The DIY COB Addiction

[Mittin]

I think you'll want a little more power out of those chips.. You could buy a hlg-320-1750a and have 300w on tap when you need it in flower.. Then as JJ said, use a screwdriver and dim down the driver to 150w or less when the plants are small.. This way you'll have your efficiency when you want it, and a blazing photon slinger when you need it..

You can always dim down on a powerful driver, but you can't dim up on a weak one...

Get the 90cri, your stretch will not be close to hps... Your buds will thank you..
Cheers

Thanks JC!
That sounds like a great idea!


I'm gonna come back tomorrow with a few more questions for you and JJ.

You guys friggin rock. I was getting a little annoyed....and overwhelmed with all the information I needed to learn.

Thank you very much fella's!

 

[JimmyJames905]

Thanks JC!
That sounds like a great idea!


I'm gonna come back tomorrow with a few more questions for you and JJ.

You guys friggin rock. I was getting a little annoyed....and overwhelmed with all the information I needed to learn.

Thank you very much fella's!

Sweet. You have tons of options. It all depends on your $$$. From 30w per COB on the Vero 18 to 100w per COB on the Vero 29 C

 

[jimmyclone]

Mittin, if your going to run 36v vero29 d.. The 320-1750a is a great match, if you want to run vero29 b's or c's i would look at constant voltage drivers.. You have to wire in parallel not series for constant voltage drivers, but they just fit better and you can get away with just one driver.. If your going to use a constant current driver with higher voltage chips, usually you will need more than 1 and it gets costly.. Let us know which way you want to go, we'll help u out bud..
Cheers

 

[Peachapoil]

It might sound weird but i found a driver i can get in a store really cheap (12.37$ can tx incl.) Since vero 29 draw 36.2v at 1400ma it would be a little pain in the ass to mount the set up but i would have 1 driver/led

Meanwell lrs-50-36
Since the output ia adjustable from 32.4v ~ 39.6v i could adjust the output at 36.2-36.3 to draw my 1400ma

I would simply like to know if i'm wrong or not ? I don't want you to say ; selecting hlg-240h-c1750 would be a better build and bla bla bla, i just want to know if i read the data sheet wrong or not !

 

[jimmyclone]

Would it work.... Yes..
But what a mess you would have of wires.. I dont know how many cobs you are going to run, but that driver would be more of a headache if your running 4 or more cobs.. Also heat may be an issue, running any driver close to its limits will create heat, and if your gonna run 5-6 cobs in a small tent it could be a problem.. And what an eye sore all those drivers would be.. They also are not encased, water, dust, dirt anything could get in there... I would stay away..

How many cobs are you going to run? What size space?

 

[JimmyJames905]

It might sound weird but i found a driver i can get in a store really cheap (12.37$ can tx incl.) Since vero 29 draw 36.2v at 1400ma it would be a little pain in the ass to mount the set up but i would have 1 driver/led .

Meanwell lrs-50-36
Since the output ia adjustable from 32.4v ~ 39.6v i could adjust the output at 36.2-36.3 to draw my 1400ma

I would simply like to know if i'm wrong or not ? I don't want you to say ; selecting hlg-240h-c1750 would be a better build and bla bla bla, i just want to know if i read the data sheet wrong or not !

You're going to want a IP65 minimum rated driver as you'll be working with water and electricity.
There's a reason most of us use HLG series driver's.

 

[Peachapoil]

I would like to start 9 cobs and go up to 12 or start with 8 and go up to 12 cobs or start with 6 and go up to 12

Tent size 4x4 and i would like to creat a fixture 40" x 40" to get the best possible coverage

They also have different driver at 36 volt but 200w the lrs-200-36

My driver would be outside the tent

 

[Mittin]

Sweet. You have tons of options. It all depends on your $$$. From 30w per COB on the Vero 18 to 100w per COB on the Vero 29 C

Well....I do like bargains...and didn't want to spend a shitload. I also didn't know if I wanted to put in the extra work trying to build one of these units. But after researching the typical LEDs and now COBs, it seems I would be a fool not to go with a COB array. So yeah, I'm going to put in the extra $$ now and get an excellent light.

BTW....can anyone put up a sticky thread that compares LEDs to COBs...and lists all the pro's and con's? I think that would be very useful to many members that are thinking about COBs.

Mittin, if your going to run 36v vero29 d.. The 320-1750a is a great match, if you want to run vero29 b's or c's i would look at constant voltage drivers.. You have to wire in parallel not series for constant voltage drivers, but they just fit better and you can get away with just one driver.. If your going to use a constant current driver with higher voltage chips, usually you will need more than 1 and it gets costly.. Let us know which way you want to go, we'll help u out bud..
Cheers

I'll be honest...I don't know a heck of a lot about all this stuff. This makes sense but also begs a few questions so I fully understand what's going on here.

Drivers - Just to be clear, the HLG-320H-C1750 is the Constant Current driver (C) and the HLG-320H-54 is the Constant Voltage driver?
If I use a Vero29 B and a CV driver, how do I know what kind of driver to use? Is it the Voltage Forward of the COB matched to the DC Voltage of the driver? So the CV driver mentioned above would allow me to run the Vero29 B? If that is so, what determines how many COBs I can run off of a single CV driver?

