Nutrient Question

Hi Missmouse.

I personally mix them up just prior to use. I've had occasions when I've left them mixed up for a couple days for various reasons and found a little scum developing on the inside of my water container if being aerated. It wasn't that the scum worried me as I'm using organic nutrients, but more that I just didn't want to start gunk growing inside the container. I have heard of people refrigerating unused mixed up nutrients for a while though.

Be well and happy growing.
 
Er i normally fill a bucket with X amount of water & leave to stand for 24 hours for chlorine to evaporate !

Some times you can notice a PH change between water left to stand and straight tap water, tap water PH can change though out the season depending on where the local water company source's the water from... this may also effect on how much chlorine they may put in it !

Gonna be a long winded answer if ya wanna know why :thumb:

How ever i've used both & really not noticed any real difference in growth or yield being a soil/compost grower myself - another debate it self ?


I mix nutrients before use, organic based nutrients may go off in matter of a few days, chemical/synthetic salt nutrients may form scum on surface of water after a few days.

PH of solution may change what ever nutrients are used over a period of 24 hours plus !



Yet again its another debate whether you need to PH correct nutrient solution for soil growing, their appears to be to sides of thought to the method at hand ?
 
Er i normally fill a bucket with X amount of water & leave to stand for 24 hours for chlorine to evaporate !

Some times you can notice a PH change between water left to stand and straight tap water, tap water PH can change though out the season depending on where the local water company source's the water from... this may also effect on how much chlorine they may put in it !

Gonna be a long winded answer if ya wanna know why :thumb:

How ever i've used both & really not noticed any real difference in growth or yield being a soil/compost grower myself - another debate it self ?


I mix nutrients before use, organic based nutrients may go off in matter of a few days, chemical/synthetic salt nutrients may form scum on surface of water after a few days.

PH of solution may change what ever nutrients are used over a period of 24 hours plus !



Yet again its another debate whether you need to PH correct nutrient solution for soil growing, their appears to be to sides of thought to the method at hand ?

My pH after prepping my nute solution is 6.5 ... I've been keeping the water sit open for 24-48 hours to dispel the chlorine, and I've been prepping my solution, organic mostly, right before I water.

How often should I be checking the pH?
 
Missmouse,

As Fuzzy alluded to, there is are two schools of thought on the matter of checking PH in soil. I checked your journal and see that your growing in peat moss, perlite, and something else that you couldn't remember. Forgive me if I'm overlooking any additional info.

I am aware that peat moss has a tendency to become a little acidic as time goes by and it breaks down. I noted that you had checked the PH pretty early in your grow and it was 6.8 with the runoff being 7.0. I'd suggest that you won't need to worry with checking the PH for at least a couple months. Since we tend to keep our plants a little more on the dry side, the peat simply isn't going to break down very quickly.
 
you should check your ph every time you water thats what i do
you increase the does as the plants get older
if you google search your nutrient brand schedule you should get a guide but you should start at 1/4 strength and work your way up
different strains can handle more nutes so you have to figure that out

i usualy mix right before water and i dont always let it stand for any hours and ive never had any problems with chlorine
but i still would let it stand if i could remember:peace:
 
Missmouse,

As Fuzzy alluded to, there is are two schools of thought on the matter of checking PH in soil. I checked your journal and see that your growing in peat moss, perlite, and something else that you couldn't remember. Forgive me if I'm overlooking any additional info.

I am aware that peat moss has a tendency to become a little acidic as time goes by and it breaks down. I noted that you had checked the PH pretty early in your grow and it was 6.8 with the runoff being 7.0. I'd suggest that you won't need to worry with checking the PH for at least a couple months. Since we tend to keep our plants a little more on the dry side, the peat simply isn't going to break down very quickly.

The third ingredient was limestone, lol ... I haven't checked run-off pH yet, should I?
 
My pH after prepping my nute solution is 6.5 ... I've been keeping the water sit open for 24-48 hours to dispel the chlorine, and I've been prepping my solution, organic mostly, right before I water.

How often should I be checking the pH?

