Another fan question?
- Thread starter teamgilly
- Start date
Aberration
New Member
Should be fine, I have a setup that used to function like that, and no problems in 6 months' use that way. I think it's using a rheostat to control fan speed that causes problems (because it's a bad idea).
Just keep in mind that a thermostat that turns on ventilation when it gets hot inside could feed a fire with new oxygen. Don't do anything that can cause a fire and you have no worries.
If you know how to wire properly, ignore the following.
Make sure the thermostat is on the hot side, and have separate neutral and ground. Wire it to meet code as if you were going to have it inspected. If you don't know, ask. Do those things and you will not start an electrical fire.
Just keep in mind that a thermostat that turns on ventilation when it gets hot inside could feed a fire with new oxygen. Don't do anything that can cause a fire and you have no worries.
If you know how to wire properly, ignore the following.
Make sure the thermostat is on the hot side, and have separate neutral and ground. Wire it to meet code as if you were going to have it inspected. If you don't know, ask. Do those things and you will not start an electrical fire.
- Thread starter
- #3
Aberration
New Member
Well, don't be scared. Just be wary.
Sorry, I went back and edited my first post to be less abrupt, and then you had already posted.
Is the thermostat the kind you plug into the wall and then plug another cord into the thermostat?
If so, have fun, use grounded cords, no longer than needed. Keep it off the floor and in good shape. Make drip loops: where a cord comes out of an object, let it drape down a bit before going back up to stay. That way if water collects on the cord somehow, it drips away from connections and (relatively) harmlessly to the floor. You'll be fine.
If you need to do wiring, you need to do it to a standard, like the electrical code where you live. Are you in the US? If so, you likely have 120V AC to work with, which means there is a hot wire, a neutral and a ground. Hot is usually black, neutral is white, and ground is green or bare. You always want all three if you can. The thermostat will wire in on the hot (black) side, so it interrupts the power and not the sink. Otherwise, the fan is hot even when the thermostat is off and a grounding issue could lead to electrocution or fire unexpectedly.
Don't be scared. Just educate yourself. I learned when I built a new kitchen addition. It took some reading, but it's not rocket science either. The hard part is to know when you are in over your head. Then learning what you need to know is fairly easy.
And remember that even a 20A 120V circuit only needs 12 gauge wire. I used $600 in 10 gauge unnecessarily. This is often how I learn.
I can give advice, but I'm not an electrician and cannot accept responsibility if you hurt yourself or someone else.
Sorry, I went back and edited my first post to be less abrupt, and then you had already posted.
Is the thermostat the kind you plug into the wall and then plug another cord into the thermostat?
If so, have fun, use grounded cords, no longer than needed. Keep it off the floor and in good shape. Make drip loops: where a cord comes out of an object, let it drape down a bit before going back up to stay. That way if water collects on the cord somehow, it drips away from connections and (relatively) harmlessly to the floor. You'll be fine.
If you need to do wiring, you need to do it to a standard, like the electrical code where you live. Are you in the US? If so, you likely have 120V AC to work with, which means there is a hot wire, a neutral and a ground. Hot is usually black, neutral is white, and ground is green or bare. You always want all three if you can. The thermostat will wire in on the hot (black) side, so it interrupts the power and not the sink. Otherwise, the fan is hot even when the thermostat is off and a grounding issue could lead to electrocution or fire unexpectedly.
Don't be scared. Just educate yourself. I learned when I built a new kitchen addition. It took some reading, but it's not rocket science either. The hard part is to know when you are in over your head. Then learning what you need to know is fairly easy.
And remember that even a 20A 120V circuit only needs 12 gauge wire. I used $600 in 10 gauge unnecessarily. This is often how I learn.
I can give advice, but I'm not an electrician and cannot accept responsibility if you hurt yourself or someone else.
Hightide805
New Member
good advice Aberration
