I oxygenate my water with a fish tank air pump and stone , its the strains that get big this is why im sticking to med sized
View media item 1784463
View media item 1784463
Wanting to go to coco but need help
- Thread starter Dbdub
- Start date
these are all autos fed once daily
PumasPyjamas
Active Member
Yeah, those additives/boosters will end up costing you plenty. Some of them are useful, but they're not essential in my opinion. Also the prices can be just straight up ridiculous. I found out along the way that I just burn the plants if I add Big Bud or something like that. So I just stuck to using the base kit + some choice additives like voodoo juice. I used to get plenty of run-off pretty much every watering during previous runs, but it was tedious to clean up and became a hassle so I tried to give just enough to fill the reservoir, and it ended up working just the same and being a way more chill way to use hempys.
- Thread starter
- #24
Dbdub
Well-Known Member
Man there's a lot to it. I dontha k all of you for your I out and def so.thing I want to consider down the road.
After seeing your plants I feel like mine are small.
Can wait for my 2nd grow. A lot learned along the first
After seeing your plants I feel like mine are small.
Can wait for my 2nd grow. A lot learned along the first
Woblaaaah
Well-Known Member
Very nice
these are all autos fed once daily
KillerShroom
420 Member
Time to revive this thread. I'm in the pacific northwest, USA, trying to find more information on this Cocoa/Worm casting method. I'm surprised I cant find much and some people seem to be confused about the methods you're asking about. Here's what I've learned over the last 6 months. I also cannot get Gaia green amendments.
I started growing in April. First I started with a 'no extra feeding necessary' super soil that I purchased online. It was okay. I ruined it because I added extra nutrients. I couldn't help myself. I wanted to make soil myself Since then I have been watching a LOT of Mr.Canucks Grow and have switched to the cocoa coir/worm castings/ slow release amendment style that he uses which is what you are asking about. My second round of flowering using this method is going WAY better. 4 weeks along and these guys are poppin ! I've also started learning how organic, natural soil actually works because with this method you are actually feeding the soil rather than the plant.
The mix I make is as follows:
75% cocoa/perlite premix and 25% worm castings.
I use Down to Erath Natural fertilizers. This company is based 3 hours from my house so I am proud to use them. They do not advertise as "cannabis" specific fertilizers but they are extremely close to Gaia Green amendments Mr. Canuck uses. They are the #1 100% organic, slow release amendment in the northwest. As far as I know.
I use: Bone meal, shrimp meal, bat guano, alfalfa meal, kelp meal, oyster shell, langbeinite, bio-live, neem seed meal, rose and flower mix 4/8/4, vegetable garden 4/4/4, Rock Phosphate, Bio Char and Mykos.
Obviously I don't use these amendments all at the same time. Some are for mixing a new soil. Some are for amending on the monthly schedule or as needed. Mr. Canuck uses a basic method which works awesome and is simple.
You CANNOT use liquid nutrients if you use an organic soil method. You cannot use anything with a chelating agent. This will kill the beneficial bacteria in the soil which will hurt the plants ability to uptake the nutrients it needs. For PHing the water I use citric acid crystals. (my tap water is about 7.0 +/- .5) Do not use liquid PH balancers such as phosphoric acid. It is a beneficial microbe killer. If you live in a large city than your tap water likely has a large amount of chlorine in it. You have to aerate your water for 24 hours to get this out or it will kill soil microbes as well.
Some people are confused telling you to PH lower than 6.2. This is a natural method using worm casting to get the live bacteria and microbes into the cocoa. The substrate actually balances itself at 7.0. You want to water with a PH of 6.5-6.8 +/- .2. Again the soil will balance itself. Amend monthly or as needed and water as needed. Easy Peasy.
This has been an awesome rabbit hole to go down. How soil biology works to break down elements and make them available for the plant. The plant can then use what it needs as it needs it. Except for excess nitrogen in the flower phase which is what ruined my firs grow.
My setup:
2x4 veg tent/Mars hydro SP 3000
4x4 flower tent/Mars Hydro TS3000/6" charcoal filter exhaust
I started growing in April. First I started with a 'no extra feeding necessary' super soil that I purchased online. It was okay. I ruined it because I added extra nutrients. I couldn't help myself. I wanted to make soil myself Since then I have been watching a LOT of Mr.Canucks Grow and have switched to the cocoa coir/worm castings/ slow release amendment style that he uses which is what you are asking about. My second round of flowering using this method is going WAY better. 4 weeks along and these guys are poppin ! I've also started learning how organic, natural soil actually works because with this method you are actually feeding the soil rather than the plant.
The mix I make is as follows:
75% cocoa/perlite premix and 25% worm castings.
I use Down to Erath Natural fertilizers. This company is based 3 hours from my house so I am proud to use them. They do not advertise as "cannabis" specific fertilizers but they are extremely close to Gaia Green amendments Mr. Canuck uses. They are the #1 100% organic, slow release amendment in the northwest. As far as I know.
I use: Bone meal, shrimp meal, bat guano, alfalfa meal, kelp meal, oyster shell, langbeinite, bio-live, neem seed meal, rose and flower mix 4/8/4, vegetable garden 4/4/4, Rock Phosphate, Bio Char and Mykos.
Obviously I don't use these amendments all at the same time. Some are for mixing a new soil. Some are for amending on the monthly schedule or as needed. Mr. Canuck uses a basic method which works awesome and is simple.
You CANNOT use liquid nutrients if you use an organic soil method. You cannot use anything with a chelating agent. This will kill the beneficial bacteria in the soil which will hurt the plants ability to uptake the nutrients it needs. For PHing the water I use citric acid crystals. (my tap water is about 7.0 +/- .5) Do not use liquid PH balancers such as phosphoric acid. It is a beneficial microbe killer. If you live in a large city than your tap water likely has a large amount of chlorine in it. You have to aerate your water for 24 hours to get this out or it will kill soil microbes as well.
Some people are confused telling you to PH lower than 6.2. This is a natural method using worm casting to get the live bacteria and microbes into the cocoa. The substrate actually balances itself at 7.0. You want to water with a PH of 6.5-6.8 +/- .2. Again the soil will balance itself. Amend monthly or as needed and water as needed. Easy Peasy.
This has been an awesome rabbit hole to go down. How soil biology works to break down elements and make them available for the plant. The plant can then use what it needs as it needs it. Except for excess nitrogen in the flower phase which is what ruined my firs grow.
My setup:
2x4 veg tent/Mars hydro SP 3000
4x4 flower tent/Mars Hydro TS3000/6" charcoal filter exhaust
