Another "is my harvest ready" thread

vonwolfen

New Member
Ok here is my problem
This is my first grow..its outdoors, in pots, organic(for the most part). I have a 60x-100x microscope, and noticed that several of the trics are amber. I took two cuttings in from a white widow, and a Black Domina to 2 co-ops and talk to the people there. They(two separate co-op owners) said it was still to early. It was green or they are still too green? One said 2 weeks before possible harvest the other 4-5 weeks(4-5 puts the harvest in mid-November). They both said that the trichs where cloudy with some amber, and left it at that. One said they still need to completely fill in(the buds), but I am losing branches every day from them breaking from the weight of the "flowers". I patch them up with nylons, and white out, but in some cases they branches have separated to much to repair.
They are clones planted mid June to early July(July 4 the last day), and started flowering on Aug 1st(give or take a week, depnding on the strain).
Also in some cases the hairs are all red, in some most are still white. I know different strains come in at different time, but the trichs starting to turn amber, and all the hairs being red is a sign of harvest(Correct?). If so then why do 2 separate co-op owners(both of whom know way more then I do, and in one case I respect his opinion) both say its not time.
Is there another way of telling if they are ready?
What is meant by still to green(like me with growing cannabis...ie. newbie ;) ). It must mean more then the plants are still to young. Is there a color change before harvest to the leaves?
Thanks for any help...
 
Hey Von, welcome to the forums. I'm in with the others. 50/50 on color is what your lookin for.

On your "breaking" problem, it's a common situation to deal with when the bud/flower begins to gain weight. Esdpecially if you get a little rain or wind during the bud/flower stage.

A simple preventative is to first drive one bamboo/wooden stake a few inches from the trunk (I use a 1-inch wooden stake as anything larger can damage the roots as the stake is being driven in) and then tie the plant to this stake (loosely) with garden twine. With larger plants, I surround the entire plant with 4ft field fencing(6inch squares) similar to a tomato plant cage set up, allowing the buds to be supported and grow thru the "cage". Given a choice between the two methods, I prefer the "cage" because tying all the limbs back to the main stalk can be a pain in the buttooski.

When using the stake method, is wise to get this main stake in early in the plant's life when the root system is still small and less likely to be damaged. Then, also using twine, tie each branch back to the main trunk or stake. I attach the twine just before the main bud on each branch,(dont tie the line in the bud area) making sure I attach the line quite a bit higher at the stem/stake point. When done correctly, the limb isnt being pulled upward and back towards the main trunk but rather it's just bein prevented from drooping any further. I leave a little slack because I want the bud/flower to lay over a bit to get full sun exposure. Tying too tight brings the bud/flower too verticle, not allowin full exposure to the sunlite. Hope this helps...:peace: peace n good luck MF

Note: I prefer the twine because a full knot isnt required on either end. A 1/2 knot is all that's needed and twine doesnt need to be tied tight to hold the bud/flower, just snug, makin it easier to remove later without damaging the bud/limb/plant etc. Perhaps bein a bit obsessive/compulsive, I also prefer the green colored twine because it blends in with the plant and I also spray paint my wood stakes green, making both less noticeable outdoors. So there's that...
 
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