That is a good question :thumb:

Well ya don't really have to with soil...

I normally prepare enough nutrients in water to supply my crop per feeding before use, i don't PH check them & have never bothered after the 3 rd grow... some 18 months ago or more with many good grows under my belt.

Why you may ask ?

Soil/compost in general is self buffering in nature.

This means the soil/compost will return to its ambient PH after watering or feeding after several hours or more, a sort term flux in PH is pretty minor after all.

What really matters is the correct PH of the soil/compost that is where it all happens making nutrient most available, mainly between PH 6 & 7 will do you well !

All of this self buffering can be observed with a simple PH probe purchased from most good garden centers or stores etc, etc, etc.

A basic model..

006710.JPG


Best way to use these are insert into soil/compost for 10 minutes and take reading, remove and repeat process every several hours or so, leaving them in the soil/compost for prolonged periods of time like days or weeks buggers em up.

Take reading before watering with nutrients then several hours later after, take another reading several hours after that ora reading 24 hours later.... ya see the PH buffering effect taking place.

Repeat as many times as needed to believe !



Some basic facts which you may need to look at...

Most plant species have adapted to thrive in a wide range of PH soils !

MJ is grown across many regions across the globe & i'm pretty sure the PH of soil doe's change between regions, i can really go to town on this if ya really want ?

Many others grow MJ out doors across the globe, do we honestly see them PH correct nutrient solution for feeding ?

How the hell do we see them measure run off in a field ?

When amending soil/compost PH value is recommended for optimal nutrient up take.

We don't, it vastly boils down to a misconception between hydroponics & soil growing, that is all..




After all, if PH correcting nutrients was a proper form of agriculture or horticulture why don't we see farmers/crop growers or other plant growers PH correct their nutrients for their plants... that is the question ?

We don't because its a general misconception involved with growing MJ indoors often confused with hydroponic methods (water based)




MJ been growing in soil/compost for thousands of years why people believe its a science these days is beyond belief when basic horticultural principles hold value whether out doors or indoors... when indoors its about providing optimal environment RH, Temp & some basic watering /feeding regime :thumb:
 
I am actually waiting for a meter bought on ebay, been waiting a month now ... but don't you think that my problem was caused by too high a pH. My tap water is 7.8 and I watered with that for 2 weeks, my nute solution is 6.5 a nd all of a sudden, a week later and they're doing great.
 
I am actually waiting for a meter bought on ebay, been waiting a month now ... but don't you think that my problem was caused by too high a pH. My tap water is 7.8 and I watered with that for 2 weeks, my nute solution is 6.5 a nd all of a sudden, a week later and they're doing great.


I took a look at your journal in progress & it appeared that you was over cautious with the nutrients, which may of suggested you was indeed under feeding the girlies which happened to causing a deficiency upon the leafs... some thing around day 17 of flowering & looked like an early sign of P-phosphorus def.

By the sounds of it when you was checking the PH values of water/nutrient solution you may off increased nutrient application strength which over all has countered the def for the time being, hence your current belief...
 
I took a look at your journal in progress & it appeared that you was over cautious with the nutrients, which may of suggested you was indeed under feeding the girlies which happened to causing a deficiency upon the leafs... some thing around day 17 of flowering & looked like an early sign of P-phosphorus def.

By the sounds of it when you was checking the PH values of water/nutrient solution you may off increased nutrient application strength which over all has countered the def for the time being, hence your current belief...

Why for the time being? You're worrying me now, lol
 
Why for the time being? You're worrying me now, lol

lol

Well in general i make most replies from a rule of the thumb experience based upon novice growers replies to various questions asked !

But it would appear that on average most plants in the early flowering stage may suffer with P-phosphorus or towards mid flowering a K-potassium def from my own experience...


This may depend on the individuals feeding regime of nutrients, not all strains respond the same to nutrient dosage based on guide lines of what ever chart of said brand name of nutrients !

I don't believe you have mention what nutrients you are using & how often in your journal ?