Also....what are the benefits of running a higher voltage COB?

 

[JimmyJames905]

Well....I do like bargains...and didn't want to spend a shitload. I also didn't know if I wanted to put in the extra work trying to build one of these units. But after researching the typical LEDs and now COBs, it seems I would be a fool not to go with a COB array. So yeah, I'm going to put in the extra $$ now and get an excellent light.

BTW....can anyone put up a sticky thread that compares LEDs to COBs...and lists all the pro's and con's? I think that would be very useful to many members that are thinking about COBs.



I'll be honest...I don't know a heck of a lot about all this stuff. This makes sense but also begs a few questions so I fully understand what's going on here.

Drivers - Just to be clear, the HLG-320H-C1750 is the Constant Current driver (C) and the HLG-320H-54 is the Constant Voltage driver?
If I use a Vero29 B and a CV driver, how do I know what kind of driver to use? Is it the Voltage Forward of the COB matched to the DC Voltage of the driver? So the CV driver mentioned above would allow me to run the Vero29 B? If that is so, what determines how many COBs I can run off of a single CV driver?

Also....what are the benefits of running a higher voltage COB?

Bridgelux does not recommend using a constant voltage driver with the Vero series LED COBS.

 

[jimmyclone]

Ya all cob led companies say this because there is a very, very small chance of thermal run away.. But that could only happen if if your driving your cobs very hard, and one burns out, then that amperage gets applied to the remaining cobs..and could cause a chain effect, burning out all your cobs.. Yes the 320-1750 is a constant current driver..36v chips..


Ok constant voltage, means exactly that.. The voltage is fixed.. So lets take the 320-54..

What happens. Here is you divide the total available amperage by the number of cobs in your string.. So this particular driver has 5.95amps on tap.. Lets say 6a.

So if you want to run 4 cobs
4cobs ÷ 6 amps = 1.5a per cob..1500ma
6cobs ÷ 6 amps = 1.0 a per cob 1000ma
10cobs ÷ 6 amps = 0.6a per cob 600ma

You can add as many cobs as you want, but your amperage and in turn your wattage per cob goes down, but efficiency goes up.. This works well as you can add lots of cobs to a single driver.. You can actually use the hlg-320-48 for 50v chips.. (I will double check for veros if your gonna go this route) . This driver will give you more amperage to work with. 6.7amps..

Personally i would run 8 cobs in a 4*4 setup.. I do it and works very well.. 3-2-3 design on a 36*36" frame.
But if u want to future proof your system, i would get a hlg-600-54a.. This way you can run 8 cobs now and dim the driver to whatever wattage u want, say 300-400w and when u want to add 4 more chips you can have 12 chips able to run 50w a piece and have 600w on tap, (60-600w)... This way you will have 1 driver powering all your cobs, and even dimming across the whole lot.. Parallel wiring requires more work and a little more complicated for newbies...

So if you want to stay simple, i would run 8 vero29 D 36v and 2 hlg 185-1400's and have 400w...

If you want to be able to change your system around and add or remove cobs later, and have 600w i would go the constant voltage route..

Cobkits owner is running most of his fixtures on constant voltage drivers now and is very happy with them.. Check his site he is selling them, andvthe best price on citizen cobs too...
Cheers

 

[JimmyJames905]

The new HLG 480 C series will drive 9 COBs at 1400mA.

 

[Mittin]

Great....thanks a lot guys!

I think I will just stick with the basics. I like the 5 x Vero29d cobs and the HLG320-1750.
I live in a condo so there won't be any big changes in my growing setup for the time being.
So this option for my 32" x 32" tent would be good? Meaning when compared to the 600w of HPS I currently have, it will:
1. be better lighting for the plants (Veg and Flower)
2. be more efficient
3. create less heat


And just out of curiosity, in a nutshell, what is the benefit of running the c or b cobs?

 

[Peachapoil]

Thanks jimmyclone
This info on c.c vs c.a really light it all up ! I was thinking of going with 185h-c1400 this morning so you are confirming my tough...

Here is my plan on the setup ;

The only thing not to sure about is the 1750k cobs, if i can find the at a good price in canada i will buy because i read somewhere they were good chips to had into a build.

Last question, i have a goos idea on how to wire all my things up but for the inline meter, potentiometer and driver what would be the good order to put them ? If possible a simple drawing on the table corner would be awesome

Edit : Also there is 2 option in the hlg-185h-c1400 a and b... In the datasheet the option says you can dim+ or dim- from 0-10V does it mean you can go to 153 v max ? (because vero 29 run at 36.2v at 1400ma which means 144.8V and the driver push 143V so i could be able just to push it 1.8V) Not sure if i read the datasheet right or wrong ?

 

[JimmyJames905]

Thanks jimmyclone
This info on c.c vs c.a really light it all up ! I was thinking of going with 185h-c1400 this morning so you are confirming my tough...

Here is my plan on the setup ;

The only thing not to sure about is the 1750k cobs, if i can find the at a good price in canada i will buy because i read somewhere they were good chips to had into a build.

