Plant problems

[Charmanderrr]

Each plant chose its own issue and it’s Always different from the one before it. All my plants are currently almost a month old now since germination. So still young and pretty small. Although in the solo cups I’m using, they are in soil from last years grow, it’s probably pretty inert, so I’ve been introducing them to ferts lately. Some kelp, some fox farms, and some CalMag. I began the feedings after noticing some nitrogen deficiencies on a couple, I figured the rest would follow soon enough. All the issues so far, have been found on the lower leaves though, wouldn’t that mean they are immobile nutes causing the problem?

^The 2 on the left are from one plant. The 2 on the right from another, the same strain though, Balkh Chitral. The tips of the leaves are a little dryer than the rest but still not crumbling. Is this root rot? Or too much heat and also a lack of nitrogen? (These were the lowest leaves)

^This little girl is one of my Gorilla Zkittles from Barney’s. She’s got a potassium deficiency right?

^This is a clone of Ghost OG and every leaf is kinking like this. Is this the heat intensity?

This lil lady is the last seed of the Banana Sundae I had from Crop King. She’s got the sick leaf on bottom, and the slight curling going on with the leaf edges. Idk what to diagnose for this one.

 

[SmokingWings]

Although in the solo cups I’m using, they are in soil from last years grow, it’s probably pretty inert,

A lot of organic growers are using soil that has been used before, sometimes for as many as 6 times. How long it can be used depends on how well it was mixed and how much basic organic compost or humus was used. Ingredients like peat moss or coco coir or Perlite are inert because they do not provide very much in the way of water soluble nutrients,
usually because they decompose so slow.

I began the feedings after noticing some nitrogen deficiencies on a couple, I figured the rest would follow soon enough. All the issues so far, have been found on the lower leaves though, wouldn’t that mean they are immobile nutes causing the problem?

It does look like a bit of Nitrogen and Cal-Mag deficiency and possibly Potassium. Immobile nutrients are those that the plant does not move from the older leaves to the newer ones. If the lower leaves are starting to show signs of needing Nitrogen on the lower leaves it is often because the plant has started removing that nutrient from those leaves is sending it to the newer and often healthier leaves near the top. In that case they are 'mobile' nutrients.

Time to transplant from those small plastic cups to a larger pot of soil. I have noticed that doing that is often enough to stop the signs of nutrient deficiency for awhile. It also speeds up the plant's growth because all that new soil acts as a source for more nutrients. Any fertilizers the grower puts into the water is a bonus and helps keep the plant healthy.

Some kelp, some fox farms, and some CalMag.

You should mention what the Fox Farms is. They sell about 15 to 20 different fertilizer mixes or nutrients. Others in the group might see other problems and might not know what suggestions to make since they do not know what you are already feeding the plants

 

[Charmanderrr]

A lot of organic growers are using soil that has been used before, sometimes for as many as 6 times. How long it can be used depends on how well it was mixed and how much basic organic compost or humus was used. Ingredients like peat moss or coco coir or Perlite are inert because they do not provide very much in the way of water soluble nutrients,

usually because they decompose so slow.


It does look like a bit of Nitrogen and Cal-Mag deficiency and possibly Potassium. Immobile nutrients are those that the plant does not move from the older leaves to the newer ones. If the lower leaves are starting to show signs of needing Nitrogen on the lower leaves it is often because the plant has started removing that nutrient from those leaves is sending it to the newer and often healthier leaves near the top. In that case they are 'mobile' nutrients.

Time to transplant from those small plastic cups to a larger pot of soil. I have noticed that doing that is often enough to stop the signs of nutrient deficiency for awhile. It also speeds up the plant's growth because all that new soil acts as a source for more nutrients. Any fertilizers the grower puts into the water is a bonus and helps keep the plant healthy.


You should mention what the Fox Farms is. They sell about 15 to 20 different fertilizer mixes or nutrients. Others in the group might see other problems and might not know what suggestions to make since they do not know what you are already feeding the plants

As far as what Fox farms nutesI use; i add some of the casting/guano tea, idr what it’s called off the top of my head. Big bloom? But it’s 1-<1-<1. And recently added grow big to one feed, the veg bottle, it’s 6-4-4. And like I said CalMag and liquid kelp.
I guess I should say that when I add mycorrhizae to the soil I mix it with some banana peel meal. I sun dry organic banana peels, grind em in a coffee grinder to a fine powder and sprinkle that in too. Probably not going to be bioavailable anytime soon but meh, it woulda been waste anyways. I put it in the red cups too.
I do thank you for the time you took to give me a hand here. I’m going to transplant Asap. I have fresh soil in all the pots they are moving to now.
Classic mix of FFOF and FFHF. But I added some Terracraft from Mother Earth to each to mix things up. wish me luck

 

[SmokingWings]

As far as what Fox farms nutesI use; i add some of the casting/guano tea, idr what it’s called off the top of my head. Big bloom? But it’s 1-<1-<1. And recently added grow big to one feed, the veg bottle, it’s 6-4-4. And like I said CalMag and liquid kelp.