But ye its possible to grow a plant from seed with out problems providing a majority of aspects meets requirements of said strain grown, it would appear that you have got lucky with strains chosen so far & might not be the same with the next strain ?



How ever you did mention some think about green fingers in your journal... this may suggest some under standing of gardening principles by the choices you have made so far !

I feel that you will do well in your endeavors but would suggest a little more research on such matters to improve your existing skills...


Regards - fuzzy :green_heart:
 
lol

Well in general i make most replies from a rule of the thumb experience based upon novice growers replies to various questions asked !

But it would appear that on average most plants in the early flowering stage may suffer with P-phosphorus or towards mid flowering a K-potassium def from my own experience...


This may depend on the individuals feeding regime of nutrients, not all strains respond the same to nutrient dosage based on guide lines of what ever chart of said brand name of nutrients !

I don't believe you have mention what nutrients you are using & how often in your journal ?


But ye its possible to grow a plant from seed with out problems providing a majority of aspects meets requirements of said strain grown, it would appear that you have got lucky with strains chosen so far & might not be the same with the next strain ?



How ever you did mention some think about green fingers in your journal... this may suggest some under standing of gardening principles by the choices you have made so far !

I feel that you will do well in your endeavors but would suggest a little more research on such matters to improve your existing skills...


Regards - fuzzy :green_heart:

Hi fuzzy ... thanks for the info ... and trust me, I have done so much research, but so far have been responding to what the plants are telling me. For example, I can tell when a plant needs watering by touching it's leaves ... sometimes I go by weight of the pot too.

As for nutrients, I am giving Botanicare PRO Bloom and Big Bud as a supplement ... I am also waiting for some Awesome Blossums supplement from my local store.

I feed at every watering, which is usually every 3-4 days, depending on my pot size (I have them in different sized pots) and I water until I have run off

My nutrient treated solution has a pH of 6.5, with a run-off of 6.3 or so

Any other questions? I may have forgot something critical ... lol
 
I have a nutrient question.... I've got a 90 gal fish tank with a protein skimmer underneath. this skimmer pulls all the biological ickies out of the water n collects it. these "ickies" are basically Nitrates. could I take nitrate-waste n mix into my soil? anyone else do that?
 
you should check your ph every time you water thats what i do
you increase the does as the plants get older
if you google search your nutrient brand schedule you should get a guide but you should start at 1/4 strength and work your way up
different strains can handle more nutes so you have to figure that out

i usualy mix right before water and i dont always let it stand for any hours and ive never had any problems with chlorine
but i still would let it stand if i could remember:peace:

Well, I started at 1/4 strength and my plants suffered big time, starvation ... right away I did 75% of the rec dose and my plants perked up and got real healthy.

As for checking pH, I have done it 3 times so far, and it never changes ... I will check once in awhile but only cause I'm a nurse and like to mix things up :)
 
I have a nutrient question.... I've got a 90 gal fish tank with a protein skimmer underneath. this skimmer pulls all the biological ickies out of the water n collects it. these "ickies" are basically Nitrates. could I take nitrate-waste n mix into my soil? anyone else do that?


Yes you can :thumb:

Their are systems called aquaponics which use the fish waste as fertilizer in an edd & flood style system.

How ever whilst good in N-nitrogen & P-phosphorus it lacks K-potassium nutrients... not sure about micro nutrients tho but i'm it has trace value stuff.
 
FuzzyDuck- awesome.. good to know!

think I can use it straight from the protein skimmer? I'm concerned about active, bad bacterias. it is basically proteins/biological waste. I've read that if animal waste (manure, guano )is used, it should be dried out for 6 months first.
 
Day 22 of flowering and things are looking ok, except for the few leaves that are unhealthy, which I remove .... Where's the sense in wasting enery and light?

This is the triplet, thankfully all girls
tripletResized.jpg


This is number 4, can't bring myself to name them ...
PLANT4resized.jpg


Dry spot on leaf
DrySpotonLeafFeb8resized.jpg


Unhealthy leaves
Badleavesresized.jpg



Anyone have any ideas, comments?
 
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