3 auto plants

[Listersmeghead]

Thankx Listersmeghead, mighty quick answer, I must have caught you in front of your pc, lucky me.

I, like you, prefer to feed the ladies and not leave it up to ingrediencies in the soil. My feeding habits is by a ppm count pending the plants age progress, and not so much as the manufacturer recommends. I also like simple, that's why I feed with Magacrop.
My first crop of auto's (which consisted of 3 plants) were grown in 1 gal fabric pots, freebee seeds and experimenting with them, turned out pretty good to smoke but were very tiny.
The 3 plants I'm now growing are close to harvest and about 2' tall, growing in 3 gal pots. I topped them at their 3rd node and so far all is OK, not great but for my 2nd attempt, I'm OK with it. I've read that some farmers are topping at 2nd node, I'll try that on a few of my next crop which are currently germinating will be put in to 5 gal fab pots.

Thanks for the advice about plant magic which I'll be looking for when at Lowe's next week.

I'm dumping all of my old soil which is 3 and 4 yrs old and has grown some decent photos. It's odd because I was thinking of switching over to peat anyway before reading your post.

Take care and thankx again.

How do you start your autos?
It's really hard to start autos outside unless you have ideal conditions.

Imo the first 2 weeks of an autos life are essential for them to reach their potential..if the nights are slightly cold or too wet it'll affect their early growth and then they struggle to catch back up.
After 2 weeks they have enough roots and foliage to handle roughing it a bit.
I'd want to start them indoors or at least a greenhouse in those 2 weeks to keep more stability, unless outside is warm, dry and stable.

My feeding habits is by a ppm count pending the plants age progress,

Yep, I feel comfortable doing it this way also. I use a bluelab truncheon and that shows you both ppm and ec conversion.

I've read that some farmers are topping at 2nd node,

That sounds brave...lol.
It doesn't surprise me though. I've seen growers now treating autos just like photos. When I top I always do it around the fifth node. I'll be interested in seeing how that turns out.

 

[garybo]

How do you start your autos?
It's really hard to start autos outside unless you have ideal conditions.

Glad you asked; as I type I have 8 seeds which represent 1 Wedding Cheescake, 3 Pink Kush, 1 Northern Lights and 3 Zkittlez.

As a dry seed, I wrap them in half a sheet of a towel paper, folded enough to fit into a 2" square plastic container that dog food came in, being plastic I can identify the seed on container's bottom with a black marker. I pour enough ground (chlorine free) water into the container to cover the tower by a quarter inch or so. This sits in a dark area of the house all day. That evening I drain all excess water from the container and put the wet towel with the seed back into the container. The next day I keep an eye on the towel making sure it stays damp. That evening I take a peek at the seed. Sometimes there is a tiny root (tap root) already started to emerge from the seed, if not then, it usually will be started the next day.

When the tap root is around a quarter to half inch long, I pick it up with tweezers and put it root down into a very wet jiffy cube, which I've already made a pencil size hole about an inch deep. The cube is placed in a 4" biodegradable pot with potting soil, then it goes outside (I live in Florida) in a clear plastic box with a lid and placed in a simi shaded area on the porch, south elevation. The plastic container is to protect the seed/seedling from being eaten by flying critters over the next few days.

From this part on, I'm still learning how to grow an auto plant which will give me and ma a half pound of sweet smoke.

My plan to wait a week of so until the first set of true leaves have grown, then take the 4" bio pot out of the plastic container, cut the sides of the bio pot with scissors and put the pot into a 5 gal fabric pot which will be home for the couple of months. For the first couple of weeks, I will put a clear glass quart jar over the seedling in the evenings, not so much for warmth, but for those nighttime bugs that love fresh growth. When plant outgrows the quart jar, it is strong enough to be on its own.

The amount of ppm's that a growing auto needs is something I'm not sure of. The one's I have growing right now I feed using the same strength as my photo's. They seem to be doing OK.

What do you think? I would be proud to hear any suggestions or improvements to "My plan".

Thanks

 

[Delps8]

Good morning Bill.

which one?
The strawberry or the dark devil?
The strawberry banana is getting about 580ppfd and is just over 4 weeks old..it's getting a little more than I normally give at this stage.

It is growing funny though, like a vine..feels like I'm growing a bush of long stem leaves.

