes before entering your grow area.
This will help keep your grow area pest free.

 

[metcalfr]

Day 45 from seed. The browning that I had on some leaves doesn't appear to have caused any issue. They are drinking up 1.5L each of water per day. Only one that went through major trauma hasn't flowered yet.

 

[JakeDog]

Day 53 of Bloom OG Kush

 

[JakeDog]

Day 53 Bloom OG Kush (or so I'm told). Been temoving some Bud early, good, good, good stuff already. Remaining two weeks have removed almost all the fan leaves, leaving the sugar loaded leaves and heavy Buds to prioritize its remaining nutrients.
Cutting out the fan leaves also allows for two weeks of light to hit the lower less developed Buds.
Will use only tap water at a 6.0 Ph for the remaining two weeks before taking it down.