Last question, i have a goos idea on how to wire all my things up but for the inline meter, potentiometer and driver what would be the good order to put them ? If possible a simple drawing on the table corner would be awesome

COBs don't come in mA they come in volts. The D series can run at 1750 but you'll need the HLG 320h-c1750 to take full advantage of the higher current.

 

[newbee61]

Hey guys;
I really get confused about all the info here, because as I said I'm good at eng. but not so good as you guys to understand every term and second I do not understand from electronics at all. But I really want to make my own lamp and sure I can do it with a little help.

And I read also what "jimmyclone" has written;
"I would get all 3000k 90cri or 3500k 90cri, which ever you prefer.. You dont need to mix spectrums.. Both of those options above will gro from seed to weed and kill it in flower.."

Is it not better when we mix the spectrum with blue (from seed to flower). after than blue+red (till the end)? In a way it is proven that we should use first Metal-halide and then the Sodium (HPS). Just curious about it. Because its like grass and will grow under every light, but the question is which one is the best for the end result?

As a end result I think (I'm writing I think because I want that you approve it) I will make that order list like that...

8x BXRC-35G10K0-D-73-SE (VERO SE 29 Series 3500K 90 CRI min 10491 lm 37.6 V 3 SDCM Warm White LED Array)
2x HLG-240H-C1750B
1x 0-10V Electronic Pot
8x Thermal pads
8x 140mm passive heatsinks
8x 1m angle aluminium

I guess thats it...

can you also give me a link for how to get these LED's together with the thermal pads, passive heatsinks and with the driver?

I will glad if you help me out..

Cheers...

 

[JimmyJames905]

Hey guys;
I really get confused about all the info here, because as I said I'm good at eng. but not so good as you guys to understand every term and second I do not understand from electronics at all. But I really want to make my own lamp and sure I can do it with a little help.

And I read also what "jimmyclone" has written;
"I would get all 3000k 90cri or 3500k 90cri, which ever you prefer.. You dont need to mix spectrums.. Both of those options above will gro from seed to weed and kill it in flower.."

Is it not better when we mix the spectrum with blue (from seed to flower). after than blue+red (till the end)? In a way it is proven that we should use first Metal-halide and then the Sodium (HPS). Just curious about it. Because its like grass and will grow under every light, but the question is which one is the best for the end result?

As a end result I think (I'm writing I think because I want that you approve it) I will make that order list like that...

8x BXRC-35G10K0-D-73-SE (VERO SE 29 Series 3500K 90 CRI min 10491 lm 37.6 V 3 SDCM Warm White LED Array)
2x HLG-240H-C1750B
1x 0-10V Electronic Pot
8x Thermal pads
8x 140mm passive heatsinks
8x 1m angle aluminium

I guess thats it...

can you also give me a link for how to get these LED's together with the thermal pads, passive heatsinks and with the driver?

I will glad if you help me out..

Cheers...

The pot (potentiometer) must be 100k ohms linear. Look for a B100k marking on the pot.

 

[jimmyclone]

Thanks jimmyclone
This info on c.c vs c.a really light it all up ! I was thinking of going with 185h-c1400 this morning so you are confirming my tough...

Here is my plan on the setup ;

The only thing not to sure about is the 1750k cobs, if i can find the at a good price in canada i will buy because i read somewhere they were good chips to had into a build.

Last question, i have a goos idea on how to wire all my things up but for the inline meter, potentiometer and driver what would be the good order to put them ? If possible a simple drawing on the table corner would be awesome

Edit : Also there is 2 option in the hlg-185h-c1400 a and b... In the datasheet the option says you can dim+ or dim- from 0-10V does it mean you can go to 153 v max ? (because vero 29 run at 36.2v at 1400ma which means 144.8V and the driver push 143V so i could be able just to push it 1.8V) Not sure if i read the datasheet right or wrong ?

If this light is in a dedicated flower room i would put 1750k's, otherwise for a "full cycle" panel, i would just install 3000-3500k, but make sure you get "90CRI", the far reds will be more than enough for flowering. These spectrums are killin it.
A drivers have a built in dimmer
B drivers have a wire coming out that u add a pot to and can mount anywhere..
If using 2 drivers on 1 panel like i am, i prefer having 1 pot dimming 2 drivers together.. So the intensity is uniform across your canopy.

I will do a little diagram for u bud..

If thats the case on the driver voltage i would step up to the 240-1400.. Just to be safe..
Cheers

 

[jimmyclone]

O, and you might get a little hot spot in the middle having those 4 so close.. I would push them out a little further..
Im not a huge fan of mixing spectrums that are that far apart on 1 panel.. Different areas of your 4*4 will have completely different spectrums.. If i could go back and rebuild my panels from scratch they would all be 3000/90cri..
Cheers

 

[jimmyclone]

Oooooppppppssss.
Just looked at your dimensions closer, 36" panel and 20" spacing on the center 4... You are good buddy... Nice design, i like...
Cheers

 

[jimmyclone]

Heres a diagram, hope u can read it.. On the fly at work..