Try increasing light levels - long stems and large interstitial spaces are a characteristic of plants that aren't receiving enough light. In contrast, plants that are getting high levels of light are characteristically more compact, have smaller interstitial spacing, and have more leaves.

Cannabis has a light saturation point of ≈ 900µmols and all research indicates that photosynthesis increases as DLI increases up to that point, even in a non-CO2 environment. There's no question that the law of diminishing returns kicks in but it's still a significant, continuous increase.

 

[Delps8]

Imo the first 2 weeks of an autos life are essential for them to reach their potential..if the nights are slightly cold or too wet it'll affect their early growth and then they struggle to catch back up.

Hear, hear.

That's one issue that caused me to not push my light lights in my last grow. One of the two plants had issues right from the start. I named her Wilma after Wilma Rudolph. Check out her bio on Wikipedia.

Wilma didn't tolerate PPFD's higher than 700µmols for most of the grow and her tent-mate, Chris, dominated the tent. I guesstimated that Chris took up 80% of the tent and, sure 'nuff, Chris yielded four times as much as Wilma.

"then they struggle to catch back up." - No doubt. They're on their own timetable so you can't decide how long to veg them so that they can recover. :-(

 

[Listersmeghead]

Nice list of seeds.

I feed using the same strength as my photo's.

That's what I do also. There's a bit of a myth that autos like less food..I don't buy into that, they're like every other plant some like more some like less..the plant will tell you.

I know Florida has the heat because I hear the rest of America heads down there in winter..do the nights still stay warm?
That would be one of my concerns. colder soil will slow a auto.
With a photo period seedling you can catch up if they slow slightly, so I wouldn't worry if the soil got as low as 16°c with them, but with an auto I wouldn't want the soil to get below 20°c.
Sometimes the soil can be 2 or 3° colder than ambient air. I usually care more about the soil temp for the roots than the above ground ambient temp.
This is me chasing ideals inside though for that perfect start in the first 2 weeks.
I take it your plastic box has good air inlets? that would be the only other concern. I'd rather have it open to the sun during the day if warm enough (insects allowing), then closed (with air holes) at night.

I'll definitely tag along if you're doing a diary.

 

[Delps8]

Glad you asked; as I type I have 8 seeds which represent 1 Wedding Cheescake, 3 Pink Kush, 1 Northern Lights and 3 Zkittlez.

As a dry seed, I wrap them in half a sheet of a towel paper, folded enough to fit into a 2" square plastic container that dog food came in, being plastic I can identify the seed on container's bottom with a black marker. I pour enough ground (chlorine free) water into the container to cover the tower by a quarter inch or so. This sits in a dark area of the house all day. That evening I drain all excess water from the container and put the wet towel with the seed back into the container. The next day I keep an eye on the towel making sure it stays damp. That evening I take a peek at the seed. Sometimes there is a tiny root (tap root) already started to emerge from the seed, if not then, it usually will be started the next day.

When the tap root is around a quarter to half inch long, I pick it up with tweezers and put it root down into a very wet jiffy cube, which I've already made a pencil size hole about an inch deep. The cube is placed in a 4" biodegradable pot with potting soil, then it goes outside (I live in Florida) in a clear plastic box with a lid and placed in a simi shaded area on the porch, south elevation. The plastic container is to protect the seed/seedling from being eaten by flying critters over the next few days.

From this part on, I'm still learning how to grow an auto plant which will give me and ma a half pound of sweet smoke.

My plan to wait a week of so until the first set of true leaves have grown, then take the 4" bio pot out of the plastic container, cut the sides of the bio pot with scissors and put the pot into a 5 gal fabric pot which will be home for the couple of months. For the first couple of weeks, I will put a clear glass quart jar over the seedling in the evenings, not so much for warmth, but for those nighttime bugs that love fresh growth. When plant outgrows the quart jar, it is strong enough to be on its own.

The amount of ppm's that a growing auto needs is something I'm not sure of. The one's I have growing right now I feed using the same strength as my photo's. They seem to be doing OK.

What do you think? I would be proud to hear any suggestions or improvements to "My plan".

Thanks

Lots of ways to get to germination and, if that's working for you, "press on".

After destroying two sets of seeds early last year, I read about germination from journals and other postings here, on other cannabis forums, and on commercial sites. The only downside that I can think of for using a paper towel is the possibility of roots getting caught in the paper towel.