The Big Bloom has NPK numbers of 0-0.5-0.7 and is used once or twice a week for every week of the grow from the time the seed comes up to the end when the plant is harvested. My opinion is that it is not the major fertilizer. Instead it is to provide enough P and K to maintain a minimum level for healthy plants but not enough to promote big growth. The main reason to use it is to promote a large population of the micro-organisms that will be converting what is in the soil mix and the other fertilizers that are recommended.

The Grow Big is the one that has become the important fertilizer blend as it is a 6-4-4 liquid fertilizer which should be started the second week and used till 2-3 weeks before harvest. Recommended use is once or twice a week depending on your watering schedule.

I’m going to transplant Asap. I have fresh soil in all the pots they are moving to now.
Classic mix of FFOF and FFHF. But I added some Terracraft from Mother Earth to each to mix things up. wish me luck

There is not much difference between the Fox Farms Happy Frog and the Ocean Forest except that the Ocean Forest might have a bit more organic fertilizers mixed in. The Terracraft is more of the same. They are all a blend of peat moss and coco coir and 'composted forest products' and some worm castings plus a few other organics. None of them actually contain traditional or 'classic' compost or humus.

They are all good for promoting root growth and eventually large root balls or root mass. They have enough to maintain healthy plants but within 3 weeks the grower will have to be supplementing with additional fertilizers and nutrients.

After transplanting start using the Big Bloom and Grow Big as soon as the first time the soil is ready for water. Keep up with the Cal-Mag product. Maybe keep up with the Kelp you have been using. There may be an option of cutting back on it since the Grow Big has 4% Potassium so keep that in mind.

Later will come the Tiger Bloom.

The damage on the leaves will not go away. It will be there forever. The improved feeding schedule will help eliminate any new areas of damage. Going into larger pots will help to eliminate the deficiencies

None of those leaves that I can see in the photos have to be cut off. Leave them on when transplanting since they will let you have something to compare the new growth against. That way you can tell whether the problem is coming back or if there is a new one starting.

Just a tip. and it is up to you. It might be best to get rid of the net for now. It will get in the way and make handling the plants, moving them around, doing any early training and watering more difficult. Been there, done that.

 

[Charmanderrr]

Well that certainly is detail lol. And I’m grateful for it and for your time.
I want to say I am pretty familiar with with fertilizers and their jobs, Im just at a loss for why each plant if being so weird this time around. The soil isn’t a year old and only supported one grow. (However I didn’t do anything to revitalize the soil)
Also the happy frog soil says it has humic acid that’s the only reason I throw it in there. And the terracraft was literally just for fun. I needed one more bag so I got that one.
And as far as the Fox Farms stuff I just seen everyone uses it so I got some too. However I replaced the tiger bloom with flora nova bloom it’s a bit stronger and tends to remove the need for the grow big in flower.

 

[SmokingWings]

Im just at a loss for why each plant if being so weird this time around.

It happens and sometimes we have to roll with it.

The soil isn’t a year old and only supported one grow. (However I didn’t do anything to revitalize the soil)
Also the happy frog soil says it has humic acid that’s the only reason I throw it in there. And the terracraft was literally just for fun. I needed one more bag so I got that one.

The potting soil still needs to be amended with compost and humus in order to support the heavy feeding demands from the plants.

 

[Charmanderrr]

Ya that makes perfect sense when I read it like that. Sorry to throw a random question on you, but do you know how long the seed supports the plant for? I imagine only till it gets first couple sets of leaves.

 

[SmokingWings]

Ya that makes perfect sense when I read it like that. Sorry to throw a random question on you, but do you know how long the seed supports the plant for? I imagine only till it gets first couple sets of leaves.

Not a random question at all. As soon as the seed germinates or sprouts (both words mean the same thing) it turns into a plant and is no longer a seed. The first two leaves are the small round ones called 'cotyledons' and they are pushed up to the surface by the new root. They supply the nutrients the new plant needs to start building a larger root and the first set of new leaves. The cotyledons support the plant as long as they are needed and still have some nutrients left.

This link is to another message I wrote on the topic about two weeks ago with a bit more detail on what is happening....

https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/18-month-old-seeds.511855/post-5498999