One item that I picked up after I did my "survey" is that the reason why a dark room is recommended is to protect the root from light, not that the seed needs to be kept in the dark. I use Rapid Rooters. After I put my seeds in the RR, I cut a small piece of the RR and put it in the hole above the seed. Once the RR's have seeds in them, they go under the dome where it's at least 80° and 80% RH.

Seeds/seedlings don't need ferts (I'm trying to stop using the word "nutes"…). The role of the seed is to provide nutrients until the first true leaves sprout, at which point the plants being photosynthesis. Despite knowing that, I have added a tiny amount of leftover RapidStart to the RR (about 5 CC's twice a day).

"I live in Florida" - speaking of 80° and 80%!

I went through my notes and stripped out references to sites and sources other than here at 420. Some of these practices are contradictory, some duplicates but, if you slog through it all, what stands out is that people are using different but techniques to create the same essential conditions for the seed/seedling to thrive.

"From emails to and from Nathan in 6/2017 (tech support for the company from which I bought my grow tent kit)

Thu, Jun 22, 2017, 12:53 PM
"If you have 3 out of the 4 sprouted, lets wait one more day before giving them light, to see if the 4th would like to come and join the party.

next we need to develop the root. You can do this in the germination tray, to conserve some nutrients, versus putting it the XL12 hydro unit. (keep the humidity dome on to help the roots develop a bit faster)

First apply the light to the grow, Keep the light on at a minimum of 20 hours on 4 hours off, I usually keep my lights running 24-7 through this root development stage

Check the rockwool cubes moisture levels daily, be sure to feed with nutrient rich water (transplant stage).

You will need to manually water your cubes till we have a root showing out the bottom (I thrive for roots to be at least an inch long, 1/2" is okay,as well) before putting them in the SuperPonic XL 12 and starting the vegetation stage."


Gist of the comments re. transplanting is that there's no reason not to move the plants to the pool once they have tap root extending.



"Once they sprout they should have light on them."


Apoc
420
20200720
"Yes Rapid Rooters are fine as long as they don't mold. When you get them stick a baggie or glove on your hand and split them up in quart baggies then burp the air out the bag.

If you use the water method check after 12 and 24 hours but don't let them go past 24 hours. Old seed I soak for 12 then drop in a rooter.

You can put an ounce of water in the bottom of the tray to make the seeds reach for water.

As soon as you see the tap root sticking out transplant to whatever dirt/media you use.

When transplanted just give them like 6 ounces of water in the morning and check before bed to see it they need a small drink. (For tents anyway) increase water slowly at about 2 weeks be thinking a quart a day. Shoot it by eye from there."




2013/01/07
Xlr8 on 420
"My seed germination technique"

"Pre-soak seeds in glass for a few hours
Pre-soak rooter plug 12-24 hours (probably doesn't need to be that long)
Use RO water from store - do not PH balance it
Shake/squeeze out excess moisture in the rooter
Use a tweezers or pen to loosen up the hole, and make it slightly deeper.
Position seed in the rooter plug, pointy end up
Cover the hole on the rapid rooter plug by tearing a small piece of the plug, and loosely covering the hole.
Place rapid rooter, with seed in it, inside humidity dome, under flourescent lights (I use T5's).
Rooter plugs should be moistened with plain RO water periodically, but only moistened
Heat mat is not needed - and it can dry the rooter plug too fast. Humidity only needs to be around 50%. I just mist the humidity dome periodically.
No nutrients are needed with seedlings until the 3rd set of true leaves.
I transplant when roots are showing through the bottom and sides of rooter plugs"



"As the seed is below ground for the first 3 or 4 days light is not required once it sprouts you want to put under the light for 18hrs a day."




Good1987 on 420
"I just germinated this new grow in rapid rooters. Only real difference is im running top fed dwc so i just set up my pumps and feeder lines, dampened the rooter, placed the seed in lightly, plugged the hole with a ripped off piece of the rooter, covered with a paper plate, and turned on my pumps. My led has been on the entire time but as high as i could get it to keep my tent around 75-80 degrees. I did this monday and today i have 2 beautiful sprouts. No pre soaking at all."


I"m thinking of a DLI of around 6 at first. It will be interesting to see the values per the Apogee. Another issue is to be giving a lot more water and the water should have nutes.


Ref:


Man o Green on another site
"Auto Flowering Cannabis needs about 50% of the nutrient strength compared to Photoperiod plants. In my personal experience that is from 150 PPM for seedlings to 550 PPM in late flower."




Ronin on another site
put the seed in an RR plug, soak the plug, put it in a tupper for 12 hours then squeeze out some water etc.""
I'm not going to use tuppers but it's interesting that he soaks the RR.


"In my experience the longer a sprout stays in the humidity it will tend to get lanky."
That might have been something that I did. Too much RH?



Another poster on another web site
Bean in the RR, soak the RR, put it into a tupper for 24 hours, squeeze out half the water, and back in the tupper. No mention of covering the hole where he put in the seed.
Lots and lots of humidity. Using this technique in the germinator…
Soak the RR and put them in cups. Leave them in the cups, soaking wet, for 24 hours then squeeze them out.
When it pops, move the tupper to the CFL light.
The tuppers are in a room on top of a router (for heat). Why the need to put the germ in darkness?


Another site
Germinates the seed first, then puts it in the RR



Yet another site
Put the RR's in a tray with 1/4" water


Yet another site
"I've had 100% results with Rapid Rooters. But, they're made for cloning. The hole seems to be too large (wide/deep) for a seed. I flip it upside-down, poke my own seed-sized hole, and bury it flush in an 18-22oz seedling cup of soil. (I.e., I don't use a progragation tray). I put my cups in a tray, set it on a thermostatic heat mat set to 78-82."
"I just flip them upside down and with a small screwdriver (for eyeglasses, very small) I jab a hole and tear it out a little the seed. I only plant it so it's covered 3/16 to 1/4". The clone hole the RR comes with is an inch, I think."


"I would definitely turn the Rapid Rooter upside-down, poke your own hole about 1/4" deep. Just wide enough for the seed to slide into. The stem hole it comes with is too deep and wide. The material needs to make contact with the shell, and the sprout shouldn't have to reach that high just to break ground."


A well known video channel
Germinating cannabis seeds 100% success rate
Treez Please

Put the seeds in dry. Make sure that the crater is facing up - that's the part of the seed. The crown shoud be facing down.

70-90 RH
70-80 F

Put the RR upside down
Poke a hole in the bottom

Put the RR upside down in the germ, put on the dome, and turn on the light.

He says nothing about water, nothing about watering.


SubCool on another site
"All a seed needs to germinate is moisture and a temperature range between 50-90 and your good to go. There are other factors involved though and if you will germinate your seeds between 70-80 degrees you will have a better ratio of females. Warmer temperatures tend to produce more male plants.
Many growers still use the tried and true method of soaking seeds in a paper towel. With the invention of “Rapid Rooters”, a product made up from composted organic materials bonded together with plant-derived polymers. These plugs are manufactured using a scientifically controlled process that yields large populations of beneficial microbes in the media. We started using them to clone in about 3 years ago and when I tried starting seeds in them I knew I would never do it any other way."
"I flip the cone shaped rooting plugs upside down so the have more stability. They are made to fit into sectional treys but that just added cost and you will see I try and keep things simple and low frills. Wash hands well with a disinfecting soap, this will remove any oils or contaminants. Make a small hole with a poker and place the seed point side up into the plug about ½” into the rooter."
"Place the plugs into a domed container and place under florescent lights. I like to use plastic/tuperware shoe boxes stacked on top of each other. There low cost and easy to find at any department store. Not everyone has access to a fancy grow shop at all times. Don’t let the cubes dry out is really the only thing to worry about. Its best not to drowned them but as long as they don’t dry completely out I have always had great success using this method."
"I have used soil in cups and rockwool cubes but Rapid Rooters are really the best choice and they seem to hold just the right amount of moisture without suffocating the plant. As long as you don’t let Rapid Rooters dry out you will have great success."


Manowar on another site
1/28/19
"Put the fresh or properly stored seed ½” deep in a Rapid Rooter, Root Riot, rock wool cube or similar. Keep moist – not wet, and ~78°F, 60% humidity with your lights running on 18/6 and they will germinate if viable. Most strains will germinate in 5 to 7 days."



Smokin Moose on another site
"Start with standard rockwool seedling cubes. Soak them in pH adjusted RO Water, and then get your seeds ready. You can germinate them in paper towels, gauze, cheesecloth, or just do like me, and not fool with all that-- just poke the seed in the rockwool cube where the hole is pre-made. If you find that's too big for your seeds, turn the cube over and poke a smaller hole.

When you think your cubes have soaked up enough water, take them outside, or to the bathtub, and holding it loosely, give them 2 or 3 hardy shakes. (DO NOT SQUEEZE OUT!) This will release LOTS of water from the cube, thus making air pockets within the cube itself. These air pockets are very important for seedlings and clones. Also, by doing that, you keep your seed from soaking to death...too much moisture will kill the seedlings.

When you get the most of the water out, pick the seeds you want to grow and drop them in the hole about 1/4"-1/2" down. Carefuly squeeze the hole closed and place in a humidity dome. Light isn't all that important until the seed sprouts, however its very important to keep the temps around 80*f in your grow area. Warmth will speed up the process considerably as will a few drops of Superthrive per gallon of water.

Within 4 to 7 days (up to 14..) you should see seedlings poking out of the cube-- this is where I really watch whats happening as the TAP ROOT will grow faster than the plant itself. When this occurs, I get them ready to move to a 2 gallon rooter DWC bucket with 3" net pot holes. I will take the seedling, and place it in a 3" netpot with a few rocks on the bottom, as to support the cube, and leave plenty of space for the roots to grow without letting them lay on the bottom of the humidity dome's tray. I try to suspend the roots as long as they are in the dome. When I feel they are old enough (when there are a FEW small roots poking out of the RW cube) I will place the 3" pots with the seedlings in them, in the rooter bucket for about a week sometimes two if I am using fluorescents for vegging.

In that time, I will have a 5 gallon bucket ready, and I will carefuly try to weave as many of the roots thru the holes of a 6" net pot, and like with the 3"er, I will place a small amout of rock on the bottom of the pot to suspend the roots, and allow ample space for more roots. I place the 3" pot into the 6" pot and then fill up with rocks, finally covering the 3" pot (kind of like a BOG double pot method for soil) and placing that into the lid of the 5 gallon bucket.
"

 

[Listersmeghead]

Hiya delps
Good to see you.
August is nearly finished, have you got plans for a next run?

long stems and large interstitial spaces are a characteristic of plants that aren't receiving enough light. I

That particular plant is a Dark Devil auto. One of its genetic characteristics is large node spacing anyways, even if you bask it in light. But yeah, I have been running it a bit underlit as it's sharing a space with the strawberry. Although there's two separate lights if I increase the light above the dark devil the cross over in the middle is too strong for the strawberry bannana.
I'm going to be increasing both this week.

Cheers for coming by a dropping the info.

 

[garybo]

I know Florida has the heat because I hear the rest of America heads down there in winter..do the nights still stay warm?

That would be one of my concerns. colder soil will slow a auto.

In north Fl the only month it gets cold is Jan, usually lows are mid to low 30's and by mid day its pushing 70'ish.
By mid to late Feb, spring comes in like a bang and summer starts like a month later.
I'm hoping the weather will permit growing going into late Nov or early Dec.

I'm told that, that info provided above along with a couple of dollars will get a cup of coffee at McDonalds.

Until later my friend.

 

[Delps8]

Hiya delps
Good to see you.
August is nearly finished, have you got plans for a next run?


That particular plant is a Dark Devil auto. One of its genetic characteristics is large node spacing anyways, even if you bask it in light. But yeah, I have been running it a bit underlit as it's sharing a space with the strawberry. Although there's two separate lights if I increase the light above the dark devil the cross over in the middle is too strong for the strawberry bannana.
I'm going to be increasing both this week.

Cheers for coming by a dropping the info.

"One of its genetic characteristics is large node spacing anyways, even if you bask it in light."
Interesting - looks like she'll be a really tall plant.

 

[Listersmeghead]

"One of its genetic characteristics is large node spacing anyways, even if you bask it in light."
Interesting - looks like she'll be a really tall plant.

Oh the dark devil is indeed an interesting plant. Very old school auto genetics, I've been growing them for eight or so years and I know other members here have been growing them longer. So definitely over a decade old genetics.

 

[Delps8]

Oh the dark devil is indeed an interesting plant. Very old school auto genetics, I've been growing them for eight or so years and I know other members here have been growing them longer. So definitely over a decade old genetics.

Thanks for that. You've piqued my interest - I'll definitely check it out.

 

[Listersmeghead]

Thanks for that. You've piqued my interest - I'll definitely check it out.

She goes crazy in hydro.
There's a community grow thread on here somewhere for the dark devil started by a member called sweet sue. Iirc and its on that thread, one Scottish gentleman got nearly 1 kilo from a dda in hydro under a 600w hps light.
Don't know how much of that was solid bud but it looked like a lot of it.
That much is rare though, I've seen some people get 6 grams from them in soil.

 

[Listersmeghead]

Day 42
A little gap in updates as my mother in law has been in hospital up in Manchester. I've been travelling between home and up north.
I've had to save the plants from Wilt a couple of times but they bounced back good.

So here they are day 42.

Forbidden runtz auto Day 42
She has filled out the tent superbly. Still stretching but I expect that to finish this week as she goes into full flower.
Fr auto was fed and watered yesterday (day 41)

Buddha tree silica: 0.25ml per ltr
Level tsp of myco disolved ( last time )
Topped up with hard water flower nutrients to 1.4ec.
Starting tap water 0.5ec.

Light: 45k lux, ~765ppfd

_______________

Strawberry banana auto
Dark Devil auto Day 42

Sb auto starting to stretch finally, getting bigger. I'm going to have to stop thinking i can fit 2 plants in these small tents as they're starting to crowd each other. I can fit 2 dark devil plants as they don't get too big, but these modern autos get big and the strawberry banana is a bit cramped to the side so I can't open her up properly.

Dark Devil is plodding along building buds, doing exactly what I'd expect. She's starting to smell gorgeous now.
Wish I had a better camera to show her beautiful colours.

Light:
Strawberry banana 45k lux, ~765ppfd.
Dark Devil 48k lux, ~816ppfd.

 

[Stunger]

All things considered, they're looking good Listers. I can't wait to see the Dark Devil's progress as they're so visually pretty at the smoking end of the plant. All the best for your Mother in Law, I hope she's soon on the mend.

 

[CaptainLucky]

Day 42
A little gap in updates as my mother in law has been in hospital up in Manchester. I've been travelling between home and up north.
I've had to save the plants from Wilt a couple of times but they bounced back good.

So here they are day 42.

Forbidden runtz auto Day 42
She has filled out the tent superbly. Still stretching but I expect that to finish this week as she goes into full flower.
Fr auto was fed and watered yesterday (day 41)

Buddha tree silica: 0.25ml per ltr
Level tsp of myco disolved ( last time )
Topped up with hard water flower nutrients to 1.4ec.
Starting tap water 0.5ec.

Light: 45k lux, ~765ppfd

_______________

Strawberry banana auto
Dark Devil auto Day 42

Sb auto starting to stretch finally, getting bigger. I'm going to have to stop thinking i can fit 2 plants in these small tents as they're starting to crowd each other. I can fit 2 dark devil plants as they don't get too big, but these modern autos get big and the strawberry banana is a bit cramped to the side so I can't open her up properly.

Dark Devil is plodding along building buds, doing exactly what I'd expect. She's starting to smell gorgeous now.
Wish I had a better camera to show her beautiful colours.

Light:
Strawberry banana 45k lux, ~765ppfd.
Dark Devil 48k lux, ~816ppfd.

Looking happy + healthy

 

[CaptainLucky]

All things considered, they're looking good Listers. I can't wait to see the Dark Devil's progress as they're so visually pretty at the smoking end of the plant. All the best for your Mother in Law, I hope she's soon on the mend.

I hope you’re Mother’ in Law is feeling better .

 

[Listersmeghead]

All things considered, they're looking good Listers. I can't wait to see the Dark Devil's progress as they're so visually pretty at the smoking end of the plant. All the best for your Mother in Law, I hope she's soon on the mend.

Thanks stunger.
The dark devil is smelling exquisite already..I can smell it above everything else..it grabs my attention instantly.wish I had a better camera to show her beauty.

The MIL is on the mend now and back home thanks..she's in good shape for 75 all told.

 

[Listersmeghead]

Looking happy + healthy

Cheers captain.
Yeah they are looking really good considering they've been abandoned a bit this week.
I returned on 2 occasions to find first the forbidden runtz wilted, then the second time the strawberry banana wilted. I caught them in time so no real damage thankfully, they're hardy plants. It could've been a lot worse.
The dark devil has just got on with things perfectly.

 

[stinker]

Glad to hear your mother in law is home. Plants look good.

 

[Listersmeghead]

Glad to hear your mother in law is home. Plants look good.

Thanks stinker.
I've just been over to your journal.
I think Barney needs to put you on the payroll.